Things I have learned about swingmills

[brdmkr]

That would be my profile.  Sorry to hear you have done the same.  Trouble is, I will likely do it again.  Metal detectors just don't find them all.

[bad_boards]

12 years of professional firefighting tells me using sawduct in the ways you suggest is a major bad idea , and a building code violation

find a local horse farmer, i did , and they come and haul off all my sawdust

be well

[solodan]

Part of this problem was the leading edge being too low, (digging), but I think I have played with it enough to eleminate this problem.

Nate, you do want your leading edge just a hair lower, so that the far side of your blade is not dragging in the wood. What you should get from this is a cross hatch pattern and just a very faint ridge at the leading edge. I need to adjust mine cause the ridge has got a bit too deep on 8" passes.
Instead of screwing a slab or board to the partially millied log, screw a scrap piece to the end of the partially milled log to act as a block. This will prevent the board to be resawn from sliding forward, and the remaining wood left to the right side of the log will prevent it from sliding sideways. Then just cut through your scrap piece like its not even there. 

[Nate Surveyor]

Thanks Mr. Solo Dan.

Often I don'd even have an edge left, so a screwed on board on the left side of the log, sticking up would serve nicely. When you double cut, you want it to be as close to even on both sides as you can get it.

Sawdust.
I have 6 kids, (New boy born last wk) and the kids LOVE the sawdust. I have a small 4-wheeler trailer. I have a big plastic snow shovel. I load it with sawdust, and dump the stuff on a small hill, and the kids play trucks in it, and roll in it, and come in with sawdust in their hair all the time. Works great!

I call them sawdust bunnies. Works great! Gotta get some pics.  ;D

N

[Firebass]

I got my first full day of milling in today with my new homemade swinger.   8)   Now since I've never sawed a stick of lumber from any sawmill, so my learning curve is quite huge.  But for the grandest thing I learned today is LOG DOGS make a funny sound when you saw them   Other than that my day was a total success.  I look forward to many more and it gets me out of the machine shop.

Firebass

[Nate Surveyor]

Something else I have learned is to add a small block of wood to the log bunk on the RIGHT side of the log, so it won't TURN as you remove boards from the left side. This works pretty good. I really would prefer some ALUMINUM log dogs, as they would also help prevent sliding. (On a Peterson, you typically work from left to right)

Another thing I have learned is to SHARPEN the corners of the cut outs or notches. (and clean any left over bark from the last log). This allows the corners to dig just slightly into the log sawn, and it is LESS prone to shift. Log dogs are sometimes necessary for SMALL logs, without enough weight to hold them still.

Also, I have learned to work the throttle, so that it idles, while I remove the cut board.

So many logs, so little time! Arkansas has trees.

Another thing I did is take the chain saw, and cut out a notch in the log bunker, that me to drop a 3/4" wide, x 5" long x 2.5" tall piece of hard oak into the notch. This allows me to RAISE either end of the log, to adjust for TAPER. The notch is parallel with the bunker, and perpendicular to the direction of sawing. This is working pretty well. It allows about 1/2" lift when installed. You never know which end the butt of log will be. ( I don't like to turn logs around... solo milling and all!)

We also have quite a bit of SWEET GUM. What all uses are there for sweet gum?


Nate

[brdmkr]

We also have quite a bit of SWEET GUM. What all uses are there for sweet gum?


Nate

Nate,

Do a search for sweetgum.  Tom has a stool that he made from sweetgum that is spectacular!  He has me looking for a big SG log!

[Tome]

I haven't sawn with my ATS for about 16 months because of health reasons but I'm about ready to try it again.  My question is how many of you swingers cut most of your boards horizonally instead of vertically?  I have cut both ways but I prefer the horizonal method because I can't seem to keep my mill from jumping up and down in an 8 inch vertical cut.  I have had at times good success with it but for the most part it becomes aggravating and slow going so I just cut horizonal for the most part.

[brdmkr]

I prefer to cut vertical, but I try to cut whatever will give me the product that I am after.  Lately, I have been cutting alot of SYP.  I try to take off horizontal boards until I can cut vertical such that the center board will have the pith dead center.  If you want to box the heart, that works too.  I have had my mill bounce in the vertical in hardwood, but generally I can stop it by slowing down in the vertical. 

[DanG]

FIREBASS! Wow, that's a tremendous accomplishment, and you got the ol' "sawing the dogs" monkey off yer back at the same time! :D  Congratulations on getting your mill up and running.  It just amazes me that someone with NO sawing experience can build a working sawmill from scratch, and make boards with it.  You da Man, and I'm a fan! 8) 8) 8)

[Firebass]

FIREBASS! Wow, that's a tremendous accomplishment, and you got the ol' "sawing the dogs" monkey off yer back at the same time! :D  Congratulations on getting your mill up and running.  It just amazes me that someone with NO sawing experience can build a working sawmill from scratch, and make boards with it.  You da Man, and I'm a fan! 8) 8) 8)

Thanks for the encouragement!  I tell you,  the first half day was   white nuckles!  I'm starting to relax a bit now.  To tell you the truth if it wernt for you all, I would have been lost.  All those sawmill forum tips I keep going back and reading things I didnt understand at the time and find that they make perfect sence the second or third time.  Now I got a pile of lumber, even got some 6x6 beams with the heart in the center 8)

Firebass

[Nate Surveyor]

I have also learned to listen to the blade, while pulling the saw towards me. If I pull more on the left (my left) side of the mill, then right side, I can usually tell if the blade is running "true" with the tracks. This adjustment (done with shim washers) is critical to getting uniform material from the Peterson Mill. Also, when properly adjusted, you should be pulling ONLY on the pull handle, and find NO tension either way at the end of the cut.

Also, when cutting short logs (8.5') this adjustment is LESS critical, but, when you start the LONG ones, and you find TENSION either way at the END of a 16.5' log, check the allignment. The blade acts like a PLANE, and slowly walks you either left or right.

IF you want perfect dimensioned lumber, you MUST get this right. Typical perfect is less than one MM error, from one end of board to the other. IF you are consistently getting tapered boards, (with deep vertical cuts), look which way the blade is "planeing", or plowing, and forcing a crooked cut. Also, worn out mill wheels will contribute to the problem.

N

[Nate Surveyor]

I'm milling a bunch of bug killed southern yellow pine. I find that the logs are LIGHTER than average. Thus, they don't sit so still in the notches. They do fine, until the log is 3/4 done, then it shifts.

Any advice?

N

[jbeat]

Nate, If the log is shifting in the bunk, make sure it sits deep enough in the notch. If the bunk is moving and you have it stacked on another then drive a nail partly in on the left side of the log bunk to prevent it sliding. If you go slowly and finesse the blade through the wood you can cut down to the bunks without the log shifting or grabbing. Watch the log as you push horizontal. You'll be able to tell if the log is about to move then slow down. Also, the Peterson or Timber Pro log dogs are worth the investment. Good Luck

[Nate Surveyor]

OK, you have really got me to thinking (is this a good thing?) I could go to the hardware store, and buy some ALUMINUM nails, and drive them in, and cut the heads off.

they could populate the left edge of the notch....


HMMMMM

Thanks!

Nate