Newbie Looking for some answers

[LaneC]

  Welcome. I am sure you will come to love this site, as there are a lot of good folks who have great knowledge that give freely, and are glad to see you succeed in your sawing journey.

[Magicman]

And a FF Welcome to you too Smmudford.   8)

[Seavee]

Welcome to the forum.

[hbeane]

Ox,
     Thanks for all the information.  I have thought alot about a setup very similar to what you just mentioned.  YOu have some great ideas and yes the little M is alot stronger than she looks.  The process will be time consuming but the entire project will be time consuming.  I dont get in a hurry.  Usually working with just me and my Girlfriend.  And she is alot of help and loves the woods and working on projects with me but we always are looking for ways to make out projects easier on us. That and the fact I have to over think everything I do so that always slows us down but over thinking makes for a good job sometimes I think. Please dont misunderstand I spend alot of time day dreaming of the day I can have a big tractor setting out there to go jump on and "play" a little.  Some day.  You have give me alot to think about.  THanks again for you and everyone else willing to share there knowledge with me and everyone else.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Smmudford.

[hbeane]

Glad I am getting replies from other new people on this forum.  Maybe we can learn together and please if you have questions post them cause I am willing to read and learn as much as I can.  I want to let everyone know I am so appreciative for this site and all the information I have already learned from here and new Ideas I have found.  And I have so many questions I am not really sure even where to start.  As I stated before I have alot of tall straight poplars.  THis is what I want to use for my squared logs for my home.  Is there somewhere that will teach me the best parts of the log to cut for this.  Do I want to take it out of the middle of the log? Or does it not matter at all and this is just a silly question? Can my logs go up green or should they dry completely or just a little? Looks like I could put them up green and let dry then Chink. There is alot of information out there that suggests both ways.  Green is OK and Green is not OK???  Going to be Dovetail  by the way. I love the look of the little cabin in the thread that Magicman posted.  Its a great little cabin.  Looking to do a little bigger though.  I am thinking 24 x32 with sleeping loft, maybe a lean too style addition for a "utility/mud room.  That is open for change but not after spring.  Starting foundation in spring.  And that reminds me a foundation question.  I want to build this house on posts.  I am thinking 6x6 or maybe 8x8 posts.  Spacing roughly every 5 - 6 feet.  Maybe over kill maybe not??? I want it strong.  Is the post idea a bad idea? was thinking of getting a 12 x 12 concrete pad( purchase or pour my self??) to put in the bottom of all my holes for a big strong footing for the posts...I am going to quit for now, I could keep going on and on with questions and details of what I want to do.  All I think about is either buying my new mill and pumping out some lumber or using that lumber to build my home.  I CAN'T WAIT FOR SPRING! Thanks again for everyones help and advice.  I hope someday I know what I am doing in sawing or log buildig and I can help someone new like I am. 

[Ox]

Your post and concrete in the bottom of the hole sounds good to me.  Nothing wrong with over-building anything, in my opinion.  Except maybe for aircraft (weight issues!).  If you want square posts, which is basically what your wall logs will be, you need to center the pith (center of the log) when you square up the log.  Centering the pith will keep the post or square log from moving much, if at all, as it cures.  If it were me, I'd mill all your logs first thing, set them off the ground and not touching each other to cure awhile as you do your foundation.  Keep them dry.  This will give you the "quick set cure" good enough to build with when it's time.  I would say to peel the bark to aid in drying, but you're using square logs so this is a moot point.  Just don't forget to cut good sized relief pockets (top and bottom) for your doors and windows for the inevitable settling and shrinking of the logs.  Eventually the building will find its happy medium and all your trimming (if needed) will mostly cease.  Don't forget to cut slots in the ends of the logs for the windowsto move up and down in as the logs settle.  Pretty simple and rugged construction, I was just never able to build my own for several reasons out of my control. 

This is indeed the best place on the internet for people like us'ns.  I've learned a lot here as well!  Best group of minds and people anywhere.

[gshd1]

Im new to the forum myself.  I bought a used lt15 woodmizer about three months ago. Its a 2012 model with a fuel sipping yanmar diesel motor. Im sure theres other good makes and models out there. Just to add my two cents and say that I'm super happy with my mill. The person that i bought it from sold it to me because he ordered a new lt40 . Im glad i found this forum. I have gained a lot of knowledge and enjoy reading the posts.

[thecfarm]

gshd1,glad you are posting now. Should be a WM show coming in April in Chesterville,ME. Hope to see you there.
What are you using the lumber for?

[Magicman]

Congrats on the sawmill and Welcome to the Forestry Forum, gshd1.   8)

[hbeane]

Ox,
      Thanks for the information. Yea it does make the most since to get my lumber cut then work on my foundation.  I am not really sure what you mean when you tell me to cut slots in the ends of the logs for the windows.  Should I cut slots on the very end of the log? and if so what is the reason for this just so I understand.  Also would it be ok to cut my posts let them dry awhile before I cut the dovetails or should I do it immediately.  What size of A post is recomended for the walls?  8"? smaller? Bigger?  I want a comparison to the R factor that would be used in a framed up wall I would insulate.  Thanks again for all the help.  I really do love this site.  I spend hours reading and reading...

[hbeane]

Im new to the forum myself.  I bought a used lt15 woodmizer about three months ago. Its a 2012 model with a fuel sipping yanmar diesel motor. Im sure theres other good makes and models out there. Just to add my two cents and say that I'm super happy with my mill. The person that i bought it from sold it to me because he ordered a new lt40 . Im glad i found this forum. I have gained a lot of knowledge and enjoy reading the posts.

Gshd1 I envy your purchase.  I been holding off buying my lt15 hoping I would come across a great deal on a used one. There is a lt40 not far from me for sale. Guy wants $20,000 for a 92 model. Just can't swing that and seems a little steep but maybe I'm wrong. I am not shopping for one so I have not priced those very much.. Congrats on your mill.  Happy sawing.

[gshd1]

thefarm, right now im milling up some lumber for my son. We will be building a tractor shed in the spring. Yea ill try to make it up there thanks.

[Ox]

Yes, the slots are cut in the ends of the logs for the window to sit in.  They would be vertical slots.  This allows the logs to settle and move around without breaking all your windows.  You need slots in the sides and in the top log over the window.  You need to invest a little money into a good log home construction book - it would answer all your questions and gives you pictures and some good ideas.  The two I have are "The Owner-Built Log House", by B. Allan Mackie and "Complete Guide to Building Log Homes" by Monte Burch.  Between these two you'll be all set.  Maybe your local library has a book share program with other libraries and you don't have to buy these books.

I would wait to cut the dovetails until you're ready to put up the walls.  If you cut them green, you'll likely have to go back and hit all of them again due to different drying and shrinking in each log.

If I remember right, I think a 12" red pine log wall had an R factor of around 20.  Better than I was imagining at the time.  I imagine a quick internet search would get you some verification. 

P.S.  I highly recommend those two books.  They will answer all your questions and give you many options to build your log home.  There's things in there I would have never come up with on my own and the best thing is it's all simple!

[gshd1]

hbeane . . . I have found that buying a used mill is like shopping for a john Deere, They bring close to retail. I buy at auction a lot. But it can run hot and cold. I made a couple attempts to purchase a lt15 before finding this one. Awhile ago i attended an estate auction in PA, There was a lt15 at the sale. The guy had bought it new and just stuck it under the trees and it sat there with on a pallet with the steel banding still on it. It had been there untouched for 15 year,s. When the auctioneer came to that lot most all hands where in the air. Opening bid was $2000. Finale bid was $7000. even money. Not a phony bid. I had talked to the buyer after the sale because i had some of the hardware to his mill that was mistakingly included in one of the lots that i bought. It was a huge sale everything front end loaders to metal and woodworking stuff etc. etc. Everything else in that sale brought pretty much 10 cents on a dollar. Im getting a little long winded here . . . ha. . Another story i bought a 2002 Chevy half ton 4x4 online 5 years ago for $1800. Flew from Boston to Richmond and drove the truck to Canan VA. Bought a Kuhn 5 disc mower at auction. Mower was in like new condition and saved myself $2000. Threw it in the back and headed for home. Last week i bought ticket to Miami/Dade. There was two auctions one in Miami and one in Jacksonville. So i figured i couldn't miss. There was a ton of trucks offered. But anyway i wasted $64 on a ticket. For example at the Jac. auction  2003 stripy white 1500 reg. cab lb 134k miles 4.8 with 4x2 with its share of dents etc. whent for $4750.

[Keith Shirley]

hbean,    I haven't been a member long myself. I live just down the river from you, Near Mt. Alto, between Ripley and Point Pleasant. I have a good friend, Bill Worstell, that lives in St Mary's, you may know of him.  I recently bought a Norwood HD36, and am in the process of building a building over it. You can check my gallery for photos. I need to update them, as I now have the main building framed. I would be happy to show you my mill and let you operate it. It is within you budget, although mine is strictly manual it can be easily updated with hydraulics when affordable. If you would like, just send me a email and I'll give you more info. My email is in my profile.

[hbeane]

Yes, the slots are cut in the ends of the logs for the window to sit in.  They would be vertical slots.  This allows the logs to settle and move around without breaking all your windows.  You need slots in the sides and in the top log over the window.  You need to invest a little money into a good log home construction book - it would answer all your questions and gives you pictures and some good ideas.  The two I have are "The Owner-Built Log House", by B. Allan Mackie and "Complete Guide to Building Log Homes" by Monte Burch.  Between these two you'll be all set.  Maybe your local library has a book share program with other libraries and you don't have to buy these books.

I would wait to cut the dovetails until you're ready to put up the walls.  If you cut them green, you'll likely have to go back and hit all of them again due to different drying and shrinking in each log.

If I remember right, I think a 12" red pine log wall had an R factor of around 20.  Better than I was imagining at the time.  I imagine a quick internet search would get you some verification. 

P.S.  I highly recommend those two books.  They will answer all your questions and give you many options to build your log home.  There's things in there I would have never come up with on my own and the best thing is it's all simple!

.  I will defiantly get your books you recommend. I have 2 and they are ok but not exactly what I was looking for. One is the classic hewn log house by Charles mcraven and it is a nice book and lots of info but it spends a lot of time on the history of the houses and doing all by hand no equipment at all.  It is a great book but just not what I was looking for. The second is "build your own low cost log home by roger hard.  It is a good book to it seems only got it about 3 days ago. So far I like it. And don't misunderstand I think the other book is great. Lots of info and great source of pictures.  Has a really nice gallery section.  Going outside to throw some more brush in for lunch. Seems like a lot left to do as far is getting my site ready for spring.   About 45 degrees here and sunny and loving it..

[hbeane]

hbean,    I haven't been a member long myself. I live just down the river from you, Near Mt. Alto, between Ripley and Point Pleasant. I have a good friend, Bill Worstell, that lives in St Mary's, you may know of him.  I recently bought a Norwood HD36, and am in the process of building a building over it. You can check my gallery for photos. I need to update them, as I now have the main building framed. I would be happy to show you my mill and let you operate it. It is within you budget, although mine is strictly manual it can be easily updated with hydraulics when affordable. If you would like, just send me a email and I'll give you more info. My email is in my profile.

Yes your not far from me at all  i would love to come see your setup  I know bill well  i am not sure if u know where his hunt camp is on mt  carmel ridge but if u do my place is just righton down further from his hunting camp  the old red school house he converted to a hunt camp.  Went to school with his son  small world.  I have looked at that mil and would love to see your setup and learn about another mill.  I have been up your way at point pleasant fishing.  Those old tnt fields  all those little pounds back in there.  There must be dozens and it is a ball nice small mouth back in there.  Also as i am sure you know it is known as the mothmans home    i will email and maybe we can get together