Saw chain info

[Razorhunter]

How is my local Stihl dealer simply glancing at my Stihl MS310 saw chain and quickly determining that it can or cannot be sharpened? Is it simply a matter of knowing how much steel material is left at the tooths sharp (or dull) cutting edge?

Second, what is the reason behind having chains that are not of the reduced kickback type? Do they cut better or something? I guess I'm wondering why Stihl doesn't just offer all reduced kickback chains only? They seem to cut great to me.

Finally, how does one know what exact size file to use to sharpen a particular chain? (without asking the Stihl dealer or looking this info up) Can one simply look at the saw chain and just see which diameter file fits into the tooth the best? This is how I've always done it (ya know, put the ol good-eye on it), but something tells me this isn't the best method.

Thanks for the help. Just trying to learn all I can.

[beenthere]

How is my local Stihl dealer simply glancing at my Stihl MS310 saw chain and quickly determining that it can or cannot be sharpened? Is it simply a matter of knowing how much steel material is left at the tooths sharp (or dull) cutting edge?

Yes, very likely it comes with seeing a lot of chains come into his shop.

Second, what is the reason behind having chains that are not of the reduced kickback type? Do they cut better or something? I guess I'm wondering why Stihl doesn't just offer all reduced kickback chains only? They seem to cut great to me.

I wouldn't buy a chain that is reduced or anti kickback. They cut slower, and cannot make an easy plunge cut for felling some leaning trees.

Finally, how does one know what exact size file to use to sharpen a particular chain? (without asking the Stihl dealer or looking this info up) Can one simply look at the saw chain and just see which diameter file fits into the tooth the best? This is how I've always done it (ya know, put the ol good-eye on it), but something tells me this isn't the best method.

Different chains take different size files. Tell us your chain, and someone will "look it up" for you.   Really not that hard to do, and going to the Stihl site will likely have it all there.

Good questions for a beginner. Glad you asked.

[harrymontana]

can you take a close up picture of your chain and I will explain...

[JohnG28]

Most likely you have standard 3/8" chain on your 310. The bar has markings on it just forward of the power head which says the bar length, chain pitch, and chain gauge. If it is regular 3/8" chain then you would want either a 13/64" in file, which Stihl makes, or 7/32", which many companies make. I use the 13/64" on my 3/8" chains with good results. The antikickback chains, like was said, don't do as well bore cutting. A good standard, chisel chain will cut noticeably faster, especially in clean wood. It will dull faster most likely, but can be touched up pretty quick if not beat up too bad.  Stihl color codes their chains, yellow labeled are non safety and green labeled are safety chains.

[Ianab]

How is my local Stihl dealer simply glancing at my Stihl MS310 saw chain and quickly determining that it can or cannot be sharpened? Is it simply a matter of knowing how much steel material is left at the tooths sharp (or dull) cutting edge?

Basically you look at the top plate of the cutter. Each time the chain is sharpened this gets shorter. How much depends on how badly dulled the chain is. If it's just a quick touch up with a file, then you hardly notice the difference, and you can sharpen the chain 100 times. If you've tried to saw a rock or something the cutter will be badly messed up, and you have to grind / file away a lot more material to get a good cutting edge again.

The Stihl chains usually have a diagonal guide line near the rear of the cutter. This both shows the correct angle to sharpen the cutter at, and it's a guide as to how far you can grind the top plate back, and still have a good cutter. When you have filed down to that line, it's time for a new chain.

There is also the rakers or "depth gauge" part of the chain. As the cutter is ground away it gets slightly lower so you have to file down the rakers occasionally to match so the cutter geometry stays the same.

But a chain that's only got 25% of the cutter left should cut just as well as a new one, as long as it's been sharpened properly.

Second, what is the reason behind having chains that are not of the reduced kickback type? Do they cut better or something?

The extra "bumpers" on the low kickback chain restrict the way the cutters can "bite", so they tend to cut slower. They are safer for novice users, and I think there is actually a legal obligation for manufacturers to supply all new saws with this chain in the US. Fortunately you can still go back and fit a conventional chain, and Stihl are quite happy to sell you this, but it's at you own risk. Their web page page tells you in big red letters that the chain is more hazardous. (Don't blame us if you do something dumb with it)

If you are making a living cutting wood, then using a chain that cuts 20% faster is a no-brainer. But a less experienced user may be happy to take their time and use the safer chain style.

There is also the issue of plunge cutting, which most safety chains don't handle well. But this tends to be a more advanced technique, so again the novice user isn't going to have the issue. But it can be a vital skill to have when cutting more hazardous trees.

Ian

[John Mc]

... If it is regular 3/8" chain then you would want either a 13/64" in file, which Stihl makes, or 7/16", which many companies make.

Hey John G,  I think you meant 7/32", not 7/16"

[JohnG28]

... If it is regular 3/8" chain then you would want either a 13/64" in file, which Stihl makes, or 7/16", which many companies make.

Hey John G,  I think you meant 7/32", not 7/16"

:D
Thanks John, you are correct. 7/16" file would be some monster chain.  :D

[HolmenTree]

These green and yellow color coded chains came from strict ANSI standards that were set back in the mid 1980s. [In 1980 Canada's CSA standards said "all chainsaws sold in Canada must have a chainbrake" but not so strict as ANSI on the chain standards]
Manufacturers and big Government safety were at odds at the time, plus alot of chainsaw dealers were scared to dickens they were going to get sued. More and more non pro consumers were buying commercial grade saws, something had to be done. How many hand tools are available out there as dangerous as a chainsaw?

[bandmiller2]

Anti-kickback chain is like a bike with training wheels,but fine for a pilgrim.Most boxes of new chain will tell you what size file to use.Dealers like to sell you new chains. Frank C.

[Weekend_Sawyer]

I believe the file size is stamped on the side of my 20 inch sthil bar.