Stihl dealer says"cost of repair exceeds value"MS250.I need ur opinion please.

[tcrew]

Use some Yamabond when you put the new seals in.

Thanks AdkStihl for the tip! sure will:)

[tcrew]

A dealer no matter what brand of saw it is will charge you the standard price for parts with few exceptions .None will be inexpensive .

One very fine alternative could be people ,venders or sellers of used parts such as Scott from Chainsawr who is a sponser of this site . Good used parts work as good as shiny new ones in most cases for only a fraction of the cost .

Then too is the alternative of donor saws to acquire the needed parts .Really robbing Peter to pay Paul in a way but often working well taking maybe two or three junkers  to get one good runner .Myself and others do it all the time .

You have to have a dumpster diver mind set at times on some of this stuff .

Just depends on what you want to do I guess .

Thanks Al_, i agree on sum parts, but when it comes down to seals and bearings, id rather not take a gamble and go new. Their $14 each and 20 for the seals. After how this saw threw a bearing so young in its life makes me just want to shell out the cash for new parts. 
Thanks again Al

[Al_Smith]

Well there's got to be a reason why it flung a bearing in the first place .

In defense of Stihl even on a lower priced saw such as is the subject in question they don't use sub standard parts .

The reasons could be many .Running the chain too tight.Dust injestion ,worn sprocket or rim allowing the chain to climb .Faulty clutch bearing causing the clutch drum to run excentric  .

Considering low hours run time those probabley wouldn't apply .Maybe just bad luck for want of a reasonable explaination . ???

[tcrew]

Well there's got to be a reason why it flung a bearing in the first place .

In defense of Stihl even on a lower priced saw such as is the subject in question they don't use sub standard parts .

The reasons could be many .Running the chain too tight.Dust injestion ,worn sprocket or rim allowing the chain to climb .Faulty clutch bearing causing the clutch drum to run excentric  .

Considering low hours run time those probabley wouldn't apply .Maybe just bad luck for want of a reasonable explaination . ???

lol,,,yeah Al_   thats exactly what that dealer said to me, "just bad luck"..but that was the first time,,my last visit he went to price the bearings and found that stihl DID have a problem with them,and even changed production of the bearings half way thru the run from saws(ms250) 3 years back to almost present. And he said it doesnt say why,just some kind of problem. And he doesnt know why they still are showing up on his parts list,but now there are 2 bearings available.. The old ones that they changed,and the new ones. $13.85 each. Either way, bad luck or bad bearing, hurts the same on a like new saw. And all the possible causes u listed, none apply here. This saw has only had 2 chains ran on it. Its the saw in my photo on the bottom. That was taken just b4 i took it to the dealer.. Thank u for ur input Al  

[Al_Smith]

 I had heard a report of the plastic cages coming apart on certain bearings  but I don't recall the exact situation nor the model or company involved .

Unfortunately premature failure of parts can happen to any manufacturer no matter if it's chain saws ,automobiles or kitchen appliances . Service buttetons might be send out or recalls for replacements which again depending might be ignored or have time limit stipulations placed upon them as to warentee .

It's just something that no matter if it's Stihl ,General Motors ,Ford or some makers of kitchen ranges or the allmighty Honda and Toyota in fact .Things happen,too bad but such is the way the cookie crumbles .

[tcrew]

I had heard a report of the plastic cages coming apart on certain bearings  but I don't recall the exact situation nor the model or company involved .

Unfortunately premature failure of parts can happen to any manufacturer no matter if it's chain saws ,automobiles or kitchen appliances . Service buttetons might be send out or recalls for replacements which again depending might be ignored or have time limit stipulations placed upon them as to warentee .

It's just something that no matter if it's Stihl ,General Motors ,Ford or some makers of kitchen ranges or the allmighty Honda and Toyota in fact .Things happen,too bad but such is the way the cookie crumbles .

Thats exactly what happened to this bearing, the plastic ring just broke apart,and the saw still ran,but only for few seconds and the piece plastic would get wedged under the crank and just stop the saw dead!  And yeah, i understand these things happen. Im a stihl man! Just because i got a bad cookie,doesnt put me off of the brand,,,just gave me the wisdom to buy a better Grade Stihl saw! lol   Thanks again      

And the bearing wasnt blue at all. Never got hot. Just that plastic gave up the ghost!

[Al_Smith]

Judging by the price for replacement then evidently this was not one of the special OEM designed Stihl bearings .If it were the price would be around 35-40 bucks for replacement .

[w8ye]

For others reading this, when the bearing cage goes, several of the balls will go together and leave a blank space. The bearing and crank gets off-center and hangs up

[tcrew]

For others reading this, when the bearing cage goes, several of the balls will go together and leave a blank space. The bearing and crank gets off-center and hangs up

w8ye, ok , now that sounds right. I thought the 1/4 inch piece of the hard plastic cage was stopping it,but i now know u nailed it. Because there wasnt any damage to the crank, the saw would just stop. Thank u for the info

[tcrew]

Judging by the price for replacement then evidently this was not one of the special OEM designed Stihl bearings .If it were the price would be around 35-40 bucks for replacement .

Al_, all i know is they were the original bearings that came in the saw from new. And the price i was given was $13.85 each, but id gladly pay more for a stronger bearing if they are available.. Thanks again Al_   

[Al_Smith]

 I don't happen to have a parts list for a 250 or in fact most of the newer saws like the170-190 etc .However if the bearings are a generic metric size and design they can be cross referenced .

On the pro grade of saws Stihl not to mention many German companys like to use specially designed components which are only available through their company .No matter which component or which company or what product those parts will be costly .It's just the way they do things  and no amount  of complaining will ever change that .

14-15 bucks like I said would about be in the ball park for a standard  metric bearing which is not OEM .That said they are priced within reason to the market .

Now I'm only guessing but would speculate that if Stihl had a problem with that specific component they would have replaced it with a better quality item .I'm not privy to the service bullitons on that saw so I'm certain .

[tcrew]

I don't happen to have a parts list for a 250 or in fact most of the newer saws like the170-190 etc .However if the bearings are a generic metric size and design they can be cross referenced .

On the pro grade of saws Stihl not to mention many German companys like to use specially designed components which are only available through their company .No matter which component or which company or what product those parts will be costly .It's just the way they do things  and no amount  of complaining will ever change that .

14-15 bucks like I said would about be in the ball park for a standard  metric bearing which is not OEM .That said they are priced within reason to the market .

Now I'm only guessing but would speculate that if Stihl had a problem with that specific component they would have replaced it with a better quality item .I'm not privy to the service bullitons on that saw so I'm certain .

Al_, the bearings im referring to,are from the dealer. And Stihl did replace the problem bearings with a replacement bearing. And thats the $13.85 ones. So im not sure what or why they changed half way thru the run, but they did according to the stihl dealer.And he said the service bullitons  didnt say why,just their was a change due to a problem. All i know is i sure dont want this happening again, but from urs,and every one elses opinions, i dont see that happening. Or at least i hope not..lol   Thanks again for all ur help. 

and the bearing # is 9503 003 0340 that the dealer gave me.  Its the ones i will be buying and fixing the saw with.

[paladin]

 The bearings are pretty easy to put in those saws compared to the pro models. I would recomend the Dirko sealer I don't think it is the same as permatex red. You need something that will really stand up to gas or you will have bigger problems than bad bearings if that saw starts sucking air. I think Dirko is more like Threebond,Yamabond or Hondabond motorcycle sealers. Dirko will only cost about $5-$10 more than permatex and is worth it.  Just what I have learned.

[treejoe]

IT'S SIMPLE, GO TO EBAY OR CREGIS LIST TO GET YOUR BEARING(S). THEY ARE GOING TO BE A LOT CHEAPER THAN ANY OTHER PLACE. PUT THEM ON AND BINGO. A LOT OF TIMES YOU CAN BUY A WHOLE SAW THATS BEING SOLD FOR PARTS FOR NEXT TO NOTHING.
AS FAR AS YOUR DEALER, I WOULD GET ON THE INTERNET, GO TO THE STIHL WEBSITE AND LOOK UP LOCAL DEALERS. THERE ARE 3 CLOSE TO ME BUT I CHOSE TO DRIVE AN EXTRA 12 MILES TO THE ONE I USE BECAUSE HE IS GOOD AND TREATS ME FAIR. SOMETIMES ONE HAS TO GO THE EXTRA DISTANCE FOR SERVICE, AFTER ALL, WHY PAY SOMEONE IF THEY'RE NOT DOING THEIR JOB.