Poulan pro 50cc 20in bar I'm looking at one these saws for starts but my dream is to have stihl 031 or 036 with a 20in bar any good or bads on the poulan any info would be gladly appreciated
The 031 is an antique compared to the 034/036. For the price of a new Poulan, you can find a nice used 034/036 and end up with what you really wanted to begin with.
TSC has the poulan 5020 for $179 right now. Good bang for the buck IMO for a occasional use or homeowner firewood saw. I bought one just to test out and on its 5th tank.
Mine needed tuned out of the box on the L side and I. H was about right. You will need a spline carb tool, if you know how to tune or redneck make a tool. ;)
Most used 034 036 I see used are going for $250 - $350 asking. 034 on the 250-300 range and the 300-350 on 036. I sold a rebuilt good looking 036 pro for $320 with b+c.
Quote from: 60lp on January 07, 2014, 09:22:58 AM
Poulan pro 50cc 20in bar I'm looking at one these saws for starts but my dream is to have stihl 031 or 036 with a 20in bar any good or bads on the poulan any info would be gladly appreciated
The bar oiling system is very weak IMO. Decent saw for the money,definitely not a pro equivalent saw :P
Almost need a sticky topic about this one saw. :)
I almost bought one just as a beater. Decided I'd rather get a good used saw instead. Less chuckling in the shop when I need it fixed. ;)
Quote from: 60lp on January 07, 2014, 09:22:58 AM
Poulan pro 50cc 20in bar I'm looking at one these saws for starts but my dream is to have stihl 031 or 036 with a 20in bar any good or bads on the poulan any info would be gladly appreciated
??? That's an odd list of options - any particular reason that you listed those?
20" bar would not be my first choice for a 50cc Poulan Pro saw. While they probably do sell them that way (I've never really paid attention to that particular saw, but the box stores always seem to want to put too big a bar for the powerhead, IMO).
If you don't mind reconditioned vminnovations on Ebay has a Poulan Pro 5020 for $139 with free shipping. Steve
Quote from: John Mc on January 11, 2014, 02:35:42 PM
20" bar would not be my first choice for a 50cc Poulan Pro saw. While they probably do sell them that way (I've never really paid attention to that particular saw, but the box stores always seem to want to put too big a bar for the powerhead, IMO).
The bar likely is way too long for the saw, unless it comes with one of the pathetic 3/8" lo-pro skip chains (or something like that).
Quote from: ladylake on January 11, 2014, 04:50:05 PM
If you don't mind reconditioned vminnovations on Ebay has a Poulan Pro 5020 for $139 with free shipping. Steve
Or, go direct to www dot VMInnovations dot com and get FedEx shipping included.
Quote from: SawTroll on January 11, 2014, 05:16:45 PM
Quote from: John Mc on January 11, 2014, 02:35:42 PM
20" bar would not be my first choice for a 50cc Poulan Pro saw. While they probably do sell them that way (I've never really paid attention to that particular saw, but the box stores always seem to want to put too big a bar for the powerhead, IMO).
The bar likely is way too long for the saw, unless it comes with one of the pathetic 3/8" lo-pro skip chains (or something like that).
I've run a PP5020 for a year plus now, with OEM 20" bar and 3/8" "vanguard" chain. Cuts just fine in blowdown hickory with bar buried. Where'd you get the "way too long" judgment?
It is a CHAIN saw, so, first see that the chain is fully ready. Ignore the snobs.
CTYank - I'm sorry if my opinion rubbed you the wrong way. I don't consider myself a chainsaw snob. I'm not dissing the saw. Just saying that there are not many 50cc saws that can do justice to a 20" bar (at least not in their stock condition), thus "not my first choice". I own a Jonsered 2152 (50cc - twin sister to the Husky 353). I like the saw a lot, but I wouldn't put a 20" bar on it (even though their advertising says it will handle it). I don't like the balance with a longer bar, or the extra length swinging around when I'm cutting smaller stuff. Not to mention that it lacks the power to cut the type of wood I'm cutting in the time I want to spend (or perhaps I just lack the patience?)
I hear you about taking care of the chain. For several years, my ONLY saw was a 40cc Jonsered 2141. It was a nice saw for what it was. But you certainly needed patience if you were cutting hardwoods - especially over 12". The one good thing that saw did was teach me to sharpen a chain well. If you buried that 16" bar in a beech or hard maple, you were going nowhere unless you had a sharp chain. When I got the 2152, the 2141 went to my brother-in-law. He's happier than a pig in slop with it, cutting some pretty good sized pine (just about all that grows on his island) , and it's still running strong.
I'll admit I tend to be biased towards the shortest bar that will get the job done. Old high school and college neck and back injuries tend to keep me towards the smaller saws and shorter bars (even then, a marathon weekend of firewood cutting usually means a visit to the chiropractor shortly afterward).
I'd keep my eye out for a used Stihl, Husky, or Dolmar for about the same price. Problem I find with the cheap box store saws is the little stuff that breaks and goes bad after a few years. Linkages, hoses, clips, plastic fittings, etc.. That little stuff will drive you nuts, and kill your productivity.
A well maintained Stihl will be so much more enjoyable for you and reliable in the long run.
this Poulan Pro 5020av is a pretty good one and at $130 range I buy two when I see them Factory Reman .... they NEVER get stolen and I like to say I can tape a $100 bill on them and still not get stolen
They're down to $105 with free shipping for a refurb now on fleebay. Sure is tempting if I didn't have a bunch of 50cc saws that are lighter with better power. Steve
just picked one up at Sears 20 inch bar 50 cc model 71 35098 for $199 runs ok
Quote from: John Mc on January 14, 2014, 05:31:38 PM
CTYank - I'm sorry if my opinion rubbed you the wrong way. I don't consider myself a chainsaw snob. I'm not dissing the saw. Just saying that there are not many 50cc saws that can do justice to a 20" bar (at least not in their stock condition), thus "not my first choice". I own a Jonsered 2152 (50cc - twin sister to the Husky 353). I like the saw a lot, but I wouldn't put a 20" bar on it (even though their advertising says it will handle it). I don't like the balance with a longer bar, or the extra length swinging around when I'm cutting smaller stuff. Not to mention that it lacks the power to cut the type of wood I'm cutting in the time I want to spend (or perhaps I just lack the patience?)
I hear you about taking care of the chain. For several years, my ONLY saw was a 40cc Jonsered 2141. It was a nice saw for what it was. But you certainly needed patience if you were cutting hardwoods - especially over 12". The one good thing that saw did was teach me to sharpen a chain well. If you buried that 16" bar in a beech or hard maple, you were going nowhere unless you had a sharp chain. When I got the 2152, the 2141 went to my brother-in-law. He's happier than a pig in slop with it, cutting some pretty good sized pine (just about all that grows on his island) , and it's still running strong.
I'll admit I tend to be biased towards the shortest bar that will get the job done. Old high school and college neck and back injuries tend to keep me towards the smaller saws and shorter bars (even then, a marathon weekend of firewood cutting usually means a visit to the chiropractor shortly afterward).
John, not in any way directed at you. Rather, at some who could be said to pontificate at a distance. I'll leave it at that. To me, it's all about the chain. That's why I really like guided filing.
I've also got a 16" bar for the PP5020. I'm no fan of the obvious symbology of the long bar. Ran a tankful through the 5020 today, cutting up some of the Sandy damage that's still available in quantity down here. Most of today's cutting was in downed black locust- a serious test. The saw just kept singing. Cuts for a long time on a tank, with the strato engine. More fun yet was running a few tankfuls through my new Dolmar PS-6100. Fellows named her "Dolly". I think they're fond of her, too.
When all was done, a stroke per tooth, and there were two sets of razors. Cared for, they're all good.
031
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34433/IMAG0192.jpg)
Pick this one up last summer with a 20" b/c
I have only seen two 031 Stihls in my life time .One in a dealers dead pile and one I tuned up for a neighbor .Kind of old school so to speak .
Quote from: CTYank on January 14, 2014, 02:47:04 PM
Quote from: SawTroll on January 11, 2014, 05:16:45 PM
Quote from: John Mc on January 11, 2014, 02:35:42 PM
20" bar would not be my first choice for a 50cc Poulan Pro saw. While they probably do sell them that way (I've never really paid attention to that particular saw, but the box stores always seem to want to put too big a bar for the powerhead, IMO).
The bar likely is way too long for the saw, unless it comes with one of the pathetic 3/8" lo-pro skip chains (or something like that).
I've run a PP5020 for a year plus now, with OEM 20" bar and 3/8" "vanguard" chain. Cuts just fine in blowdown hickory with bar buried. Where'd you get the "way too long" judgment?
It is a CHAIN saw, so, first see that the chain is fully ready. Ignore the snobs.
You can of course get away with that - but the balance of the saw will be bad and the cutting slow. Not everyone care of course, each to their own.
It always seems that the less experience someone has with a particular saw, the stronger the opinion. The Poulan 5020 is a descent saw in all honesty. Because of it's weight and handle spacing it seems to balance okay with a 20" bar. It also seems to have good torque for 50cc. In fact it's low end torque seems better than some pro 50cc saws IMHO. The overall design is based on the Husky 455 from what I can tell, and the 455 is a fine firewood saw in it's own right. I would take the 5020 over any of the low end Stihl saws that are on the market right now, and it's pretty much the same as the low end Husky's IMHO.
Keep in mind, most of the so called cheap box store saws will last a reasonable amount of time with proper care. Problem is most who buy this type of saw are completely clueless, and I'm being kind with that statement.
This is literally a 20$ saw. The fuel lines were disintegrated and the carb diaphragms were also hard as a rock. So ad another 20 and a little port work, and this is what you get. Not bad for 40 bucks and a little elbow grease.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TrSN_FTGxk
Quote from: SawTroll on August 19, 2014, 02:03:16 PM
Quote from: CTYank on January 14, 2014, 02:47:04 PM
Quote from: SawTroll on January 11, 2014, 05:16:45 PM
Quote from: John Mc on January 11, 2014, 02:35:42 PM
20" bar would not be my first choice for a 50cc Poulan Pro saw. While they probably do sell them that way (I've never really paid attention to that particular saw, but the box stores always seem to want to put too big a bar for the powerhead, IMO).
The bar likely is way too long for the saw, unless it comes with one of the pathetic 3/8" lo-pro skip chains (or something like that).
I've run a PP5020 for a year plus now, with OEM 20" bar and 3/8" "vanguard" chain. Cuts just fine in blowdown hickory with bar buried. Where'd you get the "way too long" judgment?
It is a CHAIN saw, so, first see that the chain is fully ready. Ignore the snobs.
You can of course get away with that - but the balance of the saw will be bad and the cutting slow. Not everyone care of course, each to their own.
Niko, did you ever run one of these? Or even pick one up? It's nothing about getting away with anything. It's about getting it ready, firing it up, and doing a job. We have all sorts of trees around here, that might be a wee bit larger than you encounter in Norway, and maybe a bit less machinable. Intense work, IOW.
Thie 5020 can handle, as mentioned, fully engaged bar in hickory. Not to mention black locust. Ever encountered those? Not quite like pulp-wood.
What ever are you talking about with "balance being bad"? C'mon. Not everyone cares about lots of stuff. Who cares about that? For $180, one might guess that you're jealous.
The 20" bar goes back on for EAB-killed ash, next, with "vanguard" chain even. That's a good workout, too. Chain filed with guide, of course, just because it works. Eschew snobbery.
Well, it is just a 50.8cc saw with a clamshell engine, so I don't believe in any miracles regarding the power (no specs), that will make it a really good performer with a 20" 3/8 setup.
Regardless - I am sure it is worth the 180USD it costs, to those that will consider such a saw. :)
No, I haven't ran one - those saws just aren't here.
Quote from: Andyshine77 on August 20, 2014, 02:23:00 AM
It always seems that the less experience someone has with a particular saw, the stronger the opinion. The Poulan 5020 is a descent saw in all honesty. Because of it's weight and handle spacing it seems to balance okay with a 20" bar. It also seems to have good torque for 50cc. In fact it's low end torque seems better than some pro 50cc saws IMHO. The overall design is based on the Husky 455 from what I can tell, and the 455 is a fine firewood saw in it's own right. I would take the 5020 over any of the low end Stihl saws that are on the market right now, and it's pretty much the same as the low end Husky's IMHO.
Keep in mind, most of the so called cheap box store saws will last a reasonable amount of time with proper care. Problem is most who buy this type of saw are completely clueless, and I'm being kind with that statement.
This is literally a 20$ saw. The fuel lines were disintegrated and the carb diaphragms were also hard as a rock. So ad another 20 and a little port work, and this is what you get. Not bad for 40 bucks and a little elbow grease.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TrSN_FTGxk
8)
I had Fun using this saw yesterday starts easy and cut good ... I have been told you can get 16 inch bars for it . . .