Eaton Axles

Spartan · May 28, 2016, 10:12:13 AM

Anyone worked on older eaton axles before?
My old TJ450 has W-5128 axles and trying to find any info on them is like trying to find an extensive physical description of the Loch Ness Monster.
It's like they never existed.

I have a pinion leak I want to fix.
I have a parts breakdown in my manual so I was able to get the part number for the seal, and called several people who either gave me a shoulder shrug or did not even bother to call back. I finally found a part number match on forestryparts.com but there was no phone number to call to verify and no one answered my email.

So I ordered the seal anyway. It was only 7.50.
I looks like the same diameter and all but the picture in my book looks different and I can't figure out how the seal I got will actually work in my pinion housing after looking at the machine. pn 8416010
I really don't want to tear it apart to get the original seal out and then be stuck losing hundreds of dollars a day while the machine sits broken down and I'm trying to find a seal. It would be cheaper for me to just have to put in a couple gallons a week or so.

Also there is supposed to be a thrust washer and some cap that goes over the seal behind the yoke in the parts breakdown, and there is a item number in the diagram for the cap but no description or part number in the parts list. go figure. mines all crushed and loose.

Anyone ever worked on them before?

Also if someone had specs, or a specs resource, or any other resource for that matter on that axle that would be great.
Thanks
Brian

Spartan · May 28, 2016, 10:35:48 AM

Here's the seal

Here's the exploded view of parts book

Comments?

xalexjx · May 28, 2016, 01:22:00 PM

do you have a s/n for the machine? if so pm me and ill get you a number to call

Spartan · May 28, 2016, 06:55:53 PM

Sent you a PM

Neilo · May 28, 2016, 10:42:16 PM

I replaced my pinion seal on a 3128. However I had a nos seal to use. I can tell you that it looks like the parts diagram, not your seal. But your seal may fit, just harder to push in.

The seal is quick and simple to do. The pinion nut will be super tight.

I guess that you might want a speedy sleeve as well. In fact you may get away with the old seal and a speedy sleeve if you are worried about pulling the old seal and the new one not fitting.

Neilo

Spartan · May 29, 2016, 10:23:25 AM

What is a speedy sleeve?

Spartan · May 29, 2016, 10:47:54 AM

# 41 is the part in the diagram that is undefined and no part number.

It's kind of like a cap. Mine on my machine is all loose and just hanging there, bent and crushed too.
Makes me wonder if someone replaced the seal once and got a different type seal that was not the same. like from a parts store or something.

the seal I have looks like it installs backward from the one in the diagram. If it installs the way I think it does, the blue flange on the seal shell would be facing out so the cap (undefined part) would seat in the flange (that's my guess), but if it does that then the garter spring on the oil seal and the lip will face out from the oil. not used to seeing it that way, maybe that is the way it is supposed to be but I thought the garter spring and lip were usually supposed to face the inside for oil retention?

lewis · May 29, 2016, 03:25:55 PM

I would think it should be a double lipped seal to also keep dirt out.I always use a speedy sleeve when a pinyon seal is changed

bushmechanic · May 29, 2016, 04:14:22 PM

Spartan , #41 is just a dust cover that's there to keep junk out from the lip of the seal. You need to just pull the yoke off the end of the pinion and knock out the old seal and install the new one. That seal you have is an aftermarket one, it installs as all do with the spring on the lip towards the oil side. You should fix the dust cover and re-weld it back on the yoke. good luck.

Spartan · May 29, 2016, 04:34:08 PM

Thanks guys
Seems like it will be an interesting fit because the garter spring faces in toward the blue flange
I will have to look at the pinion housing a little better.

Bandmill Bandit · May 29, 2016, 08:14:37 PM

Quote from: Spartan on May 29, 2016, 10:23:25 AM
What is a speedy sleeve?

Hey spartan this link SKF SPEEDI-SLEEVE new generation - SKF.com give you the info you need on a speedy sleeve and their use. in most situations where they are required they save time and money and work real good. just have to install with care and make sure you do indeed need it.

Also the seal should be a buna type double lipped seal for that application.

Looking at the picture of the seal and knowing diffs as well as I do, that seal does NOT look to be the correct seal BUT i would need more info from you to help you find the right one. That seal Does not look like any pinion seal I have ever seen and I have changed 100s of them.

Neilo · May 29, 2016, 09:27:24 PM

Install it the way Bushmechanic said, larger diameter blue section enters housing first. Your busted dust cover will go over the smaller section of the seal when the yoke is installed. I would still have a speedy sleeve on hand.

The factory seal is easy to install due to the shape of the metal in the seal, but I can see how your new seal would fit.

The eaton seals are heaps easier to do than the rockwell, eaton installs from the outside.

Neilo

oldseabee · May 29, 2016, 10:37:29 PM

Speedy sleeve: Over time the seal will wear a groove in the shaft, used to be that the groove was deep enough that the shaft would have to be replaced or built up and reground. the speedy sleeve is a thin walled tube that is pressed or glued to the shaft to give a new smooth surface for the seal to run on. may require a slightly over sized seal from standard otherwise the standard seal will just be a little tighter. If there is room a spacer washer can be installed behind the seal to move the wear area enough to give the seal a new wear area on the shaft.

Spartan · May 29, 2016, 11:26:35 PM

gotcha guys
Thanks

I'll look a little harder with the new info on tuesday and if I do need a different seal I will get in touch with you Bandmill Bandit