New homemade blade tensioner, what do you think?

fishpharmer · January 25, 2009, 11:44:48 PM

I had a little time to work on the mill Friday. So I borrowed a portable welder from a friend and searched my scrap steel pile. I went to buy a threaded rod but the man who runs the bolt place said I couldn't weld it, it would get brittle. So I saw a rachet load binder and thought that may work. After a little figuring I came up with this...not puurdy but it does work. What do you think, what did I overlook?
For the records guards were on the agenda but I ran out of time. I promise not to run it without guards (I have read alot about broken blades on here).

So here it is....

I seem to be able to get all the tension I would need with this.

Thanks for looking and comments and criticisms.
jdphish

sawmilllawyer · January 26, 2009, 12:22:33 AM

I imagine that would suck it up pretty tight, seems like a good idea to me. It might be the angle of the picture but seems the handle might be a little close to the saw blade and band tire. I like it.

fishpharmer · January 26, 2009, 12:28:32 AM

Thanks, Sawmilllawyer, that was a concern of mine too. The handle actually is just outside the imaginary vertical line drawn from the closest end of the top guard down. I wanted room for guards on side. That was why I had to make the angle iron supports stick out so far.

I have seen or heard of tensionmeters (not sure if thats right) wonder how I could install one?

woodbowl · January 26, 2009, 12:41:41 AM

Quote from: fishpharmer on January 25, 2009, 11:44:48 PM
After a little figuring I came up with this...not puurdy but it does work.

Not purdy?? What do you mean, it's beautiful! 8)

shinnlinger · January 26, 2009, 02:51:27 AM

Hi,

I also love your tensioner and think it will work just fine, but I will caution against overtensioning. I have a pnuematic tired mill like yours and I used to run the bands too tight. This will contribute to wavy cuts and wearing grooves in your tires.

What fixed my wagon, was a thread on here about blade tension. It had all sorts of stuff on pounds per inch and how to measure it, but what I took away from it was to run the mill at full speed in the air and only tightening the band until it just stops deflecting up and down. Works for me.

I think THere is also a thread on using a dial caliper to measure tension, but I never got there as I have been happy with the above method.

Good luck and nice work!

bandmiller2 · January 26, 2009, 05:44:05 AM

Its hard to argue with something so simple that works,good job.Bandmills with inflated tires tend to tighten when they run due to centrifugal force on the tire.Whats also handy to tension a band is one of those spring loaded over center load binders,have one end screw adjustable,quick to release and repeatable.Frank C.

Banjo picker · January 26, 2009, 09:45:20 AM

James that looks like it might do the trick for you, but if it don't I can send you some threaded rod that you could use. It is the same rod that we used in the picking eyes to pick up the sign with. We might have already removed them when you got there though. They are 1" all thread like used on heavy concrete const. We have wielded on them, used them for picking eyes or whatever is needed, never had a problem. Not talking about the stuff you see in a hardware store or Lowes.

But it don't look like you need it anyway. If you do I will be glad to send you some. Tim

york · January 26, 2009, 10:14:59 AM

James,

I am not saying i do not like your band tightener,but you can weld the ready rod-just get the good stuff-that is how TH makes theirs and it works-later,will get pic. of my setup.....Bert

Tom · January 26, 2009, 01:27:45 PM

It's hard to argue with something that works. Looks good to me.

I do have a suggestion. Anytime you are putting an adjustment on the mill, try to arrange it so that the operator isn't in front of the blade. Always be cognizant of the fact that a running blade could get off of the wheels and ruin someone's day. Try to keep them in a safer zone behind the blade. There are some things that you can't do that way, like latches on the covers of the shroud doors. The operator has to use his head too, but it helps him to keep from doing something stupid if design things to keep him out of the danger areas.

Other things to be aware of are 'pinch points' where a hand might get in the way of moving steel. Also frame or support metal that would be walked upon when handling heavy logs, loading logs, or dragging boards and timbers from the mill. Try to keep all that stuff tucked up under the frame and out of the way.

ronwood · January 26, 2009, 02:42:54 PM

How do you determine if you have the correct tension on the blade.

I'm with Tom I think is would be better to have the adjustment so that the sawyer could adjust from behind.

Ron

Mr Mom · January 26, 2009, 03:56:21 PM

beats my car jack :-\ :-\.

Thanks Alot Mr Mom

okie · January 26, 2009, 07:04:32 PM

Buddy, I think you've done an outstanding job on that mill. 8)
The Binder was one heck of an idea.

fishpharmer · January 26, 2009, 10:31:12 PM

Thanks everyone for the comments and critiques. I was in gitterdone mode. I have been looking at this mill for three + years :-[ and all you folks have me rarin to make sawdust. So I think I should have tacked it and then presented it to the forum. But its not everyday I get to use a big portable welder. I know I shouldn't get impatient with building the mill thats why its halfway done now. I am glad the general concenses is that it will work okay. I like the pointers about staying away from the front blade and avoid cluttering things. Some industrial strength guards are next.

My simple design may be changed later, just want something that works. QUICK.

Time calculations-
I have about 1.5 hours in getting/returning welder. Maybe an hour measuring, ciphering and cutting steel. Thirty minutes welding and putting out fires in the dead grass underneath. Seems kinda slow when I look at it this way for that little thing. My point is the preperation and ciphering always takes longer than the assembly for this entire home built mill experience.

I didn't have a torch handy and had to deal with the 6x6 angle that I welded on for a winch support. I may try to cut a space on the backside and let handle come toward the rear of cutter head.

I really appreciate everyone looking and commenting.

Man I love this place 8)

sawmilllawyer · January 26, 2009, 10:46:57 PM

Hey fishpharmer, I think it is Suffolk Machinery or Timberwolf blades that has a site which tells you how to adjust the tension on the blade by watching for when it quits fluttering. The information is very good and may solve your problem without any gagets.

Firebass · January 26, 2009, 10:49:57 PM

Quote from: ronwood on January 26, 2009, 02:42:54 PM
How do you determine if you have the correct tension on the blade.

Ron

I always tention my bandsaw in the shop roughly to the key of "D" ;D A guitar tuner would work for this.

Dan_Shade · January 27, 2009, 07:04:09 AM

fishpharmer,

Why not do your cutting and ciphering before renting the welder? you'll get more bang for your buck that way.

fishpharmer · January 27, 2009, 04:57:18 PM

I borrowed the welder and I bought the rachet thing after I got the welder. I didn't even know what kinda scrap I had that would work. I usually work at least 15 hours a day and I didn't sit down and cry because I didn't have what I wanted when I wanted it. I got it done. I got $29 dollars in the rachet and some fuel and time. I was glad to have some time doing what I wanted to get done.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

But I agree that would be best to figure that stuff before hand.

I do appreciate comments and suggestions. I just spent the day moving fish. Now I am going to my sons basketball game and I will feed cows and horses when I get home. 8)

WH_Conley · January 27, 2009, 06:20:19 PM

I have built a lot of stuff that couldn't be prefabed, just have to stick a piece up and go from there, fitting each piece as you go. Especially when you just have an idea in your head and no prints.

Dan_Shade · January 27, 2009, 06:42:28 PM

Oh, I've done that many times myself. However, when time is money, sometimes it pays to figure it out ahead of time, then execute it in a timely fashion :-)

james · January 27, 2009, 07:20:54 PM

Quote from: Dan_Shade on January 27, 2009, 06:42:28 PM
Oh, I've done that many times myself. However, when time is money, sometimes it pays to figure it out ahead of time, then execute it in a timely fashion :-)

yup when I try to weld things that's what i usually do- execute (kill) it :- :'( :'(
james

Dan_Shade · January 27, 2009, 07:34:12 PM

yeah, I chose my words carefully ;)

backwoods sawyer · January 27, 2009, 09:22:54 PM

Quote from: Dan_Shade on January 27, 2009, 06:42:28 PM
then execute it in a timely fashion :-)

Well at least it is done in a timely fashion. Most things I build do not have a blue print for them either, just a rough hand drawn draft. Takes more time to draw up a full fledged drawing, and the as built will always be different, so why not save time and paper and just get it done. The result is the same.