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Stacking wedges in felling tree

Started by Kenzen, November 11, 2015, 06:33:25 PM

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Kenzen

I was wanting to use stacking wedges in helping fell a tree.  Have heard that one can either plunge cut above or below your felling cut and put wedges in the plunge cut such in as the pic.  So any advise in best way of doing this

 

beenthere

Looks like it might work, but they would be hard to hit individually to drive them in.
south central Wisconsin
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Autocar

I just stack two wedges on top of each other and drive them into the cut if one dosen't lift it enough. Iam not sure how your way will help but not a expert on that type of lifting.
Bill

CCC4

Thats a new one on me for sure. I don't see the advantage. I will stack them like Autocar suggested but I can't get my head around the 4 wedges. Looks to me like if you had a bad back lean you were wedgeing against that those 4 essentially kerfs would work against themselves on lifting. I am curious to hear what other people have to say, it's interesting for sure.

It looks from the pic that your back cut is minimal and you will run out of lift. What kind of face is in that cut?

Maine372

been there, done that. its a pain but it does work.

the easier method is this - drive one wedge all the way. cut a slice about the thickness of the butt end of the wedge from something small, like 3-4in. use that as a spacer and drive the second wedge. rinse and repeat as needed.

Jeff

Kenzen, is that your photo or did you lift it from another website?
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Ezekiel 22:30

june

sorry i never saw that . i use for big threes two wedges on the sides  and a thicker iron wedge on the back and it always work for me.

or push it with the skidder :D

SFires

Looks to me that the amount of "lift" each wedge could make would be limited by a plunge cut off me if that makes any sense to anyone. Seems a shallow cross cut would be better to allow more lift  but I guess that could also possible cause a chunk to break out the back side.  Curious to see how it works. Let u know how it goes if you try it
A man can always use more tools, more space,more wood, and a whole lot more time.

redprospector

I don't see the practicality of it. Why not just drive in 1 wedge to get a little lift, and then stack up a couple more in the same cut if needed. That should give about 2 1/2" of lift. If that isn't enough there are lots of other things that can be done without boring 3 slots in a stump.
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

John Mc

Quote from: Maine372 on November 11, 2015, 07:32:51 PM
the easier method is this - drive one wedge all the way. cut a slice about the thickness of the butt end of the wedge from something small, like 3-4in. use that as a spacer and drive the second wedge. rinse and repeat as needed.

That's how I do it. Driving the second wedge on top of the cookie frees up the first wedge. If the second wedge doesn't tip it over, cut another thicker cookie to slip into the gap, and pound the first wedge in on top of that.

Another benefit: a wedge on top of a cookie is far less likely to spit back out of the back cut than two wedges stacked on top of each other.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Peter Drouin

Never seen a thing like that.
And by the time you had all the wedges in I would have the tree on the ground.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Spartan

Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 11, 2015, 10:18:30 PM
Never seen a thing like that.
And by the time you had all the wedges in I would have the tree on the ground.

And the next one too!

SineWave

Bailey's "rifled" falling wedges are nice for stacking. The "rifling" keeps them stacked by keeping them from squirming out...

loggerman1959

I think that's over complicating things . Put two wedges together , sandwich  a little sawdust in between for stickiness , and drive them into the back of the tree . If that don't work use that big john deere wedge and push it over .

BradMarks

East and West agree!  Loggerman's solution of sawdust for stacking wedges works, without bringing into play the hardness of the wedge. But, use two of the same type.

treeslayer2003

good tip on the saw chips, i'll try that. normally what i do is start three side by side but only drive the two outer ones, then when i stack the middle they can't slip side ways.

how can ya push a tree heavier than the skidder?

SineWave

Quote from: treeslayer2003 on November 13, 2015, 04:02:28 PMhow can ya push a tree heavier than the skidder?

Gears / leverage / mechanical advantage?

How can a 16# sledge with a 2 ounce wedge push over a 2-ton tree?

You're not trying to lift the tree, just tilt it. Half the tree is being "lifted" but the other half is being lowered.

OH logger

if you stack the two wedges at a 90 degree angle they don't pop out very often at all. pound one then the other and repeat
john

thecfarm

I have used 6 inch wooden wedges made from a dead white maple. My Father and me did not want to flatten out a bunch of small trees so I pounded about 8-10 wedges for a good half hour. I can still hear my Father swearing at that tree and wondering why the DanG thing did not just tip over.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

GAB

Quote from: SineWave on November 13, 2015, 06:27:58 PM
Quote from: treeslayer2003 on November 13, 2015, 04:02:28 PMhow can ya push a tree heavier than the skidder?

Gears / leverage / mechanical advantage?


I think you should add hydraulics to your list.
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

treeslayer2003

Quote from: SineWave on November 13, 2015, 06:27:58 PM
Quote from: treeslayer2003 on November 13, 2015, 04:02:28 PMhow can ya push a tree heavier than the skidder?

Gears / leverage / mechanical advantage?

How can a 16# sledge with a 2 ounce wedge push over a 2-ton tree?

You're not trying to lift the tree, just tilt it. Half the tree is being "lifted" but the other half is being lowered.
two ton? i was thinking more along the lines of 5+ton trees with heavy lean. it takes a big skidder to push them.

John Mc

Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 11, 2015, 10:18:30 PM
Never seen a thing like that.
And by the time you had all the wedges in I would have the tree on the ground.

I'd be interested in hearing your technique, particularly if you have one that's quicker that doesn't involve heavy equipment.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Pine Ridge

I do it the same way Ohlogger described, drive one wedge in all the way, if the trees still standing stack two more like an X , drive them in alternately. Wear your forestry helmet and pull the visor down when your pounding wedges, when they spit out they have alot of force behind them.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

Peter Drouin

Quote from: John Mc on November 13, 2015, 10:45:39 PM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 11, 2015, 10:18:30 PM
Never seen a thing like that.
And by the time you had all the wedges in I would have the tree on the ground.

I'd be interested in hearing your technique, particularly if you have one that's quicker that doesn't involve heavy equipment.



I use steel wedges and with a wire feed welder I put a line of weld on the 2 faces and the thing will not pop out.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

CCC4

This thread is nearing the point of an argument. I hate to see that happen actually. The cut is very odd, not meant to be a production cut...actually I don't see where it would be used for anything than novelty just so you said you could do it I guess. It looks a it serves zero purpose.

A far a techniques on getting a tree down in a faster manner than the one posted by the OP...just about any cut will apply there. By the time you mess around with the kerfing involved and placeing the wedges, I would assume you are looking at a 6 to 7 minute ordeal. On a normal basis I will fall 4 to 6 trees in that amount of time and use wedges when needed. Thats all fine, but I am paid production and I have no choice but run and gun when I have 2 skidders on me at all times.

Like I said earlier, it seems to be a novelty cut...it is interesting...glad it was shown and shared here for review and I am gonna leave it like that.  :)

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