And another sawmill build thread...

[Ljohnsaw]

No luck on getting belts today.  Not a common size (3L720).  Best was 660 but I don't have a way to make up the difference (can't lower the engine any).  I ordered some online but that will take a week.  So, I had some spare belt links and replace the really bad/melted ones.  With the belt really tight now, I am able to bog the engine if I go too fast.  The redwood log is dry with some rot and lots of knots - I can cut a 8" x 10' board in less than 30 seconds - I think this is doable!

I did a test of depth cuts on the end just to get some measurements.

 

I dropped the blade first one revolution on the crank, then 2, 3, 4, 5 and it was supposed to be 6 but I lost track...
I cut a full board at 1 crank and that gave a 1/8" slice.  I measured it and it was +/- 1/32", probably blade flutter.  I've been doing 5 cranks which gives me 1-1/16" (plus a hair).  Ten cranks does 2-3/16".

When making 1" boards that you want to plane one side, what thickness should you cut green?  If I do 6 cranks, it should give me a 1-5/16".  But I suppose I should put up a measuring scale and do it the right way  ;)

[gww]

It takes me probly 2 to 3 minutes to cut the same size board.  I would say 30 seconds is quite good if the board is good.
gww

[Ljohnsaw]

Made the trip up the hill to setup my mill.

 
And first cut:

  
Had some 2 year downed trees that I want to make into form boards for my footings.  With the one bed, I can cut 10' 10".  I need about 200' of 2x12s and some 2x8 for the stepped foundation.  I started off with the closest logs and came up with this pile. 

 
Wow, this is addicting and fun!  Getting the logs, I have to thread the needle with my SkyTrak.

 
The bruised trees will be used for other timbers in my cabin.  That tree on the left with the sweep and lean - what can that wood be best be used.  I know it has lots of stress but would it be better to keep it big and make posts/beams or thin so you can make it conform (bend) to where you want it?

[gww]

L (not little)john
I can't help with your question but I want your sky tracker.

It looks like you are doing well and you are correct, it is addicting. 

I really enjoyed your pictures.
Cheers
gww

[beenthere]

Ljohn
Jump-cut that pistol butt off that leaning tree (last pic) and don't think you will have much trouble with the lumber above that point. At least not much, if any.

[Ljohnsaw]

L (not little)john
I can't help with your question but I want your sky tracker.

It looks like you are doing well and you are correct, it is addicting. 

I really enjoyed your pictures.
Cheers
gww

I got the SkyTrak for a decent price (I think) but it is OLD - 1984-86 vintage with lots of hours (I looked but forgot already).  The biggest problem with it is the pavement tires it has on it - no tread.  When it rains (or snows), the super fine dirt turns to grease - the slightest hill and this thing just slides down hill.  I'm building the cabin myself (with help from my 11 yo son) so I needed some muscle.  My son is already helping operate it.

 
That is a 4.5" water drill rod, 18' tall and the solar panel swivels on the top because I haven't bolted it yet.

 
I welded a split piece of 6" well casing to the rod with some angle iron brackets to bolt it on.  Works great, though not exactly plumb...
When I was setting this pole up for my solar (the trees will be going soon), I was giving hand signals while he maneuvered the pole (he was not able to see it due to the blocks).  He did great!  But was a little jittery from the adrenalin rush afterwards  :D

[gww]

My dads kabota is 4wheel drive but has turf tires on the back.  Makes a differrence.  I am in my 50s and would be shakeing with adrenalin.  You look busy.
gww

[Ljohnsaw]

I had bad times with my twin belt setup (they liked to tango and shred themselves).  I pulled off the 14" twin pulley but couldn't find a machine shop to turn it into a single wide pulley.  So I put it on my rotary table and used my mill to take out the center web.  It's back on the mill with a single heavy duty belt ready to get to work.

Back a few posts (#4 & #23) you can see my homemade blade guides.  They work great - until I turn on the blade lube.  That, apparently, brought some sawdust in with the water behind the bearing seals - and toasted the bearing, twice.  So I just received my Cook's Blade guides (1.25") that I ordered on Thursday.

I'm going to fabricate my own 1/2" grease-able bolts.  The ones they show on their website have the Zerk fitting in the threaded end of the bolt.  I'm a little concerned that will weaken the bolt in that thin section so I am planning on doing the hole from the head end of the bolt.

These guides are going to be going really fast - what type of grease do you guys use?  I didn't see a recommendation on Cook's site.  I could use high speed wheel hub grease (the red stuff) or I could use "boat trailer" grease that is waterproof.  I'm thinking the waterproof might be a better choice.

Comments, please!

[Magicman]

I am surprised that the bearings are not sealed.  If (soapy) water can get into the bearings, then the grease can get out so why use "waterproof" grease.  I would ask and use what Cooks recommends.

[Ljohnsaw]

I think the speed and heat buildup was just too high on my bearing that I used.  I really have no idea what they were rated for - I went for the size.  If they were about 2" and my wheels are 21" spinning at ~700rpm, that would put them at about 7,000rpm.  A typical bearing is only rated for about half that, maybe.  First, it spun out some grease and then the seals (plastic?) seemed to deform, maybe melted. 

The Cook's bearings are not sealed (they have a metal cover) and are recessed into the roller.  They come with a "T" shaped bushing for both sides.  The Zerk-fitted bolt has a groove and grease exit hole that lines up where the two bearing meet in the middle of the "wheel".  I'll question Cook's but I think the stiffer, more heat resistant wheel bearing grease will do much better.  Having it ooze around the bushings should do for a good dust seal, preventing it from getting near the rollers.

[Ox]

For what it's worth, I put Cook's guide rollers on my mill.  There's no shield or seal or anything.  I pump 3 strokes every time before I start up and it forces the remainder of sawdust packed grease out of the front.  I wipe it away and mill.  That new grease kind slings off but some stays behind to provide a barrier against sawdust infiltration.  It almost acts like a renewable "grease shield".  I use very little for lube (kerosene and bar oil mix) that is wick applied so I wouldn't know how my setup works with lots of water or such.

I would like to someday remember to grease them after milling for the day but I've yet to remember to do this.

I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to make a shield of sorts from some plastic from a barrel or bucket or PVC pipe.  PVC can be heated and molded to any shape you want and when it cools it's just as strong as when it was pipe.  Neat stuff.

[gww]

I think I read that cooks wants them greased everytime the mill stops caused the heat draws the grease in like a wick.  You guys would cringe at my set up.  No grease.  Just a shot of wd40 on all moving parts daily.  No cover for the mill.  It sits out in all weather.  The wheels are plastic pullys and have gaps that I can see the water and sawdust in it.  I squirt wd and go.  If I let it sit for months with out use I believe I would have issues.  The time I had the most issues with guide bearings was when my mill was running too fast.  That might be the real thing you need to work on.  The above doesn't mean that my bearings won't freeze immediatly when I go back out side from typing this.
Cheers
gww.

[Ljohnsaw]

Ox,
I suppose it depends on which Cook's guides you bought, but this is the version I just got.

 
I got the 1.25" blade size guide.  Front to back on the bushings is 1.5".  If you take the bushing out, you see the pair of ball bearings held in place with snap rings.  Cook's (I assume) ground a notch in the inner raceway on one bearing to provide a way for the grease to get inside the bearing.  I made the Zerk bolt with the hole being in the shank part of the bolt rather than the threaded, thinner section.  This also let me put the Zerk out front so it is easier to get to and I'm more likely to grease it every time.  There were no bearing numbers visible (I didn't want to remove them) and I'd be interested in the ratings on them.  Spinning them by hand, you can feel a little roughness (compared to what I have on my shop equipment), so I hope they hold up at the speeds they will be turning.

As you can see, I have car tires for my mill so I doubt that I will be using Diesel fuel - I think it would destroy the tires over time.  I'll stick to Pinesol and/or Cascade dishwasher soap when I need it.

Besides replacing blades when they start to dive (getting dull), what really is "dull"?  I cut a number of logs (6 or 7?) with one blade.  It seems to have slowed down cutting but the blade still scrapes a thin shaving off my finger nail - so is that still sharp?

[Magicman]

Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that Cooks uses solid bandwheels (no belts) and uses Diesel for blade lube. 

With those open bearings, I would imagine that soapy water would enter and wash the grease from those bearing.  In that case, a "waterproof" grease would be in order.

[Kbeitz]

My Cooks wheels came with no grease fittings and no bolts....



 

[Ljohnsaw]

My Cooks wheels came with no grease fittings and no bolts....



 

Right, the bolts are an additional $12.95 each.  Since I needed shorter bolts than what they offer, I had the bolts on hand (fine thread) and I have a lathe, I just made my own.

[Ox]

Yes, those are the guides I have also.  I used zerk bolts from a WM LT70 the neighbor has.  I don't have alot of time on them yet but they are about the same as the other ones I've seen.  I need to get in the habit of greasing after milling instead of before for the wicking issue mentioned.  I wanted to say that in my previous post but couldn't find the words without typing a whole bunch of sentences. 

There are guys who have replaced the greasable bearings with sealed high speeds with no problems and many hours of run time.  I think Pineywoods did this?  When they wear out they are easily replaceable.  Of course they may last so long that when the bearings wear out it's time for new guide rollers anyway.

[Ljohnsaw]

I cut up a couple more logs last Wednesday with my new single, thicker belt and all went well.  The 7hp motor was bogging down (no belt slippage) and made me want to upgrade the engine.  I found an old Craftsman 18hp twin cylinder lawn tractor engine with a electric clutch on CL.  Waiting for an ignition switch and starter solenoid to come in from Amazon tomorrow.  Also need to pick up a small battery to run the starter.  It might be a bit tricky to fit the new engine in the frame.  However, it should make some serious sawdust now!

[Kbeitz]

Recoil starters can be bought for your engine.

[deadfall]

I cut up a couple more logs last Wednesday with my new single, thicker belt and all went well.  The 7hp motor was bogging down (no belt slippage) and made me want to upgrade the engine.  I found an old Craftsman 18hp twin cylinder lawn tractor engine with a electric clutch on CL.  Waiting for an ignition switch and starter solenoid to come in from Amazon tomorrow.  Also need to pick up a small battery to run the starter.  It might be a bit tricky to fit the new engine in the frame.  However, it should make some serious sawdust now!

I know there are a few lawn tractors out there with horizontal shaft engines, but nearly all of them have vertical shafts.  I have only dealt with one that was a horizontal shaft, and we totaled it when the electric clutch failed, as the replacement cost for that alone tipped the scales on whether it was worth the repair, as it had other issues as well.  Got any more pictures?

[Kbeitz]

If your lookin for horizontal shaft engines then you meed to look for garden tractors. Not lawn tractors...

[deadfall]

I suppose that thing could have been called a "garden tractor," but it was really a high end rider mower.  I don't think I will ever be in the market for any air cooled tractors.

[Ljohnsaw]

I spent the morning re-aligning my main pulley behind the drive wheel.  I didn't pay attention to the position when I pulled it off to modify the V-groove.  It is held on with three bolts and when I put it back on it was not running true - about 60/1000" out of round.  Now I'm within 15/1000.  The tire was out of wack as well so I repositioned it and its pretty close now.

This motor has two pulleys, one on each end.  One is on the magneto flywheel and is fixed.  That one ran the transmission.  The other side has the electric clutch and it ran whatever attachment was on it (typically the mower deck).  I got the starter switch and solenoid in the mail by 1:00.  I straightened up the wiring harness (was cut out in a few places) and hooked everything up.  I powered it up with my battery charger just to check the start switch/starter and that worked.  Will be picking up a battery tomorrow and continue working on it Wednesday.  I didn't have any large lugs to make my battery cables - so I used some 1/4" copper tubing and made my own - works really well and a whole lot cheaper than the hardware store!  Pictures will be on Wednesday - before and after the engine swap.  The new engine is an 18" cube.

[Kbeitz]

Did you also get the rectifier to keep the battery charged up ???

[Ljohnsaw]

Did you also get the rectifier to keep the battery charged up ???

Yep!  I left the headlights somewhere so I guess I won't be cutting after dark :D  I double checked the clutch and it seems to be working.  Up to the property today to work on the foundation forms.