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Clearing Saws

Started by lxskllr, March 18, 2019, 03:52:12 PM

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Allar

Firewood & Chainsaw videos: Firewood Warrior - YouTube

John Mc

Quote from: Allar on April 22, 2019, 03:21:12 PM
What about birch?
Around my area, we have
Black Birch (Betula lenta), also known as Sweet Birch
Yellow Birch (Betula alleghaniensis)
White Birch (Betula papyrifera) also known as Paper Birch
and Gray Birch (Betula populifolia)

White Birch is generally what most people in my area think of if you just say "Birch". Some confuse Gray Birch with White Birch, since they can look similar. (Gray Birch has tightly adhering bark, where White Birch peels off easily in strips.)

On the firewood scale (which is a decent proxy for density of the wood)

  • Black Birch is primo stuff: on par with White Oak and the various Hickories
  • Yellow Birch is a small step down: similar to Red Oak, a bit more dense than White Ash
  • White and Gray Birch are another step down (White beating out Gray) - similar density and heat content to Red Maple, but still a big step up from Aspen/Poplar (some of our of our softwoods beat Aspen significantly for heat content)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Woodcutter_Mo

A good heavy duty trimmer or clearing saw comes in real handy. I have an FS90 and use it with a fair assortment of brush blades, it does a good job but would like to get a slightly more powerful model eventually. For me a brush cutter doesn't hurt my back as much apposed to clearing brush with a chainsaw. And they're (atleast the model I have) very easy on fuel. 

 My favorite blades are: the Stihl "Brush Knife" 3 edged blade for heavy grass and small diameter brush like wild multiflora rose and buck brush
 The Stihl "chisel tooth" saw blade for brush and saplings up to a couple inches in diameter.
 And I now have a Forester chainsaw tooth blade(has semi chisel chainsaw cutter teeth riveted to the blade) which is working good, doesn't bind up in cutting saplings as much due to it's thicker kerf and cutter to plate clearance. Time will tell how it holds up but I really like it so far for cutting thick diameter brush and saplings up to 3". It's not great for grass though. 
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

lxskllr

I got about an hour in with the maxi blade today. It works *really* nice cutting stems and saplings. It's kind of mediocre breaking down the sticker bushes, and the blade got jammed a lot with stuff getting stuck between the blade and the guard. I'll have to spend more time with it, but I think it's my second favorite next to the tripoint. If I were only cutting saplings, it would be the blade to use. I don't care for the 80 tooth blade at all. I'll use it til it's worn out, but it won't be replaced. So far the JB Weld's holding the handlebars. Fingers crossed  :^)

lxskllr

Maxi blade is out. It's kinda like a chainsaw. Works great when sharp, and virtually useless dull. I hit a couple rocks, and it wouldn't cut after that. Sharpening it wasn't a problem, but adding the jamming issue, and the stuff I'm cutting, I switched back to the tripoint. I'm still considering a shredder blade. I'm thinking I have enough horsepower to run it as long as I'm reasonable regarding my target. I won't be tearing down saplings like the video above, but sticker bushes shouldn't be too hard on the unit.


Got another 3.5 hours in today. That seems to be about my limit. That work really kills me. Fighting with vines, getting tangled, and doing a lot of manhandling of the machine... I'm using a lot arm muscle to swing it around. It's also a little demotivating to see green stuff coming up from the piles I previously cut. I miss some vines, and don't see them til the ones I cut turn brown. Everything also looks like a disaster zone. Brush and saplings laying everywhere. Hopefully, once the hard stuff's done, it'll just be a matter of hitting spots here and there to keep the junk down til it dies. Maybe someone else can pick it up with a string trimmer.


Plus side, my JB Weld is holding up. Minus, is I lost two of the screws I locktited in. I may have to start buying screws by the case  :^D  I'll try it again, and if I lose them again, I guess I'll have to get the heavy hold formula. I wasn't sure which to get when I was buying. I didn't want a hassle when I have to remove the shield, but maybe the regular isn't strong enough. Still gettin' it, and the machine's about 48% paid off. I'll be happy if I make it into the profit zone, even if only by a smidge  :^)

John Mc

As you've found, the Maxi blade stinks at grassy-type stuff, and is mediocre at brushy things like multiflora rose. However, you just can't beat a Maxi for saplings (about 1" and up). As you use it more, you'll develop some techniques for keeping it out of the rocks.

You can try a tri-point blade to beat a sapling to death, but the bigger and harder wood it is, the worse a tri-point blade works, and the more you are abusing your equipment trying to make do with one. A maxi isn't magic. It shouldn't be surprising that it won't cut after you hit a single rock, let alone a couple of them. Fortunately, they are quick and easy to sharpen.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

lxskllr

Problem is I can't see the rocks til I'm into them. I was on the island today, and I can't even see the top bank in some cases. It's just vines on top of vines on top of stickers. Almost fell down the slope a few times, and of course my reaction is to grab the handlebars tighter to steady myself. Flapping my arms to fly out would be as effective  :^D

SwampDonkey

When we are thinning rocky ground, we have to do what is called double cuts. Balsam fir and red spruce saplings have green limbs to the ground and you can't see rocks, it's a solid green. And then it becomes like pitching hay out of the way sometimes because limbs grow into limbs of others. :D So we cut high then cut down lower. You ain't seen rocks until you thinned in Deersdale, Pokiok or McAdam in New Brunswick. :D

Your saw binds more than a pro model since you haven't the torque to clear the guard in that viny stuff. I have thinned thick osier dogwoods before and that is like going through grape vines. I just swing back and forth with the FS560. Need sharp in that or the stems just bounce off.

Shoving that saw into the ground and hanging on is often a third leg. :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Woodcutter_Mo

 Yea rocks and also metal t-posts and rebar stakes are hard on blades. What I do alot of times is put the tri point brush knife blade on and go through and thin out the smaller stuff to where I can see the ground better first because that blade is much more forgiving when it comes to rocks and such. Then I go back through with the chisel tooth blades to get the larger brush. I usually keep a few spare blades in my box so I can switch out if I do dull the blade. After several hundred hours of practice, occasionally I do hit a rock here and there  :D
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

John Mc

That strategy of cutting higher first, and then come back and cut low when you can see better is what I do when cutting in areas where hitting rocks, other debris, or uneven ground is a concern.

IF I had two machines, I might use Woodcutter_Mo's strategy of changing blades. However, if I recall, changing blades also requires changing the blade guard on my brush saw, which involves more time and removing & replacing 4 small bolts - which I'm sure I'd lose, so I don't often change styles of blades in the field.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Woodcutter_Mo

Quote from: John Mc on April 25, 2019, 08:35:55 AM
That strategy of cutting higher first, and then come back and cut low when you can see better is what I do when cutting in areas where hitting rocks, other debris, or uneven ground is a concern.

IF I had two machines, I might use Woodcutter_Mo's strategy of changing blades. However, if I recall, changing blades also requires changing the blade guard on my brush saw, which involves more time and removing & replacing 4 small bolts - which I'm sure I'd lose, so I don't often change styles of blades in the field.
That's true, some blades won't fit with certain guards. It's not super practical but instead of changing out the guard itself, I have a second gear head with the different style guard. My main reasoning is that I don't want to take the guards on and off so much that the screws start coming loose when I am working. 
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

lxskllr

Five more hours til the machine's paid off, and I'm not sure it'll make it  :^D  On the subject of guards, I broke one the metal brackets today, and the guard itself is cracked. It's also got a bunch of vibration now, and feels like there may be slop in the driveshaft. I'll be switching back to the maxi blade, and hopefully that'll smooth things out some.

What goes bad on these units? Is a driveshaft something that gets replaced? Gear head?

John Mc

The gear head takes a beating if you are trying to cut down hard saplings with something like the 3 pointed blade
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

lxskllr

Is the gear head something you use til it breaks, or do I want to preemptively replace it?

John Mc

Quote from: lxskllr on April 29, 2019, 09:37:48 PM
Is the gear head something you use til it breaks, or do I want to preemptively replace it?
I've never broken one. On a relatively new machine, if that really is the source of your vibration problem (and not just an out-of-balance blade), you either have a saw that is undersized for what you are doing, or you are using that 3-pointed blade on stems is was not intended to deal with.
If it's relatively new, you may be able to get a warranty repair.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Allar

Don't forget to grease the gear head once in a while.
I managed to break the guard on mine the first day/hour :D
Firewood & Chainsaw videos: Firewood Warrior - YouTube

lxskllr

Grease schedule is at 25hrs. I was thinking of doing it yesterday, but I want to see if the vibration settles out first. Hoping it's just a messed up blade. I have 19hrs, and 19L of fuel in it so far.

Inaotherlife

Think I need a machete.

lxskllr


hatman-nz

have both a still fs35. and a 58 cc echo  
the big echo. is. ok  in thick going   alot more power but. don't like the guard that come with it too light. and more suited  to line trimming   tends to get tangled up 
smaller still  better. guard on it. and lighter to use all day    
 

zimraphail

I still use my little 450 Jonsereds I bought new in 1983. I picked up a echo timberwolf two years ago and liking that saw allot! But I scored a mint condition Jonsereds 625 last week and when my new chains get here think im gonna love that saw! It didnt bog in hard cherry even with a dull totaly used up chain! To me a 45 cc class saw is perfect for most light clearing ? Im no prffesional though so Im in no hurry!

lxskllr

I was contemplating just buying a new gear head. I figured it would be $100-$120 for the whole assembly, and that was figuring in the 'screw you for wanting to buy parts' tax. They actually want twice that amount. That's 40% of the whole machine, or 66% of what I paid for my cs400  D^:


I put the maxi blade on today, but didn't have a chance to run it. There was grease on top of my tripoint blade when I took it off. Maybe the seal is starting to leak. I'll give it a good inspection before I use it again, and grease it up. If it halfway behaves, I'm just gonna keep running it. If it gets bad, I'll decide between a warranty claim, replacing the whole gear head, or just buying parts. I need to add up the prices of all the individual parts. If it isn't significantly more than a whole unit, I may try part replacement after inspecting the guts. I don't have precision machining/measuring tools, so it would be eyeballing and guessing, and I don't like chasing problems like that.

Inaotherlife

Quote from: lxskllr on April 30, 2019, 01:00:40 PM
Quote from: Inaotherlife on April 30, 2019, 12:29:38 PM
Think I need a machete.
AFAIK, this is the best available for mixed use(briars/wood)...
Amazon.com : Ontario Knife Company 8521 Ontario Orange D-Handle Heavy Duty Machete 22-1/2" Fixed Blade Plain Edge : Sports & Outdoors
That does look nice. Especially the D-handle.
I usually just try and run stuff over with the riding mower. 
But got a few tight spots. Just not enough for a clearing saw or even the expense of a brush cutter.

lxskllr

Quote from: lxskllr on April 29, 2019, 08:16:15 PM
Five more hours til the machine's paid off, and I'm not sure it'll make it  :^D 
Didn't make it at 2 hours left. I took the end apart, but left the gear head assembled. The gear head feels pretty reasonable to me. I think some stuff came loose in the main tube, and if I didn't need one before, I do now after playing with it. It has at least 4 rubber spacers in the tube, with a simple metal 'bearing' inside each one, and the drive shaft runs in those. When I took the driveshaft out, one of the metal bearings just fell out. I didn't know what I was dealing with, so I've got it all compacted pretty good trying to shove the bits out with the driveshaft. They don't look like replaceable parts, and it would be pretty tricky getting them into position anyway. Looks like I'll be getting a new tube at ~$90, and hopefully that'll fix my vibration issue.

John Mc

I'm guessing you are too late for warranty service now that you've taken it all apart?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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