Thanks to all the good advise from here my build has started. I'm making my trailer/bed first then I will work on the sawhead and carriage. I have most of the steel for the project and a lot of the hardware is on the way from surplus center. My design is mostly based on the Linn plans with a few changes. For power I'll be using a 22 hp Predator engine from Harbor Freight. I had originally wanted to go with an electric or centrifugal clutch, but the budget didn't allow it. Here a few progress pictures.
Cutting bunks:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20171227_143719.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514643153)
Crossmembers cut:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20171229_0006.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514643110)
Drilling and tapping the top bunks:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20171229_135200.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514643905)
Bunks tapped
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20171229_0010.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514643111)
Bunk mock up
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20171229_0002.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514643108)
I like your solution for the bunks. I would suggest you to also have one or two screws between the screw I can see on the photo. You would also have space for a locking nut on each screw. That nut will take the chock load when you rotates a heavy log/block and it is falling down on the bunks in the last moment. It is very convinient to adjust the bunks with this design. With the frame in level and straigt, you can mount a testindicator on the saw, roll it along the bed, adjust the bunks to height within 0,01".
When it comes to the saw, I think Thimber King has the right design of a bandsaw. The saw is "open" all the way from the cutting blade up to the return chanel for the blade. That means you can cut boards or beams in a log, from the opening cut down to the dogs, without to lift away boards. Most logbandsaws has beams and belt covers between the wheels as often is an obstacle.
The dogs, to fasten the log in best position, would be at least two or three pair. If you can fasten the log with the dogs in low positions, you will save a lot of job. I am talking here about to mill big logs to slabs with living edges.
I get staining on my lumber with plain steel bunks with out a SS cap.
Quote from: DMcCoy on December 30, 2017, 10:27:02 AM
I get staining on my lumber with plain steel bunks with out a SS cap.
That's my plan eventually, it'll be an easy upgrade. Just a budget issue at this point.
If I was building a mill I'd buy a used riding lawn more with a 35 hp diesel for power which can be bought cheap with a lot of hours left in the engine, Yanmar, Isusu or Kubota are good ones. A 22 hp Preditor will cut but real slow in wide boards. Steve
Made some more progress. I welded it upside down then flipped it. That made it easier to get the crossmembers flush with the top of the rails. I also got the tongue installed. It's 44" from the front crossmember to the ball.
Squaring it up
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20180102_0002.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514933476)
Tacking the crossmembers
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20180102_0006.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514933480)
All welded up and flipped
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20180102_0010.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514933483)
Some bunks ready for welding the straps on
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20180102_0013.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514933485)
Bunks
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20180102_0016.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514933486)
Tongue installed
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/Sawmill_Build_20180102_0018.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1514933487)
I am guessing the tongue is not removable. I made mine removable so it was one less thing to smack my knees on and walk around. plus if I do portable jobs it will go home with me making the mill a little more challenging to liberate.
looking really good so far.
Just a thought on the tongue, you could build a short hinged frame section that would reach to the hitch and could hinge/fold up for tow and down for extra track length.
I need to update this post, but working out the belt tensioning. Does this look adequate? I'm not completely sold. This is just mocked up with light materials. If I go with this I will make it more stout and support the lever arm on both sides...probably with a larger shaft.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180126_221302.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180126_221253.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180126_221313.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180126_221320.jpg)
This is the mill in it's current state.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180126_133123.jpg)
Up and working
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180530_111402.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1528047847)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180530_121720.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1528047862)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36156/20180601_100347.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1528047814)
Thanks for all the advise and suggestions.