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Boring Machine Comparisons?

Started by Bruce_Gordon, January 06, 2020, 03:25:56 PM

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Bruce_Gordon

Have searched 'boring machines' here and elsewhere on line, and was wondering if there exists a comparison of the different machines that one is likely to encounter. Of particular interest might be: features and/or tendencies in performance, availability, bits, ease of maintenance and availability of parts. What brought this question on was my recent mortising efforts into KD Doug Fir with a WoodOwl 1-1/4" bit in my Milwaukee right angle drill. (To say nothing of the chiseling afterwards.) Having seen Jim Rogers' video of the Swan machine I can appreciate the potential for more-controlled, if not absolutely better results--this particular operator's skill notwithstanding.
Loud chainsaws inspire respect enough while cutting limbs to keep one's own.

Jim_Rogers

Bruce:
We have several different boring machines on hand here at my shop in Georgetown, MA. You're really not that far from me compared to others on this forum.
You could make an appointment and drive over and test each one out and I can show you the differences, and shoot a video for others while we do it.
If you wish.
Just let me know.
Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Brad_bb

Boring machines are pretty basic.  All machines will  bore 90 degrees, some you can change the angle, though I've not had need to change the angle.

Millers Falls is the most preferred machine
A Boss Double eagle is second
All the others are after that.

My first one was a Snell and it works just fine.  I also have millers Falls and Boss boring machines.
You can find bits on ebay, and you can find them via Jim Rogers.  With ebay it's hit and miss whether the bit is useable, and if it is use-able, you will have to tune it up.  With Jim you will get a good bit ready to go.

The biggest issue for wear on the machines is the bearing bores.  The handle shaft and the chuck shafts ride on the cast iron of the frame.  If this is worn excessively, it will alter how the gears mesh together and can lead to broken or worn teeth.  Many times with you find machines with broken gear teeth or badly worn/deformed gear teeth, it's because of this mis-alignment.  When the gear teeth are in correct alignment and meshing correctly, they teeth should not wear.  Some have Shimmed the bearing bores with brass shim stock, but the proper way to fix them would probably be to precision machine and sleeve the bores and make new shafts that are not worn.

Broken or missing handles are not unusual and it can be a challenge sometimes to turn a new handle and particularly to make the threads for the insert as they originally did (like the Boss machine).  there are work arounds (like epoxy).

Keep and eye out for missing parts, like the rack gear or parts that lift the bit back out of the bore. It's very annoying if you don't have this working or if the carriage doesn't latch when it gets back to the top.

On all machines, the carriage rides up and down on rails.  Sometimes the ears of the cast frame that rides on the rails get broken.  Cast iron can be repaired.  I've sent a lot of cast parts to a place in Wisconsin called Crow's Custom Cast Welding where they do spray welding of cast iron.  It's been a couple years since I sent some, but they did an excellent job and the cost was very reasonable I thought.  Boss machines commonly have broken cast iron parts.  The side plates of the upper frame will get broken from the machine falling off a timber.  I also previously mentioned the broken ears which I see on both Boss and Millers falls.

Another common problem is the set screw hole in the chuck to hold the bit.  I think the chucks were too soft and over time the threads would strip out.  Often they would then drill a new hole in the chuck at 90 degees or 180 degrees to the old one and tap it for a new set screw.  You can use it as is.  One day I intend to make improved chucks.



Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Bruce_Gordon

Thank-you both for the quick replies. This is great info.

Jim,
Once I get through this project I'd love a test drive. Thanks for the kind offer. Will be in touch.

Brad,
I very much appreciate the benefit of your experience with these machines. Good to know they can be repaired and maintained.
Loud chainsaws inspire respect enough while cutting limbs to keep one's own.

Ljohnsaw

I have two machines.  One I got off of eBay for a low price (Ajax IIRC) that was originally intended for constructing railroad tressels (can take really long bit) and can be set at angles.  I thought I would need that (don't)  The other I got from Jim.  I have 4 bits (two 2", 1½" and 1"), two of which I got from Jim.  The eBay one took a bit of work to make it do what it is supposed to do - pretty worn.  The one from Jim I ended up making new uprights.  I think it didn't like leaving the humid east coast to the dry west coast (Sierras).  One of the uprights crooked and made the seat twist as well so it wouldn't sit flat.  Anyhow, made them taller (about 2") to accommodate all my bits and to fit me better.  I only used the Ajax for a day or two when I had help.  I like the one from Jim much better and I have drilled a LOT of holes with it.  I keep the bits razor sharp all the time - touch them up after each timber along with my chisels and slicks.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Bruce_Gordon

Thank-you, John, for the insights into boring machine ownership. I can see how angle boring might seem a useful feature at first (I thought so) and then you realize that working _with_ gravity instead of askew from it makes more sense.

Loud chainsaws inspire respect enough while cutting limbs to keep one's own.

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