Building my mill...

[thecfarm]

My Thomas must run like yours. I turn WM blades inside out to run them on my mill.  ;D

[Kbeitz]

Not to much done today... To much to do....
I went and looked at another band mill today...
Yep.... Made mine backwards....
So I guess 90% of the mills run the other way ?

[Kbeitz]

Could someone with a wood mizer mill show me a picture of the cam on top of the bar in the first picture.
It fits in the hole of the second picture...

Thanks.




 



 

[Kbeitz]

Today I was working on the dogs... The cam arms are not done yet.
They will adjust with the rack bar... I made 3 set and welded them in today...



 



 

[Kbeitz]

This is a picture of the log dog I was lookin for..
I gotta make 3 of these...



 

[gww]

I love it when pictures are posted.  Worth a thousand words.
Thanks
gww

[iffy]

Linn mills run the same direction as yours. When I built my Linn I thought about reversing the plans so it ran the same way as a woodmizer, then I thought "why?".

[Kbeitz]

Today I made heaver carriage cable rollers and I painted the wood
and I went yard selling... I found two jacks at the yard sale for $10.00 so I welded
them on the back of the mill. It was a good day....



 



 



 



 

[Delawhere Jack]

Kbeitz, nice build. Having your own Bridgeport mill makes it a piece of cake!  ;D

Cutting direction can go either way, but the driven wheel needs to pull the band through the cut. Otherwise you'll get oscillation in the cut. Kind of like pushing a rope. The WM's cut towards the operators side of the mill, pulling the log into the log stops. Sadly, this means the sawdust is coming right at you.

With a 13HP motor, there should be no problem cutting towards the log dog side of the mill. That's how my old Turner mill worked. It was never an issue.

One observation. You're using threaded rod for tensioning the band. In time the thread will strip. Not a big deal, you can always replace it. Might keep your eyes open for some acme threaded stock for a more durable tensioner. When cutting wide hardwoods you'll want 2,700 lbs or more tension on the band.

[Kbeitz]

Kbeitz, nice build. Having your own Bridgeport mill makes it a piece of cake!  ;D

Cutting direction can go either way, but the driven wheel needs to pull the band through the cut. Otherwise you'll get oscillation in the cut. Kind of like pushing a rope. The WM's cut towards the operators side of the mill, pulling the log into the log stops. Sadly, this means the sawdust is coming right at you.

With a 13HP motor, there should be no problem cutting towards the log dog side of the mill. That's how my old Turner mill worked. It was never an issue.

One observation. You're using threaded rod for tensioning the band. In time the thread will strip. Not a big deal, you can always replace it. Might keep your eyes open for some acme threaded stock for a more durable tensioner. When cutting wide hardwoods you'll want 2,700 lbs or more tension on the band.

Thanks for the info... I got the drive wheel pulling..
My threaded rod also has a 1-1/2" wide nut.
I don't think I will ever strip it out using a wide nut like that.
If i have a problem with it i welded it on a collar that pulls on on of the
hold down bolts. So it would be real easy to change it out for something stronger.
You said something about using acme threaded stock, Acme treads does not tighten near as easy as a fine thread. It would take a whole lot more toque to get a course thread tight.
Yea.... Love my Bridgeport an my metal lathe... I would be lost without them.



 



 

[Kbeitz]

Well today the junkyard got in what I was lookin for...
The two motors I needed . One to lift the carrage and one to move it...




 

[Ox]

Cool!  I wish my area had better junkyards.

[Kbeitz]

The two motors are 24 volts. I'm using 12 volts. On the end cap of the motors is an electric brakes.
This brakes will not activate on only 12 volts so I removed them. I don't think I want the unit slamming
to a stop anyway... After removing the brakes the motors run fine on only 12 volts.
I tried stopping the end shaft on the motor with plyers... No way... Then the motor goes into
the alum gearbox and that takes it down to 40 to 1 ... There is no way that I could stop that shaft by hand.
I next need to count the RPM and see what sprockets I need to get to run the speed I need.
I'm also ready to go E-bay shopping for my controller.

[Kbeitz]

I got two of these ( DC 10-50V 60A Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller 12V 24V 48V 3000W ) coming from E-bay. Sure hope I bought the right thing...



 

[Kbeitz]

Guess I'm going with a 24 volt system. The is an easy one wire hookup .
24 Volt Universal Alternator 1-Wire 40 AMP



 

[Ox]

Is it because the 24 volt motors aren't doing well on 12 volts?

[Kbeitz]

Is it because the 24 volt motors aren't doing well on 12 volts?

My test showed the motors to work great on 12 volts.
But the mill is not built yet so I cant see why not to make it a 24 volt system since the the motors are 24 volts...

[bandmiller2]

Keep your eyes open for older military generators their were a lot that were 28v. DC, 24v. motors would be very happy with that. Frank C.

[Kbeitz]

Wow things have been busy... Happens every spring. Not much done on the mill the last few days.
I got my first log sitting on the mill to help me decide on how I want to make my dogs.
I need to weld a handle on the cams to see if this is the way I want to go...



 



 



 

[gww]

I built a chicken plucker using a 90volt dc motor.  If I had not used the dc motor I would have needed about a 10/1 motor speed reduction.  I ran it on twelve volts and it did ok.  I ran it on 24 volts and it was faster and did better.  I don't know if it had alot more power but it was turning faster and I believe using the more efficiantly.

So while 24 is the design of the motors, running them at that will change the speed if you have any testing already done at 12 volts.  I do know with your 40 to 1 gear ratio, if the motor didn't get too hot I would be tempted to run on the 12 volt just for the versatillity and due to battery maint. and extra weight.  If your intention is to use the mill every single day as a job, the 24 volts may make more sence.

You are going all out on your mill build and it should really be something good when you get it done. 
cheers
gww

[Ox]

I like the rugged and simple things you build.  It's the epitome of the KISS principle.
Sounds like gww has some experience with motors.  I wouldn't have thought to take into account the tests at 12 volts vs. running at 24 volts.  I'm sure the speeds will change some.  It would have pithed me off when I realized the mistake I would have made.  This is why I'm always doing the 1 step forward and 2 steps back dance with myself.   : :-\

[Kbeitz]

 

 

[gww]

Personally I like it.  Is the pipe that it slides up and down in, short enough to cause it to bind in place so it can't move up and down after you scew it to the log?
Thanks
gww

[Kbeitz]

Personally I like it.  Is the pipe that it slides up and down in, short enough to cause it to bind in place so it can't move up and down after you scew it to the log?
Thanks
gww

Short or long if there is pressure pushing back you would never be able to slide it inside each other.
The only thing I would change (and I probley will) is to change from round stock to square.
Now there is nothing to stop the rod from turning. Not sure if thats going to be a problem or not yet.
I might pull the shaft and mill a keyway in it...

[gww]

Thanks for answering my question, I didn't find mine binding very well till I cut them short enough.  If mine were yours, I could not make myself change them now that they look that good untill I tried them.  They may move side to side and the blade does try to move the log but those are nice and the blade pressure may be side to side of the log and not pushing the log forwards and backwards.  Nope, I would definatly have to try them cause they look pretty.
Cheers
gww