It occurred to me today that the Forestry section had a "Watcha cutting?" thread and the sawmill section has a "Watcha' sawing?" thread but over hear there is no "Watcha making?" thread.
I figured a thread for those 1 or 2 day projects that are not needing of an extended thread for all to follow the project's progress. Something for those shorter one-off builds. Shop gizmos, quick customer's requests or stock items. Maybe it won't go anywhere or maybe it will. It just seemed equitable to have something for the builders and makers in this forum.
As it happens, I really don't have anything to kick this off. But I did finally finish off a mushroom log drilling bench that has been hanging around in parts for over a month.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220520_140642311.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653090848)
And I also put the 7th coat of poly on a bench that will be delivered and installed Monday morning.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220520_182601618.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653090845)
The pint is that this thread might be a good place for small projects we often assume are not worth noting. I know a lot of us do these everyday. Jigs, tools fixtures, shop furniture builds, etc. As well as the "my neighbor needed this, so I made one" type things.
Lets see if it takes off.
Well, aside from the table I have a thread for, I am almost done building a chicken wire cage around my peach tree. It is 8x8x8 made with some 1x2 white oak and 4' wide chicken wire. The dang tree rats ate every last one of my peaches last year, so I am hoping this will stop them.
Last year (maybe the year before?) my son gave us an apple tree. I put up a 4' tall wire fence around it and the deer got in the yard and picked it clean. Poor thing was decimated. This spring I noticed it was leafing out pretty nice and had apparently recovered, so I extended the height of the fence to 7' or so. This tree is really looking nice now and gives me great pleasure as long as the deer stay off it. Fruit? I figure if we are lucky, maybe in 5 more years. Hope I live that long. :D
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Started putting battens on sawmill shed and built a sawbuck for hardwood slabs.
Yeah, it takes a while for the apple trees to start producing. The trees that I planted in our back yard about 5 years ago had some flowers on them for the first time this spring. I hope to get a few apples. Deer in our yard doesn't seem to be an issue, plus the the flowers were up about 7 or 8 feet in the trees.
I have been thinking about starting a similar thread, but I'll join this one
I decided to try to use some of my slabs for something other than firewood
I had a bunch of cherry and a little walnut so I thought wooden spoons would be something I could whittle while I watch my dogs run
This is the 3 I finished
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_55405B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653136920)
I had a friend ask me if I made any spurtles, I had to look it up, and then made these
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_55485B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653137100)
the cherry one I turned on the lathe pretty quickly, the Walnut I made like a paddle.
I want to try some bowls but have too many other projects started.
Tom is it only for purple projects or can we put other colors here as well?... :)
One of our soon to be Eagle scout moms is on the school board and wanted my help to make a charcuterie board for a retiring superintendent. putting on the block oil. It had the school logo on it and the years of service.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/8DEDFB85-A894-45D9-A9AA-FBA090155F5B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653140367)
here is a potting bench made from cedar milled from a beam from @Cardiodoc (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51488) and donated to @Jim Thomas (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51700) for his wife. coated with boiled linseed oil.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/35661604-5445-4DF8-8936-CB3B496A63DA.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653140522)
These projects are brown, sorry Tom! :D :D :D
The projects all look good guys.
Making a desktop for my daughter.
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Green ash, air dried, no biscuits.
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My projects all have a coin epoxied into them somewhere inconspicuous.
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Installed on the electric stand-up legs and frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/E4D2A4BA-1C34-4430-A44B-B2348DF04DA0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653168957)
She's all set.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/BF5F55CA-7B1E-40C7-A41B-A6C3B1B5CE6B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653171449)
Since it is the off season for hunting I decided to make myself another deer blind/shooting house. I had saved up my first cut, bark on slabs and figured they would be perfect camouflage. They are! I got it up and went back to work on the inside and now I can't find it. ::) :D
Boy, everybody is busy! Adries, really nice desk, I like the wire feedthrough slot, neat idea and better than a hole I think.
Doc, I don't care what color stuff is, but that 'brown' potting table looks like it may prefer to identify as orange. :D It's pretty though. Is that white cedar or red?
Howard I do hope you find your blind...someday. ;D :D
Made this door for a Little Free Library that was vandalized.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/55962/IMG_7562.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653178399)
Love that ash, Andries.
Good stuff guys.
I finished that extension table i've been working on today. Customer will pick it up tomorrow. Even though I have a thread about that, I'm gonna post a pic here. Sorry, Tom, its not purple.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_1661541197545533.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653169539)
It was an 8 x 14 inch beam a guy had and did not need, milled into 4/4 boards. a western cedar I assume, but no real info. whatever the box stores order in. sawed easy and smelled great.
I am working on a plastic bin storage shelf for the wife.
I am using air dried spruce. It is very pitchy. so I had to stop a few times and diesel treat the table to get the slabs to slide again. Then I had an idea. I used a sheet of wax paper and a bunch of binder clips to make the bed slippery. it actually worked pretty amazing. Unfortunately the paper did not last that long but long enough to make a big difference.
I originally had it covering all 3 parts of the table but as it started to tear it ended up in the cutters getting shredded and there was a considerable pile of sawdust building up under it on the infeed side.
I ended up just putting it on the infeed table and it worked like a charm.
Pictures are taken after sending through 9 - 70" long boards about 4 times.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20220521_164605.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653180101)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20220521_164734.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653180103)
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This made cleanup quite a bit easier to!!!
Interesting. I wouldn't have thought to use that.
I just welded up this dolly to help me move some big logs around the property. It still needs a tow ring to move it at the same time as my log arch.
I had some leftover metal from building the log arch for my trailer and a stub axle and hubs sitting on a shelf. Picked up the tires and rims from craigslist for free.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/67554/FF__3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653182241)
You guys do some nice work....
Whipped up this Bar Table a couple weeks ago. Used a Spalted, Live Edge Beech Slab for the top, and fabbed the Base. I took it to the large 3-day Flea Market to sell it, but no Takers. I did sell 7 of my Art pieces, though. I'll probably list it on Marketplace.....
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2481.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653220971)
Great Post, Tom!
Steve
Olcowhand, I really like that bar table. Not too big and not to small. Just right.
Built a coffee table for a Lady out of wormy pecan. The table is planked, that is the top edge of all the boards that are glued up for the top and shelf have a small 45° chamfer to highlight the individual boards to give it the old timey plank look. I did not turn the legs, got them from Osborne Wood Products who make a large line of all types of legs from many hardwood species.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_4425.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653221332)
The breadboard is pegged with walnut pegs. The legs are hickory which works since pecan is a hickory.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_4460.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653221990)
Thats a great little table Danny. My wife doesn't like coffee tables, so we don't have one. She doesn't like coffee either.
Rustic,
I made a rear 2 wheel dolly similar to yours. I use a ratchet strap around the log to attach it to the log and lift the log with my log arch. Acts like a rear axle on a pulp wood or log truck.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/Rear_view_of_log_dolly.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1437419599)
Good luck with yours.
I made something like this too. Mine is a piece of 2" tube with axle hubs in the ends and golf cart tires on it. I don't use it often, but its nice to not skid the log on the ground. I can pick up one end of the log with the loader and put the axle underneath. Then I can pick up the other end with the 3 point and pull it like a trailer.
Donuts count? :)
Just finished frying up a double batch of buttermilk cake donuts and a double batch of chocolate walnut crunch cake donuts.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220522_212258-baking-buttermilk-oldfashinedbuttermilk-walnutcrunch.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653265542)
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To keep in the theme of wood, I did skid 2 cords of logs to the processor this afternoon.
Of course donuts count. That's like asking if bacon counts.
Tomorrow I will start building a treehouse of sorts for one of my customers. This will be a 12' x 12' deck 8' tall built around a tree, but not attached to said tree. It will have two ladders going up to it and railing made of hog panels and wood.
Nice things you all are making.
Not much doing here. Finishing some things off so I can start on some new things coming up. Friday afternoon I had some time, so I finished assembling a Loginator for stock. I have another all painted and ready to assemble but I will leave that in pieces because it takes a lot less room.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220520_140648447.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653301559)
I have an order of mushroom logs due this week so of course I picked Saturday, the hottest day of the year so far to do that. ;D Fortunately it was only 35 logs for a workshop and Bill and his 5 y/o daughter came out in the gator to help drag brush and load a little. But it was still a 3 t-shirt and 2 hat day. I had the logs done by noon and I also collected 2 bags of hardwood chips for mushroom beds.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220522_092410961.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653301564)
I did other chores the rest of that day, took a shower and a nap before we went out to dinner because it was so hot.
Yesterday I got the trailer queued up and got Bill to stop by with his little helper and help me get that work bench on the trailer. After they left I did a little extra work on a weak spot I found in the top, then strapped it all down, loaded installation tools and patio blocks and tarped the whole thing over against the forecast rain in the evening. We never really got the rain, the front split right before it got to us.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220522_120858408.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653301568)
Today is cooler which is great. I will yank that tarp off, hitch up the trailer and go install the bench about 20 miles from here, then drive another few miles to deliver the logs at the retreat where they are doing their event.
Next up I have to make a couple of picnic tables with the RiteLeg legs. These will be slabs and we have to run them through the slabmizer then get them here for the finish work and build. We also have an order for 3" thick, 24"wide l/e slabs for a fella to build a 32' bar with, so I have to get on that also. We have the log pulled already.
Today is another day.
Quote from: jimbarry on May 22, 2022, 08:26:26 PM
Donuts count? :)
Yes, I had to look and see if you were close enough for me to ride over.😂
Heck yeah donuts count! Those surely look good to me!
Here's another stretch from the thread title: Not so much what I made as what I delivered/installed.
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And the 'installed' part is even a stretch. This is in an outdoor classroom/workshop area and I was prepared to set 4 patio blocks to level it up on. But after we set the inoculation systems up over a month ago, there was a comment from one of the interested parties that we did not leave enough room to mow around them. Considering that and a few other issues we decided on a temp install to make it functional and then after they run a workshop figure out how the workflow works out and make adjustments before setting blocks. Also, we had both forgotten how much slope there was in the ground and I did not have enough block for a proper job. So the 4 blocks went under 2 legs to bring it up to level.
Since I was at the farm and we then had to go to another location to drop off the logs for a weekend 'mushroom retreat' I offered to transport the clients material at the same time. The trailer was empty, so why not? We loaded up and although the second site was just 1 mile, line of site, from where we were, we had to drive around the mountain and it took 30 minutes to get there. That's life in the Catskills. :D
We off-loaded everything, settled paperwork, checked out the mushroom growth from the past 4 years of workshops (it's a bit early, but they are popp9ing up!) and I headed home and put all the tools away.
At least now I have room in the shop for the next thing and a couple more SGU's in the bank. Oh, and the client is "super happy" (his words, not mine).
Not really woodworking, but these are woodworking machines.
I built real mobile bases for a 24" bandsaw, and a drill press. Things they sell as "mobile bases" haven't impressed me as being really easily mobile. These are my two easiest to move machines now.
Rat Rod look will have to stay for a while, since I need to use these machines rather than spend time making them pretty. 6" casters under the bandsaw, and 4" for the drill press.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35437/IMG_3970.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653338084)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35437/IMG_3966.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653338128)
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Those bases are really nice. I have been needing to do something like that for a very long time.
Design criteria was keeping the machines close to the floor, and easy to move. Metal was almost all from a scrap pile here when we bought this place years ago.
Here are the casters I used for the 24" bandsaw. They have one foot lever to lock, and another one to release, so you never have to bend over, or pull one up without proper shoes.
Amazon.com: 6" x 2" Heavy Duty Metal CASTERS with Poly Tread - Set of 4 Wheels, 2 Fixed, 2 Swivel w/Brakes - Swivel Casters are Locking - Foghorn Construction : Industrial & Scientific (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5PT4YY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Other than overcoming the inertia of the big bandsaw, it's the easiest moving machine I have now.
On the drillpress, I put the fixed casters on the front so the locks would never be in the way.
For a planer, I like four swivel casters. When I'm running a batch of parts that require multiple passes, I just spin the planer around without having to handle the boards twice.
I've been trying to figure where to put the drill press in my new shop and now I think I know, it won't matter.
Tom , Thanks for the link. I started a thread about putting casters on my planer and those look like what I need. They are rated for 3500 lbs. There might be some copying go on 😁.
I got the posts up and most of the joists for the tree house today. I have to work tomorrow and thursday. I will go back Friday and get the floor boards on and hopefully start on the railing.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_359178739428387.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653440187)
I have been working, so making "money". 2 days, then 2 nights, then today in the past 6 days. 65 hours. :)
And in the meantime you make stuff like that potting table, which, apparently, I now need to make for my wife. :D ;D
sawdust Jimmy @Jim Thomas (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51700) made it with wood I gave him from Doc Hagley @Cardiodoc (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51488) the cardiologist. I will let them know they are in trouble. :) :) :)
FFOTS- That picture made me think of when a board is attached to something through the rungs of a ladder... How 'ya going to get that tree out now! :D
I've got a deadline and a speed-build! Normally, I take my sweet, sweet time (read- procrastinate) on projects. My sister is going on a camping trip in her tiny, little Mini-Winney, which has a stove top but otherwise very little counter space in a few days.
She asked if I could make a chopping block and cover for the stove. I said yes but then she proceeded to not send me any measurements for it until she was doing a practice run with the camper in my back yard, this past Sunday night. She's leaving this coming up Sunday and I expect to see her Saturday afternoon. Thusly, I started last night, got my pieces ripped/jointed/planed and mostly glued last night, but I had to leave three or four pieces glued separately, so they'd fit through the planer, then I'll glue that chunk on the other chunk. I realized just a bit ago that my daughter has her 8th grade graduation this evening, so very little time to work on it, and tomorrow is golf night, so that's out. I'll have a couple hours tonight when I get home, then a few hours Friday night and Saturday morning... We'll see how it goes. This is the beginning. Granted, I'll be removing about 4 inches on the sides (left and right in the picture) but this is some heavy, dense wood. I'm thinking I'll rout out the backside a bit but I've never really done such a thing, so I'll have to figure out a jig and all that crap, unless I can do it with the slab flattener jig...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/cutbrd.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653490476)
That's a pin oak. I have no need to get it out of the treehouse.
This is Marla, our med staff office champion. this place would not run without her. she is getting married to her long-time sweetheart and leaving for Europe in 2 days. this is their wedding gift. engraved glasses, a holder, and wine made from Dr. Lairmore's vineyard here in Hutchnson.
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FFOTS Are the piers on gravel and how deep? Good start for the tree house.
aigheadish, could be the board is not hollowed for this trip given time constraints. If it needs to be raised from the cook top add some temporary rails under it.
DOC the gift is a great idea and well executed. Good idea for other gift occasions too!
The time constraints are a lie that my son pointed out to me yesterday. I forgot that I'm taking off of work tomorrow, so I have a fair amount of time. I initially was going to go the route of raised rails, until a felt how heavy the thing is. Some hollowing out is in order. My nemesis is the router. I don't have tons of experience with them and they make me nervous, not just for my life but for my projects also. I'm hoping to make a suitable jig to just be able to throw the router in whatever direction and it cuts out what is not needed. We'll see. Thanks for the idea!
Quote from: aigheadish on May 26, 2022, 01:13:37 PMI'm hoping to make a suitable jig to just be able to throw the router in whatever direction and it cuts out what is not needed. We'll see.
I would think you will need an "adjustable" jig. For the inside edge of the cutout I would go with a 3/4" radius bit. Then clear the field with the biggest flat bottom bit you have. Make a plywood "frame" that puts the biggest flat bottom bit you have no closer than 3/4" from the desired cutout. Then make a sub-frame (or just some sticks) that will get the 3/4" round nose to hit your outside mark.
Cut with the big bit first, making the final pass just a 32nd or maybe a 16th to clean up any burn marks ;) Then, install the spacer sticks and do the round nose (cove) bit. If you use just sticks, you can take them out and plane off a 32nd or 16th to do final pass if needed.
Your plywood frame is going to be bigger than your cover board so you will have to have a backer board and cleats to hold the cover board and big enough to raise up your plywood frame to be above the cover board. The cleats should be the same thickness or a little shy of your cover board thickness. Hope that makes sense.
Then for the finishing touch, use a round over bit with a bearing guide to finish the final edge at the surface.
Thanks John! It kind of makes sense and I plan to watch a few videos on router basics again. I have an idea of how it should work but I want to take advantage of other's experience, not to mention just brushing up.
aig, you said you had a router sled? clamp the cover to the table then clamp stop blocks to the router sled and the table. that is the easiest and fastest adjustable pocketing jig ever.
Samandothers, the piers are 24" deep and 8" diameter poured concrete. No gravel. Since its not attached to a house, I'm not worried about if it is affected by freezing a little in the winter.
Put together one of the Raised Garden Boxes discussed in another thread, which I'll also post in- because I used more lumber than others' have.
I wanted to do something with some of the Red Pine I've been Milling, and I wanted to see how these Box's hold up. I filled mine with dirt, and it's very sturdy. My lovely bride is going to plant Cabbage and Broccoli in it, and wants a longer, shallower one for Strawberries. I intend to sell these eventually....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2552.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653651110)
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Tank thinks it's okay; nothing to write home about (which is good, because he doesn't have a pencil & paper- and he's already home...).
Steve
Nor does he have an opposable thumb! running-doggy :) thumbs-up
He dos have a sagittal crest, like some people that I know that still drag their knuckles when they walk, barely bipedal :).
Quote from: doc henderson on May 27, 2022, 09:35:35 AMNor does he have an opposable thumb!
Neither does my Cowboy friend "Lefty", who learned the wrong way to take a Dally on a Saddle horn, but his handwriting didn't change much after the learning event......
I'm pretty sure router sled would have been a much easier setup, but in the name of not wanting to clean off my whole bench I went this route. I'm about to fire her up and see how it goes. I now see the benefits of adjustable rails, and I can see a jig like that in my future. It must be nice to have lots of space because I sure don't. It probably doesn't help that I seemingly like to have about 5 projects going at once.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20220527_193657.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653694569)
I have to confess I am a little confused. Are you intending to rout out the entire bottom except for the border areas? If that is the case, wouldn't it be easier and prettier if you made an outside border of wider stock to lift it up?
What am I missing?
No, you are right. I screwed up. Also, did you guys know that routing out the bottom of something like this makes a fair amount of sawdust? Heh. I should have cleaned off the entire bench.
I'm trying to route out an inch deep into the bottom of the cutting board to fit over the stove iny sisters camper. My initial plan was to just glue the borders an inch down on the side of the whole thing, then I thought that that wouldn't look as nice as if I routed out the middle. Now, I've run into the trouble of my router not having a level spot to ride as I get away from the jig. I didn't think of that part at all.
My router sled is huge, and my bench is only capable of handling it one long-wise, but I've got my miter saw and other crap on it. I'm now assuming the only way this project is getting done is to clean off the bench and bust out the sled.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20220527_201744.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653697562)
I'm thinking I may be able to use the rails I've got for this jig to run the sled on... I'll see how that goes. I'm learning! (slowly)
Edit again- also, this cutting board is almost 2" thick and heavy, I was hoping to lighten it up a bit. That sounds like an excuse for my ignorance, but I really did think about that.
I got the floor on the treehouse and some of the posts for the railing up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_382894770560272.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653698074)
Bill, you have the making of a Taj-ma-treehouse there. Everything you make looks so square and straight. Puts me to shame. Nice work.
AIG, OK now I get it. No, you didn't screw up. You just made the required training exercise for such projects come to life for you. :D ;D When it was my turn many years ago, I think I had to go through that exercise more than once before I got it. Don't feel bad, I can't say we all do it, but there dang sure are a lot of us who have done the same thing, and many who claim they haven't are liars or have short memories. :D ;D
You'll figure it out and you'll make it work. If you are like me, next time, you will do it different.
Thanks for the nice words, Tom.
I've now found my sled is too thick to get as deep as I need to be. The router doesn't plunge enough. It's not a plunge router but I think you know what I mean.
Well, if you have that bit out as far as it can go and still can't make it, is there another way you can get the depth? How much are you coming up short?
Nicest lookin deer blind I ever saw!
I'm looking at another piece of wood that may work with some clamping. Nothing says "friendly neighbor" like routing at 10pm!
I'll likely just tell my sister it'll be ready next time. I'm ready for bourbon.
Here's what Maddie and I whipped up:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/AFB0E298-5288-4B05-B9EE-E35A1819BF4D.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653704920)
Maddie can take it or leave it, but she kinda likes the look of olcowhand's buddy "Tank". Saggital crest and all. 😉
Hate to admit it but slab rack I posted a picture of a few days ago couldn't stand the stress.I had it loaded pretty heavy and my poor design caused screws to shear off.Glad I wasn't around when it happened.Built a new one out of white oak,braced it good with heavy lag screws.Lesson learned :laugh:(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/99F8C106-057D-45B4-8DCB-FF4072281FF3.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653705376)
Here is a storage bench I just completed for a neighbor. I practiced draw boring, working with and sharpening chisels and hand planes, and installing threaded inserts. I learned a bunch in the painfully slow process of making this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60433/20220527_084851.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653723513)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60433/20220527_085012.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653723510)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60433/20220527_085102.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653723510)
Very Nice!
Very well done, Sir!
"painfully slow" maybe, but well worth it - beautiful work!
Geez that is some nice piece of work! I wonder what does he store in it. I am noting lots of ventilation. Is that red cedar?
Well I was hesitant when I started this thread, but just a week in and it's 2 pages long already. Now I'm wondering if I should have called it "Watcha Makin' 2022?" because it looks like it may get overloaded by the end of the year.
I think we are seeing a lot of projects we wouldn't have seen otherwise and I think that's great. Keep it up!
Tom,
You know as the OP you can still go back and edit and even change the title if you think it is appropriate. ;)
@olcowhand (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37942) I would like to see some of your silver sculpture. @Wlmedley (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=58995) I made one like that but had a set of boards every 16 inches and it folded up to store. I used glue, nails and screw, but used bolts at the cross where it hinged.
Tom, I think it is fine, and if it gets too much posting, you can make a 23 at the end of the year. we used to stick our projects here and there or start a new thread, so I think this is good. We might see about putting a "color wheel" in tools so we or the poster can tell what color their project actually is. :) you know the first step in getting better is admitting when a person has a problem. :D :D :D
Doc Henderson you got me worried.Went back and drilled and bolted cross pieces on sawbuck. Thanks for the tip I don't mind building something once but I hate do overs.OGH glad you started this thread,very interesting.
do not worry. be sure and pay yourself for the R&D work. we all have done it and why we throw out lessons learned as we go. nails will pull out but not shear, screws will not pull out, but will shear. glue is glue, and makes things solid. tight bond 3 or construction adhesive in the tubes. mine is still together but the pine 2x4 stuff has rotted.
here are some pics. my goal was to make 16 inch wood stove wood from scraps. so 16 inch spaces. 4 foot tall folded up and 2 foot upper boards. this holds stuff in place even after making a few cuts. the boards can be 8 foot long and estimate the outer cuts. folds up for storage. this spent many winters outside and despite being painted, (not purple) it is gone and saved only for a pattern for the next one with improvements.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/CD827937-37A2-4621-B74A-3B2C851810B2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653771559)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/255A40E0-68B4-4ABA-B5E2-333ED2ED16B2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653771652)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/8E2017AA-D571-4771-9C41-5884462D8B16.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653771793)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/E0EC2B5A-345B-41FA-BB5D-982930E6C28B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653771924)
ps. I counter sunk the bolt head and nut end so i would not hit it with the saw, and used carriage bolts double nuts on the far end so they could be loose enough to pivot. used washers as well. it worked well.
Doc how well did it work with just legs on the ends instead of every bunk ? Would you do it like that again or would you put legs on all the bunks ?
It worked great. It sat more solid as it could flex a bit. I have rope to limit the splay. after the new wore off i think i put some 8 inch 10 foot logs on it and it did ok. kind of abused it. mostly it was for bark on flitches cut off logs at the sawmill. it is light enough to carry with one arm. I cut from the side without the top board, and you can see occasionally got into the back top board. It lasted prob. 5 years despite the abuse. had my kids paint it one year. need to make another. i now have the bigger one for 12 inch plus logs and heavy flitches. I think too many legs would make it tend to rock on uneven ground.
bucking up firewood in Firewood and Wood Heating (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=108109.msg1687265#msg1687265)
Quote from: doc henderson on May 28, 2022, 05:05:57 PMdespite being painted, (not purple)
Looks purple to me on my laptop...
Doc,thanks for the pictures.I my modify mine a bit.My stove takes 20 inch to 24" wood so wouldn't need as many uprights.
i will post when I make a new one. might use a hard wood. heavier but white oak or black locus would be more rot resistant. i could have put copper naphthenate on the legs.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_naphthenate
What is the purpose of the top backboard?
Wlmedley
Had a sawbuck similar to your rebuilt one, and to save picking up all the short lengths off the ground after bucking the slabs or poles, I placed it in the trailer.
Less bending over. No pics, but it lasted a few years. Folded up like Doc Henderson's.
stability.
If you run a 1x12 on each side below the X I think you'll get more stability and be rid of that kickback potential.
@aigheadish (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53516) if you poke the router up through a piece of plywood and tack strips to the ply that limit how far you can slide to create the border. It's upside down so you can't see but it would make that recess without "falling in". You might have to get some longer bits to get to the depth you want and I imagine some healthy holes in the ply to let the dust out. I'd take it in many light depth adjustments so it doesn't snatch and get away.
I made these ship type ladders for the treehouse today. They are a little too long and I will trim them down when I go to install them. The extra length will likely become handrail extensions into the upper level.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_1049753305923262.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653793068)
I can tell you have a mill and have hit nails. Making a treehouse without putting any nails in the tree ?. My ladders were all just slats nailed to the tree with the treehouses hanging from 60d spikes ;D
@doc henderson (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=41041) I'm glad you asked......
In the Month of May so far, I've moved 11 of my pieces; this number includes two pieces donated to local charities for Fund Raisers...
I've been working on new concepts, focusing the subject matter to target the many recreational activities folks pursue here in Northern Michigan.
Some Watersports Art has been well received:
This one sold right away during a big three day Flea Market, so I made another..
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2486.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653814737)
All sold out of these "PaddleBoarders....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2387.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653814931)
I added a Piece to my "Praying" line (First one sold right away, so I made another):
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2494.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653815038)
I started making these Business Card Holders, and they took right off with some local Business Folks:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2275.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653815764)
My Facebook Page has been getting quite a bit of traffic, and I'll be at two more Art Fairs this summer- One in the Soo, and one here in Cadillac...
Thanks for your interest.
Steve
Very creative on the silver ware.
Those business card holders are great Steve. I remember admiring your work at the roast last summer.
I suppose I could have nailed slats to the tree for climbing, but I doubt the people would pay me the thousands of dollars that I need them to for this thing.
That makes sense. I thought you were building it in your backyard for the grandkids. I looked into building something like that for the grandkids but after talking to our CEO found out if I put it on piers it's considered a permanent structure and I needed a permit along with inspections. Then they would tax it >:( . As long as it was hanging from the tree It's considered a temporary structure with no taxes so I just nailed a big pallet in the tree supported by channel iron with cleats to climb on. Lasted long enough for the grandkids to grow up.
Dead elm works beautiful. Screws and Paslode nailer go in and anchor well
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/7F844E2D-B4A2-467B-AD2E-FF263995C87B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653957255)
I finished the treehouse today with the help of my 15yo old son. He was a great help. Those ladders are heavy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_1152893648895267.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653957957)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_5356077221080752.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653957983)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_1082732912340175.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653958012)
This is the one I built for my kids about 5 years ago. It is 3 stories tall, well the stories are about 6' tall each. The front is made to look like a ships bow.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_497223602152473.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653958200)
Modified sawbuck a little bit.I think it will work okay now.Figured I would leave bottom slab intact until I get all the ones above it cut up
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/60128D89-8CEC-43DC-89D1-437D98901A1A.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653944098)
We made a pallet shed yesterday to get stuff out of my workshop.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220530_150032-pallet-shed-petrol.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653988661)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220531_060321-pallet-shed-petrol.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653988662)
Very nice, Jim; I might do something similar for my many fuel cans.....
I completed another Raised Garden Bed at my wife's request. This one is longer and shallower, for Strawberries. She has already installed occupants in both Beds.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2569.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654000335)
I need to build one for fuel and propane, and another for my bands that seem to take up room in the shop.
olcowhand- Those are incredible! If I remember I'll take a picture of the really sloppy dragonfly piece we bought at the flea market a few months back. It looks a mess compared to your fine art!
ffots- Well done on that tree house!
Don P- I'm between making a makeshift router table like you are mentioning, which would be handy to have around anyway, and a much smaller sled. Thanks for the tip!
That is a great idea and I wish I had thought of it. I want to build a wonky shed something like Jeff has at his place in Michigan. I want to get a lot of shovels, rakes, etc out of my garage. It never occurred to me to build it to be movable. Heck, maybe it can be a product line.
Quote from: doc henderson on May 31, 2022, 08:35:06 AM
I need to build one for fuel and propane, and another for my bands that seem to take up room in the shop.
That's the next one we are building @doc henderson (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=41041) . Same height and depth but twice as long. And likely a third one for the ride on mower and two push mowers, brush cutters and misc garden tools.
Quote from: aigheadish on May 31, 2022, 09:04:58 AMIf I remember I'll take a picture of the really sloppy dragonfly piece we bought at the flea market a few months back. It looks a mess compared to your fine art!
Thanks! I also make Dragonflies. I paint mine with a Greenish Ford touch up Paint, then a couple coats of a Metameric (Copper/ Green) Paint, then two coats of clear Lacquer. They have a neat translucent quality that people really like. My wife told me I was asking too much for them, so I lowered my price and they're "flying" out of inventory. I'll dig up a pic...
This is the one I got, not much pride in the workmanship and I paid in the neighborhood of 20 bucks. I assume yours are more valuable.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20220531_160146.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654027386)
Quote from: jimbarry on May 31, 2022, 11:43:24 AM
Quote from: doc henderson on May 31, 2022, 08:35:06 AM
I need to build one for fuel and propane, and another for my bands that seem to take up room in the shop.
That's the next one we are building @doc henderson (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=41041) . Same height and depth but twice as long. And likely a third one for the ride on mower and two push mowers, brush cutters and misc garden tools.
Random idea I just had....
Build the inside dimensions of the shed to fit the mower but make the outside dimensions big enough to put full height cabinets all the way around. then put doors on the outside to access all the tools in the cabinet walls.
Be the only way any sheds will ever be organized :) at least mine!
There was a local guy who liked to make art out of old spark plugs. He had motor bikes, chain saws, fishermen, men with jackhammers, etc.. and sold in local mom/pop store in Sebago ME.
I buy his airplane model, and it lived on my desk for a long time:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18492/IMG_2633.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654032615)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18492/IMG_2632.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654032553)
one of my favorite knickknacks
JJ
Jim I love those 'portable sheds'. I am going to file that away for a day when I have something with forks. If I had something now I'd be making lumber to build 2 or 3 of them right away. Boy could I use those!
Bill, love how the tree house came out. But I have to ask, shouldn't it be called a 'tree deck'? I mean, usually a tree house has some kind of roof, right? :D Still, we make what the client wants. Man, that's a lot of PT wood. Must have cost a tidy sum.
So I made something over the last day and a half. An old buddy was cleaning out and he gifted me with some ERC that probably cost a pretty penny but had a bunch of defects and lots of knots. I couldn't, in all fairness make and sell something from lumber that was given as a gift. Well the wife needs a potting bench and I saw the one Doc posted and that pretty much set the wheels in motion. It was a good way to use up the BF and keep the project at home as well as please the wife. I also used up the 1x4's of white cedar he gave me for some of the rails. And also, thanks twice Doc, that linseed oil really made a nice finish.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220531_155652744.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654032584)
You can see, this has lots of knots.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220531_155726709.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654032584)
At least I didn't have to go far to deliver and install it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220531_164407393.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654032590)
It looks considerably better than that rusty desk we have been using for ten years. I hated it after the first two years. The wife seems to think this is an improvement. I think she said 'pretty'.
it looks great and you get all the credit. ERC is a great rustic wood, and the more knots the better. my dad prob. said that about me and discipline. for a minor infraction, we got a single knuckle to the head.
Without walls or roof, it is appropriately referred to as a 'tree fort'. Geez, every 3rd grader knows this.
JJ
When she approached me about the tree house, fort thing she said that she had gotten a bid from some sort of fancy treehouse builder guy and right away she said that wasn't happening. She then asked me to build this as a next best thing. I don't normally do this kind of job, but she has been a good repeat customer for my built in bookcase business, so I agreed to do it. After I add the slide that she ordered to go on one side, she will have a little over $6000 in this thing and she is happy with that.
Yeah, I think 'fort' is the right name. Having the high ground in a water balloon fight is the way to go.
Well looking at the wood in that. I would say a pretty good chunk of that was in materials.
I gotta start raising my prices. ;D
Yeah, with the price of wood these days, gone are the days of doubling the materials and calling it a quote.
I used to frame a house for that, and thought i was in high cotton :D
@aigheadish (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53516) I wouldn't buy it for one project, unless I could really distract the wife. Google overarm pin router. That is how we would do that in a large shop, then you can see what you are doing. I've seen shop built ones in DIY woodworking magazines a time or two. I have fallen into that trap of building a nice router jig for some one off job, and then its too nice to burn and hangs from the rafters like an albatross till the big auction :D
Actually, there's a router poked thru a half sheet of ply leaned up in the walkway in the barn. Well, ya never know.
Pin routers look pretty sweet, kind of like a cnc? I think I have a table saw coming from my parents, at some point, that has a much larger top than my small DeWalt saw, I wonder if, sometime in the future, I could work out a modular attachment for it and a router... I've got plenty of materials sitting around for the poor man's table router but I think the smaller sled may be more useful. I'm thinking a 2.5' wide one that's only 1/3-1/2" thick rather than a 4' wide one that's 3/4" thick. We'll see, since I missed the deadline of last Saturday for delivering the cutting board I have some time to sit and think on it.
Thanks for all the positive comments regarding my Art. Using Kitchen Ware as the medium has its own set of "Opportunities" (I'm branching out to include some scrap art but haven't completed anything yet). My latest piece is meant to depict the internal struggle most of us feel, when deciding to use the older, more traditional "by Hand" methods vs. "Mechanized". These struggles also occur in the Kitchen, so I thought I would use Kitchen Ware to depict this "Kitchen" struggle:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2549.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654082597)
....and I did find some Dragonfly pics:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_1453.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654082674)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_1451.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654082674)
Hope you all like it...
Steve
Steve, you are a true artisan.
For real. It took a minute of looking at the simplicity of the dragonfly to realize it's (spoiler!) a few butter knives. So pretty!
Thanks, Gents.
I've been a "Stick Man" sketch Artist for almost all of my Automotive career. So.... it's kind of easy to transition to this very simple "Sculpture" Art with Kitchen Ware. Not to give too much away, but that's how my "simple" mind works.
But I will say this: I thought the big Pay Day was going to be in the selling of this stuff. Since I've been displaying it, I've really come to appreciate the enthusiasm and joy it brings to folks. On a three day event, I get tons of great comments and miles of smiles.... Being called an "Artist" or "Artisan" intrinsically must mean that part of my fulfillment is the enjoyment it brings to others. I never realized that before, and it means a great deal to me. Thanks again.
Steve
Well that filled up rather quickly. Time to make another.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220531_184953-pallet-shed.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654094520)
I agree with the other cowhand, very nice work.
I've done a couple simple pieces, but nothing out of silverware. I made this dragonfly for my wife a few years ago, and the butterfly last year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_5673.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1654095010)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_3439.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1654095171)
Quote from: jimbarry on June 01, 2022, 10:42:37 AM
Well that filled up rather quickly. Time to make another.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220531_184953-pallet-shed.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654094520)
Jim,
How does one accumulate that many functioning fuel containers that still have all their caps, spouts and vents? I have a whole collection of ones without one or more of the needed accouterments....
Please share the wisdom and skill required to amass such fortune.
Yeah, what olcowhand said with all them pretty words. Obviously if it filled that fast, it was dearly needed.
I have one of the very heavy plastic old combi cans I would love to find caps OR spouts for, no soap. It's killing me not to be able to use that.
Not to mention any of the old "extremely dangerous" spouts of yesteryear that can be kept around to not make filling a tank nigh on impossible...
My son, who is capable of doing literally everything he tries backwards from how it normally gets done, went out to mow a couple weeks ago. The mower needed fuel so I told him to grab a red can and fill it up (he's watched me and has done it himself a few times). Minutes go by and I don't hear the mower. I try to nap on the couch and it's been like 15 minutes and I still didn't hear it. He finally fires her up and mows, puts the mower back in the barn, and comes in to tell me the gas can is broken. I ask if he did it right and what does that mean. He says yes (he's still learning that it's ok to not know what you are doing) and that it just poured really slowly. I knew immediately that he didn't engage the safety button that allows the fuel to really leave the can, instead he stood there for like 20 minutes while the fuel trickled out of the closed spout. Made me laugh pretty hard and he was amazed when I reminded him of the safety button to see how quickly the fuel flowed. We're convinced, sometimes, that really he's an evil genius who is just messing with everyone in his life.
Tom K- Those are sweet!
I'm going to build a "pallet shed" patterned after Jeff's whimsical shed in his back yard. It will at least hold my gas and diesel cans, plus garden type tools. I'm thinking 5' wide, 4' deep and maybe 7' tall at the peak. I should be able to pick it up empty and move it with my forks.
FFOTS, what FEL do you have? Your Kubota is 45hp, right? I would think you could pick up a 5x4 shed with everything in it.
I'm liking the idea of these small, portable sheds you guys are building and thinking of building a couple.
It's an LA680 on my L4200 which is indeed 45hp and you're probably right. I just don't expect to move the loaded shed, since moving it likely means I'm gonna use it for something else.
The LA680 has about a 1500 pound lift capacity.
Yeah, thats what I have gone by. 1500 lift.
I got a good start on the shed after milling logs for my neighbor this morning. The joists and skids are treated pine. The floor boards are honey locust. The walls are going to be white oak and eastern red cedar. Why do you ask...because thats what I have. I may not have enough sawn to finish, so I will have to saw some more white oak and cedar.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_954696171869520.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654292689)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_311879364484067.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654292712)
OH, I like that! You must be giving all your angle gages and protractors a good workout. All though it may appear you had a lot of beer to drink while you were working on it, I have the feeling that with all those oddball and opposing angles, the last thing you want is a beer, until the end of the day, and then...well, yeah.
Actually I think I had 2 beers while working on it. I just use my speed square to measure angles. There wasn't any fancy math going on, just guessing and seeing what looked good. The good thing is that this thing is supposed to look wonky, so I cut the angle as the tops of the corners and wherever those lines intersect will be the peak of the roof.
SO you are planning on a 14.2756" pitch? :D
Well, I ain't 'making' nothun today except maybe a memory or two. I went up to NYBHH's place to get some firewood logs we had cut last year and need to get gone. I did two runs today with the dump trailer and my youngest GS was at our house recuperating from a 2 day sore throat. He went along on the second run and Brandon was kind enough to take on a co-pilot when we were finishing up. He impressed me with his focus and attention to instructions. He did a good job. Maybe somebody needs to get this kid a machine so he can hone his skills?
Dylan Helping Grandpa get firewood. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/xlixWOQLiWY)
He looks like a natural.
Well, its good I made the shed portable, because Cindy doesn't like where I chose to build it, so it will be moved further from the house and garage, but closer to the sawmill. That will be good since I will be storing all the gas and diesel in there and probably at least my dull blades, if not my sharp ones too. I'm about out of material, so I need to saw some more cedar.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_3162790837303886.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654377428)
Great video of the grandson, Tom!
Made another pallet shed. 4x8ft this time. A space to store sawmill blades. Required 260 BF.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220604_164116-pallet-shed-4x8ft-doorsopen.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654381186)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220604_164036-pallet-shed-4x8ft.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654381186)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220604_112055-pallet-shed-4x8ft-jim.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654381186)
Jim, you're a machine at making these things.
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on June 04, 2022, 06:41:47 PM
Jim, you're a machine at making these things.
Takes two, the boss was with me for most of it. I got a 6x10 to make and probably two more 4x4's.
Hey Jim,
What type of wood do you use for those, and what nails do you feed into your framing nailer?
Steve
Quote from: olcowhand on June 05, 2022, 05:32:11 AM
Hey Jim,
What type of wood do you use for those, and what nails do you feed into your framing nailer?
Steve
Whatever boards are next to me ;D or in the lumber racks get used first. There's a few cants of white and black spruce too. Same with the nails, whatever is on the shelf, and for this one I used Duchesne 21º 2-3/8" spiral nails (not galvanized). Only because the galv one are $60 more per case of 2000 nails.
Done. On to the next thing on the to-do list.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220605_115547-sawmill-blade-shed.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654440788)
I'd suggest putting a low wattage light bulb in that band storage shed to help drive the humidity down.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on June 05, 2022, 11:56:38 AM
I'd suggest putting a low wattage light bulb in that band storage shed to help drive the humidity down.
Will monitor that for sure. After the sun gets on the boards and dries them out, there should be enough gaps. Always windy here. And if the gaps don't get big enough, well, nothing a chainsaw can't fix.
Finished this yesterday; My over-simplistic interpretation of an American classic. If you can recognize it, that means I did okay....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2607.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654691499)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2610.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654691499)
Steve
I'm seeing "End of the Trail". Even if I'm wrong, it's a nice piece of work.
Unmistakable as end of the trail. Remington would think that is cool! Fraser would like it too!
Also working on this for a Client; I still have to mount it on a base.....
Then maybe a Catcher.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2611.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654709624)
That guy is just eaten up with talent and creativity! Excellent pieces. Keep them coming.
Thanks, Howard.
You should post your puns in the Watcha Making thread. Oh wait....
In all honesty, I appreciate your wisdom and taste in my Art.
Just don't ask me to "spoon".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39486/Bible_book_shelf_-_Copy.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654816054)
We made this book shelf to replace the milk crate that held our Bibles. It is made from red oak from Indiana given to us years ago.
Very nice!
A special project... Take one of these:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20220611_104911.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654958753)
Turn it into one of these:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20220611_104921.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654958762)
And see where that takes us... To be continued, perhaps...
Progress. We'll see, gotta go. 4:05 hours for this pass.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20220611_210941.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654995997)
The plot thickens! I have NO idea what I am looking at. ;D
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on June 12, 2022, 12:09:51 AM
The plot thickens! I have NO idea what I am looking at. ;D
Looks like he is 3D printing on that piece of pine board he posted previously.
I think Jim meant laser printing.
aigheadish has said 4 hours for that pass, so I figured it was 3D. Looking at it again, it does appear laser printed.
Haha! The intrigue is working! It shall be a mystery other than it is, indeed, laser.
Sadly, my poor man's laser takes a long time depending on what is happening.
And you are going to make us all wait while you are off on a family adventure for a couple of weeks? That's a little cruel don't you think. You KNOW we don't have much of a collective attention span. :D
SQUIRREL!!!
May not have to wait that long...
Back deck on my son and daughter in law's house had a rickety gate and I was afraid my two year old grandson would run through it.Built new one out of white oak.I bet it weighs 50 pounds 😀.Ordered heavy duty hinges.I hope they hold up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/5E413694-05A1-4A8F-8CED-C8523732B05B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655339486)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/930B4A8A-B2D8-4C81-A271-DC6B722DDA7D.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655339375)
One of my former students used some oak slabs one of our customers purchased to build this table using Ritelegs. The customers seem to be very pleased with it. I thought he did a great job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/6763C9E0-7ECD-4E1E-9945-16D5B23B8F45.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655349596)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/C58651E8-0BB0-4BFD-BC52-F673E7B8F4BE.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655349592)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/A54137E9-2F51-406C-88A9-A7F088C61595.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655349560)
I also like the "half" benches on each side. smiley_thumbsup
The wood is beautiful. And so are the Deb legs.
That's pretty much what I am quoting for this new client, but in Red Oak. Same legs and just 2 of the half benches. That one came out beautiful. What wood is that?
Thank you for the kind comments. The top was from a laurel or water oak (red oaks) from my neighbor's place. It was damaged in a storm and I helped him take it down. I was going to burn the log until I saw the bacterial stain and the color when I was cutting it into lengths my tractor could handle. The 49" benches should make it less cumbersome for folks to get to and away from the table.
@Old Greenhorn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42103) I forgot to take a picture of the mystery project when it was complete... If you care to solve the mystery that's cool, but no big deal if you don't, it sounds like you are busy.
To solve the mystery for other readers- I lasered Tom's "Woodsman Forest Products" logo on a board. It is similar to one @doc henderson (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=41041) made for him, I realized a bit late.
It was interesting to compare the work of the 2 very different quality lasers. Doc's does some really neat detail work that I don't think mine is capable of, and I'm assuming it does it much, much faster than mine. While I can't justify the cost of a better laser it was pretty neat to see why I might consider it if I were making money with one.
Will do! My bad, I forgot to do the same , sorry. Right after you guys departed I got right back into the swing with long days and several projects and it slipped my mind entirely. I'll fix that today.
As they say "No pictures, it didn't happen'. :D
OK, lets get that oversite fixed here and now. This is the mystery project that Aigheadish started a few weeks ago:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220630_093606130.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656639316)
It came out beautiful and I am blessed to have it. Between the ones that Doc made for me and this I now have tow contrast schemes. Austin wasn't sure of the wood species and neither am I, but I am thinking poplar.
At any rate, it's pretty and I am happy to have it. So thank you Austin!
Yes sir! I'm wondering if it's just some pine/fir, Tom? It seemed pretty soft but I don't know.
My laser, an Ortur, has a few common, but strange, issues. As seen in the "W" there were two spots the laser just didn't fire upon. Looking at the preview, prior to starting, everything looked fine and full but when the project started it just skipped that spot, several times. I've seen others have similar problems but hadn't experienced them myself until now.
The difference in wood and grain structure is very interesting. Some stuff, presumably harder woods seem to burn away nicely and leave a consistent depth and texture to the burn. Then some other stuff, like the above, doesn't burn through the rings of the grain the same, giving the wavy texture as seen. Doc's, however, had, in the "Woodsman" part had almost a leathery texture to it that is really neat.
Yeah, Doc has a nice Epilog. I used to run one in a previous life. They work nice. As for the little nit that bothers you so much, I was thinking of trying to locate my wood burning pencil (which I have not used since I was 12) and just touching up those two lines. I don't think a soldering gun will do it.
That will have to wait for a bit though. Lots of stuff to get done in the coming days. ;D
That looks nice!!!
I wanted to the do the same Tom, but I was running out of time and afraid to mess it up further. Beware there is some spray poly on there if you go that route.
Thanks thecfarm!
It looks good to my eyes so I'd leave it alone but then I'm not seeing it in person. If you want an excuse for leaving it alone it is rumored that the Amish women always make a minor "mistake" on their quilts because only God is perfect and they aren't competing with God. I don't know if that is true but I've used that logic a time or so when someone points out an imperfection in my handiwork.
I know the shakers would do that in their furniture, same reason. I always have something I wish my eyes would not see in my work.
As far as that sign goes, it's just fine! But Austin pointed it out when he gave to me and it's a lot like pointing out a pimple on a pretty girl. After somebody says something, you can't stop noticing it. It has been a hard lesson for me not to point out the flaws in my work, but I am getting there. Let the client decide if they like it.
That picnic table i a case in point, I said nothing when Bill ad his wife looked it over for a while (with lots of "WOWS"). After a bit Bill noticed a spot and I just said 'you want me to fix it?' "Nope" he said real quick, "leave it as is, it's a dang picnic table not the last supper table".
When I was doing design work with integrated systems sometimes a tech or a customer would call up and say "There's a bug, it does that when I want it to do that." I would just say, "That's not a bug, it's a feature and we designed that in special." Shut them up, almost every time.
It looks great. That is the trouble with high standards. As we refine our craft, our standards go up as well. At some point you have to be satisfied. It is also how we get better. We are ALL getting better. we know where every little defect or ding is. Perfect never gets finished. God bless rustic!
usflag
Haha! I contemplated not mentioning it but I couldn't not see it! I'll say I went the Amish route, I certainly have the beard for it.
I had not heard about the Amish or Shakers deliberately leaving a minor mistake on their quilts or other work but the Muslims do the same thing on their rugs and such for the same reason from what I hear.
On the prayer rug my SIL brought back that is a favorite dog hangout, if you study the pattern, I think they were making sure not to offend God :D
Well, we can put this one to bed. We delivered the picnic table today ( @Tam-i-am (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1461) Here's the photos you wanted, and there are others on my FB page). Not the ideal delivery setting for photos, so I may have a few extra's up here. The clients are still grading and landscaping their place, which is new. We wound up walking it on to my utility trailer and it just fit and we could just lift it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220703_131720873.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656887566)
The clients got a bit more than they were promised.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220703_133512498.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656887573)
I can't repeat the words they used here, but it was fairly obvious they were a bit blown away.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220703_133522062.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656887574)
The husband was funny. When we asked where they wanted it, they picked a temporary spot and Bill said he would move the trailer. The Husband said, "Oh, we can just carry it there, it's only 30 feet or so". Bill and I looked at each other and smiled. Bill moved the trailer then we let the husband take a corner. Again, I can't type the words he used, but it was pretty funny. He had no idea.
I was there to explain care and feeding, how it was finished, and explain some of the features in the wood such as the ray fleck.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220703_093938787.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656887566)
I wish I had another week on this one to get the finish a lot better, I am none too happy with that. They think it's great. What I am really happy abut is how super those RiteLegs make it look. They are super nice! I have another set of galvanized in the shop for another build order, but after that I am only buying them in black powder coat. They just look too dang elegant in that gloss black. I'd call them sexy, but I don't know if that's allowed these days.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220703_133712722.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656887579)
These clients were over the moon and say they have a couple of neighbors that will want one. We'll see. Right now, one project at a time is good enough for me. ;D I have two more tables to build yet. I am glad this one is done and I could finally sweep out the shop. :D
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on July 03, 2022, 06:47:36 PM
Well, we can put this one to bed. We delivered the picnic table today ( @Tam-i-am (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1461) Here's the photos you wanted, and there are others on my FB page). ...
You know, I just looked the photos on FB and then come here to see the same. I never clued in until just now you are one and the same. :D
Either that, or some bozo out there stole my design! :D :D :D :)
Another looks good job!!!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/55256/IMG_0879.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1656896832)
Red Elm desk top for my daughter. I confess to not doing the glue up my cabinet maker cow client who has the big nice equipment did the final flattening and the glue line rip. I had it to within an 1/8 inch when I handed it off. I can't wait to put the Tung oil on this. Tom that picnic table is awesome.
The picnic table is no where near as awesome as that desk is going to be! If your anxious, wipe it down with mineral oil and see how it looks, that will give you a clue. I use that as a cleaner before I apply my finish anyway. Sweet!
Man! Fine looking table you've made there, Tom! Great job!
A little hall table. Just a exercise in design, cherry legs with red oak. Walnut inlay.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_3705.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1657036011)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_3699.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1657036011)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_3716.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1657036011)
Beautiful, and now some of us want to know how you made the inlays. :D Photos?
Once again, you do amazingly well designed, elegant, and beautiful work.
Beautiful piece. Now we need the inlay secrets.
Phenomenal work. I agree with the others. I want to see pictures of the process with explanations of each step.
Larry, you have opened the proverbial Pandora's box. The shoe fits so you are going to have to wear it, Sir.
popcorn_smiley popcorn_smiley
Well at least WDH is not calling me stoolman!
To cut out the table top I first made a template out of 1/4" MDF hardboard. I two sided taped my template to the oak top and cut it out with a router pattern bit. Than to cut the slot for the inlay I moved the template a couple inches from the edge. I followed the template with a router using a 1/8" bit to cut the slot. I route .100 or so deep, not critical. Repeat four times for each edge.
I also cut the curves on the aprons with a template and router the same as the top. To cut the inlay slots I used a different method. I cut a new template out of 1" pine and clamped it to a router table. Than I dropped the apron onto the 1/8" bit and pushed it through. Think of it as using a fence with a curve in it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_E0575.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1657066341)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_E0581.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1657066342)
For the legs I cut the slot by dropping them on the cutter in a router table with a straight fence.
For the walnut inlay strips I want them .005" over sized which makes them .130". Than I sand one edge a couple of times and they fit tightly in my 1/8" router slot.
Three methods to make them. First is totally on the table saw. Made lots of them years ago with this method but its hard to hold such close tolerance and I had lots of rejects. Second way is to run them through the planer. I can easily keep them in tolerance but the down side is it takes two or three test strips to get the thickness exactly right. Third way is to put them through my wide belt sander. It will take them to .130" easily and hold that all day long. That's how I make all of them these days.
Now that I have a few walnut strips that measure .130" by 2" plus or minus. I take that strip back to the table saw and rip them to .100+" which is my depth measurement. Not critical because when I glue the inlay in it will be proud of the surface and gets sanded flush. When I rip small pieces like this I use a 40 tooth thin kerf 7-1/4" blade on my 10" table saw with a zero clearance blade insert.
A friend was watching me cut the slots in the table top. He remarked if I made one small bobble or a whoops that it would be impossible to recover and the top would be firewood. My reply was "no guts, no glory". It does take a little practice to cut the inlay slots without booboo's but easy after you do it a few times.
Hope my exclamation makes sense. I didn't take many pictures when I made this but if ya have a question ask.
I found some inlay strips and took a picture.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_0660.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1657067999)
The five on the right are ready to use and the wide one is .130" thick and ready to be ripped .100"+ wide.
The taper on the legs is very nice.
OK Larry, I read your explanations and you make it sound simple. :D ;D I have two questions:
A) Since you are routing the slots blind, how do you get the start and stop points so perfect? Are you just using that witness mark on the guide/fence?
And
2) How are you trimming the lengths of inlay to match the slots so perfectly? Surely not by eye, right? Are they all the same, or is each one match separate?
These details are what makes this so pretty and elegant and what holds me back from attempting something on that level.
Larry I would love to see this as a new post so it doesn't get lost in this thread. Beautiful work and very nice method. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on July 06, 2022, 08:06:06 AM
OK Larry, I read your explanations and you make it sound simple. :D ;D I have two questions:
A) Since you are routing the slots blind, how do you get the start and stop points so perfect? Are you just using that witness mark on the guide/fence?
And
2) How are you trimming the lengths of inlay to match the slots so perfectly? Surely not by eye, right? Are they all the same, or is each one match separate?
These details are what makes this so pretty and elegant and what holds me back from attempting something on that level.
A) Yes, the witness mark aligns with a second witness mark on the apron.
B) I attach sticky back sandpaper from Klingspor to a block of wood. I use it like a file and round one end of the inlay to fit the slot. Put that end of the inlay in the slot gently. If I push it in hard I can't get it back out. Push the rest of the inlay in the slot, again gently until I get to the other end. Mark that end with a pencil mark. Remove the inlay and cut it 1/16" long. Round that end to the pencil mark. Put glue in the slot and put the inlay back in. Its such a tight fit I will have to tap it with a wood mallet to get it seated.
WDH, glad you noticed the taper on the legs. I only tapered two sides of each leg, the inside. The table was an exercise in design plus a couple of new techniques. I used a taper jig from Woodcraft to cut the leg tapers on the table saw for the first time. Worked ok. But......60 years ago I learned how to cut leg tapers in school shop class using a jointer. The jointer is way faster than the taper jig and lots easier. Their are videos on youtube of how to do it.
I do tapers with a taper jig on the tablesaw as well. Never did any on the jointer, will have to look into that.
I finally have a small project to add here. I built the chicken coop before last winter and I had never built the door to access the fenced in portion of the coop. Yesterday I straightened up some treated boards in the shop and built a door. Finished up mounting it around 9:30 last night. Happy Chickens = Happy Wife :D
Unintentional advertising for the chicken food
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49164/PXL_20220711_011419469.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1657543939)
Looks good.
When I had them critters, I would use that area for a compost pile. I would even go on the edge of the woods and pick up leaves and throw it in there.
Gotta keep them busy, just like kids!!!
Great looking coop DWyatt!
Not something I'm building....its a cabin my Dad is building. He does some pretty awesome work. He's been building cabins in eastern Kentucky for around 40 years. The knot in that post is about 3 ft wide.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64542/Resized_20220710_210115_10768134578756.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657590777)
The stair balusters are also very exciting!!! Your Dad does great work.
Quote from: Larry on July 11, 2022, 10:22:27 PM
The stair balusters are also very exciting!!! Your Dad does great work.
I dunno what others call the sticks he used as balusters, but we've always just called them "twisty sticks", haha, he's been using those as balusters for years. For those that havent seen them before, they're just young trees that had vines growing on them. After a few years of growing, the vine gets tight enough that the tree starts to grow around the vine...then we just strip off the bark, pull out the vine, and wham-o, twisty stick, haha.
Looks like your Dad collects what I call walking sticks when he's not building cabins. I have several laid back in storage among some diamond willow I bought on fleabay.
FWIW, the best actual hiking sticks I've ever run onto is the skeleton ribs of a Saguaro cactus. They are light, small and extremely strong and I got the idea from a bunch I saw for sale in an AZ tourist trap. Mine came from the desert and carried a long way by yours truly.
I just sawed some 2 1/2" thick EWP for my cabins stairway treads and stringers. Might be an idea to steal for my balusters.
I wonder how long it will be before some "helpful" guest tries to start a fire in that fireplace?
Doug in SW IA
Quote from: dougtrr2 on July 12, 2022, 08:12:37 AM
I wonder how long it will be before some "helpful" guest tries to start a fire in that fireplace?
Doug in SW IA
A 'wood' burning stove.
@Jim Thomas (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51700) had a little mesquite burning a hole in his pocket and made this bowl with a little real turquoise rock in some epoxy, tinted with Japan lamp black.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/3FFEA089-4352-4143-A7AC-968DB12B00F7.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657747254)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/B3E9A130-AB04-44BA-A5D3-F27EDE86E22E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657747266)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/48A0363B-4848-43AA-B813-5E4DB4E5B423.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657743699)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/59C2FA28-F04C-4E81-BEFE-936AF201A34A.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657743689)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/BD7E3346-FA38-48E9-B8F2-DEEE445BAE6C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657747290)
Pretty cool
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39486/Coffee_bar_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1657765069)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39486/Coffee_bar_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1657765119)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39486/Coffee_bar_3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1657765142)
I wanted to build a coffee bar in our church. A crew from Pittsfield, Illinois and my friend from Bardstown, KY have helped build it. Except for a couple 2x4's, this is all Wood Mizer wood. The red oak we made the countertops out of is from central Indiana and cut by an LT40. The pine siding we logged, milled, and planed here.
Definitely not the fanciest of projects.....My daughter and husband are building a new house and I volunteered to do a few things like put the shelves in the pantry, make a breakfast nook table with benches, build a 2" thick, 4' x 6' kitchen island top out of maple, put up a walnut fireplace mantle, and build box beams for the great room ceiling. The great room is 26 feet long, the cathedral ceiling is 9/12 pitch with the peak 16 feet from the floor. She wanted a white oak beam 6.5" x 8.5". A solid white oak beam this size and 26 feet long would be a difficult to saw and dry and install on a ceiling this high, so I am building a faux beam in three sections out of white oak. We will have to build a scaffold in the great room to install unless someone has a better idea.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/F6311820-2FB6-47DF-ABC1-B3814BF81423.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1658060355)
One of our son's and I made 6 of the exact same beams from 1x6 pcs that were 12' and a few inches long. I told him he was fortunate to find 12' plus walnut boards.
His are black walnut and I beveled the two lower edges with a hand router. I glued 2x4 glue blocks inside every few feet.
He had a bathroom contractor already there who trimmed to lengths & placed them on the ceilings of a dining, kitchen area for him.
I toted them from E KY to Knoxville, TN. Made a "skinny", long room look great. Took all my squeeze clamps to glues a couple of these up.
"Finishun a Commissun":
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2712.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1658607992)
....and the Back-side....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2715.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1658607992)
Steve
A simple wild cherry breadboard with my wife's favorite recipe on the backside. Got the new 10 watt Ortur laser that will cut 1/2" hardwood no problem and it only took 15 minutes to make. Tried Walrus oil and wax for my first time and that stuff is awesome. 2 coats oil then 2 coats wax and a nice finish that is food safe and not sticky like the mineral oil I used to use Now to try cutting wood hot plates for her next.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_1718.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1658680762)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_1699.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1658680763)
That version of the Ortur looks pretty neat!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/F181D295-9AB3-4453-95A5-41061E2F1A1E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1658747116)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/2D4BE2E3-399F-4364-A437-B40CF90A05E7.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1658747140)
this product has paraffin in the oil (mineral oil, no mystery). It dries nice and I like the natural finish.
Quote from: olcowhand on July 23, 2022, 04:28:47 PM"Finishun a Commissun":
You make nice "cutlery creations"!
A photo tip that might make the subject stand out better in the picture would be to put more distance between your subject and your backdrop and use a portrait setting on your camera, backing up and zooming in (lens zoom not digital) if you can. This will help blur your background and make your subject stand out better. Try a few different distances and settings and see the effect.
Doc, from the background, we would feel at home in each others shop!
yes. but I usually find what I need, unless I or someone else decided to "organize". My buddy sawdust Jimmy is always picking up wood off the floor to make segmented bowls.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/C3A3309B-3865-492F-A5F1-5BA7A36D68F1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1658755086)
a shot from my desk a few days back, sent to a friend who commented on the background of a pic I sent. :) It is kind of a one-man shop. 34 x 50.
" A cluttered shop is a sure sign of a creative mind." 👍
Not making anything lately. I did spend some time in the shop last weekend doing some cleaning, but I have a long way to go. I sanded a piece of red oak to make a little sign for a friend to gift to someone else. Sprayed it with laquer and then wife made the decals for it. Not much of a project. I do need to get it cleaned up so a larger project can be a possibiltiy.
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To touch on what Hilltop366 mentioned to olcowhand on the photos, if you haven't tried it and you have a decent, newer, phone some of them create an excellent bokah (that's what it's called right? When the background is blurry?) effect without much trying. I have a Samsung Note 20 Ultra or some cr@p that does really well with stuff like that.
My wife sews purses and sells them on Etsy, I'm all the time trying to get her to switch to using her phone for her photos rather than the real camera. I understand control is much better with a real camera and you likely can get much better pictures but phones nowadays can take some incredible shots and the workflow can be made much more reasonable. And sometimes you don't need ultra high resolution or quality for a 500x500 pixel photo.
Many of my pictures turn out like Firefighter's---with my feet in the background. ;D
another point I try to do is to move the camera to get the edge of the piece parallel to the frame of the shot. this gives better perspective. we all grew up using real cameras with the lens in the center. the phone has it to one end or corner. pics always look good to the guy who already knows what he is looking at. harder for another person to look at the pic and figure out what is going on with machines or projects.
FFs feet are to provide scale. do you where size 13 FFOS? :D :D :D
@olcowhand (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37942) I love your art. I love the concept of your background. many backgrounds are on the floor/table and as they go back, they roll up behind. some contrast or blurring may help your pieces "pop" a little more in the photo. keep up the good work.
Hey Doc, yer shop need serious attention ::)
Mine alternates between a mess and none.
Last few months mine is a staging area for my cabin build. Materials that don't like weather are piled near the big door.
My 2 1/2"x 12" EWP boards for my loft stairway are lying on sticks in a pile along one edge now with a box fan blowing. They anxiously await a building with a roof! meanwhile it's raining yet again, endlessly at that and scheduled for the entire rest of the week too. :(
We are blessed.
Universal sawdust/chip tote in progress. Quick chains will be added to clip on bottom of pallet forks to dump. Not looking for a semi dump but if I do back it up 😂. Working on a fine on/off screen top and extensions
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I like that idea. About the right size for me. Not sure I can get it dump well though. It would need to tip forward somehow. Maybe cut the frame out in front and graft on another tote bladder to give it a dump bin shape.
quick release chains to dump it.
I'm not catchin' on to the chain thing yet. I need some edumacashun on how that would work. And not get off the tractor.
Wouldn't be too difficult to turn the cage and tote into a slant front dump, but y'all are sounding like that wouldn't be necessary.
I use mine for firewood, but they can be dumped with forks depending on where you want to dump them. may be a mess if you get lots of rain and fill it with water. could stick a smart sack in the that can be lifted with forks and emptied out the bottom. your idea is great as it is, and you can work out the details.
The quick chain I'm referring to is basically a chain on each side attached to the base with a quick latch to put around the sides of pallet forks so it doesn't slide off or a ratchet strap might just work better
I was thinking anybody needing a little wagon to pull could do something similar and take the plastic liner out and cut the cage to the desired height and put a little wood reinforcement over the steel bottom
I was wondering if you meant my idea about dumping with quick release chains. if you hung the basket from the forks by 4 chains and had the 2 front chains connected using some type of quick release you could just pull a rope and release the front two point allowing it to dump.
May or may not work but I am all about not getting off the tractor!
these crates are very handy. I use them for firewood as mentioned. I have a small paint booth from the plastic insides from one. they have been given to farmers for feed bunks cut down. food grade would work for water or sap. they are meant as a one-time use, and one wrong move with a fork on a loaded one, and there is "bendage" and after a few mistakes, some pieces of tubing hanging off. two guys can tip one full of firewood (one guy if you are man or mad enough). 4 guys can load a full one back into the back of a truck or trailer. I often take firewood to campouts. be prepared. you do not want to run out. mine came with wax concrete sealer/retardant in them. they would have been crushed on the bottom of a hole otherwise. What will you be dumping into? maybe that will help us focus, if you even want to open that can of worms. ;) :D :)
we have nice sidewalks and use a pallet jack. you do not need that with the casters on the bottom.
Since I move mine with pallet forks on a tractor, I can vouch for weakness. Before I'd make a utility cart out of one I would make a metal frame to strengthen the corners the casters would be on. I got two short totes that held 2-4 D. Seems the half sized ones were the only way the farm service next town over could get it in bulk this spring. They would make a good little wagon.
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I thought I had posted a picture of this project here, this is a Red Elm desk top I built for our daughter. It's now installed in Manhattan where she is starting medical school. Just a picture of the joined slabs and the desk we put together this morning. :) The last picture is the view out the window beside her desk. She helped me pick out the wood, and finish the desk top and shelf.. It's been a busy couple days. I had hoped to squeeze a visit with Tom in this trip but we came from the New Jersey side and didn't budget enough time. Yes i feel a bit like a fish out of water in the city here. :)
Beautiful desk. She is a lucky gall and that desk will likely see some long nights ahead. ;D
I forgot you were up this week. Actually, getting up here from the NJ side is easier. From Manhattan it can take between 2.5 and 6 hours depending on time of day, route chosen, and lick of the draw. I feel like a fish out of water every time I even get near the place. We'll find a time that works, down the road I am sure. Looks like you will have more than a couple of trips north.
Best of luck to your gal!
look at all the nice friendly neighbors she has. she will do great. Most all the young people in NYC are from somewhere else, like Ks or Ne.
Thanks... I really hope so. There's a direct flight to Omaha from Newark so it's only a day away. I can't just run down to Omaha and swap out an alternator quick. Gonna be tough on dad....She's her mother's daughter she will be fine. Back to projects. :)
Very cool Nebraska! Nice job! I'm sure she will get some great use and it will be a nice conversation piece 👍
the desk is great!
Nebraska, it is a beautiful piece.
This tote is going to definitely need a screened top. Absolutely to much pressure coming out of the system. I planed and had absolutely nothing in this setup everything ended up outside of the container. This is where a air lock would be golden. For all the talk of mounting dust blowers outside because of noise. No need to! I've got two 5hp 220 Timberking blowers mounted up and six feet from my Woodmaster WM 4000 and the blowers are absolutely quiet. All the noise is outside !!
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Would a cyclone separator above the bin improve things? That's what I see on a lot of the medium sized commercial setups.
Air has to come out one way or another and it will carry lots of dust and chips.
I don't think its near big enough. Is their anyway you can somehow extend the pipes and just blow it out on the ground? Get rid of the your 90's and replace with sweeps or two 45's.
I agree Larry! I'm sure I've had a few chuckles from the big boys that are running their systems all day when they seen this little container 😂.
or mount a top bag from a dust collector to let the filtered air out. and a cyclone sounds good too.
Quote from: Nebraska on July 28, 2022, 05:15:46 PM
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I thought I had posted a picture of this project here, this is a Red Elm desk top I built for our daughter. It's now installed in Manhattan where she is starting medical school. Just a picture of the joined slabs and the desk we put together this morning. :) The last picture is the view out the window beside her desk. She helped me pick out the wood, and finish the desk top and shelf.. It's been a busy couple days. I had hoped to squeeze a visit with Tom in this trip but we came from the New Jersey side and didn't budget enough time. Yes i feel a bit like a fish out of water in the city here. :)
My daughter has lived in NYC for 12 years . Her Dad's hasn't made a vist.
I'm not built for it :D
That setup would create one heck of an inferno should a friction static electricity spark occur. I would drop a ground chain from the plastic tub just to try avoiding any chance of that.
Bruno, I will come back and see her, but I won't drive it again unless I absolutely have too. I feel just a bit claustrophobic compared to what I am used to... ;)
Quote from: 21incher on July 30, 2022, 08:40:11 AM
That setup would create one heck of an inferno should a friction static electricity spark occur. I would drop a ground chain from the plastic tub just to try avoiding any chance of that.
I had wondered about that! Better do that. Don't need a static bomb 💣. We will see how the screen top works like I had originally planned.
:) ;) :D ;D I knew my feet were in the picture. I guess I wanted you guys to see my size 11's.
Tops......hypersonic tops......classified secret designs. :o :o
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Maybe they will distract some kid from their phone for a couple of minutes. :D
Larry I love the craftsmanship you do on everything!!!!!
Excellent top. I would be distracted for hours.
Quote from: Nebraska on July 30, 2022, 09:41:47 AM
Bruno, I will come back and see her, but I won't drive it again unless I absolutely have too. I feel just a bit claustrophobic compared to what I am used to... ;)
I have developed a bad case of anxiety as time goes on.
I much rather stay at home if I can .
Gorgeous piece! I'm glad all those people like to live in cities.
Well I ain't makin' nuttin' .....yet. But I am fixing to and I went and picked up a mess of stuff for the build that I ordered back in June or so. Can anybody guess where I went?
Hint:
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A 5 hour driving loop in CT traffic, but saved a bunch of shipping cost and got to visit with the crew there. Now I gotta get to work.
Do you go south to pick up 84, or do you cut over some other way?
Don't you love driving in Connecticut? :D
OH sure! The Constipation state is my third favoritist place to drive, next to downtown Boston at rush hour when they change the direction of one way streets (twice a day), or DC where you need to make a left turn out of the circle. ;D
I left at 5:30am and got in and out as best I could, it wasn't bad. Know your enemy, I always say and have a plan. :D Headed home by 9am.
Yeah, I take the thruway to 84, then straight over. I dodged a bullet or three because I timed it right. Coming back I saw a 5 mile backup going the other way. Timing is everything.
84 is not a highway its a parking lot with funny stripes!!!!!!
I usually go through mass its so much easier than dealing with the always stopped on 84.
Yeah, that's not an option for me unless I am trying to use a lot of extra gas and time. There is no way to get to a place in the middle of CT without driving in CT.
My only other choice is taking mostly 2 lanes country roads, which can be a very nice drive, but take longer and more attention. I timed it so that I averaged 72 MPH and my gas mileage hung around 19.4 mpg. It just makes for a long morning, that's all. Worth it for the visit to Logrite, in any event, but I will try to keep that limited to around 2-3 times a year when I have worthwhile business as this was.
Massachusetts must be hard up for cash. Received a transit bill for $2.95 for a toll road there, had my wife's car license number and her/my address. After 2 or 3 hours of trying to figure out that yankee website of theirs I had a chat with a gentleman that declared he would put in a disputed claim. Interesting, car has never been out of Texas in over 3 years, much less Mass., he claimed miss read plate.
I explained to him that in our 80's we had no desire to drive to Massachusetts.
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made for @Cardiodoc (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51488) wife by @Jim Thomas (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51700) with erc and western cedar (cut up beam).
Quote from: Texas Ranger on August 03, 2022, 09:24:55 AM
Massachusetts must be hard up for cash. Received a transit bill for $2.95 for a toll road there, had my wife's car license number and her/my address. After 2 or 3 hours of trying to figure out that yankee website of theirs I had a chat with a gentleman that declared he would put in a disputed claim. Interesting, car has never been out of Texas in over 3 years, much less Mass., he claimed miss read plate.
I explained to him that in our 80's we had no desire to drive to Massachusetts.
As I made my way around Austin, TX in years past, enroute to Mexico, I'd take one of those Texas side routes that were labeled read your license plate/get a bill and I'd kick my bike up to a hundred or so when I saw the camera and never paid one yet. :D
CT is a confusing state as your driving along think wow, what a woodsy, scenic place then anywhere you get off it's wall to wall people and cars-cept for that one rural corner of the entire state.
Quote from: kantuckid on August 03, 2022, 04:34:06 PM.....
CT is a confusing state as your driving along think wow, what a woodsy, scenic place then anywhere you get off it's wall to wall people and cars-cept for that one rural corner of the entire state.
Gee, I dunno if I can concur with this. Being in the neighboring state I have had a lot of interaction with that state over my lifetime. In fact I am even willing to admit I have family there (there, I said it. :D). I have done business with a company in a large (new) Industrial park about halfway between Hartford and Springfield and they are surrounded by either working or newly converted tobacco farms, sheds everywhere.
When I went to LogRite yesterday, I was driving along 84 seeing urban areas, but as soon as I got off the exit, I found myself in a heavily wooded area with nice homes and some space. One of my cousins use to live on an estate of 15 acres, another had 5 or so, which is not 'out in the boonies' by any means, but still very pleasant living. I am sure their real estate prices and property taxes will reflect land values though. Those home sites were purchased back in the late 50's and early 60's and the communities grew up around them. Buying there now would be, um, prohibitive for most folks.
In fairness I will say, it is the ONLY place I have ever been stuck in bumper to bumper stopped traffic at 3am. I thought I was being smart by scheduling my drive to Boston in the wee hours. Who knew they would be doing construction work at that hour... in January. :D
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More pictures of projects from the amateur crowd. I'm going to a Lumberjack show next month at Twin Falls State park and taking some benches and decided to make some more of my super secret design bluebird boxes. They are what I use my scrap lumber for. A 1"X 6" X 10" scrap will make the front, a couple of 1" X 6" X 12" pieces will make the sides and I use a longer 1X6 for the back and drill 2 holes in the bottom to nail or screw to a post. The top is a 1" X12" X 12" board with 4 short sticker pieces to make a cap that slips over the top. Each top is custom fitted as each box is slightly different in sized. I cut the corners off the bottom piece for better ventilation. Each box uses 18 - 2" screws for construction and 2 for mounting, if desired. The top slips right off for cleaning. the hole is 1.5" and I also score a little "ladder" under the opening inside to help the baby bluebirds climb out. I've raised 3 clutches in 2 boxes here at the house so far this year and they may raise another one or two before the summer ends. They are not fancy but very natural and they work very well. One customer bought 4 last year and a week later when he saw me again he said 3 already had birds using them.
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I also had some scrap 1X8 walnut boards from a log I cut a week or so. A lot was splitting and such so I planed smooth and made crates sized for a dozen quart fruit jars (12" X 16" X 8" inside dimensions). The walnut and poplar lath pieces I used for sides and bottom go very well together. I use 1.5" ringed dry wall nails for fasteners. These are handy for all kind of projects around the shop or home and I hope to sell a few more.
Where they are sitting is my "shop" built on to the outside of my lumber storage pole barn. No heat, no A/C, no clean room, no real cover from the rain or sun. I do have a power outlet on the back of the locust upright shown. I work with what I have.
Howard your shop sounds like mine.l have a roof but no walls. I like working outside,I have good ventilation and good lighting as long as it's daytime 🙂
Yeah, behind and beside me is a raised bed planter I use to augment my sawhorses and to hold an assortment of fasteners and tools in use like hammers, tapes, squares, etc. I alternate moving a drill press and planer on the table where the birdhouses and crates are displayed. I stand things up against the upright to get a square surface when needed. The white feed bags shown are full of planer shavings and cut off board ends I use for kindling and fire starter. On the back side of the upright are a couple of long magnets with drill bits, chucks, etc. which keeps them right there where I need them. A half inch drill is hanging on a nail by a D handle on the back side of the upright. I can drag out the table saw in the background when needed to reach the power plug.
I finally got on a solution for the router and cutting board/chopping block thing for my sister. I ended up going with a table router, very simple, but I already have several fixes that'll need worked out. The top is huge, I think 36x48 and it'll now be a hassle to store. It seems to be working for my use of hogging out the bottom of this thing. I think I need to put an inch deep hole in this thing, though should probably check that.
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I also picked up a HF dust collector. I got a 20% discount due to the box being smashed open but it seems to work well!
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My second Morris Chair in birch
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Quebecnewf
Very Nice, Quebecnewf.
Well maybe this should be in the did something dumb thread...
That router table, more my bad design and mismanaged calculations, tried to send me to the hospital.
I was mowing along removing material from the bottom of that cutting board pretty well. The bit was going around an inch deep and I was getting better at it with every pass, slowly incrementing my way to final depth.
When I was trying to figure out the depth my router/bit would go, using other wood I had around the house to use as a sled, I found that I couldn't use something too thick and still hit my depth on the cutting board. Thusly, I cut a channel on the bottom of that table, in which to sit the router and screw it in through the top of the table. I bevel cut the screw holes so the screws weren't sticking out on top, and it seems as though between the channel to increase my router bit depth and the beveled screw holes I didn't leave enough wood.
The whole router fell out of the hole as the screws didn't have enough wood to hold the router up. Now, the way this is going is I'm sliding the cutting board around on top of the table and the router bit is invisible to me, so I didn't notice, immediately, that the router had fallen out of the table. Either the sound was off or something didn't feel quite right and there the router sat, horizontally, with the deadly bits spinning about 2 inches from my stomach. Luckily neither me or my shirt got wrapped up in it and it seems the cross pieces that held the legs of the table together and apart really saved my bacon. Phew.
Quote from: aigheadish on August 15, 2022, 06:58:03 AM
Well maybe this should be in the did something dumb thread...
... Either the sound was off or something didn't feel quite right and there the router sat, horizontally, with the deadly bits spinning about 2 inches from my stomach. Luckily neither me or my shirt got wrapped up in it and it seems the cross pieces that held the legs of the table together and apart really saved my bacon. Phew.
Wow. Lucky you are. Maybe pick yourself up a phenolic plate to secure the router too. Here's a small portable table I built years ago.
Suggestion, rather that blind rout the groove, you could secure the board to a flat surface and run the router over the top. That way you get to monitor your work while hogging out the wood.
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I believe I'd use a piece of Aluminum plate at least 1/8" thick about 6" x 6" or whatever it takes to get it to good wood.
I like that design Jim, that's what I was going for but I needed a lot more room to slide this giant board around on. I like the idea of the top running router but I'm not yet smart enough to build that jig, though it should be simple enough.
I had it in my mind that the router bit I have wouldn't cut deep enough for what I need, so I went with this table. It needs melamine or comparable for the top so I'm not too upset about that failing but I'm certainly re-learning to measure, see what my needs really are, then measure again.
I like the idea of a beefier plate to attach the router to.
The router is a new, scary beast to me and the only way I'm learning with it is to dive in, but I'd rather it not kill me in the process.
Lucky indeed.
I made a small door today for a little project I'm doing for a friend. He has a void space under his stairs and wanted a doorway into it. The door is 23"x33" and made from some reclaimed and new red oak. It is 1 1/8" thick with plain oak ply panels.
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Quote from: aigheadish on August 15, 2022, 08:14:31 AM
I like that design Jim, that's what I was going for but I needed a lot more room to slide this giant board around on. I like the idea of the top running router but I'm not yet smart enough to build that jig, though it should be simple enough.
I had it in my mind that the router bit I have wouldn't cut deep enough for what I need, so I went with this table. It needs melamine or comparable for the top so I'm not too upset about that failing but I'm certainly re-learning to measure, see what my needs really are, then measure again.
I like the idea of a beefier plate to attach the router to.
The router is a new, scary beast to me and the only way I'm learning with it is to dive in, but I'd rather it not kill me in the process.
Lucky indeed.
If you have a large forstner bit and drill press sometimes its safer to hog out large pocket areas with that and just do a clean up with the router. Feed direction and fence location with blind routing can cause problems.
You should really make or buy a nice mounting plate and some no slip push blocks. We don't want you to be the first person ever killed by his router. Learn to use templates and guide bushings for hand held pockets.
I installed the little door I made for the space under a staircase landing. It went pretty well. Had to cut the top of the door off at a little bit of an angle to accommodate an out of square opening. Please don't point out the fact that I made the opening.
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if it helps, nothing looks square in that picture :)
Ambrosia maple kitchen island top. Since the sink was under-mount, and since the hole for the sink had to be perfect, and since I had never cut out a perfect hole in a 2" slab for a sink, I reached out to Forum member Larry, given the expert craftsman that he is, for some advice for how not to ball it up. His instructions were so good that I actually managed to do a decent job of it.
This is a rather large island top measuring 2" thick x 53" wide x 75" long. 53" wide glue ups to get everything tight and keep the top dead flat in real wood is a challenge in itself. I glued it up one board at a time (5 boards total) letting the prior glue up dry before adding another as the live edges make clamping more challenging since the outside edges are not square. Trying to glue it up all at one time would have been a heat attack in the making. It is heavy too. Weighs as much as WV Sawmiller after a big supper of catfish, hushpuppies, and cheese grits.
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:o Oh Wow !!! :o
You Sir, are very Perspicacious. ;D
That's incredible WDH!
I have a counter top peninsula that my wife would love to have something like that for.
Beautiful top WDH. What method of sealing did you use on the end grain above the sink?
So, WDH, the top weigh in at a svelte 135 lbs.?
" Weighs as much as WV Sawmiller after a big supper of catfish, hushpuppies, and cheese grits."
Very nice work, can you give us a general description of how to centre and finish the cut-out for the under mount sink? Or has Larry sworn you to hold all trade secrets close to the chest? 😉
Quote from: Andries on September 01, 2022, 06:02:42 PM
So, WDH, the top weigh in at a svelte 135 lbs.?
...
:D :D :D :D :D :D ;D Andies, have you seen any photos of Howard in his gallery? Unless he is only 3' tall we all doubt he could meet this
goal wish prayer specification. :D :D Not that any of us could meet it either, of course except maybe Lynn.
But yes, Danny, we would ALL like to hear how you pulled that off and sealed it up. Having a top that big and thick would petrify me to make that first cut. Frankly, looking at it, with the tools I have, I have no idea how I would make it nice and clean. It's not the kind of thing you can 'shave and file, then sand' into a nice surface.
Beautiful work. Why do people put bottom mount sinks in wood tops. It's just looking for trouble once that edge gets a couple nicks.
That's gorgeous! Great job.
Very Nice, Danny.
the darker fixtures really compliment the wood. have you discussed the finish? curious if that is natural color of the maple or is there a bit of stain? how is it sealed? Inquiring minds.
Tule Peak, at this point, all I have done on the end grain at the sink cutout is to take a small brush and repeatedly soak the end grain with the tung oil over and over again until it has soaked up as much oil as possible. I would really appreciate any advice what to do next to seal the endgrain.
Andries, here is Larry's advice from the PMs we exchanged:
I would cut a template out of 1/4" mdf or hardboard. Cut out the sink hole in the center of a big piece. This way the router is cutting on the inside diameter and no way can you make a mistake. When cutting the mdf use your jigsaw and cut close to the line. I use sticky back sandpaper stuck on a thin flexible piece of wood to sand to the line. Mdf is easy to sand.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_0780.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1658336245)
Next cut a hole in your maple for the sink. Get within a 1/8" of your line. Use a 1/2" top bearing pattern router bit to follow the template. If your router bit is too short to cut through the maple use a bottom bearing bit and cut from the bottom as a second step. You can either stick the template to the maple with two sided tape or clamp it. Make sure the clamp allows enough room for the router to get by.
Not sure how your sink mounts but if you use glue, West Systems "G" Flex epoxy is what I've been using for years with good results. The "G" Flex allows minor wood movement and won't crack.
Hope I made myself clear. Good luck with your project, sounds like fun. More questions my email is xxxxxxxxx or give me a call.
I had a few additional questions and Larry provided more detail:
Finding a pattern bit with a full 2" cutting length is difficult. This is a good one that will work.
Amana Tool 45364 Carbide Tipped Down Shear Face Plunge Template 3/4 D x 2 Inch CH x 1/2 SHK w/ Upper Ball Bearing Router Bit (https://www.toolstoday.com/v-9136-45364.html) MLCS has the same thing but less than half the price...would work fine for a one shot job.
With a pattern bit that only has a 1-1/2" cutting length you will cut the sink cutout leaving a 1/2" uncut. Than you would turn the maple upside down and use a different pattern bit with the bearing on the bottom and your maple that you just cut serves as a template.
As it turned out, I did find a 1/2" pattern bit with. 2.5" depth of cut. It was a brute, but I could make the cutout with one cut from the top.
21, I also have reservations about an undermount on a wood countertop. I told my daughter, "We will see how it turns out."
Doc, the finish is 100% tung oil mixed 50:50 with odorless mineral spirits. The maple was not stained. It was some that had aged for a summer in log form in the Georgia heat and humidity giving it lots of blue and gray colors. The tung oil darkened the wood considerably. She liked the look and color of water based poly best, but the tung oil should be easier to maintain over the decades I hope and is food safe. The pic shows the top after the 2nd tung oil application. I have applied 3 saturated coats with the 3rd application rubbed out with 0000 steel wool. The finish has a light shine and is glass smooth. The tung oil will take about 30 days to fully cure and become waterproof.
@WDH (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=4370) and @Larry (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=125) : thank you for the sharing of trade secrets, it's much appreciated.
WDH,
The method that we use for mid and under mounts is penetrating epoxy with a solvent. You have to wait a week for it to out gas then we go to penetrating over the whole thing, then sanding back down to wood, then finish. Not sure what to say if you are already soaked with tung oil. It will eventually set whether or not you used an accelerant. Typically tung oil is finished with a varnish or spar varnish and today there are a number of choices, depending on where you live. Finishes for epoxy are typically 2K polys, like Epiphanes or Awl Grip, which I use. Most of my finishes I pull from the marine or aero space folks. Again, great looking top!
Just occurred to me that Waterlox, original formula in many thin coats would be a good option for you. Sadly, I cannot get it here any more.
That sink cut out and top are fabulous Danny!
I actually did woodworking today, barely. I cut out some plywood parts to build a bookcase in my bedroom. Cindy wants it blue. I do not want to paint, so I'm going to mix up some blue tinted polyurethane and spray it. I want the woodgrain to show thru, so I may do one coat of tinted poly and then following coats clear. I bought one sheet of 3/4 ply and one sheet of 1/4 and it cost me $120... sheesh. I will be using some other trim and such that I have to try and save a little money.
If you want purple, talk to @Old Greenhorn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42103) :)
tule peak timber said we can't drill round holes so I drilled a hole bunch of square holes today. Looks like my hollow chisel needs attention as the hole is looking a little ragged.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_0954.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1663292020)
Making a quasi roubo bench out of some junk ash lumber. Not sure yet what kind of vise, the Lee Valley twin screw looks interesting but lots of money. Suggestions?
How are you dressing your chisels? All of my ash is nothing but a powder post magnate.Lee Valley is nice !
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on September 15, 2022, 08:57:46 PM
..............., so I'm going to mix up some blue tinted polyurethane and spray it. I want the woodgrain to show thru, so I may do one coat of tinted poly and then following coats clear. ..................
That's a really neat idea Bill. I have never seen that, let alone tried it. What do you use for tinting and where do you get it?
When you spray poly, do you thin it and with what? I gotta try that.
Oval holes for me this week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/door_tenons_9_8_2022.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1663334616)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/doors_2_9_16_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1663334671)
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Quote from: firefighter ontheside on September 15, 2022, 08:57:46 PM
That sink cut out and top are fabulous Danny!
I actually did woodworking today, barely. I cut out some plywood parts to build a bookcase in my bedroom. Cindy wants it blue. I do not want to paint, so I'm going to mix up some blue tinted polyurethane and spray it. I want the woodgrain to show thru, so I may do one coat of tinted poly and then following coats clear. I bought one sheet of 3/4 ply and one sheet of 1/4 and it cost me $120... sheesh. I will be using some other trim and such that I have to try and save a little money.
I hope you take good pics and document well, I am really anxious to see how that is going to turn out.
Tinting poly, lacquer, shellac, etc. Works great and is easy. You can even buy ready to use rattle cans of "toning spray". Best thing is to keep a few pint bottles of a universal colorant in primary colors, and they will last most of us forever. I'll add a picture of the colorant I've been using shortly.
Colorants
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These bottles have served me well for 20 years and they're still fresh snd ready to use. I picked them up at a pro paint store when I lived in Los Angeles but I would think you could find similar anywhere.
Another possibility is aniline dye. Can be used for subtle grain enhancement or dramatic color changes. A very good tool for woodwork finishing. Can even make your poplar a very deep purple, which I have learned is a popular color in the upstate NY area.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39962/3576D977-1C0A-4EDF-B8EB-9182C66933F4.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1663337721)
Quote from: Larry on September 15, 2022, 09:40:06 PMLee Valley twin screw looks interesting but lots of money. Suggestions?
A DIY twin screw with wood screws and wood gears in between the screws?
I always thought a leg vise would be nice but I don't recall ever using one, I did have the idea of a leg vise with a cam on the bottom that is actuated by your foot leaving both your hands free. The vice would have a sliding top and bottom rail attached to the bench that had notches in it to adjust the vice width the cam doing the final closing, the cam would only have to move the outer jaw enough to make up the final difference between the notch spacing, some sort of adjustment to allow for wear and to get to the right spot on the cam to lock may be required. I had imagined it made mostly from hard wood (laminated at opposing angles for the rails so the notches don't shear off). In total there are 3 foot pedals, one for the cam, one for the cam release and one to release the pins that lock the rails in place.
Quote from: btulloh on September 16, 2022, 10:22:52 AM
Colorants
Can even make your poplar a very deep purple, which I have learned is a popular color in the upstate NY area.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
You guys are like a dog with a bone, I swear.
And if anyone wants a consult on 'purple', please be advised it will look just like brown when it dries. ;D
Okay - more from us low tech wannabees.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3301.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663360199)
I am going to a big trade show at a state park next weekend and taking a bunch of benches and birdhouses and such. I am also taking a bunch of my wife's pictures and decided I needed a better way to display the smaller ones which make up most of what she printed and what people buy. I built this stand out of rough poplar and spruce lumber. All I did was build a couple of uprights with stock spruce 2X4's, a couple of 3' long 1X4s for feet with some short cut-off 2X4s for braces then I ripped a 1X6 into 1X3s and cut a groove about an inch deep with the table saw for the horizontal pieces holding the pictures. Here is the first 2 shelves with some sample photos in the slots. I think it will work fine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3302.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663360197)
I found I can display about 10-12 photos per shelf depending on whether they are printed landscape or photo style/layout. I added the 45's at the top to keep it from ricking and after I took this picture I sawed off 14-16 inches off the top which just added weight but were not used. I broke it down and I'll re-assemble it with my cordless drill/screwdriver at the site.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3303.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663360736)
I made this 4' long X 14" wide rough LE maple slab bench yesterday. Here it is on the mill ready to trim the legs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3304.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663360740)
After trimming - all legs same height and angle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3305.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663360755)
Finished bench. I doubt I do any more to it as more work such as sanding or finish with tung oil (or purple paint) will probably not increase the sale value. I'll offer it as a rough bargain bench.
Oh I DO like your photo rack idea! In the future as you are wont to add expensive improvements, I think you could find ways to make it break down and re-assemble without tools and just some nifty through tenons and pegs. Also, keep in mind the wind with outdoor shows, so some weight on those feet will likely help, maybe sandbags. My wife uses those on her stuff. Once in a while she even sand bags me, but that's a different thread. ;D
Tom,
Thanks for the suggestion on the pins. That is certainly an option. I don't do that many shows where I take her stuff along. I thought about putting a dado blade on and cutting a wider groove but that may be for later. Some of her pictures are on foam board and are too wide for the current groove. Also if I make the groove wider I can put 2-3 pictures in the same spot where there are duplicates of the same scene or I could display from both sides. I may add another lower shelf for some of her big pictures that are currently in a slanted box as shown below.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_1979~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663368635)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_1977~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663368633)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_1978~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1663368632)
BTW - I had thought about the wind and the sandbags. Another option is to replace the 2- 3' 1X4s for the feet with 2- 4' long 1X4s for more stability.
You could also paint the whole thing purple Yankee Brown.
Quote from: WDH on September 16, 2022, 07:54:06 PM
You could also paint the whole thing purple Yankee Brown.
No mercy whatsoever, eh?
OK, you guys are why grumpy old men like me get even grumpier and scream at kids to get out of my field and waving a shotgun.
Quote from: WDH on September 16, 2022, 07:54:06 PM
You could also paint the whole thing purple Yankee Brown.
OTOH maybe "Yankee brown" as you guys like to call it should be added to the FF dictionary? You guys are gonna confuse the newer members. Still, no, I probably should not have mentioned that. I was just thinking on how long it took me to figure out what an SGU was a while back when I was much younger.
I will likely use some Transtint blue dye. I have used it before to color minwax polycrylic and it worked well. I spray polycrylic with my HVLP without thinning. Works great.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 16, 2022, 02:02:11 PM
You guys are like a dog with a bone, I swear.
And if anyone wants a consult on 'purple', please be advised it will look just like brown when it dries. ;D
Maybe on your monitor :D or is that after 2 years of drying out in the sun fading?
had a stickered stack of what I recalled was maple, it has been airdrying for years, as i did not have a project for it. I took the best ends in the shop to make a shoe shelf. approx. 3 feet wide and tall. it takes more wood than you would think esp. with short shoe height shelfs. turns out this was elm. turned out pretty despite being out in the wind and weather for years.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/EEC7E01B-105A-4921-A4C1-44715605EAB5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1663534563)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/17C71EFF-340E-4607-A7A7-46A87DD059CA.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1663534555)
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turned out pretty and with some Danish oil finish. i can better calculate the floor saving in square feet after getting it fully loaded. that is at least 12 sq/ feet right there. i am sure my wife will have opinions on that when she gets home. she has been in Ia at a quilting show and classes for the past 5 days.
the top live edge piece is a half inch wider, with a "Nailer" under it at the back. I can put a screw through this into a stud along the window, unless my wife want to be able to move it. there is a vent under there. the wood trim base board is 1/2 inch thick so it fits tight against it at the bottom and makes it plumb with the wall with the half inch screw board at the top.
Good looking! Are you out of that hardwax oil I sent you? Nice grain -too nice for shoes!
no, thanks Tule. I treat it like gold. I appreciated it. I guess that would be a great choice as well. would it be good for the next coat? I was trying to use us a little of a gallon i had left of Danish oil and be able to install it before Georgia got home. I was surprised. I recalled it being maple but I have made simular mistakes before. very dense. my dadoes were half inch, and the wood "mic'd" at 1/64th over and I could barely get them in and had to chamfer the ends. other than some movement due to grain and the fact that it is Elm, it planed out nice. top is 36 inches wide, and the overall is 34 inches tall. the bottom is 8 inches off the carpet, the rest are about 6 inches between shelves. sides are 5/8th and the shelves are 1/2 inch. the top is neat 1 inch thick. the window not seen in the pic, is about 6 inches above the shelf.
@tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) I was going for "Yankee brown" to match some of my wife's running shoes, but it just turned out brown. :( @Old Greenhorn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42103) :) :) :)
we have been using some Elm on the potting benches that sawdust Jimmy has been making. @Cardiodoc (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51488) could not believe how pretty and wondered why it was not sought after. i told him since the box stores do not carry it, people have no idea.
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top and bottom from Elm, legs and back shelves, ERC
this is bench number 5 for Jimmy @Jim Thomas (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51700)
Quote from: doc henderson on September 18, 2022, 05:37:35 PM
@tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) I was going for "Yankee brown" to match some of my wife's running shoes, but it just turned out brown. :( @Old Greenhorn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42103) :) :) :)
Funny, it's just plain brown for me too. Dogs with bones. ;D
I do like that shoe rack and have been thinking about something like that for all my work shoes I stuff under the desk but the heights are different on everything so I can never decide on a design.
I really like that potting bench design and execution. I just took the one I made in the spring and brought it back in the shop for a fresh coat of linseed oil before I store it for the winter. SO far it looks pretty good, but that ERC is loosing it's color and also turning plain brown.
plain Brown... What ever that is! :)
I have some nice elm for sale. It is very pretty as you point out. There has not been one person even express an interest. I guess people are like elm...what is that...I've never seen it at Lowes...it must not be any good. I'll have to come up with a project for it for myself.
The wavy bands of latewood pores really create beautiful grain in the sawn lumber. It is unique and gives elm this distinctive look. It is easy to recognize on a flatsawn board once you know what it looks like, but it is much easier to see on the endgrain. The wavy bands of latewood pores are easy to see even without magnification. Look at the first few endgrain pics on this link to see these wavy bands.
American elm (http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/elm,%20american.htm)
Made a color sample yesterday for a customer this morning. Brown.... :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Beam_Sample_Sept1622.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1663593137)
Is that one still very rough or is the grain just that pronounced it looks like it has depth?
It is a box beam sample worked with kutzall bits, wire wheel, Arbortech bits, and nylox. Sealed , sanded , colored, sanded, second color applied, skip sanded, and rubbed with hardwax oil.
It is rough looking but very smooth for ease in dusting. Rough sawn pine referenced from the inside for a tight joint. The outside is anything but flat.
WDH- the site (http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/index.htm) you linked to is pretty amazing!
I may have to try messing around with something like that. I like the rough look with smooth feel and easy clean.
I did some assembly on the to be blue bookcase. It has a menagerie of wood that I had laying around. That's the way it is when its for my house. It will still look nice, but its good to use up some stuff I have laying around.
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Quote from: aigheadish on September 19, 2022, 12:38:28 PM
WDH- the site (http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/index.htm) you linked to is pretty amazing!
If you are interested in wood ID, it is the best site on the web for excellent pictures and descriptions. The detail is very good and is what you need to be able to see the pore structure, etc of the various woods. It is very challenging most times when someone here posts a pic of wood they want identified and the pic is taken from 14.62 feet and the end grain was cut with a chainsaw with a chain that has not been sharpened for 46.93 years :D.
Fire fighter. Plane a nice piece of elm and put a finish on it. even just oil. describe it as a "domestic exotic hardwood". A local couple on vacation somewhere almost paid thousands for a table. and they had to ask 3 times to find out that the very exciting wood grained table was made out of elm. :) :) :)
that wood was treated like junk and sat uncovered in a stickered stack for years on the driveway. no rot and planed nice. some loss of thickness due to some edge wave. color and density still nice.
I spent some time yesterday looking around that site, WDH, and now have it bookmarked, the only better thing I could see/want it having were bark and leaf pictures too. Some of that wood is amazing though, I can't imagine I'd ever get my hands on a lot of it and I'd probably be too scared to try anything with it if I had it.
One of the best sites for bark and leaf pics is here:
https://dendro.cnre.vt.edu/dendrology/factsheets.cfm
I sprayed polycrylic on the bookcase yesterday and installed it in the bedroom this morning. Had the store color the poly for me. We just slowly added some blue and then a little black until the color smeared on a sample piece seemed right. Spraying the colored poly was a little troublesome, especially on the wide area of the back of the case. With overlapping sprays I would get light and dark areas. It was fine for my house, but I wouldn't be happy for a customer project. If it would stay wet for long enough I could blend it ok with a brush, but that wasn't happening yesterday. It was 95 deg. Anyway I'm happy with the color and how it looks in the room.
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when I spray I like to run off the end of a piece. it can be tough in small tight spots. I know the shelves come out, but it is easy to accumulate in the corners etc. it looks great. that is why I did a bush on, wipe off on my wife's shoe shelf.
This may sound like a cheap shot, but it's not. For something planned as 'blue', that looks awfully green. It looks great between the blue and wood wall, but it looks kinda green.
Nicely done though and an interesting point about overlapping spray passes. I wouldn't have thought of that ahead of time.
Might look a little green in the photo due to lighting.
If you start adding stain or color to the finish you are asking for trouble. i never liked the stain and sealer all in one. sanding sealer for grain. stain for color then surface finish for protection. just remember his handle is "old GREEN horn" for goodness sake. and if he was a KSU fan, he would wear brown on game day. 8) 8) 8)
As a follow up to my picture display rack here is it in use yesterday and today at the Lumberjack Festival at Twin Falls State Park near Saulsville WV.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3325.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1664153040)
As far as sales the event was largely a bust with 2- 55 daily mile rounds (220 miles for clarity). Rain today helped drive off what should have been a bigger crowd than yesterday. Lots of people looked at the pictures but I only sold $49 worth of my wife's photos and they were all the small ones and no takers for the big ones. I sold a couple of benches, a planter, a couple of crates and an engraved RO slab. My big sale today was going to take his back to a remote cabin in the UP.
The rack worked pretty good but I think I will add another "shelf" on top and build a wide shelf on the bottom to display the bigger pictures next time I do something like this.
A simple bar top today from rotten cedar.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bartop_2_9_29_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1664486930)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bartop_1_9_29_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1664486957)
Do I spy a Fish Camp in that second photo?
I saw the fish camp too as well as the update in the other thread. Man that thing is gonna be like a vacation condo/spa!
Rob you are the king of the finishes. If I ever pulled one off that looked like that I believe I would celebrate excessively all night!
This a seal coat of bar top epoxy, so a couple of more coats and UV protection to go yet. A price point project from junk wood. If I could get a customer for every piece of junk wood here on site, I think I would need to be 2-300 years old. LOL
I stopped throwing away stuff years ago and just stack it on the acreage and sure enough someone comes along and claim some of it as their treasure.
As far as the fish camp; the real challenge is convincing my wife and granddaughter to live within the 8' pick up truck bed. Without bloodshed. ;D
Exterior poly? UV protection how so? @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190)
We are doing the bottom with table top epoxy today so as to "balance" the finish schedule and totally seal the piece up. The UV top coat will be Awlcraft 2000 clear. A couple of other tables in the finish room were sprayed this morning with the same top coat and should be ready for buff out this coming week. I like to bunch the projects for spraying at the same time because of the prep and mess :)
Meanwhile I'm whacking out some rustic storm shutters for a customer.The UV topcoat on the shudders will be GF Exterior 450.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Sept3022.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1664568844)
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on September 25, 2022, 08:53:04 PM
As a follow up to my picture display rack here is it in use yesterday and today at the Lumberjack Festival at Twin Falls State Park near Saulsville WV.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3325.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1664153040)
As far as sales the event was largely a bust with 2- 55 daily mile rounds (220 miles for clarity). Rain today helped drive off what should have been a bigger crowd than yesterday. Lots of people looked at the pictures but I only sold $49 worth of my wife's photos and they were all the small ones and no takers for the big ones. I sold a couple of benches, a planter, a couple of crates and an engraved RO slab. My big sale today was going to take his back to a remote cabin in the UP.
The rack worked pretty good but I think I will add another "shelf" on top and build a wide shelf on the bottom to display the bigger pictures next time I do something like this.
Once upon a time I did a lot of area craft shows, always with wood items. I'm not up on show fees but have heard amounts that made a bigger show illogical for anyone other than a major seller and local ones not paying the gas and hassle. We've also traveled much in the SE and some out west as we love handcrafts but fine arts predominate local area shows as does "housewife" stuff like quilts and crochet and they know the event folks and are given the prime spots by we are friends stuff, so I quit, plus it frees up time to mess around when covids not in the way.
One of our favorite shows at The Appalachian Museum just N of Knoxville, had great mtn music and crafts but he quit after many years as they cannot get the crafts to come nowdays. AR has a some great shows like War Eagle and another next door, as does GA. The Cotton Pickin Festival was a favorite one there in GA. New England has money so some VG craft shows there.
Nice display!
This show is building back from the pandemic and the weather severely impacted the second day IMHO. It does attract the kind of customers I am looking for. The fee has gone up next year to $50 for the weekend or $75 with a canopy. I have not bought a canopy yet but may start looking for one.
I usually go to local flea markets a couple of times a year and sell mostly a few birdhouses and tomato stakes. My benches are too pricey for most local customers but I'm not going to sell them at a loss. If I could take them to larger venues like Charlotte or Knoxville or such where you have customers with more money than sense they would sell I am sure.
I do however normally pick up a couple of mobile sawing jobs which have proven quite profitable. It may be many months before such jobs materialize but several have yielded repeat customers and great word of mouth advertising.
Juried shows are the real money and they are like you say, where the money shows up. In my area, once you get beyond a meager cutting board price point or such, the money isn't there. Some years ago it became apparent my best local show the lady gave every good spot to her buddies who do Extension office related girly crafts. The biggest shows near us are attached to Berea college area wise and very costly to have a booth plus almost all crafts booths these days seem to be pottery, photos or other fine arts, not wood related. That Appalachian craft show was a great one with all day mtn music and foods like apple butter, cider, BBQ, VG basket makers, carvers and much, much more but it became hard for them to attract the best crafters as people stopped buying the stuff before covid hit.
I still remember a lady telling my spalted applewood turned bowls would bring $350 (back in the 1970's) and I'd told her we were in a far different world than Philadelphia.
I suspect web sellers do best with shippable stuff but my hands are too worn out to care now for selling stuff.
Well I finally have a little something to add here.
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It is to my daughters specs for my grandson. Now that I'm able to set up and use some equipment that I have this was a good little project to get some of it zeroed in.
I hope that is going to get a clear. looks beautiful
The beautiful wood and the arch detail at top and bottom turned a ho-hum case into a great piece. Excellent work! :)
Thanks guys. In that picture it actually has 2 coats of clear satin finish on it. I went with water based so it won't yellow on her over time.
Well that durn sure came out real pretty! I too like the simple elegant arches because they completely change the effect and draw the eye. Wish I had a bandsaw running for stuff like that.
Nicely done! 8)
Looks great. The grandson will enjoy the bookcase for many years.
Finishing up the wonky faux storm shutters with a greying solution.
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Parting up for a curved composite storage cabinet.
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A router base question. I made a new router table but now I need new, longer screws. I measured what I thought was correct but the assortment I bought didn't have nay that were the correct size.
How in the world do I figure out what screw I need to buy? I have a tap and die set with the little gauges that tell me thread pitch. I thought I bought the right thing but nope. I don't know how to get the right screw.
take the short old screw or router base to the store, or get a set of bolt and nut gages. I have both metric and SAE.
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@aigheadish (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53516) what router do you have?
Screws are like saw chains, but instead of three key dimensions, they only have two: Thread pitch and diameter (well length, but everybody gets that and you have a hacksaw anyway, right.) Maybe out already know this stuff, but maybe it will help, I dunno.
ASSUMING we are talking Imperial measurements here (English threads), first the diameter of the outside of the thread you measure is usually just a tad under the nominal diameter. So a 1/2" screw will actually measure around .490" on the OD. 1/4" will measure around .240-.245" OD, so round up a bit when you measure with calipers. OK so far?
Now the 'pitch' is also called 'threads per inch', so if you take a machinists scale and measure and inch from the end of the screw, then count the number of turns (threads) back to the end of the screw, this is your threads per inch. Technically, the term 'pitch' means the distance the screw will advance in one turn. So if you have a 20 pitch thread (the most common size for 1/4 inch screws) you will have 20 threads in that one inch section. 1" divided by 20 threads equals .050" per thread(or turn, also called 'lead').
Confused yet? If you have a pair of calipers, grab those and a screw and give me a call if you need more help. You have my number. (Just don't tell anybody I do free consulting. ;D)
Metric is a little bit different (of course), actually it's simpler. The diameter part is the same, except metric sizes. There is no TPI (Threads Per Inch) in metric, they are always referred to by the lead or pitch. SO you measure the diameter and round up a tad as with English, then measure the distance from one thread crest to the next thread crest, and you have it. Such as 6x1.25mm.
If all that doesn't work, do like the other guys said and take the easy way out. :D :) ;D Get those plastic gages.
Clear as mud, or did that accidently help you?
Like Doc said, take a screw to the hardware store. They usually have a try-me board with screws and nuts. Most likely it'll be next to the pull-out draws of small stuff, not the bins of loose stuff.
Most routers are going to have 10-24 or 8-32 threads. M4, M5, or M6 probably on most imports. Usually but not always! What brand is the router?
You guys rock. Thank you all for your assistance!
Doc- I don't know that I've seen those before, they look handy!
I did, in fact, think I was measuring like OGH is saying. Using the pitch (TPI) measuring gauges in the tap and die set I've got 32, the diameter is 3/8", length needed to be like an inch or so but yes, I have a hacksaw so I wasn't too worried about that.
I thought 8-32 was correct, it seems maybe I'm confused about what the 8 means, in this context. I bought this assortment set (https://a.co/d/fCixSLs) with 8-32 in it but I think the diameter of screw was wrong (maybe it ended up being the TPI was wrong, it's been a couple days since I've been frustrated with the screws being wrong). I don't believe the 10-32 fits either.
I'm also not sure how to tell metric from sae.
The router, I think, is a PowerMax (Menards house brand? Not sure) but I don't know the exact model, I'll have to check when I get home.
Edited to add the link I thought I added previously.
8 is the diameter of the bolt or screw.
There are 4-6-8-10-14 and then goes to ¼-3/8 and so on at the store I work at.
This is a bolt or a wood screw, machine screw, lag bolts and so on.
Then there is the course and fine thread
I have had more than one customer bring in something to find something to fit. ;D
Much easier than the customer that comes in and asks what will fit it. :o
Quote from: aigheadish on October 13, 2022, 07:05:43 AM
........ I've got 32, the diameter is 3/8", length needed to be like an inch or so but yes, I have a hacksaw so I wasn't too worried about that.
I thought 8-32 was correct, it seems maybe I'm confused about what the 8 means, in this context. ....
Something is amiss here. I think it's just a typo, you say '3/8"' dimeter with a 32 pitch. I think you meant 3/16" (.1875) diameter, yes?
If it measures 3/16 diameter it is, as Cfarm says, a 10-32 thread. A number 8 machine screw will measure about 5/32 (.156) in diameter. These numbers are approximate because the quality of the screw will have and effect on the diameter. Cheap box store can often be smaller and sloppier. If your screw is 3/16 diameter, then you only have to find out if it is 10-24 (coarse) or 10-32 (fine) thread.
Discerning metric from English is best done with those thread pitch gages you have. That gage must fit EXACTLY on the screw. Clean the threads and if you can see daylight, move on the the next pitch. If nothing matches, switch over to a metric gage. Something will have to match just right.
Haha, OGH, maybe. I'm not a genius and I'm just learning to use manual micrometers (I can't keep the digital in batteries because I'm unwilling to spend money for a good one). I thought the measurement I took rounded most closely up to 3/8" and at that point I got thrown by the "8" so I think I just guessed.
I'll take some pictures when I get home, if I've got time, and post them to add to the confusion!
Thanks again guys!
Austin, 3/8 is twice the size of 3/16. .3750 vs. .1875 and I think we need to be a little more precise than that. :D
3/16 is about the size of a chopstick and 3/8 is a little smaller than your pinky diameter. Micrometers can be confusing, calipers are easier and I prefer the dial type, they are fast and no batteries, just check the zero often and keep them clean. I am not really a fan of digital mics. We have grown up a generation of machinists who can't read a vernier scale, which boggles my mind.
Quote from: aigheadish on October 13, 2022, 07:05:43 AMI'm also not sure how to tell metric from sae.
My sister's ex is/was an auto mechanic. He would joke that his arm is a torque wrench calibrated in in-lbs when working on transmissions. Do it enough, you just 'know'.
I can look at a screw and tell if it's SAE or metric - I just know. Metric looks 'funny'. Most metric (small stuff) is 1mm pitch and it just looks different when you have been working on SAE stuff for a while. It's coarser than the 32s (6-32, 8-32, 10-32 and the rare 12-32) and much finer than the 24s (10-24, 12-24).
Before I throw something out, I strip it of the screws to save 'for future use'. Unfortunately, nearly everything is metric now. :-\
I have a collection 'for future use'
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It's grown since these photos. I need another shelf or two!
so wrenches can be used between metric and SAE. i think a 13 and 1/2 inch are about the same. that is for the head of a bolt. the size of the bolt is the shaft part. the number I think are the gage (like wire) and correlate to the diameter or thickness of the smaller machine screw. If it is a "house brand" router chances are they are foreign made (to sell at a cheap price) and therefore prob. metric. I have not priced the sets I have, but they were pricey when i got them 10 or so years ago. but over that time, it has saved me taking a screw into a store, and being seen taking it out or putting it in my pocket. i do not want to create confusion, and would not like being accused of being dishonest. i have occ. shown it to a store worker on entry to show i am bring it into the store. :)
Saving those screws and bolts can be handy, for instance I stopped at my brothers a while ago, he was finishing putting a winch on a sxs and said "I would be all done if I had one more 6 x 1.25 bolt about this long" (holding his fingers up) to put the plastic back on, and jokingly asked "you don't have any do you?"
I reached into my coat pocket and pulled one out.
Lowes is about a mile from me. and neighbors often stop here first to see if i have what they need. :D
Many times I would carry a screw, bolt or nut to Lowes and use their size finding tool. They have a device on a support leg of the shelves in hardware that have bolt shafts and like T nuts that you can test your bolt or nut fit in to determine size. It is kinda like the device Doc showed except mounted in the store. I has been helpful many times as they have SAE and metric.
Tom, I don't think I was off by double, but I did notice that whatever the measurement was that I made it wasn't exactly the fraction as you mentioned in your first reply to my question. After reading elsewhere that that could happen I was confident (at the time) that I was close enough to whatever it was I thought I had. Normally, I make a note of the sizes of stuff, but I think with this I may have written a note on my bench, not my phone, so I don't know what that is just yet.
Admins- should we make a different thread of "how to determine screw size" since I've clogged this one up?
ljohnsaw- I saw that rack of hardware on one of your other posts and I love it. I haven't quite gotten to removing all the screws on stuff I'm getting rid of but I've been close. I've got a couple fire piles in the back yard that if I ran a magnet over them I could probably find about a thousand screws or nails or bolts or whatever... One day I'll do that but I need to light them up another good time.
Looks like it is 3/16ths. I have 10-24 screws but the pitch is 32. I don't have 10-32...
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YUP! 3/16 on the snot. 10-32 is a very common machine screw, but the consumer manufacturers seem to prefer 10-24. My shop is the opposite, I have tons of 10-32 in all shapes, sizes, and colors, but 10-24 presents an issue and I have to go buy them. :D
Cool, I didn't find my notes on my bench to determine if I had it right the first time. I'm guessing that I was just guessing that the 8-32 was going to be correct. It wasn't and now I know. Oh well, can't have too many screws, right?
This is what i worked on most of the summer. Some log repairs on a theshing barn which I would guess is around 200 years old.
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Finished but not yet delivered. An exact copy of a 1940-ies panel door
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This is what I am working on at the moment. Preparing to shift the keel and the garboards (lowermost plank) and the stem knee of a 19 foot boat for a customer
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It is strange what life throws in my way.... all sort of things.
Nice to have some variety.
Such beautiful lines on that boat.
Is the wood pine or some kind of hardwood?
The boat is built from spruce throughout. Very good for a light flexible hull.
I like the hull shape so much that I plan to take off a full set of moulds from the boat before delivering it back to the owner. Just in case someone wants a nice little double ender it may be handy to have moulds taken off a good one. It was built more or less by eye as was common practise at the time so there have never been any drawings. Judging by what I know about boatbuilders in Österhankmo at the time I suspect that Joel Sundström may have been the builder/designer.
An alder mantle finishing out today.
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air dried or finished in the kiln? I have one at about 10% and am thinking of just a few days in a hot box ending at 160°
very nice!
Thanks Doc. An old log that we ran at 159 degrees for a week and then dimensioned. The cracks really opened up and the bugs baked. I have a real problem out here with PP beetles, so EVERYTHING gets cooked before it leaves the property. The foam distortion I had from a seed starting hot box was because the heating pad was laying against the foam bottom.
Did you notice all of the worm tracks on the mantle face? I'm starting a museum bench next week that is more worm than wood :o
i was thinking of a key (started a new thread) to hold the end cracks where they are. I have the hammer and plastic deal but I assume this is too dry to use that. it is walnut. i may just clamp or glue and screw something a crossed it. i have 6 inches of trim. pic to follow.
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it has been airdrying a year and a half. walnut. you can see the pith. then ends can be trimmed back. will likely also put a bowtie or key of some sort.
I am a little surprised that in CA you are not required to relocate the worms. that can be our little secret. we found one little worn in this. so the reason for the temp treatment, and to get to a point that it does not move. it has end cracks. i sent it with a friend (not a wood worker) for his home. it has a little twist. will cook and make it right.
you use a heating pad. do you have a pic of your hot box? what do you think of a 220 v dryer heat element?
It looks to me like that crack will really open up given the size of the wood, drying time, and pith on center. I love making mantles with the pith running right through the face as drying produces a raised/distorted 3-d effect adding to the looks. With as much sapwood in your pic, here, there would be enough powder from PP beetles to compete with Johnson&Johnson !
When your crack opens up, maybe polish out, open, with dentil tools before finishing.
I don't have any hot box pics as I pin everything together with pencils and break down flat again into foam boards for storage as soon as the event is over. The heat pad box is for garden seed starts, while I use a small 110vac coil heater for wood cooking. A 220vac heater will come in larger wattages, and you can even make your own with nichrome wire as big as you want. Back in the 70's I built some huge hot boxes to cure listening devices for a certain government group ::)
As far as rehoming the worms -most go straight to the turkey pen :)
Nevermind the below, I've found another post discussing this.
I've read about that in other places but I'd like to get a simple understanding of these hot boxes...
Is it just foam insulation boards configured into a box big enough for the wood you want to bake and a heating element (perhaps a fan)? Is the heating element suspended in mid air or...? I know the temps needed aren't too drastic but I assume you have to get the elements pretty hot, hot enough to melt the foam?
TW, love the pictures of the barn and boat work. Both are great looking projects.
Tule Peak, My first thought was I want to put a critter in that knot hole peeking out. My dad would take some cross sections of a black walnut shell and put little craft eyes in the kernel holes and then glue the nut in a knot hole of a small piece of wood from the woods. It kind of looked like an owl peeking out.
10-32 screws came in, they are long but will work for my router base!
Quote from: samandothers on October 21, 2022, 09:22:22 AM
TW, love the pictures of the barn and boat work. Both are great looking projects.
Tule Peak, My first thought was I want to put a critter in that knot hole peeking out. My dad would take some cross sections of a black walnut shell and put little craft eyes in the kernel holes and then glue the nut in a knot hole of a small piece of wood from the woods. It kind of looked like an owl peeking out.
:) :) :)
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An oak cube for an art museum auction benefit. Rough looking but silky smooth. Routing for glass on a pair of walnut entry doors.
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Time to start cranking out Christmas ornaments.
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Haven't got any complete yet, but the pipeline is starting to fill. Once I get my basic quota done I'll start on some fancy ones.
Someone will be very lucky to have one of your keepsakes. Have a very merry Merry Larry. :) :) :)
Larry, did you not do a thread on your ornaments in the past? I have lots of questions. if you have not, would you want to start one?
I've posted a few pictures and snippets in the past. A search will turn em up.
Need to take more pictures to really have a decent thread. If you have any specific questions I'll try to answer.
well, is your lathe able to help you evenly space the rotation to hit with the router so all the colored wood is the same space and size. how do you get the thin line around the inlayed stuff. i am amazed and confused. I think there should be an area for you turners. at least a thread. you are just teasing us non-turners folks. it looks amazing. "what are you turning 2022"! come on Larry!
I think all lathes have some method for indexing. My lathe is simple and accurate. The index wheel has 48 holes. For ornaments I usually use 8, 12, or 16 increments. That's why the marks are on the wheel.
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To get the colored lines on the inlay I glue on dye colored veneer.
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I used to use veneer glue but found Titebond works just as good. This round I'm gluing red and green veneer on yellow heart substrate.
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To clamp I put them in my vacuum bag for 20 minutes.
After glue is dry I rip into squares and glue veneer on the second side using the same process.
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When dry I cut them apart with a box knife and they are ready to glue into the ornaments.
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Clear as mud?
why do you only veneer one side at a time? I would think with the vacuum bag it would be easy to do both?
thanks! how bout the jig with the router and what a 3/4-inch strait cut bit that a 45° angle? is it at the outside edge of the radius where the router bit enters the wood?
Quote from: Crusarius on October 29, 2022, 05:22:45 PMwhy do you only veneer one side at a time?
Geometry. He needs the color on two adjoining faces at 90°.
ahh, that makes sense.
doc, a few pictures for ya. The router is a Bosch Colt with the optional angle base. I added a piece of HDPE plastic on the base for stability and to make it slide easy. Fabricated the rest assembly. Bit is a standard straight bit with the cutting point on the exact center line of the lathe. 45 degree bits do not work well as the center point is cutting so slow it leaves a little bur.
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thanks SIR LAWRENCE OF LATHE. i just bought my second colt 1.25 hp router with a plunge base to do inlay work. neat and it makes more sense now.
Thanks for sharing your secrets again Larry. I love those ornaments.
I got to spend a little more time setting up my shop and I built these cabinets. I'm sure they will fill up before I have a place for every thing.
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Combining a router and lathe scares me after what happened to Mark Hennebury. The bit broke and went through his jaw, narrowly missing taking an eye, but did take some teeth. I don't know the details, but I could never do it after seeing that. Can't post a link to other forums here.
Before folks get really scared here. What Mark was doing was way outside of what woodworkers would do. He was using his router, with electronic speed control to do ID grinding work. The speed controller took off, ran the wheel above it's rated speed and it blew. This is not the kind of work routers are designed for.
It's a shame he got hurt as bad as he did, but let's keep it in perspective. Using any tools outside what they are designed for has inherent risks.
Undoubtedly light work for you guys but I started and finished building a gate yesterday for the fenced in area for the newish dog, it's not ready for install yet, as the fence posts aren't in, but it's very rare that I complete a project the same day I start it. Ha, this is actually not the finished picture. Yehaa!
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I built this to match a bookcase I did for my grandson a little while back.
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I had to tell my daughter " Okay, now Papa needs to do some more wiring and needs to build some work benches ".
The pipeline is filled up now and a few dribble out every day.
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neat. thanks Larry. it is beginning to look a lot like Christmas. :snowball:
@Jim Thomas (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=51700)
Not a wood project but I need a way to bend some laser cut acrylic shapes in a upcoming project so built a very simple hot wire bender from mostly stuff I had laying around. Used an old HP all in one pc 19v power brick and nichrome wire. It actually works good in the end. Should be good for adding perfect grill marks on burgers also :D. Well it does use some particle board. Having fun making refrigerator magnets for the holidays also.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_2883.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1668224749)
Here is a video if interested
Xtool D1 Pro 20 Watt Cutting Acrylic Machine Parts To Build A Simple Hot Wire Acrylic Bender - YouTube (https://youtu.be/np4VAT0MY-o)
It's a year or two too late, someone was asking for chicken coop pics. I happened across the stick last night. It was when we were "between engagements" in '08. I had been admiring gypsy wagons at the time. Built on a trailer frame Dad dropped off and said "never on the road again". When it was done and hooked to the truck at the shop, the trailer broke :D. So it was kind of a woodworking/welding project. It lives on a friend's farm now.
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Good dogs I have known.
Installed a flame boxelder fireplace surround for a customer this weekend. They were pretty excited about the results.
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Glued up some walnut today, two entry doors and a countertop
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/walnut_doors.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1668557114)
I've been working with Cherry this last week.
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I started making this little table months ago, but got hung up with my planer needing new knives. Well I got some new knives in it and finished planing this. Now the new knives are knicked again. I'm guessing I should have bought higher quality knives. I will take them for sharpening and maybe get a microbevel and that may make them stay sharper longer. I just put some linseen oil on it and its amazing what the oil brings out of the walnut. I knew this was gonna be striking figure from the crotch, but still it surprised me.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_809779107064395.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1668558066)
Do we get to see it? :D
OH, I see you are one of those 'add my pictures later' guys. Very pretty stuff!
That's a neat bench Tom. Good job cutting that.
I'm one of those forget to actually post the picture guys
Tile peak, on your countertop it looks like your walnut transitions into something else. Or am I seeing it wrong ?? How did you make this joint, if it's not a secret?
I always sweat out those blind splines, but the truth is those 45's have to be perfect and need more attention. 2 years ago this week I was building another of these from a slab off the same log. That one was longer, this is just 36", but this one has a tiny twist in the top I couldn't plane out. I nailed the 90° joint on one leg by clamping, but of the other I am a little bit off. I'm probably the only one who will know. ;D I also had to do a little tweaking on the leveling for this one and didn't touch the last one. It's funny how just being 1/32" out will make it rock so much.
Right now I am working on all the little epoxy pours to fill in tiny gaps before I get into the finishing. Headed back to the shop now to see if I can flip and get in another pour tonight.
I'm also working on a small service bar I started about a year and a half ago.
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And yesterday I finished off a hat rack I started 2 years ago.
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Trying to stay busy.
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Firefighter,I have some similar walnut slabs I cut this summer.How long did you let yours dry before using it.Kind of wondering what to do with mine.
Quote from: trimguy on November 15, 2022, 07:33:48 PM
Tile peak, on your countertop it looks like your walnut transitions into something else. Or am I seeing it wrong ?? How did you make this joint, if it's not a secret?
The countertop is a bookmatched pair of walnut slabs from a 65 year old orchard, originally from the CA Central Valley. The darker wood is claro walnut with a graft line going into Franquette English walnut where the flames are. I'm doing a bit of a back splash at one end with the flames climbing up the wall so to speak. This type of log is typically used for high end gun stock wood and cut at a 45 degree angle (my cut is 90 degrees) is referred to as marblecake. There is a matching countertop across the galley from this and I will show it in a later post.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Nov1122_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1668560031)
I air dry it til it gets to about 20% or less and then I moved it into my drying shed. That got it down to about 7%.
Quote from: tule peak timber on November 15, 2022, 07:54:45 PMThe darker wood is claro walnut with a graft line going into Franquette English walnut where the flames are.
Interesting how straight the graft line stays (or at least looks to in the pics). Is there a natural weakness at the junction?
Thanks, I remember you posting when you got the stumps/ logs. I like it.
Tom, am I understanding you correctly, you used epoxy for " glue" on your miters ?? Is that because it's stronger than glue or to fill voids in ?
Both, and neither. :D Yeah, I think the epoxy is a little bit stronger, but just slightly if I recall the numbers I looked up a few years ago. But I really like that it comes out clear, but because their is not light source behind it, it looks dark (dark clear?). I don't get the discoloration you get with glue which really doesn't accept finishes well. When I get to finishing, you will see the the 'glue line' with epoxy comes up really shiny and looks like a dark 'accent line' as opposed to a yellow line you would get with glue. Finally, I am not Rob, so getting these joints spot on perfect is nearly impossible. and there will be a line and it will not be straight all the time. If it looks good, it is appealing, if it looks like a glue gap you filled in, it is 'unattractive'. At least that is where my mind is at.
As far as real world strength goes. I took my first test bench and tipped it up on one leg and bounced on it with all my body weight trying to break the joint and there was no give. I did have a bruise on my chest for a week or so though. I think the blind spline buried in there has a lot to do with it.
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WLmedley, you've got some great leg stock there. I be perplexed about what to do with them too. Between you and Bill, you have made me think about some maple pieces I have had staring at me for 3 years now and I think I will have to do something about that soon.
Rob, that graft joint is fascinating! I will never come into wood like that. DO I understand your corner at the joint is a 90° joint and not a miter, or did I read that wrong?
That makes sense to me. I might just have to try that.😁 Wait ,I need a work bench first. Trying to build stuff without a decent work bench is nonsense.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on November 15, 2022, 08:17:46 PM
Quote from: tule peak timber on November 15, 2022, 07:54:45 PMThe darker wood is claro walnut with a graft line going into Franquette English walnut where the flames are.
Interesting how straight the graft line stays (or at least looks to in the pics). Is there a natural weakness at the junction?
On this kind of graft, the junction is as strong as the parent wood. There is another type of graft used with nails and I try to avoid it by cutting it out during milling- which is how I got into the cookie business!
HEY! A workbench, that's a neat idea! I should make one too. :D I do have a bench in the shop, it's down on the main floor and it is the 'repair bench' where I do mostly mechanical stuff, saws, small engines, pumps and whatnot. The wood stuff is done upstairs and I have a makeshift 'bench' which is a very old Formica countertop laid across some wooden boxes. I don't even know where that countertop came from, maybe in the garage when we bought this house. Anyway, it's not flat and surely not solid or secure. I call it my 'finishing bench' because that is mostly where I do small stuff and apply finishes. I can't really 'work' on it. For 'work' I use whatever, mostly other projects in work at the time. If you go back to the post with the full bench shot you will see it sitting on a couple of glueups for a truck box I am working on, or I use the table saw top, or the RAS, or the router table, downstairs I have a bar that has been wanting my attention for almost 2 years (the client keeps asking also) that I have been using up until yesterday as a tool bench when I started on it again. Planks on sawhorses also get a lot of use here.
Yeah. I should make a bench too. I really should, but space is quite the issue. I don't think I have ever heard anybody say 'my shop is too big'. ;D
Nice looking stuff guys!
Tom the bench and coat rack look great!
I just finished a curly maple and walnut side table to use in my living room. It turned out pretty well and most of my mistakes are hidden. Learned some new things and got to enjoy my new router table. Finished with Arm R seal satin.
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Looks great! Nice job
Here's my little table top sitting on the base that was the inspiration to make the table in the first place. My coworker at the FD is also a scrapper. He found this stainless steel stand at a University that he gets a lot of scrap from. I saw it in his truck and asked if I could have it. It was the perfect size for making a top out of some short slabs that I had. Now I'm gonna try to sell it. Maybe $500?
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that looks like stainless? if thats the case I would trim the angles to match the top or be below the surface than try to give it a nicer brushed finish and depending on your area $500 could work. my area I be lucky to get $200 for it.
I concur with Crusar, cut those side pieces down if you can find a way. Stainless is tough, and that looks like 304. An ROS will do wonders to give you that random brushed finish, then I little spray lacquer to keep it that way.
As for price, it's worth that I think in the right decor such as modern or an office. It will take time and some good marketing to find the right buyer. Finding the buyer is always an issue. I am hoping for a similar price on the above bench, but marketing will take time.
Pretty table for sure.
I did forget to say that I do like the table alot. looks nice. I have actually been really enjoying a nice satin black set of legs more than the stainless though.
Keep up the good work.
I assume I can cut it with an angle grinder with a thin abrasive wheel.
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on November 17, 2022, 07:59:06 PM
I assume I can cut it with an angle grinder with a thin abrasive wheel.
Sure can.
Quote from: Crusarius on November 17, 2022, 05:31:41 PM
I did forget to say that I do like the table alot. looks nice. I have actually been really enjoying a nice satin black set of legs more than the stainless though.
Keep up the good work.
I've been getting black satin legs from Amazon. Sometimes hairpin legs and sometimes something a bit more creative but not too distracting, the slab on top is what it's all about!
I wouldn't buy anything from Amazon unless I have a gun to my head. ;D There is an internet company called "hairpinlegs.com" or something like that which has good prices and regular sales which I have bought from. But I really don't like hairpin legs very much too modern and too simple, and too wobbly. If the client requests them, they get whatever they want. I did use a leftover one as a third leg on a waterfall lamp table I have in the living room, the wife likes it. It was a test table from a cupped slab.
Yes, the top is the focus...for us. But you have to keep the client in mind and they tend to look at the whole thing (silly clients). I suggest Ritelegs to my clients when we are planning a table and they really make the whole thing pop in my opinion. Plus I can get matching bench legs.
Bill, how thick is that SS stock? If it's 1/8" a cutoff should work OK, but if it's 3/16 or 1/4" you are going to have to work at it a bit. ;D
On the other hand, I find most of what I need, or want to buy, on Amazon. I enjoy having a "shopping" trip last just a minute or two long from my "thought" to having it "on the way". Saves on fuel to get to a store, spending time to find it, and then to learn that it isn't in stock. I like short shopping trips. ;D
Also, small business's are surviving, I believe, because they sell products through Amazon. Does put a bind on the Walmarts, Target, and many other large outlets.
Amazon, I think, has been a life-saver for the USPS and l'd expect is holding shipping costs via USPS down.. but have nothing to prove that as USPS shipping is expensive. The USPS delivery trucks are full of Amazon boxes.
If I want to gift my kids, my grand kids, or my great grand kids.. Amazon will deliver to their address and I can track the delivery to their door.
And Amazon return system is great, IMO. No fuss, take a pic of the return code and drop off at the UPS Store or other places not too far away. Money refunded within minutes of dropping the item(s) off.
Yup, I fully agree that from the consumer standpoint they are GREAT! But check out how they treat their employees and their response to union drives in their facilities, which could best be represented as "slightly less than legal". The work hour practices are way over the line, their safety record is lower than terrible. In todays age anytime you can even get to a union vote tells you something serous is going on in the company that probably ain't good. Yeah, I've talked to folks working there, and no it is not good by a long shot, but they need to eat, so they keep working. That is their daily threat "wanna eat and pay your rent? then shut up and get to work."
I have also talked to (OK, maybe I was screaming at them, I don't recall) their drivers who are driven to make fast deliveries to the point of driving dangerously and cutting through private property to save time. They aren't in a great spot either.
So companies like that, I can live without. I too like short shopping trips and buy a fair amount of stuff online, but in the last 10 years I have entered 1 order from amazon and was not happy about it at all. That's my choice. Everybody gets to make their own. I still don't like hairpin legs. :D
Last year I bought 3 different treadle sewing machines at auction. Think something like $50 each. Sent them off to my friend to sandblast and powder coat. Think that may have been $85 or so.
We have been making tops for them. This is number two. My friend does most of the work, I just kibitz.....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_E0419.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1668741408)
This is number three and just went out a few days ago.
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Not my experience talking to the Amazon drivers. No one has complained. Deliveries have been great. Courteous too. Sorry to hear you have bad vibes.
Plenty of places looking to hire people, so not like they don't have choices as near as I can tell. People these days are expecting to be taken care of when they hire on. Not all bad, but then it used to be that one had to work and often work hard to earn their keep and keep their job.
Quote from: beenthere on November 17, 2022, 09:41:34 PMAmazon, I think, has been a life-saver for the USPS and l'd expect is holding shipping costs via USPS down.. but have nothing to prove that as USPS shipping is expensive. The USPS delivery trucks are full of Amazon boxes.
A bit of searching will reveal that we are paying for Amazon's USPS shipments by paying higher USPS shipping/mailing rates: LINK (https://www.washingtonexaminer.com/for-every-amazon-package-it-delivers-the-postal-service-loses-146) I had been told by my USPS carrier that they actually get about $1.00 per package and often times have to make an extra route to deliver them all. Yup, Amazon wins and we loose. :-X
Larry,
I love the table. I am constantly looking for those old cast iron Singer and other brand sewing machine legs. My problem is I do not have the heart to throw away the machine and cabinet just to get the legs on many of the ones I see. I keep passing hoping someone will buy and restore the machine to proper running condition.
I am like a friend up mine who was hot rodder and found a pristine Model T in great running condition for about $4000. He said he just did not have the heart to buy it and chop it up into a Hot Rod.
Quote from: mapleack on November 17, 2022, 01:07:15 PM
I just finished a curly maple and walnut side table to use in my living room. ....
@mapleack (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=30778) I've been meaning to ask, how did you do the joint on the waterfall side of the table? Is there a spline in there, biscuits, or just a very careful glue-up?
It looks beautiful! The base you made and the nice design of the bottom shelf makes it a real winner with the contrasting color and top wood that I can never find.
Nice job!
----------------------
beenthere, not to belabor this but my position is not based on my conversations with workers and drivers alone. It has been well documented for years in many press forms as well as agencies seeking to correct and penalize them for their practices. An amazon warehouse worker is twice as likely to suffer an injury as a worker in any other warehouse system. When they get hurt, they get 'released'. I found an article that might give you and idea, but you can do your own research if you like. CLICK HERE. (https://www.marketwatch.com/story/amazons-business-model-is-inhumane-and-unsustainable-11664560894)
stainless is pretty easy to work with. that looks less than 1/4" so a simple cutoff wheel will do just fine. try not to get it red hot because it gets pretty hard to work with at that point. Plus it will start to blue if you overheat it. Which is also a cool looking finish :)
if you use the RO sander to put a nice brushed finish on it I would also recommend a clear spray over it just to protect it. You can use whatever sheen you like for very different results.
Another consideration is that the top has just a little twist so it rocks a bit. If I raise it up a bit I can account for the twist.
The sewing machine base is a neat idea for tables. I will have to look out for them at auctions.
I'm working OT as a captain today which means I have less busy work to do. That translates to take all the parts for cabinet doors to work and clamp them up at work. I've been doing 4 per hour which is just enough time to let them cook and then take them out of clamps. I only brought 4 sets of clamps with me.
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so you need to drill and tap some bolt holes and then you can just adjust the bolts to take the rock out. When drilling stainless be extremely careful to go slow and not heat up the material. If you get it red hot it turns into a nightmare to work with.
I have some adjustable feet I'm thinking of putting on bottom of tabletop at corners.
That works to. I have been using carriage bolts for adjustable feet quite a bit. The round head makes a nice foot for going to the floor and the square under the head works for adjusting height with a wrench. Just to add to it I used a piece of 5/4 composite deck material and put a divot in the top for the carriage bolt head to sit in.
The composite decking keeps it off the concrete and makes the table slide pretty easy but still not slide unless you want it to.
This is a fancy version using a threaded nutsert that I had laying around.
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Just leave enough space to get a wrench in there :)
I bought a bunch of hardware at auction, which includes a bunch of those nutsert things and the threaded feet. It should work out well. I will probably let the top just float in there.
The entry doors are starting to pop ! A couple more coats then the glass goes in.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/walnut_door_1_1_18_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1668820397)
Looks beautiful!!! What finish are you using?
The only problem I see is people are going to be so mesmerized looking that they won't come in or leave 😂
Wipe on GF AmrSeal since the doors are in a protected area. Two coats gloss with a satin top. Simple pimple. The customer runs a 120-employee architectural wood working company and came to me for his home doors. Single log used in both doors with the rails showing an open "challlis" figure on each side of both doors classic Roman entry style. Triple rip-flip glue up on the frame for stability. I'm pretty happy with how they are coming out.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on November 18, 2022, 08:40:03 AM
Quote from: mapleack on November 17, 2022, 01:07:15 PM
I just finished a curly maple and walnut side table to use in my living room. ....
@mapleack (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=30778) I've been meaning to ask, how did you do the joint on the waterfall side of the table? Is there a spline in there, biscuits, or just a very careful glue-up?
It looks beautiful!
@Old Greenhorn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42103) Thanks for the compliment. The waterfall edge is just a careful glue up since it's not structural. I'd like to do a waterfall bench or Consol table out of something 8/4 and would figure out how to use dominos for that.
Thanks,
-Andy
Quote from: mapleack on November 18, 2022, 09:19:47 PM.....I'd like to do a waterfall bench or Consol table and would figure out how to use dominos for that......
Dominos? Not sure I have seen them in use, or even seen them. What's a domino? (Not talking about the game.)
OG : have a look at Festool, Domino and Track Saw.
It's German, imported, precise and pricey. Cheaper in Canada cause we have a closer relationship with Europe than the USA does.
The track saw is set for a 45 degree cut across the end, the dominoes are let into the end grain and glued. If you're using the hardware right, it results in perfect waterfall table tops every time. No gaps or wobbles.
Say it with your best Cherman accent: achhh, so preesize !
Yeah, I did go look at a demo video. It's a no go for me because I am not a furniture builder and the price is a killer. I use long blind splines 3/8 think, planed to match my router bit snugly, either red oak or ash and put the slots in on the table router pretty easy and they match up perfect. I don't see that the domino cutter likes working at angles but it would be do-able anyway. The issue I see is that I set the spline in an odd place from the edge based on material thickness and that is problematic with the Festool. You would have to make shims and play some games. Again, do-able, but a bit of a pain. I think there is a picture of my spline before gluing on a previous page in this thread.
Another point, with a waterfall joint is you are limited in the depth of the spline or domino because of the angle. Too deep and you go clean through or weaken the parent wood. So I prefer one long spline that comes within about an inch and a half of each edge or if it's like 20" long, I will put in 4 splines about 4-5" wide.
The only thing I need to improve is the precision of my 45° angle cut on the wood and that just means I need to focus more, that's all.
Always looking for new ideas though, and always learning. :)
This was one of my long ones a year or two back.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20201207_140753943.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1607395776)
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on November 18, 2022, 09:59:47 PM
Another point, with a waterfall joint is you are limited in the depth of the spline or domino because of the angle. Too deep and you go clean through or weaken the parent wood. So I prefer one long spline that comes within about an inch and a half of each edge or if it's like 20" long, I will put in 4 splines about 4-5" wide.
Always looking for new ideas though, and always learning. :)
The way around that is to use a "L" tenon. Here is a link to learn from.
L tenon (https://woodschool.org/woodschool_videos/49-how-to-join-carcase-miters-with-l-shaped-tenons/)
I've never made one as shown in the video. The ones I have made used angle iron or aluminum angle. Super strong.
Quote from: tule peak timber on November 18, 2022, 09:13:57 PM
Wipe on GF AmrSeal since the doors are in a protected area. Two coats gloss with a satin top. Simple pimple. The customer runs a 120-employee architectural wood working company and came to me for his home doors. Single log used in both doors with the rails showing an open "challlis" figure on each side of both doors classic Roman entry style. Triple rip-flip glue up on the frame for stability. I'm pretty happy with how they are coming out.
I'm sure he will be very happy! Looks Awesome! If you get another picture when done please post!
Yeah Rob, that door is gorgeous! I don't understand a lot of your description, but I'm used to that. Wondering what a 'triple rip flip' is. I have no idea, but it sounds cool and would love to try it sometime just so I can use the expression. :D
Larry, thanks for that fine video. Never saw that before either, but I am no woodworker. I was taken by the number of steps and the amount of layout involved, holy cow. I think I still prefer the straight grained hardwood spline, especially for long edge joints. He spent a LOT of time make those tenons one at a time, I would have done them in a gang method, but to each his own.
I suppose if you use metal, you have to make it a driving fit in the mortise because glue and epoxy won't make it tight?
I guess there is lots of ways to make those joints. I am throwing an idea around in my head for a table or chair that will use those joints, but at very different angles such as 30 and 60°. Been thinking on it 2 years now, nothing has 'stuck' and I need some wood to use for it.
Learning all the time. :)
@firefighter ontheside (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=26921) did you fill the corner and one edge with epoxy? They appear different colors and maybe finish, are they? The pours look very good and the table on the SS does make the walnut stand out.
Only making some fridge magnets to put in stockings. 5 down 95 to go. A great way to use up scrap
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r>
My wife thinks some are mean but I say I have put careful thought into wo gets them. Bought a bunch of commercially licensed artworks so I can sell a batch also. Takes about 5 minutes to make one on my little lasers and when my Co2 laser arrives should only take a minute each. Having fun before the big projects start. Who else is making Christmas trinkets.
Looks like you could do better with the language. At least for the FF. tks.
Gift idea is good, and good luck with the quantity needed.
Sam, the one corner and the middle of other end have black resin poured in the void. On that last picture of mine its hard to tell the difference between the edge of the stainless and the edge of the walnut. The finish is the same on the resin and the walnut, linseed oil.
Quote from: beenthere on November 19, 2022, 03:52:57 PM
Looks like you could do better with the language. At least for the FF. tks.
Gift idea is good, and good luck with the quantity needed.
I marked them up
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on November 18, 2022, 09:59:47 PMI prefer one long spline that comes within about an inch and a half of each edge or if it's like 20" long, I will put in 4 splines about 4-5" wide.
;D
I did a search for singer sewing machines and found someone selling just the cast base parts for $40. Perfect...then I don't have to feel guilty about ruining an antique. That will be my next table with a matching piece of walnut.
I made a table with one. some of the antique folks get a bunch of the bases. we have a Renews it store and they have to store them at a nearby warehouse open on Saturdays to decrease inventory.
Quote from: Don P on November 19, 2022, 08:38:43 PM
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on November 18, 2022, 09:59:47 PMI prefer one long spline that comes within about an inch and a half of each edge or if it's like 20" long, I will put in 4 splines about 4-5" wide.
;D
What did I say? ???
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on November 19, 2022, 08:49:26 PM
I did a search for singer sewing machines and found someone selling just the cast base parts for $40. Perfect...then I don't have to feel guilty about ruining an antique. That will be my next table with a matching piece of walnut.
The only ones I can afford to buy are so far gone they can't be restored. On the last three I got the cabinets were trash. I did salvage a few of the drawers and the actual machines went to two other people for parts. $30 to $60 seems to be the price at auctions. It is sorta amazing at all the different companies that were making them at the time.
You prefer one long spline for big stuff, unless its 20" long, then you use 4 5" long ones. Is that the same as 6 of one? I am just picking at you ;D.
OK, yeah, much confusion. When I said one long spline, I meant about 6" long or what fits as opposed to 1" dominos x 3. I never go over 6" long splines just because fitting and gluing is a pain, so on a 20" long joint I will put in three 6" splines or so. That's why I asked what you meant, I figured I had not been clear, and I was right. Making an 18" wide board at 3/8 think is more than I can do, so I just make one 6" wide, plane to thickness checking with calipers, and cut them off as required then put the board aside as stock for the next time. The grain has got to run the right way and it has to be clear solid stock.
you might want to take a look at baltic birch plywood for your long splines :)
Rob, with full respect to your encyclopedic knowledge and experience, I am not seeing how plywood would be an improvement? Half the grain is running the wrong way for one, and a piece only 3/8 thick can't be as strong as a piece of clear Ash with it's grain all running the 'right' way, can it? Even just comparing Birch to Ash I will have to go look, but I think the ash will be much stronger, won't it?
Besides. I don't have any of that material, it's real pricey around here and not sure if I could buy small pieces.
EDIT TO ADD:
Ok, I just did some homework and as usual, learned something. Birch is marginally stronger than Ash. Also see in the charts that Hickory is far better than both. Guess I should get some of the drying.
However, I still don't see the value of plywood over clear straight grained wood in this application. Can you point me at a reference for that kind of data?
Splines. Cross grain, 20:1, 10:1 run out or just straight grain?
we use old sewing machines as end tables for our couch.
Baltic birch would make a great spline. There are no voids. The stuff I just got is right at 1/4" which is why I used it for the panels in the cabinet doors I just made. There is plenty of wood running in the direction you need it to be. The spline really is just for alignment and the strength of the joint should come from all the glue surface. It also saves a bunch of time making the spline.
Me thinks the point was plywood for long spline so you don't need a extra wide board.
That too.
The Baltic ply is very stable and strong can be used in long lengths for tenons, splines, and sistering under a slab to slab application. I think you can buy smaller quantities from Rockler and such to keep the cost down. You can also glue it up to make massive dominoes for timber joinery (slip tenons).I use traditional MT, slip tenons, and splines depending on the project size. The Baltic goes into the hole, long or narrow every time without struggling -nice and stable.
. There is also tooling made for a shaper that makes self-aligning grooves in edge-to-edge boards that is cool because you end up with flat panels every time at clamping.
This tooling is nice for repetitive work like restaurant tables or big door panels for a house outfitting. It is like micro MT.
Back to splines, I find it easier(faster) to plow two pockets on a shaper or router table on opposing boards than making individual pocket holes for dominoes. Pulling a scrap of Baltic off the shelf running it through the saw and I'm ready to go.
A little trick on the waterfall knife edge is to make the spline a little loose in the dado pockets and use thickened epoxy for glue. You will have time to "tweak" the fit to perfection for that "knife "edge. A little walnut waterfall.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Waterfall_coffee_table_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1668960133)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/waterfall_coffee_table.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1668960157)
Well I am with Rob on the long routed slots. As for the choice of plywood over natural woods I will stick with what I use. Bill, I will disagree with you on the question of strength. Unlike biscuits and dowels, which only provide alignment, these splines do give a LOT of added strength to the joint. Consider that on a 45° joint you are still gluing end grains to each other and we all know there ain't much there for strength. The spline is glued inside the mortise to more of the long grain and provides a lot of added strength. When I make this bench I don't even need to glue it before I can sit on it. The spline take my weight easily. So there is that. We all have our ways and thoughts and beliefs, hopefully founded in some good logic. For me, this works and I am satisfied the bench, in this case, turned out as well as my skills will allow.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221119_140819430.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1668988050)
The joint matches don't look too bad either, I think.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221120_143501095.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1668988050)
Now I just have to do some more finish coats and find somebody that just 'has to have this' bench. I am thinking $450., what do y'all think?
$450=1.5 SGU= 1 SOGHU. 8)
Well Dennis, I think I am honored. But if I had a say I would think an SOGHU = $500 because that's a nice round number I use to figure expenses and incomes. I actually thought about that price on this piece, but if I can sell it locally, I knocked off 50 bucks because I am not thoroughly pleased with the finish. If it was to sell through a broker or outlet, it would have to bring in more than than. But it's entirely up to the buyer. It might sit for a year or two and go for a song, which is what I think will happen to a lot of my 'stock'. It's why I prefer to make things to order and make everybody happy.
Tom,I think you will get your price.Nice bench!
Thanks Wlmedley, I just have to find the right person for this and that can be a search.
Dennis I went back and checked on the FF lore for the SGU. I had thought it originated with Posten Whitehead, but now I se it was actually Southside? Not sure how I had that wrong, but I suppose we should run it by him before we make any alterations. I don't want to get in Dutch. I think it's best to just stay with the SGU we all know to avoid confusion, next thing you know we will have our own version of SGUcoins running rampant and you know how that can turn out. ;D
Hey Tom, some of us Dutch-born guys might resemble that remark! 😋
The way I remember it, Poston's price on:
a fancy bench $350
an outhouse $350
a bar top $350
Since his nickname was The Goat, $350 was named (by Southside?) the Standard Goat Unit. The infamous SGU.
No blockchains we're involved and bitcoins weren't a thing yet, at least not for me.
I forgot pictures but I'm making my shop warmer!
My shop has a high cathedral type open ceiling that many months ago, when it was hot out, got half insulated. It was a miserable job sweating my butt off and getting covered in fiberglass. I hated it. Thusly, I quit for many months.
Well, a buddy and I were talking and I told him that my math skills were terrible and I over bought rolls of insulation, like 3 times too much. He's got a project that needed some insulation and he came over to help install and got 4 rolls out of the deal. It made life much easier to not climb up and down a ladder a million times and he was smart enough to suggest laying some half sheets of plywood over the rafters making it feel much safer to move around. Also, the throwaway coveralls made it much nicer.
Well, since Poston and Southside are very much still around I won't go messing with it. That's their thing.
I am looking for an access to the city market where the price would be easy to get, I think. A store or shop that would either sell on consignment down there would be ideal. Finding that outlet is the tough part, but the prices would justify the drive down to deliver. Consignment shops around here don't handle the pricier stuff so much and they take a decent cut but the market doesn't justify the markup needed to cover that cut that I can see.
First option is always a direct sale. After that it becomes work. I do have a client who may be able to spend some time with his contacts in the City and find me an outlet for higher end stuff.
Austin, that insulation is gonna make it a whole lot better!
Those market access contacts take a long time to develop, feed and nurture. Be patient and work at it :) :) :) :)
Sauna doors and trim I built a couple weeks ago. White oak and hemlock. Customer pics of install in an apartment build.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/sauna_doors_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669044343)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/sauna_doors_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669044362)
I hope so Tom, the entire front of my shop, the big 16'x8' doors up to the ceiling (sloped to probably 16'-18' high) is still uninsulated. All the studs on that side run horizontally so I'm trying to decide if I should just roll over the whole thing with insulation or wait until I can get some foam board to stay between the lines, since I can't jam the insulation in between the studs like normal installation...
You can kind of see here where I'm asking about on the right side of the picture (my helper took a picture or two, like a creep!). The perspective in the picture is looking almost straight up, the insulation you see behind me ends at the peak of the roof.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/Resized_20221120_144327.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1669054174)
No, the SGU = $300.
A quick FF search will find many instances of it's value: SGU (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=105482.msg1626321#msg1626321)
Thanks for the catch MM.
Ummmm, I had prolly converted to Canadian $$
Leave it to Danny to have the definitive answer.
...Or it was just adjusted for inflation... :D
may need to be adjusted for inflation and consumer price index.
Some wild cherry plaques and modifications to dollar store cutting boards
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/20221122_124341.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669138927)
That wild cherry is my favorite wood to engrave. The burned areas are a very rich red color. Can't show the rest of my fridge magnets because of language. Time to resaw more cherry.
Kinda of ironic this moves to laser engraving just as I decide to bust out the laser and have some fun with it.
My wife is heading to a craft show on saturday and I figured I would take advantage of here and get some advertising. So I made up one sign for here and a business card holder for me.
The table is also some real nice walnut I glued up. No pictures of the table.
First picture is the sign for my wife.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20221123_190933_28229.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669254080)
Second picture is a plug for my latest endeavor, I even added a business card slot to it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20221123_190838.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669254082)
My wife made the logo I just ran the laser and found the material.
Sawing being a bit slow i decided to consume some rough 1" white cedar and made 7 of these bluebird houses. Put them on FB marketplace, who knows.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21495/A8E4D6DB-274D-4D94-BA9D-B347ADF7DE85.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1669297185)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21495/85C91009-9253-4744-A6D0-3B2ECBA2410E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1669297205)
Quote from: Crusarius on November 23, 2022, 08:43:34 PM
Kinda of ironic this moves to laser engraving just as I decide to bust out the laser and have some fun with it.
My wife is heading to a craft show on saturday and I figured I would take advantage of here and get some advertising. So I made up one sign for here and a business card holder for me.
The table is also some real nice walnut I glued up. No pictures of the table.
First picture is the sign for my wife.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20221123_190933_28229.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669254080)
Second picture is a plug for my latest endeavor, I even added a business card slot to it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20221123_190838.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669254082)
My wife made the logo I just ran the laser and found the material.
Nice job. I have found lasers are quicker and more fun then my cnc router. Basically no noise and no chips. They also are excellent for cutting precision fitting box joints in seconds. I can only cut up to 1/2" material with my blue diodes but thinking about big 120 watt co2 if I can find a supply of Baltic Birch for making kits to assemble. 50 watt co2 should be here in December.
Starting a batch of slate coasters now And a bunch of wine glasses next.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/20221124_091154.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669299548)
Playing with lasers is addictive and precision without investing in thousands of dollars worth of tooling.
I was wondering about getting a giant laser to mount on my CNC. I am using an atomstack pro+ I think its only a 5 watt laser but I am probably wrong.
Burns walnut really nice. it is funny the way it burns different at each part of the wood. The sapwood had the lightest burn to it which surprised me. the transition from sap to heart had the deepest. then the heart was in between the two. I thought the sapwood would have been the deepest but maybe its due to density and water content.
I like the granite coasters. never thought about doing granite. I have wondered how it works on glass though.
sap wood burns deeper but may still be lighter. each growth ring will be denser and darker. this is why maple is good for photos. has small grain and a broad range of darkness/grayscale. Walnut engraves dark, but not much contrast as the wood is dark also. glass is "etched" not engraved. for thin glass like a wine glass, it may crack, so you have to lower power and keep speed up. if you want a smooth surface on a sheet of glass, then you invert the image and engrave on the back side. If you are getting cracking, you can coat with a thin layer of dish soap to dissipate the heat. wine glasses I do on the outside and use soap. turkey called are done on the backside and are thick, and do not require the soap.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/3086FEF5-B954-4F4B-B8FE-30A57DC82AE8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1633788065)
the PJs Hyde House is engraved on the back side to keep the front smooth and easy to clean. image inverted. nice little library if I do say so myself. holding up very well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/925B6097-9BFE-4847-8961-F5536C1219B5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1599930375)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/57ED8835-33E9-4ADE-B553-81ED7461A65A.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1599930377)
thanks doc. thats gonna be really helpful.
you guys ever try laser on plexiglass? Actual plexiglass, not lexan.
Yes, backs engraved and fill with paint or carnauba wax. rub-n-buff sold at hobby lobby. also, at lower power or it will melt and loose detail. I just went to find a couple examples we did for my son, of some gaming emblems. could not find them spur of the moment. here is another neat deal on canvas. also, leather does well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/04FAB2A2-5687-4CF8-A69D-9FB2935F6B27.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1669309674)
I don't know if my 20w(?) ortur is up to it but I'm going to try engraving copper for some parts at work. As I understand we pay a buck per for a serialization engraving on some of our other pieces of copper but not on the ones I'm going to try. We'll see, likely this weekend.
If it works I'll decide whether to try to charge my workplace or suggest a laser so we can engrave it all ourselves.
Laser engraving in General Woodworking (forestryforum.com) (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=105401.msg1641029#msg1641029)
i do not think a co2 will engrave all metals. you can get a spray on ceramic that turns to glass when heated/laser engraved. you can paint and engrave through paint. I do a lot of painted/powder coated meatal insulated cups.
Remember you have a blue diode and doc has a co2tube that are different wavelength.
I see grain variation on photos but can control it by tweaking the flow on my air assist. I have an Atomstack A7 I stretched to 4 ft long signs and that has given me many problems. I recently made some signs and focused it 2.5 mm high on ash with the results looking like inlaid walnut. Here's one of them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/20221124_124201.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669311676)
For glass it has to be painted black with water based paint so the laser doesn't just pass through and becareful with the power levels. I recently did a video building an acrylic bender and showed what colors of acrylic I was able to cut. Clear is out along with lighter colors. Black cast acrylic cuts beautifully with a diode laser and cut quality goes downhill with colors but try samples before committing because there is a wide variety of acrylic formulas. The expensive ceramic coating works great on metal and glass also. Always be sure there is outdoor ventilation for your fumes because they are harmful to your health pvc fumes can kill.
A cnc router cannot achieve speeds required for a large co2 tube and it's all mirrors so total enclosure is a must plus with wood dust around it would be a fire hazzard. For best results use lightburn software.
Doc, that canvas looks great. I was wondering how it would work on fabrics.
21, that looks great. I really like the way it colors to look like walnut. I have just started to use lightburn and may actually buy it. so far it is the best I have used.
prob natural fiber like cotton. jeans ect. leather is good. although I do have a different laser type as pointed out. do you have a book? I have a couple pages telling setting and tips.
So after looking at my wifesw sign on the lauan right next to my nice walnut sign I decided that would not do. So I made my wife a nicer one.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/handpaintedornamentslaser.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669389989)
not sure if I have a book. I have just kind of been playing and got lucky on the settings for walnut. I am going to make an enclosure like 21incher has over his laser and do a direct vent outside. Having to open the doors in the shop this time of year is not great.
I have also been laser marking the back of my business cards for a little more information.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/blank_ELS_business_card_front_and_back.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669390645)
Another interesting effect you can get on canvas is spray multiple layers of different color spray paint on the canvas. Engrave as a photo and the power levels of a greyscale will result in a multicolor painting as it burns through different color paint layers. Wild cherry is my absolute favorite wood for laser engraving.
Not a great pic, but out they go. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/walnut_doors_11_29_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669743159)
Those book matched panels are really awesome Thule! Is that piece of wood at the bottom of the photo some sort of giant dovetail?
Parts and bits of the old sailboat keel we just sawed
WDH and YH talked about how nice the HF hydraulic cart was for processing lumber....so I bought one I guess 6 months ago. I do like it for surfacing lumber out of the kiln but found I use it for many other things.
Nothing heavy, but a few parts for segmented boxes I'm making. Parts are close by to aid in production.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1266.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669778092)
I didn't like the handle to lower the table as it was always in the way when processing lumber so I made a quick and dirty mod and got rid of the handle. I thought of something with a bell crank but quick won out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1267.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669778093)
Nice ! How much weight will it hold?
HF says its good for 1,000 pounds. I've had a big stack of lumber on it without any problems.
This is a great thread, Plenty of really cool ideas. I'm no pro but I've been messing around with some red cedar that I milled last spring.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221130_073804.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669842865)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221130_073823.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669842962)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221130_144825.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669842845)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221130_144841.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669843055)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221128_182744.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669843089)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221128_163859.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669777657)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221129_155749.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1669777674)
Beam me up Scotty !
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/box_beam_12_2_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670014600)
tell us more TPT. is it a foe beam and missing a side, or ??? for the edge of a ceiling?
Faux... blame the French and my Mother's flashcards :D
(but handy in scrabble!)
yes you are right. I have spelled it both ways.
This is a 23' Ponderosa Pine light distressed L shaped faux beam. I'm not sure what they are doing with it. There are 3 more matching beams in this series that I need to figure out this weekend how to build. These 3 will have partial ends and backs showing and need to blend into an opening, more or less the same size. Bit of a challenge. The color approved sample I'm building to.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Beam_Sample_Sept1622~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670026429)
ummm, pretty sure scotty never beamed up half a person. I think you got the name wrong :)
Tule is looks like you are "givin it all you got!".
(219) I'm giving it all she's got, captain! - Loaded Weapon - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bT8CRi9k4bo)
In my current pack of puppies, we have Rocky, Bullwinkle, Boris, Natasha and Wiley Coyote. I watch too much TV!!
we have had a Norman Rockwell, Scout (from to kill a mockingbird) Winn Dixie, and now Libby born on the fourth of July (lady liberty) prince (my dads dog growing up was King) and griffin.
ScottMW, keep those no pro projects coming. ;D
I did a little more tinkering last weekend.I took a piece of red cedar and a trail cam picture to a friend who owns a cnc and came back with this. We did it as an experiment for future woodworking projects. I thought it turned out petty neat.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/RCNX0081.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1670376243)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221206_153803.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670376187)
Very cool! Excellent buck and camera!
I'm narrowing in on finishing these big cabinets. I'm currently painting the faceframes and doors. The faceframes will be attached with pocket screws and glue. None of the sides will be seen as these 4 cabinets go next to each other from wall to wall in a kitchen.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_715696113313354.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1670378585)
A quick little project last week was to make some little doors and a top for this vanity. My coworker didnt like the way this vanity looked, so he wanted a new top and doors. He then installed a different bowl type sink. I like the way the doors turned out and the top had some great grain.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_3434282030232694.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1670378705)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_662134732318299.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1670378728)
beauty
There!!!!
That's an improvement.
That vanity looks fantastic! We've got a plain jane vanity in the half bath that I've been wanting to make look nicer, much like what you've done. One of my reservations has been wood counter tops in a wet environment but in a half bath, I think I'd be safe if I can keep the kids out of there. Unfortunately if that project was put into the queue, it would be #122,714 in line with other stuff that actually needs to be taken care of first.
Fear not wood and water. Look to marine grade finishes like AwlGrip, Epithanes, Interlux, etc, and they do pretty well.Sometimes we pretreat with penetrating epoxy. All the surfaces in my house are wood and require minimum care. I did have my Granddaughter spill nail polish on her vanity top, so I removed it, had her sand the entire top out and I re-finished and re-installed. She "will never do that again!" was her comment.
I have a lot of tops out in the field over the years and so far, no call backs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bathroom__vanity~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670423105)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bath_counter.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670423127)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/kitchen_tops.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1670423170)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/wet_bar.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1670423205)
Fear Not! :snowball: :)
A wet undermount I'm doing this morning with a new twist. Instead of spraying or brushing, I'm applying Awlgrip clear polyester topcoat by wiping. You're supposed to use a reducer to spray or brush, but I am just leaving it out. Once the 3-component topcoat is mixed, I'm just wiping on layer after layer of thin 100% solids, no solvents. This is a "not by the book" method, but we're starting to do this because it's less messy and doesn't smell as bad. Got to think outside the box.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/truck_12_7_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670430056)
Looks good. I will have 2 vanity tops to do in the future, I'm not sure I want a 3 part mix.
Never heard of awlgrip. Can you show me a picture of the can. I looked it up on their site, but there's a lot of options.
Quote from: tule peak timber on December 07, 2022, 09:27:45 AM
Fear not wood and water.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bath_counter.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670423127)
It's not fear, just knowing what I don't know and making sure I learn everything I can before attempting so I don't have to rip it out and start over.
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on December 07, 2022, 12:39:55 PM
Never heard of awlgrip. Can you show me a picture of the can. I looked it up on their site, but there's a lot of options.
Awlgrip; very famous yacht and airplane finish. This company is AkzoNobel at around $42billion/year. I spent almost 2 years at war with these guys, but that's another story. Their finishes are stellar!
In the photo, Awlgrip Clear, is in the little can on top of the big can. It's a polyester finish that uses the 2 components to the left for brushing and the 2 components to the right for spraying. Awlgrip is extremely hard, does not polish so you must get it right the first time. Sticks to anything with the right primers and prep.
Awlcraft 2000 Clear is the one gallon round can and a buffable, polishable acrylic urethane finish. When you brush it you use the 2 components to the left and in spray application the 2 components to the right in spray. This is the finish we use to make some of the table tops look like diamonds. Pretty darn hard
Awlwood is the single component polyurethane that requires a specialized primer and is some of the toughest finish you'll ever see. All 3 of these products contain UV inhibitors, therefore are great for exterior work like entry doors and table tops.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/awlgrip_12_7_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670442255)
High end, indeed.
Tule- all your wood and wet applications are amazing. Well done.
Ffots- that cabinet and counter looks great!
I'm doing a quick and dirty build of a battery operated tool rack, like where you hang cordless screwdrivers etc. I've seen a lot of these online and have wanted to build something like them for a while.
Uh, it looks like, so far, I've made the biggest one ever. Most I've seen appear about 18" wide or so and I wanted to accommodate all the chargers I have. My terrible math suggested that 3' should be wide enough and I've got to say it should allow for plenty of growth as well. All made from random scrap around the garage and shop, I'll try to remember to post when I'm done with it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20221207_160202.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670447578)
Also, I don't know if I've posted about it here but I'm sloooooowly building a rock screener. It, basically, just needs legs put on it at this point but I just haven't done it. Welp, I'm currently working on finishing the gravel floor in the barn, which means I need to empty the whole thing out so I can dump gravel in. The rock screener was sitting around and I have a bunch of 16'+ long 2x4, 2x6, and 2x8 sitting in the barn. I thought the rock screener would make a great rack to hold all that lumber toove it all around more easily. It did!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20221206_133539.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670446577)
This morning I shot lacquer on some gift boxes I'm making. I thought I would go ahead and put a finish on the workbench I've been making. After thinking for a while about what to use simple, fast, cheap, and on hand won out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1277.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670460728)
This is the standard Sam Maloof finish. First in the bottle was tung oil, than linseed oil, and finally poly. You can see the tung oil is the lightest color, while the linseed oil is the darkest. The top is poly and its close to the color of linseed oil.
Today the consensus in the high end market is if your not using expensive German hard wax oil finishes your not doing quality work. I wonder what Sam would say about this current trend?
What's the mixing ratio Larry?
Equal amounts is the standard ratio. I sometimes vary depending on the desired outcome. If I want more gloss and something a little tougher I'll up the poly.
I've often used a similar mix of 1/3 blo, 1/3 poly, and 1/3 mineral spirits or other thinners.
blo? Oh wait, Boiled Linseed Oil! I got it, never mind. :D
And just a dash of Japan dryer................ 8)
Sam is looking at my wood as we speak ;D
I use Sikkens Cetol on my log home. It is also made by AkzoNobel.
I used Maloof's finish on my Rocking Chair. Just wiped on about 5 coats with an old sock.
I attached the face frames on 3 of 4 cases today. They look a lot better with the frames on. I also painted doors, and doors and more doors. I hate painting. With any luck I'll get them all done tomorrow. The weather is not very condusive though. I will paint some in the shop where it is nice and warm. The others I will set up in the garage.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_550323783189926.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1670469293)
By no means do I call myself a woodworker so posting here is maybe a stretch for me. Every Christmas my ex wife, now girlfriend, comes up with a project for "us" to build to give away as gifts to friends and family. This year it was plant stands. She saw something similar on Amazon and asked me to makes something similar. All the wood used was grown on my land and sawed by me.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65416/IMG_20221208_130651106.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670527246)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65416/IMG_20221208_130936139.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670527231)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65416/IMG_20221208_130717872.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670527231)
Ex wife, now gf? Neat!
Those plant stands are great! I wish I had the energy to have an all native to my property project! So far I only have 1, my mantle. Well done.
The plant stands are great and I'm sure will be well received.
I didnt meet my goal of getting all the doors done painted today. It was 48 deg and raining today, so the ones I painted out in the garage took all day to dry. I will finish tomorrow though.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_3354562911489494.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1670539716)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/E4CCD98B-6677-472E-8C80-6859B333461C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1670540509)
Elm Charcuterie board, for my daughters college art department. 15 x 22 inches
Red elm is such a pretty wood. I love the little spots it has from the epicormic sprouts. That's a term I learned from Danny by the way. I love the pieces of elm I put in my floor.
Finished off ornaments for the year. About 60 total. Gifts, a couple to a charity auction, and a few to sell.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5666.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1670638863)
Cranked out a couple of round boxes for gifts. I've made a bunch of these over the years but they suck the time.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5648.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1670638863)
Hank helped me put some finish on the little workbench I've been making.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1280.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670638801)
Started a Arts and Crafts book case tonight.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1283.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670638801)
A couple of other small but rush projects...a full week for this old guy. :)
I got the last coat put on the last door 30 minutes before I left for KC for the weekend. We will see how bad they get stuck to what they are sitting on when I get home Sunday. I kind of pushed the envelope for time between coats and turning them over to paint the other side.
I feel like I've been working on this project since September. Oh, wait I HAVE been working on this since September. It didn't help that Liam decided to break his nose and have a concussion in October. Today, my dad came with me to help me install them and one of my coworkers came to help me carry them into the house. I'm happy with how they turned out. I had been a little worried about all the doors. They fit perfectly and installing went very smoothly. These are 24" deep, 34" wide and 94" tall. Customer wants me to come back at a later date to install some shelves that slide out on full extension slides. Getting these out of the garage means I got my truck into the garage for the first time in 6 months, just in time for winter.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_837418967369672.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671144835)
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A little Wild Cherry Slab mini charcuterie board. Had the slab laying around for years looking for a project.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_3163.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1671152922)
Back side
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_3165.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1671152915)
Love the cherry sapwood color.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/380F99F8-9503-4804-94E3-C68C0773C822.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671158152)
Neighbors wanting some boards, for the family from a sentimental tree from the front yard, from the parents who both passed this past year. It is pine but is their tree.
The big pine I cut last week has that same sort of stain.
this tree was starting to have some brown needles the past year, so it was taken down. Gary and shanon live across the street in what was his parents' home. so, I was also friends with the parents 20 years my senior and now passed on. blue stain or "denim pine".
Is that an Ichthys on a frat paddle or?
they wanted that logo. I thought the fish was mostly catholic, but they said no it is a Christian fish, with a cross. and of course, they had pictures of the shape of the board. they are nice but it had to be very close to the same shape, length, thickness and width.
Fridays project. I have 24 M&T joints to cut on a Arts & Crafts bookcase. Thought I would cut the smaller mortises with my router. Made a jig which seems to work well so far.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1303.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671243635)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1304.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671243634)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1305.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671243635)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1306.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671243635)
The clamp on the left worked, but not good. Slow and unless really tight the work slipped. So....I came up with the rubber band eccentric clamp on the right. Its really fast and works great!
This is a work in progress and I have several changes to make. Once I'm happy with it I'll make a jig for the tenons although it could easily be used with loose tenons.
got 5 charcuterie boards done in pine. Their tree. Gary picked them up and will apply the oil himself.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/DF3BB029-0762-4817-98B6-0951D2AC8270.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671321042)
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fun at the scout lock in. the board was a hit. Each member was given a challenge coin from our EMS system. yes that is sliced spam, cheese and King Hawaiian rolls.
Awesome!! Looks fantastic 👍
Looks like a great snack on that board. Add some herring in wine sauce to make it complete. digin_2
Doc, those pine charcuery churcucery charddany cheese boards look to me like a traditional bread board used for slicing standard bread loaves. They used to be popular before sliced bread became the next best thing. Pretty cool I think no matter what you call them. I like the blue stain effects on those.
they can do with what they will. yes the spread was fancy, with low sodium spam, and the bey best great value cheese slices. no one went hungry. we did splurge on the kings Hawaiian rolls. to go with the spam. I love the "live edge" board for the troop. it is so live, I think I could sense CO2 being converted to O2. cypress wood.
@doc henderson (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=41041) when I was growing up, those were called paddles, not charcuterie boards:D
Next, we will be eating snacks off my fathers belt! :o :o :o :snowball: :)
DWyatt- that's certainly what I got a handful of times when I was a kid.
I didn't make this bowl. I had saved a small walnut burl a while back, but didn't have anything to do with it. Then a buddy who turns brought an osage orange log over to mill. When he was leaving I told him to take the piece of walnut with the burl. He turned this bowl for me with it. Very neat. Cindy asked me to make something for her employee who is retiring this year, so I made this little charc board.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_521589893237688.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671485837)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_387440263583862.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671485854)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_2243591145822377.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671485870)
Another box beam today
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/beam_12_19_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671487828)
And the finished product ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/beam_3_12_20_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671567030)
is this one of those magic tricks you run the loop over the log to prove he is actually holding it up?
Did you walk around with it saying "We don't need no stinkin' forklift, who needs a stinkin' forklift?" :D :)
A fun pic with no strings attached :D
Tule, is there internal bracing like your torsion tables or more of just a U-shaped shell? Thanks.
Here's the fancy char............ Cheese board I made for a friend who gave me the walnut tree.
It turned out better than I thought, the oil really brought out the color
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/Reds_Board.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1671628590)
Quote from: doc henderson on December 21, 2022, 07:36:55 AM
Tule, is there internal bracing like your torsion tables or more of just a U-shaped shell? Thanks.
Doc, this beam is a little different; no bracing at all inside but a couple of lip stringers at the top. A couple of tricks to building this beam, which will squeeze over an existing header; I make the slot at the top a little narrower than the dimension at the plugged ends. The plugged ends will need to be final trimmed at job site to squeeze onto the existing rough opening. Because the center of this long beam is a little narrower, it will grip the overhead header and need little to no trimming. The second trick is to pull one of my end grain cookies from a library of cookies (pine, oak and walnut) that I keep specifically for plugging beam ends and fireplace mantels. The single cookie gets sandwiched between 2 pieces of scrap plywood oversized and then flattened and sanded. I send the sandwich through a re-saw, ending up with sort of end grain veneers and a stable backing that I then precision cut for each end of the beam. If you do it right, you cannot see the joint. Then it gets distressed and the whole thing looks like one piece.
This 3-1/4 sided box beam needs to sit on top of 2 dimensionally equal posts that I am standing with in the picture. These posts will be scribed on site and slipped onto the walls, so that the whole thing looks like we meant for it to happen. LOL
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Go_Big_2_Dec2122.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671657582)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Go_Big_1_Dec2122.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671657608)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Go_Big_3_Dec2122.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671657635)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Go_Big_4_Dec2122.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671657679)
Always amazing!
Thanks Tule. that is so cool. it is amazing how you can fool the eye. also use less material and end up with less weight. Was the wood worm eaten as it appears on the inside of the box? I would have assumed you would use end grain cut from the same beam/log, not go to the library. :)
We have a scissor trussed ceiling in the living room, and we have talked about a beam. the sheet rock joint gets cracks at the seam, from a bit of movement. we have talked about a beam, but a foe beam would be the way to go. It is at 16 feet height and 25 feet long. would that be one you would make in two section and if so how would you do the joint in the middle. would the parts be offset? would you distress the joint in place? If made off site, can it be powdered and then sprinkled with magic water and grow and assembled and installed on the ceiling? :D Thanks for your guidance oh WOC. It has been a magical journey, and we are glad to be inspired again by your projects.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221222_113529.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671730921)
With the 40 below wind chill outside I found the time to finish up this TV stand I made for my cabin.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221222_113328~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671731049)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68966/20221222_113335~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671731041)
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Pretty. Nice balance on the sapwood !
Quote from: doc henderson on December 22, 2022, 10:35:22 AM
Thanks Tule. that is so cool. it is amazing how you can fool the eye. also use less material and end up with less weight. Was the wood worm eaten as it appears on the inside of the box? I would have assumed you would use end grain cut from the same beam/log, not go to the library. :)
We have a scissor trussed ceiling in the living room, and we have talked about a beam. the sheet rock joint gets cracks at the seam, from a bit of movement. we have talked about a beam, but a foe beam would be the way to go. It is at 16 feet height and 25 feet long. would that be one you would make in two section and if so how would you do the joint in the middle. would the parts be offset? would you distress the joint in place? If made off site, can it be powdered and then sprinkled with magic water and grow and assembled and installed on the ceiling? :D Thanks for your guidance oh WOC. It has been a magical journey, and we are glad to be inspired again by your projects.
Hi Doc. Something like this I would ask for a photo of the livingroom to get a general idea of style and colour. This will determine the joint and possible metal in a joint. That's a LONG beam, so I am thinking maybe 3 pieces and on your scissors, maybe cladding them with matching joints (faux) depending. Half lap faux joint or simply end butt with subset wrapped metal depending. Steel can patina flat black or blued for a more modern motif, whereas copper, brass and bronze are more classic, but can be patina'd blue or green and something in between as well as brown. Lots of options here.
Starting with wood that is already worm eaten, partially rotted and pretty far gone will go a long ways to helping distress. Add a bent toothed sawblade and they don't call me the Wizard of Crap for nothing. From here, lots of suggestions on hand held tools, both power and not powered. Another secret; I love to mix oil and water on my finishes.
If you want to work this out online, love to be involved. Also, be thinking about the type of wood you have access to that will support the look you wish to achieve. Look forward to seeing a photo. I have lots of photos of the different fake beam do dads I do. :)
well thanks, and I will take you up on that, if my wife has not now changed her mind. :) also will be interested on fastening. i thought a 2x on the ceiling, but worried about keeping it flat (level) and strait if the joint/peak of the trusses in not close to dead on. thanks WOC. DOC! :D
Made a board to hold my wood stove utensils
on the left side you got a seal.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36761/20221222_112528.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671767228)
Quote from: rjwoelk on December 22, 2022, 10:48:49 PM
Made a board to hold my wood stove utensils
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36761/20221222_112528.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671767228)
Neat idea!
During today's blizzard Hank and I hung out in the shop. He kept a close eye on the wood stove to insure it was putting out the correct amount of heat. Once he barked "another stick of wood and while your up maybe a chew bone".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1334.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671769935)
I sanded and glued up end pieces for a book case I'm making.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5682.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1671769935)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5689.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1671769935)
Its all in the details.
Good looking work, Larry.
I started sanding and repairing a cedar chest that belonged to my wife's grandmother. My middle daughter wanted one. This will be one of her Christmas gifts. Due to the weather, it will not get any more coats of BLO prior to Christmas.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/500BC86B-6341-417A-910F-940FE41609F9.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671797310)
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I almost didn't cut the log this Table Top came from. It had no bark on it, some decay and stuff growing on it. Found it at very back of a lot clearers log pile.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/55962/IMG_8269.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671975804)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/55962/IMG_8273.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671975826)
Used epoxy to seal holes and weak areas then water based poly.
Beautiful table! How did you find the adhesion of the water base over the epoxy? nice work.
Thanks Tule , Once I filled everything it sat for a couple months, wanted to make sure epoxy was completely cured. Sanded it with 220 then sprayed the water based over the wood and epoxy areas can't tell any differences. I have used same process on other tables and so far no issues.
Will you share which topcoat/brand you are using?
I prefer Deft Interior/exterior water based, but it was out of stock. This table ended up using Minwax spar water based, it was okay to work with.
Quote from: Larry on December 22, 2022, 11:41:06 PM
During today's blizzard Hank and I hung out in the shop. He kept a close eye on the wood stove to insure it was putting out the correct amount of heat. Once he barked "another stick of wood and while your up maybe a chew bone".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1334.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671769935)
Larry:
You must be the only person with an organic low on fuel wood stove alarm.
Enjoy your alarm system.
GAB
He keeps my feet warm at night also! :D
Well, I haven't made a contribution here for a bit, so here is the latest. Cherry Bench #6, the last in this series.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221227_152714714.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672236239)
This is halfway between stool and bench, but I think has nice features.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221227_152641422.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672236329)
I made RO Octagonal legs for this one too using the hole saw method.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221227_152628997.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672236213)
No spalt on these legs but there is some fleck on a few faces.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221227_152728368.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672236446)
All in all, not bad.
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I just wish I could generate some buyers.
We also finished up another bunch of log carrier slings and I put a couple in the Egg Stand to see what happens. One is going in the mail today IF I can ship it for a reasonable amount. They wanted over 20 bucks for their oversized tube box yesterday. I decided to make my own 'box' and walked out. Back to try again today. The thing only weighs 1.2 pounds for pete's sake.
That's a great looking bench Tom! How about trying to stick it in a consignment shop in town or in Woodstock or something? Seems like some lovely pieces that the rich folk would love to have in their summer homes. My wife did that with her purses in various hippie stores locally and she got decent sales from it. With the quality of your work I'd think you could sell them, pay the consignment fee, and still come out ahead. Or find some hoity toity places in the big city that'll show your stuff...
Well, I am thinking about looking into it...again.. but I am assuming the disappointment I experienced years ago when I looked into it will resurface. Most of these shops get 40% of the sale price and that's a pretty big cut. Yes, I know about their costs, etc, but...
If I jack the price a bit to cover some of that loss, it can put the item out of reach and take a long time to sell. Still. I should look into it or else I will never know. Pricing these things fairly to cover my time, effort, and material remains very challenging yet still attract buyers.
I would like to see $375. from a bench like the one above, but I don't know that anybody would pay that north of NYC.
Eek! 40% is pretty high! I'm not sure what kind of take the shops were getting for the wife's bags. I can't imagine it's that much, but maybe it was. I think the alternative is taking it to craft shows and the like or dumb ol' Facebag or something. It's all tough as I think you are certainly at a fair price but it is one that removes it from most casual shopper's abilities. Oh yeah, Etsy? Did we already discuss that?
Where is the Forestry Forum shop when you need one? A place to list all kinds of member's handiwork? I don't know how to drive traffic to such a place, not to mention stealing some thunder from Etsy... @Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1)
The Forestry Forum has a "for sale" section. 5% goes to the Forum.
As to 40%, if it were less then I strongly suspect that shop would be full to the gills with way too many items on consignment (just waiting and waiting for the right customer). IMO
With all due respect, the FF does not represent my market. It represents my peers and mentors. :D
You got my juices flowing and I just blew 2 hours searching around locally on the web, not a lot of good fits for my stuff that I can see. There is a consignment shop in Kingston that takes 50% and sets the item prices as they like. If it's not bought in 60 days, you'd better pick it up or they will mark it down, store it away, and throw it out, their choice, and it becomes their property. Think I'll pass on that one. >:( Most shops have some kind of rules that you can't leave stuff there forever, either annual cleanouts, or they put time limits, or whatever they come up with.
Most of these shops are 'curated', meaning they only take what they like and think will sell, but not conflict with their own products or their best friends products. My wife does business with one, but they wouldn't accept certain things she made because they were better quality than the ones made by the owners 'friend' who never really sold much of the same type item. That store just gave all the vendors notice they were closing on January 1st for good. Big surprise there was that it took so long.
I found one place that looks to be a 'good fit', but they are not open until Friday, so I'll try to give them a call and see what their deal is.
I do plan on doing some shows this year, 3 years later than I wanted to start, but I sure could use some cash infusion now to get me there. The better shows are not until the summer tourist season. We have a lot of small festivals in the hills, and they can do well with the right mix.
I worried my suggestion of the FF shop may not be explained well enough.
I didn't mean the Sale section, I meant a more commercial site, open to the general public, where all the talented folks here could list/sell their stuff. It would basically be Etsy, so nevermind! It would be cool to see all the stuff y'all make in one pretty site, that looks like an online store.
OH no, I did get where you were going. Beenthere was just offering another thought. Believe me, if there were a market here for that type of stuff, I would gladly double the FF rate schedule, but shipping is another issue with these things.
I had an old EMS friend ask for one of those firewood slings. She lives in Ithaca (80 miles away?). The post office wanted 20+ bucks to mail it in their box. I made a box, brought it in today and it was $13.35 to mail the cheapest way. I just sent it and told her I would split the shipping cost. She declined my offer and wound up paying $43. for something I didn't think was worth it, but she wanted it.
I just came in from the shop after doing the 'cherry bench inventory' wherein I took a few more photos in group shots and recorded the final dimensions of each bench and put a number tag on them because I am getting confused.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221228_153452943.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672262080)
Tom,
How thick is that bench top? How much of the tenon sticks up into the mortise? I find/feel less than 2" does not hold well enough. Mine are through tenons if that makes any difference. Have you had any other experiences on how much tenon you need in the mortice?
I have a couple of benches at a local bait and tackle/outfitters shops "on consignment". They use them in the shoe department for the customers to try on shoes and boots. They have a sign that they are for sale. They sell real slow there but they are stored under better conditions than in my shed and I get a little advertising and keep good will with a local vendor. When you look for consignment partners, remember don't just look for furniture or craft shops.
I share your concern about not being able to get what something like that bench is worth. Good luck - you just need the right wife to come by and see it. (Forget the hubby's they think they can go make one with a hand saw, a hammer and drill. When the wife says "That's the one I want" set the hook. :D)
At first, I thought OGH had started a new trend of charcuterie boards on legs! :D :D :D
Night lights. I bought some led night light bases and just cut and engrave a piece of acrylic. The bases are remote controlled and can change to many different colors. Great gifts in 5 minutes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/20221228_175400.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672270573)
My granddaughter wrote to Santa saying she had good and bad days but tries to be good. At least she is honest. The other is my grandsons Retriever.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on December 28, 2022, 04:15:15 PM
OH no, I did get where you were going. Beenthere was just offering another thought. Believe me, if there were a market here for that type of stuff, I would gladly double the FF rate schedule, but shipping is another issue with these things.
I had an old EMS friend ask for one of those firewood slings. She lives in Ithaca (80 miles away?). The post office wanted 20+ bucks to mail it in their box. I made a box, brought it in today and it was $13.35 to mail the cheapest way. I just sent it and told her I would split the shipping cost. She declined my offer and wound up paying $43. for something I didn't think was worth it, but she wanted it.
I just came in from the shop after doing the 'cherry bench inventory wherein I took a few more photos in group shots and recorded the final dimensions of each bench and put a number tag on them because I am getting confused.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221228_153452943.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672262080)
Looks great! Your really doing nice work!! I personally like the slab legs the best.
Well I appreciate the kind words, they mean a lot coming from this group. I just have to find that outlet and today I spent a good deal of time working on that, at least on the research and pondering end. I am cross-eyed now from reading and flipping through pages. I have also been going through my inventory to see what I have. Some pieces require some touch up work before they can be offered again. SO that will likely start next week or sooner.
Howard. The seats on these benches/stools are between 1-3/4 and 2". The mortise is 1-5/8 deep on the 4 legged versions and the tenons are a close round fit with square shoulders now. I don't glue them, I use epoxy. It is, IMHO, much stronger and penetrates better and I do a follow-up fillet pour to have a nice shoulder transition. The strength is as good as it can be. Also, the legs on these are square, so the load is directly down. I take theses things and stand them up on edge at about 45°, then bounce all my body weight on them to see if I can hear anything. I have even tried to break them, no joy there. They are fine. If fact, the blind spline waterfall joints do very well just as a dry fit and I can sit on them just fine. I kind of laid back on the through tenons because any further wood movement makes the tenon stick up above the seat causing a bump and I hate that. I had to refinish one I gave as a gift and saw it a year later and took it back to fix.
Yes, I am aware there are other outlets and I have one in mind that I plan to talk to again. I dropped the ball over a year ago and need to pick that back up.
I don't think there is an easy answer, I think it's going to be a lot of little things.
Azmtnman, maybe you have an idea there!
Tom,
Thanks for the answer. Yes, the square shoulders would help provide more stability with a shorter tenon than my through tenon especially with the use of epoxy to weld them together. Good luck finding your special market but be careful - it could become a full time job requiring more time and energy than a proper retired guy wants. ;)
21",
Neat night lights. I like the idea of mood lights. Can you make a couple that light up to warn me what kind of mood my wife is in when i walk in the house and before I find out the hard way? ::) :D
21 very cool. are those a amazon deal or?
Howard that retirement thing is just a ruse. I don't have a pension or any of that stuff. I worked at two companies that promised pensions when I was hired and both pulled the pension plan less than a year before I was fully vested. I worked for one 18 years and the other 16. So although yes, technically I am retired in the eyes of the law, I have to work to pay taxes, land and school, buy food for the last week of the month, gas, beer, etc. With the economy as it is these last two years, we seem to be getting along a lot worse now than when I started this retirement thing. So it's no longer a game. I have to make some cash to get us buy or sell the house and figure something else out.
Hence my concern at finding some kind of regular outlet. I don't want to take a job at Harbor Freight, but I have seriously been thinking about it.
Well, in that case I hope you find a good steady market and a steady supply of free apprentices wanting to learn and willing to do the heavy lifting. Maybe it should be a paid course of study with you as the professor. If you want I can call for an emergency meeting of the design committee. ::) ;) ;D
OH, please don't do that. ;D ;D :D :D
Quote from: doc henderson on December 28, 2022, 09:19:04 PM
21 very cool. are those a amazon deal or?
I found them on Amazon. Bought a 4 pack to try for the grandkids stocking staffers. I am going to buy a 20 pack now that I have had a chance to try them. They run on 3 aa batteries or a USB plug with a remote controller. These have the 3.15 inch opening 4.5 mm wide and I couldn't find 4mm cast acrylic so I am using 3mm without a problem. Flip the image and engrave the back for best results. Not sure how long they will last but I know the grandkids don't turn off lights so it will be a good test.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on December 28, 2022, 09:20:23 PMHoward that retirement thing is just a ruse.
Some of you guys understand why a 79 year old fart that got downsized at age 51 is still making sawdust. Not complaining, just trying to avoid the grave dust.
Tom, those benches look, to me, like they are begging for a high class choir to stand on them to sing.
Quote from: Magicman on December 29, 2022, 07:41:54 AM
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on December 28, 2022, 09:20:23 PMHoward that retirement thing is just a ruse.
Some of you guys understand why a 79 year old fart that got downsized at age 51 is still making sawdust. Not complaining, just trying to avoid the grave dust.
I get it.
Keep on keepin on :)
Quote from: Magicman on December 29, 2022, 07:41:54 AM79 year old fart
Lynn,
I take issue with the "Old Fart" reference; 79 is not that old (...so maybe you're ~1/2 right...)!
Making a custom candle scent display for my regional directors wife who has a "boutique". I finally got the wood sterilized and planed and started the rings to hold the glass closhe.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/3589D89B-9821-4D69-9970-E01F0194909B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672324525)
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>
I did jump the tracks once and ding my ring. may need to make another. they may get painted and if so, it will prob. be ok.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/DDF588A6-864F-4D8A-A987-3F855B480E7E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672324267)
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I been working nights, so woke up at 2 am. I knew I might should wait, but who has time for that. :snowball: 8) :)
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these are photos from her trip to France to buy stuff, that I am replicating.
fortunately, I made the template on the engraver and saved it, so I just had to pull it up and make a new circle template and it was the exact same size. I had a board along the back edge to register the distance from the back, and then clamped the template. I think I was going too fast for clearing the stringy oak shavings/chips.
Clever idea, on one board for display.
See the cloches are abound from Amazon. Gives some ideas for gifts.
Amazon.com: WHOLE HOUSEWARES | Mini Cloche Glass Dome With Wooden Base Set of 3 | DIY Snow Globes | For Display of Food, Plants, and Candles | Glass Cloche Dome Centerpiece : Home & Kitchen (https://www.amazon.com/Whole-Housewares-Glass-Display-Cloche/dp/B07RP11L28/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=glass+cloche&qid=1672327678&sr=8-15)
Thanks Doc
Doc. I see a cnc router in your future with all the multiples you make.
Here's the other 2 night lights I made the one with flowers really surprised me how nice the light spreads.
The other 2 straight on so they don't look fuzzy like the previous pics.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/20221229_101843.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672329493)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/20221229_101857.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672329492)
Copper infrastructure today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/office_12_29_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672335201)
No pex 😂. I see you were testing that OSB if it would burn 🔥 😂. Looks good!
Oh man, drillin a 6 pack of studs was fun.
The front end of the building is timber framed and I ran utilities above the plate timbers. The back end is conventional framing where the plumbing is for a little easier time.
I thought it looked a little heavy for the little fish camp! ;)
Just finished a meeting with clients who flew in from Lake Geneva in this unfinished building. Dirt debris and all.... Coffee and pastries on sawdust and concrete. Going to be a busy 2023 :)
Quote from: Don P on December 29, 2022, 11:37:20 PM
Oh man, drillin a 6 pack of studs was fun.
Don, this is the building you gave me advise on a couple years back. I appreciate your input, thanks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/timber_office_12_30_22.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672428186)
Happy Birthday, Rob!
happy birthday oh WOC! :)
Happy Birthday WOC. Happy New Years also.
Can't wait to follow your next journey.
Happy Birthday Rob, can't wait to see some fishing pictures when you get the fish camp done.
Happy Birthday Tule! One of these days I will do at least some small timber frame project.
Those will be very nice Doc.
Just about to get this shed that I started in the spring. Its based on Jeff's Slanty Shanty that I saw in his yard at the pig roast. It will house my sawmill blades and probably long handled tools. I built it by the garage, but Cindy didn't like it there, so I moved it today. I was impressed that my tractor handled it easily. I still need to finish the tin roof. With that being said, I may use some phenolic resin sheets that I have instead of tin. I'll know more tomorrow.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_2400558836770618~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672524908)
Happy Birthday Rob! The king of fine woodworking! We will let you slide on crap 💩 for awhile 😂
I went out this morning and removed the little bit of corrugated tin I had previously installed on the shed roof. I then cut some sheets of 1/8" white phenolic resin to fit each side. I made a ridge cap out of some white aluminum trim coil. I had to predrill the phenolic to put the screws in.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/received_1355990541815184.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672597001)
A friend had a sycamore tree cut out of his yard and I took the bottom log. Let it sit for awhile and sawed it up last week. Caught it just right spalted sycamore.
tv
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This stack is one log 14 foot long (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16734/D5627839-6F25-4508-83AB-8B235C4C81A3.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672606188)
So made a charcuterie board out of the knot slab
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Thomas the train table for grand nephew Christmas
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8
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This Thomas table I made for my grandson 20 years ago.
My wife needed another end table.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/773BA9EF-0585-4B29-B357-24E98692B7B8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672866104)
Granddaughter needed a bunk bed for her American girl dolls
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Shoe bench for the garage
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27386/30F483DD-863C-49ED-8074-DD8FB3A351EC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1672866095)
printer stand for my office
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,
Too cold for more now. Heading to South Carolina until April 8)
Those are beautiful Stan, especially that end table!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1407.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1673055975)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1422.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1673055975)
Putting square pegs in round holes. The first eight didn't go real good but than I got the hang of it and the second eight went great.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1420.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1673055975)
Scribing legs so the book case sits on all four legs instead of two.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1421.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1673055975)
Looking for glue squeeze out with a black light. If found, I can clean it up with hot water and a tooth brush. Probably only works with hide glue which I often use on this kind of work. Final sanding before slopping on finish.
Nice work Larry!
Ebony pegs?
just need time to wrap up and protect from shipping.
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may do some sanding, but the client states she can do the finish.
Quote from: Andries on January 06, 2023, 10:38:40 PM
Nice work Larry!
Ebony pegs?
Thanks
Ebonized white oak pegs. I was trying to keep them lighter so the grain would show through but ended up just making them black.
I worked in Cameroon in west central Africa for many years and used to visit the Marche de Fleurs (Flower Market) where they had a lot of crafts like carvings, bowls etc and there was lots of Ebony items for sale. All was good till I walked around back and saw the ground was paved with flattened Kiwi black shoe polish cans. ::) :D
Third world country....Fiebing's Leather Dye works much better! :D
I'm Making 20 Walnut Stair treads for my mom's house- stairs going to the basement. I milled these over the last 6 years. The newest ones were air dried for about a year. They were milled 3.5" thick and spent 3 months in a kiln. This is the first time using the mill and planer in the new shop. Dust and cord rigged up temporarily. This last week I jointed and brought the thickness to 3 inches. Now I'm jointing/planing the edges square to faces using my MP100 Mill mounted planer(which acts like a jointer). Final tread depth is 11.25". Most treads will end up 44" wide, but several at the bottom will be wider. I'm prepping the stock, but Bob the trim carpenter is doing the installation. I will be planing and prepping the risers and some other material for the stairs just as soon as the electrician finishes installing the outlet and plug for my new 20" spiral head Grizzly planer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/Moms_stair_treads1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1673236618)
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I should know better than to put this up right behind Brad's beautiful walnut. But what the heck. I showed this on the other thread but realized this morning I never put it up here as a contribution. Just a very simple, but very sturdy RO chair.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230103_164419834.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672786316)
Its' a waterfall blind spline joint attaching back to seat. The slab had a cup in it, which suits a chair, but made the joint a little tricky to get square. Just using up material.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230101_152747481.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672698998)
Surprisingly, the chair is a lot more comfortable than it looks. I didn't see that coming. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221220_112735676_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671630314)
Looks great Tom, and the grain matching is beautiful!
Brad, I want to see those stairs when they are done!
Tom, I may have to try a chair like that. I may have a piece of wood sitting around in the kiln that is just right.
I started working on some benches for someone made from bowling lane. I've worked with bowling lane before, but this is more of a pain than previously. This has more nails in it. I've trashed 4 circ saw blades. I bought some "demo" blades made by dewalt that are absolute junk. I'll have some pictures of what I have so far tomorrow. I'm putting riteleg legs on them, so they won't take long to make once I get all the nail cutting done.
Quote from: Brad_bb on January 08, 2023, 11:00:32 PM
I'm Making 20 Walnut Stair treads for my mom's house- stairs going to the basement. This last week I jointed and brought the thickness to 3 inches. Final tread depth is 11.25". Most treads will end up 44" wide, but several at the bottom will be wider.
I agree with Firefighter, I would love to see the stairs when done. I'm curious on the design to need 3" treads, unless the thickness is just for looks.
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Ends are capped with cherry that is screwed on to help support the lane as its not really stable. Screw holes are plugged with cherry. The sides are capped with some thin pieces of brazilian cherry. That covers up all the nails and ugly saw marks. One bench will be 4' long and the other 6'.
We had a client on a log home job that decided they wanted a window in a wall after the fact, 7 blades later ::).
Someone was remarking on stair tread thickness. One thing to think about if you have an order for an open riser set of stairs, the way the building code reads, nowhere on a set of stairs can have a hole a 4" ball can pass through. A "perfect" rise/run is 7" rise/11" run. A 3" thick tread + the max 4" gap works. Most state codes allow up to an 8" rise so to cover anything 4" thick would not be wrong if you have shorts and are sawing for stock.
Benches look great Bill, and those Ritelegs are pretty too! Nice re-purposing for that material. You gonna add a stretcher on the bottom? I can't quite tell how tall those legs are. Should look great with a finish!
This is the first time I've used Ritelegs. I really like them. I will try to promote using them more. I did put a stretcher/shelf on it. It is just a piece of 2x10 pine that is planed to about 1 3/8". I think finish will be glossy polycrylic. I also have some lacquer that I'm considering using. A weekend at the firehouse will give me a good opportunity to get them finished.
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I've not had time for personal woodworking projects for quite some time. But when my wife's boss's father asks me to make his wife a box for her birthday, I find the time.
The instructions were simple enough... Cherry, 12x8x8, simple, big hole on the inside.
I think I nailed it. 🤣🤣
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Looks great, but I don't know if you got that hole right.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on January 09, 2023, 09:13:06 AM
I should know better than to put this up right behind Brad's beautiful walnut. But what the heck. I showed this on the other thread but realized this morning I never put it up here as a contribution. Just a very simple, but very sturdy RO chair.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230103_164419834.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672786316)
Its' a waterfall blind spline joint attaching back to seat. The slab had a cup in it, which suits a chair, but made the joint a little tricky to get square. Just using up material.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230101_152747481.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672698998)
Surprisingly, the chair is a lot more comfortable than it looks. I didn't see that coming. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20221220_112735676_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671630314)
Nice job. If you make another rustic chair I think it would look and match better if you had some rustic legs on the chair 🪑 with the live edge you have already. Like this. Older guy in Idaho that I went elk hunting with made this. When we were hunting he said pick some dead down wood out and I did of some big stuff
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/1E0EC7B2-231A-40B4-B4CF-A73B921BF3F4.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1673830123)
Great looking metalspinner!!!
Nice looking box Metalspinner!
I just finished a small box myself, I promised my mother in law it would be the first project I finished in the new shop.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_7584~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674063327)
I also finished a couple small baby doll bassinets for a neighbor, she gives them to her grand children.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_7582.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674063499)
While moving stuff over to the new space I found a burl I forgot I had. I decided to try to turn a bowl out of part of it, poured the epoxy last night.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/LMKW4090.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674063686)
Looks good Tom! Shop to 👍
I was thinking, DanG it must be new, I can see the walls :D.
On the boring stair rules of thumb I should have put another in there if you are ever making a set. 7" rise/11" run is considered a perfect stair. Another rule of thumb is "2 rises plus one run equals 25" .. 7+7+11=25. At the extreme limit 8" + 8" + 9"=25. I was told this by an old carpenter years ago, it has to do with our gait while climbing but does seem to work.
"2 rises plus one run equals 25"
Don - Another thing to keep in mind is those number are only for residential construction. Commercial code & the ADA (ANSI 117) both limit the rise to a max. of 7" with a tread minimum of 11". No tread height over 7" is allowed, and no tread width under 11" is allowed.
In my case it "Whatcha Made", and its two mobile altars from ash for my church for outdoor and informal services. It took 3+ months to make and they are now in my dry kiln awaiting delivery after recovery from my hernia repair. Finish is tung oil (1 coat) and polyurethane (top) with 4 coats.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/IMG_0352.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674133481)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/IMG_0360.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674131893)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/IMG_0362.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674131892)
Very nice job 👍
OGH,
What angle did you use on the back of the chair? I have been catching up on your thread where you described the chair design, still not caught up, but saw the angle there. Very nice by the way!
kelLOGg,
Did you put together the pipe and side bars? Great job on those!
I had a metal shop in Durham bend 3/4" pipe but I did the welding and installed them. Thanks
I posted questions on the General Board about grinding hard-to-reach welds that were very helpful.
keiLOGg is the middle shelf adjustable?
Yes it is but requires a wrench. Hopefully it is adjusted only once.
When not doing portant stuff like hiking with the dog and fishing I turn replacement spindles. Most are for big old mansions and could be anything from stair balusters to porch columns. Woodturners these days mostly turn bowls and maybe pens. They wouldn't know a spindle if it bit em which leaves the field wide open for me.
Today's project was turning a replacement for a lost spindle on a very old pump organ that is being restored.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5890.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674179125)
I don't finish them as its really hard to get a color match plus everybody sees color slightly different it seems.
While turning I always think of the skilled craftsman that made this stuff a 100 years ago. Probably worked in some kind of small factory doing the same thing a lot and getting really good at it. I bet they could turn a spindle like I made today in a fraction of the time it took me. Wonder what their lives were like?
Porch columns😳how big is your lathe?
Larry, that's very nice. I enjoy spindle tuning. I'm a turning odd ball, I've been turning off and on for several years, but never made a bowl
kelLOGg, I can only turn 30" on my lathe but I have a extension bed type thing I cobbled together to do the long stuff. Its not efficient, but it gets the job done on the few full length posts I have turned. If I did more I would get a proper set up.
A lot of times only a section needs to be replaced.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_4902.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674182591)
This one was on a 12,000 square foot mansion. The owner got a bid for a new post from a company that does them on a regular basis. Can't remember but the bid was way up in the four figures but the killer was the long lead time. I turned a part to replace the rotten section in a couple of days for a few hundred.
QuoteWhile turning I always think of the skilled craftsman that made this stuff a 100 years ago.
Back 100 years, the spindles were likely turned on a lathe that spun the square while a shaping back knife with the correct pattern was passed by the spinning blank. The whole spindle shaped in one pass. Will look for some photos of those knives or the lathes. Baseball bats come to mind, although there were craftsmen that turned custom-made bats for individual players as well. Knives like these:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfbklfrTK1AOr this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LYLqXP9ztMNice turning work Larry. Have done it a few times, but often had to repeat and start over due to slight mistakes. Can't put that wood back once it is turned off. 8)
I was trying to get my mind around how the first videos knives worked. That second video is wild...
Nice Larry, are you doing that with the original as a guide or are you free handing it?
Also, hey kevin, get your watermark out of the way so we can see what's happening!
A General lathe! I have one of those!
I am in the middle of a "production" run of turned parts and often think about turning craftsmen back in the day.
A friend of mine buy lots of equipment at auctions. He picked up a wood lathe that must be 100 years old. The lathe must have been set up for one operation. The bed of the lathe shows wear where the turner kept placing his tool over and over creating a worn impression. Pretty cool to see.
My buddy cleaned up the lathe mostly to use as a show piece. Then one of his guys was moving it with a fork lift and dropped it breaking the cast iron leg. 😳🙄
Larry, I was late seeing it and now... I've been wondering every time your last post goes by, what species was that table and what is the black light doing?
My mind wanders in that direction often when working on old stuff. I'm at a switch of builders where I am right now, must have been around 1911... and the current client isn't happy with me. Must be a tough corner :D
Don it is cherry with a history. Salvaged after it was uprooted by the 2019 Rogers Ar. tornado at the Pinnacle Golf Course.
The black light shows up any glue squeeze out so I can clean it up with hot water and a toothbrush. The black light turns the glue a yellow/green color....at least it does with the hide glue I normally use.
And here are a couple of pictures of the completed case. I have two folks interested in having one made but I'm having trouble coming up with a price. Should have kept better track of my time. It sells for $2,000 at Thos Moser.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5872.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674230824)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_5879.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674230824)
a custom job could be priced higher. folks see a mass produced something in a store, and ask if I can make it. when it costs more and they say it was only 30 bucks at the store I took the picture of it in, and I should then say go get it at the store. My stuff often is from sentimental wood and engraved for the recipient.
I got my drill/screwdriver holder done and in. It's not top notch quality but it's quick and dirty kick edited by admin. I'm pleased. I expected to put it elsewhere until the length of it made that a problem. I'd already had a shelf over the freezer here and as I passed by, one day, I thought it may work. It did! I added the shelf to this contraption and it worked out well. Battery charging, bit, and drill/driver holding and room to grow. Good stuff.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/Screenshot_20230121-171344_Gallery.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674339284)
@aigheadish (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53516) Pic is too far away, need a closer up.
I finally got some work benches built.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/0E6019A0-1926-4D4F-8D6A-547BCEFA1828.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1674436086)
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A 4' x 8' and a 4' x 4'. The smaller one is on locking casters to butt up to the 8 footer if needed or to use as an out feed table for my planer or large table saw.
Why is it most guys on this forum have workbenches that look like they should be clear coated and put into a nice house for dinner?
I was wondering that myself. :D
Looking good. You will definitely appreciate the benches.
I spend up to 10-12 hours a day everyday at my bench earning a living. It deserves to be the nicest work surface. 😉
Quote from: Crusarius on January 22, 2023, 10:05:47 PM
Why is it most guys on this forum have workbenches that look like they should be clear coated and put into a nice house for dinner?
You obviously have not seen my work surfaces! :D
Hey, if you can actually see the work surface your much further ahead than I am :)
Closer shot of the drill holder, it's not art but it works and has the benefit of the big shelf on top, which I didn't want to lose:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230123_192751.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674561455)
aig I really like your use of space with a combo workbench/freezer! :D :D :D :D
I think he did that so he cold have an ice pop while waiting for batteries to charge. Pretty forward thinking if you ask me. :D
Hahaha, I do occasionally use the freezer top as a workbench!
The shelf there was one of the first things I did in that garage and one of the best. It is right outside the door going into the house and it has been great for holding junk like those paper towels and it was holding all the chargers.
The drill holder, once I'd basically had it done, was much bigger/wider than I anticipated. I was planning on putting it on the french cleats I've got heading to the shop, in the little alcove hallway thing, but didn't want to take that much space with it, not to mention needing to rearrange all the junk under the cleats (and I don't have easy power there). I assumed I'd have to rebuild, so I looked at the holder, then looked at the french cleats, then the holder, then I just let it sit on the bench for a week or so, then I noticed the space under the shelf but above the freezer! Eureka!
Trapped inside the shop because of the Arkansas blizzard of '23 I decided to make a Whac-A-Mole mallet to complement the holdfasts I made a few days ago.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1594.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674788732)
The head is black locust and the handle hole is taper reamed on both sides. Maple wedge and glued with West Systems G-Flex. Handle was dried to 2% MC so it will expand and lock in place.
And than the power went out....I have a back up generator which will power light loads so I did hand work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1596.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674788732)
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Worked on a knife. Filed and sanded the finger guard and hand sanded the blade to 1,000 grit for a satin finish. I forgot to put my makers markers on before heat treating so I have a problem. Maybe I'll explore etching. Fitted the handle and I'll finish tomorrow.
Any other knife makers here?
Quote from: Larry on January 26, 2023, 10:21:34 PMAny other knife makers here?
Can't call myself a knife maker, but I do enjoy pounding hot steel on my old Söderfors anvil :D
What wood is the handle on your mallet?
Surprise!
Larry is an amazing wood worker and bladesmith. Jeez! Good work Larry.
Larry - Not Knives, but I do a little forging. I noticed your hold downs were forged and thought about bringing it up the other day. All your work looks great, both steel and wood.
A few pictures of stuff from the last couple years. Nothing great, I still have a lot of room for improvement.
A business card holder for my wife's desk at work, and an extra rose.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_3669.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674822445)
Gift's for the family for Christmas a couple years ago
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_4654.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674822641)
Some wall hooks and such
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_4901.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674822777)
Excellent work Tom! I'm just a hack when it comes to forging. I would love to have your skills and knowledge about the craft.
TT, the mallet handle is black walnut. Strength wise walnut is not the best handle choice so I kept it a little on the heavy side.
Playing with plastic. Trying to fix the dust collection problem for 4 inch stock on my new Bosch Glide. Started by building a plastic hood.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_3559.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674835337)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_3566.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674835339)
First try is a failure but was fun learning to use the new laser for acrylic projects.
Engine cover for a SpaceX booster???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/7_ft_diameter_torsion_box_build.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674838987)
Quote from: Larry on January 27, 2023, 10:44:39 AM
I'm just a hack when it comes to forging. I would love to have your skills and knowledge about the craft.
Ha! I'm just a hack for sure. Maybe the picture make stuff look better then they are? I didn't get started until a few years ago. I spent a little time in the forge in '19-'20, then life got in the way the last 2 years and I haven't gotten out there much. Now that the wood shop is done I hope to spend more time in both shops this year.
A couple more pictures I found of some hooks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_5679.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674840195)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_5620.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674840246)
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_5636.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674840244)
I made this table for my wife 2 years ago. I have an idea floating around in my head for a similar style coffee table with a piece of metal "art' on the ends.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_4287.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1674840523)
Quote from: tule peak timber on January 27, 2023, 12:03:43 PM
Engine cover for a SpaceX booster???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/7_ft_diameter_torsion_box_build.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674838987)
I was thinking a round pool table.
Quote from: tule peak timber on January 27, 2023, 12:03:43 PM
Engine cover for a SpaceX booster???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/7_ft_diameter_torsion_box_build.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1674838987)
And I thought it was a helipad for the roof of your fish camp :)
I think it's a round tuit. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40841/442C2DB1-CCC1-4704-A013-AAD10B4E1666.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1675220917)
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Needed a new door for the store going from the kitchen to the showroom. Got a little creative.
How did you do that? Laser? Woodburner? Neat. Looks like you got a good deal on a large box of carriage bolts! :D
A laser is way above my pay grade. I cut it out with my jigsaw then sanded and or filed the sharp edges down. Certainly had to be careful some of the petals depending on where they are are quite delicate. I have a piece of lexan that will go on either side to help protect it.
Yeah I'm not a big fan of carriage bolts but they do have their place. Figured I'd use up as many as I could :D
Looks great 👍! Get a picture when it's in place also
Doing a suite of Redwood tops to a width spec. We do this by taking out pie shaped pieces from the center of wider slabs and reasonably match the grain up again at glue up. Also, more fake timber posts this week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Redwood_Bartop_2_Feb0223.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1675381829)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Redwood_Bartop_1_Feb0223.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1675381862)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/countertop_w_sink_cut_out_Feb0223.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1675382003)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Post_1_Go_Big_Feb0123.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1675382046)
One of those projects that got started but never finished. Picked up a Rockwell/Delta 6 X 48" combination sander for near nothing. It would be a huge upgrade over my Grizzly but needed lots of work. Stripped it completely down, installed new bearings, sandblasted, and gave it new paint.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1641.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1675653324)
Than it sat.....I have a great Oakley edge sander and a Delta disc sander so I wasn't really motivated.
Thought it about time and I can finish it while its still cold out. Pulled a new old stock 3-phase Marathon motor out of my rat hole. I had a spare Teco VFD to power it. My thought is combination sanders run the disc far to fast while the belt is on the slow side. The VFD will give me variable speed to meet the requirements. Pulled the motor end bells to check the bearing grease. Hooked up the VFD and it all works.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1643.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1675653324)
One can say that the dust collection on these old machines did not SUCK. I going to fab up something tomorrow. Have to figure out how to mount the VFD than get this thing back in production.
I was cleaning up the other day and pulled down a box, I couldn't remember what was in it. The snake is still awol :D
Receipt and all, it was a gallon of epoxy wood filler from '03, I had used about half on a log home resto job and forgotten about it. I was about to chuck it and, like old milk, I had to stick my face in it and see what had grown. The stuff was pliable. I kneaded up a handful and then figured I might as well do something useful with it. Looking around... I'm probably not a bladesmith but I made a new old keyhole saw :D
Left it overnight in the same unheated barn it has been in all these years, and it set up, 20 year old filled epoxy, I'm amazed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/knife.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1675690590)
Not sure if it is as good as half a roll of duct tape but it should do the job. ;D
A. Simple Croc rack. Discovered my wife was addicted to Crocs we have a tiny master closet so made use of the last remaining space.
My Wife Is Addicted To Crocks, Bringing Them Out From Under The Bed - YouTube (https://youtu.be/Zp5stprLrIo)
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Got it installed
I can't believe I am saying this but the painted side looks really nice! The natural side, of course looks better, but that paint really pops out the rosette! Nicely done!
Nice job! Looks great installed!
Yeah it bothered me to paint that nice looking wood but was pleasantly surprised with the end result. Being a commercial kitchen I wasn't exactly sure if the natural finish would satisfy the health inspector or not and didn't really care to find out. The customers and the boss are enjoying it so I'll take it as a win.
I agree with OGH. beautiful work nicely done.
Beautiful work. Can't wait to see the knob set you chose.
I figured that was the reason for the paint and it looks good. I think smooth and non porous is fine back of house, poly should work just as well as paint.
Quote from: 21incher on February 09, 2023, 10:13:11 AM
Beautiful work. Can't wait to see the knob set you chose.
This door isn't going to get a lock set or handles, even though I'd like a nice wrought iron or twisted bittersweet branch handles on it. The oval cutout is the handle. The door is hung on double action saloon style hinges. They are constantly pushing bakery racks and produce carts back and forth and anything sticking out will catch the racks. The center of the batter board is set at the handles of the carts to hopefully take the brunt of the abuse from being used.
still working and progressing on the ERC cookie tables. Dallas brought some stuff from a bow bear hunt he did back in 2013. will add these to the void and epoxy areas.
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he initially did not want to put anything in there as he thought it would not be seen. now I may convince him to do some led underlighting. we can drill in from the under side. ;) 8) :)
the first few pics are after sanding the globby rough pour off and then doing multiple thick table top epoxy pours. as I learned from the Wiard of Crap (WOC) @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) we will do thin layers of table top epoxy, sand and repeat, not a quarter inch thick layer all at once that make cedar look like a cheap souvenir at a truck stop in western Kansas.
POP!!!!
That looks good! Did it have to be sanded to 40000 grit to maintain clarity for subsequent pours?
no. we went to 220 before the next pour. @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) taught me to do thinner layer of table top epoxy and sand between. the key is to not have swirls in the wood that will show through. any scratches in the top help to bond the next coat, and they disappear. These were done in 2 inch pours with casting epoxy for the void. Now Dallas understands all the steps. He thought it would be quick and easy. these are rustic table and will fall somewhere between thrown together, and mid west rustic. Dallas is very pleased and amazed with how they look. He did keep asking if the sanding was good enough. That was to get the raised area all flash for the top. I will do more thin layers with sanding between.
the first 2 inch pour was mixed with a drill and lots of air entrained that did not come out. It sort of creates an translucent shelf. this would help diffuse the led light if we put that in. I think some up lighting of bear claws would be unique.
Doc , although we use a lot of epoxy, most of it is in the wood or ground away during the finish process. Pics of some tops that are getting prepped this morning after two thin coats of epoxy. A soft silicone spreader is handy to get even thin coats on that are correctible for flaws like bubbles, suck outs, etc in-between coats, prior to a final finish.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bartop_1__2_13_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676305975)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/bartop_2_2_13_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676306003)
glad you are chiming in. do you do a final finish with poly for UV protection, or the hard wax oil. Dallas likes the gloss finish.
the pics are of the still wet surface, and was still leveling. I have used plastic spreader also that seem to work ok. the yellow autobody ones, or a wider one for large surfaces. still learning, Thanks for all the experience sharing Tule!
These tops will get shot with Awlcraft acrylic because it can be polished. Yes on the UV protection!
Doc, I never power mix epoxy because of bubbles. Also, the instructions for the epoxy I use says "Mix by hand only, do not use a power mixer." ;D
I am surprised neither of you guys mentioned using a torch. I use as a light wipe across the top after pouring to let the bubbles out, then watch it for about 1/2 hour off and on, for any new bubbles. For thick pours (which I rarely do) you can torch it by layers as you go. I also sand with 220 between coats.
I haven't tried that Awlcraft yet, they sure are proud of that stuff.
we "release" bubbles with a professional heat gun. you have to stay back with the air flow as to not move the epoxy around, esp. after it starts to set. I read the directions but on the bottom pour did not care so much. neat effect, or at least that is my story and I am sticking with it. :D I will sand and repour a few more times.
I need to get an old lab mixer/stirrer with the magnet in the bottom. I have quart cups I bought a case of 100 of and they have marks for all the different ratios.
I used to have two of those guns, but I guess my son needed them more than I did. ;D The torch is really quick and heating also allows the epoxy to flow smoother if it is setting too quick.
Couple years back now, the WOC told me to always mix by weight and I have been dong that ever since.
I have the trigger mapp gas torch and have used it as well.
What is the best way to cut/join a mitered counter corner?
I would make a template with some decent birch plywood using that as a pattern to cut the counter top.
Quote from: JRWoodchuck on February 15, 2023, 11:42:15 AM
What is the best way to cut/join a mitered counter corner?
With a circular saw, laminate face down. Belt sander to fine tune.
If it is vey wide, you can kerf it. that is using a straight edge and running between the two halves of the miter with a circular saw. any slight deviation may match the other half in theory. the two side have to be held in place, but not clamped/pulled together, as this will pinch the blade as you finish.
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these were book matched spalted sycamore. with the twisting they went form 2 inches to just over an inch after flattening. I made them for my cousin, and used penetrating (thin viscosity) epoxy. this is used to stabilize punky wood. Mike joked I must of use $600.00 of epoxy, I just smiled, but he was not too far off. the book match was perfect off the mill, but off when finished due to the twist that I had to saw/plane out.
Nice 👍. Did you just flatten with the mill ?
Yes. after they were dry, I put them back on and wedged the high opposite corners to take an equal amount off the high sides, so it was overall the least amount removed, then sanded. I do not think they fit my planer at 20 inch, but did go through the sander at 24 inches. they got the stabilizing and rot filling epoxy. the edges had the cracks from the log, and that got filled with epoxy mixed with sawdust from the slabs, and then streaked with a brush to mimic the live edge but further stabilize it. Thanks again @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190)
To clamp the two pieces together Rockler sells this.
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Doc your Sycamore top looks terrific. 8)We spent a lot of time developing the knife edge fit and spline to esure allingnment at the installation site no matter what the underlayment situation is (hopefully flat !).
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We had the issue of it floating in the air except for the equivalent of a 2 x 4 top. I like the spline you can see I did biscuits. do you put a slight 1° back angle to make sure the top fits tight? We did that on trim the forms a miter to be sure the visible line were tight. still need to go back and do a full top application to go across the joint.
Yes, a hand lapped slight back bevel. The spline is also a very tight fit.
Meanwhile back at SpaceX.... :o
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Zapping the space project with a ray gun
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Make sure you clean that ray gun out or it's going to be the dead ray gun 😂.
Nice shirt!
That would make a fine-looking window with stain glass.
Tomorrow the torsion box skin goes on.
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On the mitered counters you don't find that the back bevel causes the counter to 'peak' once they're brought together tight?
No, you don't cut the bevel steep enough to make it want to push up. You want the bevel just enough to make sure he top surface touches before the bottom of the joint.
The method used for the joint would depend on what material your counter is made of. My earlier post was assuming you were talking about a laminate countertop, which is what the brackets Dough poster are intended for. With a wood countertop the full spline method Tule posted would be the best.
Tule is the torsion all solid wood or is there some ply stuff in there for stability? looks great.
Gotcha these are solid wood walnut counters. Thanks for the replies.
Quote from: doc henderson on February 21, 2023, 11:34:57 AM
Tule is the torsion all solid wood or is there some ply stuff in there for stability? looks great.
The bottom and top skins are both 1/2" thick with the top 1/2" being 3/8" walnut veneer and 1/8" mdf. The bottom is splined together Russian birch plywood. There are 2" of Russian birch around the edge, most of which will be routed away for a flying saucer look and 1" of Russian birch in a mounting bolt pattern, surrounding the center. The additional 1" from the mounting pattern to the bottom of the mdf is structural foam, as are the rays of structural foam at 2" thick. No water based or gas emitting glues as this becomes a closed chamber. The little bit of structural adhesive I used, I let gas out for several days. This will be a torsion box with the appearance of solid walnut at 3" thick, 7' in diameter and 2 people can pick it up.
I'm building this console table. I'm not a welder, so I had someone weld up the base. The top and shelves are red oak. I cut off the end and glue underneath to make it look thicker and then add some other pieces on the side to give it depth all the way around. This will be stained a dark brown color.
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Nice clean look ! I sure like the light /dark contrast
Thanks Tule. I finished the table today and will deliver it tomorrow on my way to work. I think it turned out pretty nice. I wasn't happy with the black paint that I sprayed on the base, so I brushed minwax polycrylic on it and I like it a lot better now.
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I started working on a table out of ash. This is the first time I've really worked with ash and I like it so far. Seems to be machine well. I just finished drying a bunch of 8/4. The wood dried nice and straight and flat. This will be a 42x42 farmhouse table, bar height. The legs will be two pieces of 8/4 glued up. The top will be 6/4, which means I have a bunch of planing to do.
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Table looks good. I like the finish you used on the red oak.
I used ash for bathroom cabinets in the shop and get lots of compliments on them....of course some have said they would look better painted. ???
I posted about a combination sander I've been restoring a few weeks ago. I put it all together and it would not track the belt. The problem was the casting was broke that held the tracking mechanism. Two solutions, build up the casting with braze and re-machine or machine a part to replace the cast iron. I chose to machine a part which is on the left.
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Every shop needs a Bridgeport sitting off in a corner.
And the mostly completed restoration. Runs great, and I fiddled with the dust collection so its ok with that also. Huge improvement over the Grizzly that I used to have.
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Larry I think I have the same sander sitting in my shed that I got from a school tool purchase that is missing a few things. Haven't got around to seeing what all is missing but your post has me excited about it so thank you for posting!
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I finished another simple raised planter today to replace one that was damaged. I did some minor design changes. Added the 2X2 blocks in the corners. Previously when I built one I used the same fasteners to hold the legs and the bed together. In this case I just made a box and then added the legs. I can see benefits to that as it will stack easier because I can build the planter, store the legs inside and install them at the side with a cordless drill.
I need to make some for consignment at local store who sells several every year. I also need to take some to the place I get my gravel as they do a lot of plant and outdoor sales.
We started one today, it sounds high class but sorting the wood coming out of the kiln, I think there is enough "planter grade" walnut to make a couple, and walnut is rot resistant. My wife got one of those "Don't order from that catalog", catalogs the other day. Planters started at a SGU.
I threw a couple together Saturday afternoon. I'll probably add a brace/support under the boards between the legs. We should have planted vegetables two weeks ago. These are to replace the one I built for my mother two years ago.
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I glued the legs up yesterday and then jointed and planed them to 3 1/2". 2 out of 5 table top boards were flat and 3 were not. I used one of the flat ones as a sled to flatten the others in the planer. I got them glued up and tomorrow I will pretty much have the table built. Then a few days to get it finished. I think it's gonna be a really nice table. It's the first one I've made that's counter height. Gotta figure out a stain that's gonna be as dark as the customer wants.
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I have used a stain called ebony and it is nearly black. of course you can add more layers to make it darker.
MinWax makes a Special Walnut that is plenty dark. And gets darker with more applications.
One of the furniture shops I worked at bought it by the tanker. The driver fell asleep one day while filling our tanks and my truck ended up somewhat special walnut :D. Dark walnut is their next shade darker IIRC.
We finished up the first planter today, I think there is enough to do a 6', this is a 4' and then recycle through and there probably enough for a couple of 2x2's. As close as we could get to a late winter glamour shot for the ad :D
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Ah spring is truly in the air when the planter photos start showing up! 8)
I made one last year from leftovers and put it on the lawn for sale. No bites, still have it. But the saw horses I put out sold in an hour.
So I am thinking about planting somethin in it this year. Can I ask the assembled brain trust, does these things help discourage small critters from nibbling on the pants. It's my majot problem here. Anything that I manage to get through the bug, too much/too little rain, hail storms, pestilence, or what ever until it gets mature packable veggies gets stolen or ruined by critters. Wondering if the elevation helps at all? I really need a small mesh fence dug 6-8" into the ground to keep them out, but I have limited garden time available.
Whadoikno, The design committee here said if I cut off the legs and knock the bottom out I can give her one :D
OK, I'm lost. What? :D
I think the benefits of a raised bed garden box for me is as follows. you do not have to bend over or get on your knees. the soil can be amended with water reserving stuff, organic material, fertilizer and water in a container. Mine do not have bottoms, so very sturdy and too much water/rain drains easy. I can mow and weed eat along the edges, and they look nicer in my yard. They are cute and look organized, and all the "rage". It made it easier to attach a trellis for my tomatoes. no decrease in bugs, and my German shepherd developed a liking to green tomatoes and could get her front half into the vines, after some shaking of the tomato forest, out came her front half with a look like a kid with a hand in the cookie jar, and a tomato in her in her mouth. they can have clear plastic stapled to the top and germinate and kill weed seeds. I worry with the ones with legs, when filled with wet soil, that a bonk from a riding mower might wrack them to the side. Not sure what the min. depth of soil required for different plants is. I think squirrels and birds can have at it, but the wood beds are more easily adapted to netting of fence.
I would develop a general design and place them at locations, then take orders to fill to spec, with maybe some standard sizes for the folks that have to have one on the spot. In town I would not try to sell to the farm stores, as they have cheap ones out. The local true vale and ace stores are more like a mom and pop store here in town. also we have a renues-it store and they have high end clients buying old looking or rustic stuff. We also have a Smith's market and they sell old style food and games. worn hardwood floors. they sell lots of squirrel corn on the cob ect. Places were folks shop looking for charm, not the cheapest deal in town.
I would use a glue and screw method with Titebond 3 or construction adhesive. these can be as simple as a 2 foot square open bottom box, made with slab wood with bark on to set on the ground and fill with amended soil.
I love the idea of planters for the sole reason of not having to bend over. My buddy bought a whole bunch of cinder blocks and made a several raised beds, that are probably 3' high and it appears to make it very easy to grow and pick your produce. We're not quite there yet but I imagine we will be, but we'll have to fight off the deer.
Previously, in other houses, squirrels were an issue. My stepmom suggested I drape dog hair over all the plants and it did a beautiful job of keeping the critters at bay.
Meanwhile back at Skylab.... :D The walnut veneers are being set. It is more difficult that it looks to maintain straight lines to a needle point. ;D
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Rob your holding that like you have been in a old rock band 😂
I built the table today. That went without a hitch. I put some General Finishes Java color gel stain on a piece of ash and sent her a picture. Its the darkest that GF makes. I told her I could try mixing some black into it and see if I can make it darker. If she wants it darker than this, it might as well be painted brown. I will try putting a couple coats on it.
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Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 28, 2023, 07:40:49 PM
Rob your holding that like you have been in a old rock band 😂
Funny! I was mincing about the shop today with this piece today like a guitar with a few thousand watts barking out of the speakers. Just a sad old guy who never made it to be a spider from Mars. LOL
I'm making a reproduction Shaker candle stand, which is basically just a small round side table. The feet for the table are dovetailed into the upright support column. Lots of ways to do it, just some methods take real work. Off in the corner of my shop is a Bridgeport milling machine....should be perfect. Put on the dividing head and turn on the digital readout accurate to .0001 and good to go.
I wanted a 14 degree dovetail but put in something else, maybe 7 degrees. Don't tell anybody, I think it will still work.
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I've never studied the tail of a dove that closely... but that is a sweet way of being able to machine that!
Dividing heads are tricky. How many holes in the plate, how many turns plus how many holes per index and all that can gum things up in one's head. Plus you are working off center, plus you are angling in both directions, What could go wrong? :D Sorry, certainly not laughing at you laughing with you.
Besides, you wound up with 7° on each side and that adds up to a 14° included angle, so there you go! I always liked the way those delicate tables look. Just too delicate for my home. My Sister has at least one.
Nice work.
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on February 28, 2023, 08:03:19 PM
Its the darkest that GF makes. I told her I could try mixing some black into it and see if I can make it darker. If she wants it darker than this, it might as well be painted brown.
Maybe get some dye to try? Might be able to do a base coat of black or brown dye with a top coat of stain and get it where you want it?
If you have a Sherwin Williams close by they can custom mix their BAC wiping stain any color you want, should be able to get it dark enough that way also.
You could also use a toner coat (mix stain/dye in with your first top coat). Especially with ash it will help even it out.
I'll give sherwin williams a call. The trouble with the dye is Id have to drive at least an hour to get ahold of any transtint dye.
This picture is java gel stain mixed with some black minwax finish. One end is one coat wiped off. The other end is a second coat wiped off. The middle is the stain brushed on and left on. I think this is what she wants it to look like. I think I will only get that by letting this dry on there, which it will do and then I will finish with poly. I think I would get the same results with milk paint. I think she doesnt want the wood to look like wood. I hate it, but want to give her what she wants.
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I don't like it, but she loved it, so I'm off to ruin some pretty ash wood.
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That's what I was thinking about all the nice work you did with the natural beauty. I guess if she is happy that's good
I think it would look pretty sharp with the legs that dark stain and the top left natural or really light stain - but I get what you are dealing with. I make small furniture as a hobby and when I make something for others (which is most of the time now) I have to keep telling myself I'm not making it to my taste, but theirs...
I don't love it, but its starting to grow on me. Once I get several coats of poly on it and I forget what the wood used to look like I'll be happy with the results and it will be a handsome piece. At least the wood still has the grain texture showing. Unfortunately this stuff is gonna have to dry for several days first.
Meanwhile back on the farm the basic laymen are making rough wood boxes. ::)
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I needed to clean out a bay in my shed and needed a box to store some short walnut pieces I trimmed for woodworkers making cutting boards and chess boards and such. I had an 8" trim cut about 3/4" thick so I took a 1X6 and cut them into 3' lengths and took the leftover 1X6 and cut for the ends then just screwed it all together.
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All walnut.. All air dried several years. I stopped at 3' long as it is still pretty heavy.
My wife wants me to paint all our oak raised panel doors and cabinets in the kitchen gloss white. Oh and how hard is it to make the panels flat without all the decoration? :snowball: :snowball: :snowball: :)
I would tell her I will miss her when she finds her own place. I bet you get enough sterile hospital white at work.
Quote from: doc henderson on March 01, 2023, 06:19:55 PM........Oh and how hard is it to make the panels flat without all the decoration? ..... :)
Doc, as much as I like your wife, I would just say "Gee I dunno, but you can tell me when you get it done." That's what I told mine when I got a similar question about the kitchen cabinets. Unfortunately I found out the answer. It's 4 weeks of off and on work. (And No I don't like it, but I live with it, because well...)
Started working on a saddle locker for the family today, nothing fancy but I think It looks pretty good. Pine and spruce mixed 1xs I milled up. The wife seems pretty happy with it so far so....
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/2DAEC3FB-EE18-43E6-92F9-3ABB72286572.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677731335)<Just a bit of a disaster in here... how I like it 😬
Nice! I see the calendars keep you motivated 😂
Quote from: Walnut Beast on March 02, 2023, 03:46:09 AM
Nice! I see the calendars keep you motivated 😂
They do, and if i ever need to know the date from 06 or 96 I have quick access 🤣
My bother had an enclosed work trailer with life size cardboard cutouts of young ladies. He and my then 5 year old son referred to them as Hotties.
I aspire to that level of disaster :).
This is the raised bed planter style we made yesterday. The angle was from old bed frames, but around $15 of bolts!
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Don, what did you use to punch the holes in the bed angle iron? I've found that stuff to be really, really hard and wears out drill bits quick. Did you burn them with an O/A drill?
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A cherry end table and a sparked(spalted) maple bowl I recently made
Very nice, but I don't see any sparks.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 02, 2023, 05:00:23 PM
Don, what did you use to punch the holes in the bed angle iron?
Not Don but an old machinist. I've used the bed angles for projects and find a slower RPM and a steady feed works ok, much easier with a drill press than by using a hand drill, with hand drills most people tend to go too fast for tough steels. As soon as the drill starts to dull get off there as rubbing just work hardens it. Learning to hand sharpen drills on a bench grinder is a good skill to learn!
We did use a drill press and new bits, so another kaching. I'm almost good enough to sharpen for white pine. When there is steel to drill I've learned to buy bolts and 2 new bits... and yup, with old bedframes it seems like there is probably a fleck of battleship armor about where you want to cut or drill :D.
Finished it up, hauled into the local barn and filled. Pretty happy with the result.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/3537FE65-2AE0-40B7-B5CE-10690501C0E3.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677879240)
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Quote from: Don P on March 03, 2023, 01:39:09 PM
We did use a drill press and new bits, so another kaching. I'm almost good enough to sharpen for white pine. When there is steel to drill I've learned to buy bolts and 2 new bits... and yup, with old bedframes it seems like there is probably a fleck of battleship armor about where you want to cut or drill :D.
I did most of my machine shop career with the Army Research Lab so I've drilled a lot of armor plate and there is more than one type, slow and steady, and sometimes it takes some x-rated talking!
I have some bedframes I need to 'dispose' of. Y'all have presented some great opportunities for their use.
97redjeep,
That is a very nice looking tack closet, it looks stout! Will you put any finish on it?
That is really nice and really like the half logs. Thats a nice touch.
Thank ya, id planned on doing some sort of like light stain, but the wife likes how it looks, and it's inside, so natural I think it will be. The "firewood " turned out pretty darn nice. I had two guys last night, the first night it was there, say I should sell them, but I probably have 30+ hours into Logging, milling, drying, planning, etc. etc. etc., I don't know if I can build them other than for a hobby. What were the cash deal work out to be an hour?
the last one I did was with 2x8, it turned out pretty good, but a little more "standard" , so I wanted to change it up and make it a little more rustic. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/4E1B4651-701F-441A-A134-8489B4EEA993.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677983272)
My son and DIL bought a house a couple years ago.It wasn't a new house but about 15 years old and was built in a factory and set on foundation with a crane.I guess would be called a modular home.Where house was fastened together in living room sheet rock is cracked and ceiling slightly unlevel.DIL wanting fake beam to cover crack and make splice less noticeable. I'm building one out of poplar.No planer or jointer so required a lot of hand planing and sanding.She found a board in my collection with a knot hole and wanted to use it.Filled it with epoxy.So far so good.More sanding and need to plug screw holes.Hope it fits :laugh:
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Why is it all that money I was saving by having a sawmill is now used to buy epoxy to fill the wood they want to see? :D
Glad that was the only poplar board I had with a knot hole.Looked like a defect to me.Glad it's not holding anything up :laugh:
I did something very similar to that in my last house. The only difference is I left it hang from the ceiling and put led tubes in it for light. I also ran all my audio and video cables through it for my ceiling mounted projector. that room turned into a pretty sweet theater.
Oh and I actually ran some LED Christmas lights in it for ambient lighting while watching a movie. worked out great.
Got all of the veneers on and ready to start the bottom tomorrow.
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With Rob standing in as Vanna :D
How many pieces did you bring to a point?
Rob! You are the man!!!! 💪
Holy cow Rob! I gotta ask you: What are the chances the client has any idea what was involved in making this thing? Can't wait to see the bottom. :D
Hail, the WOC! 8) 8)
That's cool Rob. Did you make the pie pieces with a tapering jig?
There are 27 pieces cut from a half dozen big claro walnut slabs, with about 70% waste. I start by calculating the circumference and dividing by a reasonably close number with the final pie piece being a "fatty". After a lot of resawing piles of vertical grain blanks, I use a template to rough out the grain I need. With a very tight fence and a freshly sharpened fine tooth blade the roughed out pieces are "shaved " straight to a point then arranged for pattern on the torsion box top. This is done free hand with a sharp eye. Pretty time consuming. Vanna is better looking !
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/saw.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678202187)
As always, thanks for sharing secrets. how thick are the slices and what do you use for adhesive? if you do not mind sharing. looks grand! cannot wait to see what the finish does to highlight the grain.
The veneers are a tick over 1/2 inch and will sand down to a tick under half inch. Only epoxy to avoid any swelling and or movement. A pic of one I did a couple of years ago with English Walnut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/round_walnut_table_3__10_16__2019~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678208186)
Thanks for keeping the bar set high enough, that we will not reach it in our lifetimes. :) keeps us humble and reaching for the stars.
Absolutely beautiful!
all i can saw is WOW
Beveling the bottom today for a flying saucer look.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/table_bottom.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678230972)
That's a pretty serious cutter for that router!
I can only hope to be half that good. Very nice
Quote from: JRWoodchuck on March 08, 2023, 01:00:49 AM
That's a pretty serious cutter for that router!
It is funny you mention that. A couple of years ago, I bought the biggest Festool router to swing a large cutter head, just for this job. While waiting for it to be delivered, I picked up a $99 Rigid at the big box store, so I could just keep going. The Rigid swings the big head just fine and does a lot of other jobs equally well! The secret to spinning and cutting a large bevel like this is that it is actually dozens of smaller bevels, blended together to look like one big 45 degree cut. Pretty easy to do by just changing the angle of the router box at the end of the trammel arm. A touch up with an orbital sander and all of these little micro bevels look like one!
Back to the giant expensive Festool router that I never ever used. I sold it this morning for what I paid for it, fresh in its systainer. A Dios to a tool that I never used.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/cutter.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678303958)
Will the edge remain as plywood or will you layer on some more walnut?
are you able to provide more details and or pics of the router box, of which you speak? How do you get any work done with us kids asking so many questions? sorry another question! :)
So, the edge will remain plywood, but grain filled and polished out to a dull, flat look. The bottom the same. The choices for grain fill I don't like because they contain silica and I do a lot of sanding, not good for the lungs. My go to, as always, will be walnut wood flour and epoxy; much harder to sand, takes a lot longer, due to the set time, temperature, but when you're done, with a clear coat of epoxy and some scotchbrite and oil, the finish is really, really nice. Oh, and hard. The bottom at this point has been dyed dark brown, so as I am sanding and cleaning up, I am always hitting dark material. This bottom clean up will take probably more than a week.
The router box is just that; it is a box that I can put side wheels on and run on angle iron track for surfacing big slabs. But I find a big power hand planer is faster, so I don't use it in that application much. The box without the wheels mounts into the trammel arm with cheeks and I just choose an angle I want and zap a couple dry wall screws through the cheeks to temporarily seize. I change the angle a lot so there is no point in trying to have reference pins or adjustments. Note the pencil reference lines on the cheek inside. I just tap the box around, site the cutter head and go for it. The motto I follow here,,,,Keep it simple, stupid, KISS :D
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I saw a picture of a Shaker candle stand from 1830 and thought it would be an interesting and quick piece to make. Did a little research and found dimensions in a Thomas Moser publication. Been working on it in spare moments and just now finished it up.
Its pretty true to the original except I machined a brass spider that fits on the bottom of the column and extends out into the legs for a couple of inches to add strength.
As I was working on the piece I researched the Shakers. Interesting group, their religion died out but their furniture has a strong following by some folks. The legs are attached with French dovetails, and it has a few subtle details that attract the eye and add interest. I didn't think I would like it when I started but its growing on me.
The wood is black cherry with a little history. The tree came down during a tornado on a PGA golf course. I processed it along with many other trees that came down on the course. I think that ought to add a few $$$$$'s to the price.......
That is one of my favorite table designs.
That style table has been on my "to do" list for years.
Nice execution of a classic shaker design.
Well, the last coat of finish I put on the table top was supposed to be the last. It was a fail. That day had become cold and rainy. The coat of finish dried very cloudy, so this morning I sanded most of it off and reapplied gel stain, because I sanded thru a lot of that. Still cool and rainy and I'm afraid the stain is gonna dry cloudy as well. I can't win. Was supposed to deliver the table today or tomorrow. Didn't help I had a stomach bug for two days and got nothing done.
I think the stain will be ok. can you finish in your kiln room.. warm and dry? when do you expect your L53?
The only reason I'm worried about the stain is that its gel stain and I had to paint it on and not wipe back which creates a glaze. It has to dry for several days before I can coat with poly. I have the shop upto 70 degrees or better, so that should have the RH way down from what it was. I have considered doing finishing in the kiln shed before. Right now theres too much stuff in there to do it. I have not ordered the L53 yet. I want to at least get some of the work going on the chamber before I order, plus I have been spending more money than I'm making in the last several months. Tha'ts ok, but I will get a few jobs done and then spend the money I made. Lol.
I still wipe gel stain off, it is just thicker and does not run on a vertical surface as much. It should be what soaks in that is left. I worry more about the clear finish.
I would prefer to wipe it off, but that did not leave the dark color that the customer wanted. Before I try to make somehting this dark again, I am going to learn more about dyes. Clearly I need to learn from Rob how he dyed the bottom of that table so dark. Rob, how did you do that? I just came in from moving the little DH into the shop that i bought last week for the kiln. I'm going to make it very warm and dry in there and see if I can speed things up and prevent the foggy finish.
I use water based General Finishes dye stains. They're not really a stain, because they are translucent, meaning that they are a dye. It's really hard to find translucent solvent based dyes, except for asphaltum, which I use a lot. So, if you want a deep, penetrating colour that will go in quite a ways, just paint on the GF dye stain and don't wipe it away. Another trick I use with this stuff, is I always add 15% fixer, that is Endurovar polyurethane and it prevents subsequent layering from moving the stain about; a trick I had to learn the hard way. Normally when I use dye stains, always with a fixer, I will lay down a base coat of clear sealer on rough wood to bounce the dye coating off of for an aged look. But in the case of this bottom I am looking for mostly solid colour. Another trick I used today was dried pigment in a coating and this is basically a paint at this point, not very thick, but on top of all the other translucent epoxy coatings, on top of the GF dye coating, I will have a nice looking finish after sanding and top coating. Finishing is an art that you learn through a GREAT many mistakes along the way! I'll run some pics of the bottom as I work up the final top coat, which will be rubbed to a 30% sheen. I'm trying to get the thing to look like a homogeneous coating with a little variation here and there that matches the colouration of the walnut rolling over the edge. Basically put, trying to trick the eye.
I had ordered some GF dark brown dye stain to use and then cancelled the order when I decided that the GF java gel stain I had would work. Should have kept the order coming. It's interesting that the oil based stains are given names like "java" and the water based dye stains are given names like "brown".
The Java is water based and an off brown at least the Javas I have. It is just a little thicker and more of a stain than a dye. The Java is also a little thinner than the glazing colours, but can be used just as well as a glaze when building up a finish. I wasn't aware that GF had a solvent based Java, but I may be out of touch.
Here is the product I am using.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-JH-Base-Stain/dp/B001DT1IZS/ref=asc_df_B001DT1IZS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071503086&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5471043537733709824&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-511352535992&psc=1
That oil based line is new to me and I've not tried it. Most of my paint locker has older GF finishes !
I just put what I hope is the last coat of poly on the table and I can deliver it tomorrow.
If there are no pics, it did not happen. 8) :snowball: :)
FF - I do encourage you to try some different types of stains & dyes. They all have somewhat different properties and act different in certain applications. I have leaned toward solvent based stains (not oil based) in the past due to quick coat times and ease of application, especially on kitchens or large project. I could spray the stain on & wipe down, and then switch guns & come back a couple hours later and top coat if I wanted.
Mr. Tule's comment " Another trick I used today was dried pigment in a coating and this is basically a paint at this point" is what I mentioned the other day as a toner coat. As long as your finishes are compatible, adding a little stain/dye to your first top coat can let you shade and adjust your color as desired. I'd be willing to bet the factory color you were trying to match with your table had a toner, or full tinted top coat. Obviously this method works best with sprayed top coats, but with the right products you may be able to us it with brushed finishes as well. You will usually want to use a clear top coat over the toner coat to seal in the color.
This table is becoming my nemesis. It dried cloudy again. It was not the moisture or too cold in the shop. It was warm and dry in there. Its got to be the finish. What I'm reading is that oil based poly getting a cloudy appearance is caused by the zinc thats in there to create the satin finish. I'm going to have to remove the whole finish right down to the bare wood and start over. I'm going to buy a new can of gloss and put the first coats on with that and then the last coat with a satin to get the sheen I want.
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ALWAYS use gloss with the last coat or two with the desired finish. Otherwise I get a too foggy finish.
Layering " R-US " ;D
I was having all kinds of similar issues last year and Rob once again provided the magic bullet that saved the day. His secret that worked (and still works) wonders for me is to cut the finish with mineral spirits and put on fast thin layers. It came up like glass after I had re-sanded and started over 3 times. Rob is my hero and if his fan club sold autographed pictures I would have one hanging in my shop. :D :) ;D
The thing is that I've built many tables and finished them with numerous coats of satin poly and only had trouble one other time. I sanded that coat off of my own table and bought a new can of finish and put it on and no trouble after that. This can that I've been working with is new and has been inside my heated shop since I got it. Perhaps it was messed up prior to me getting it. Either way, I will start using gloss for early coats and switch to satin later.
gloss used to be cheaper, but not anymore where i get it. the satin has stuff added to dull the sheen. The thicker gel may need longer to fully cure and off gas whatever, and not react. it was a strange pattern. may be the wood, looked like you may have used a roller. I had this recently with my cedar table. sand smooth, but as I sprayed it looked like dust nibs. I could use the same can to do other stuff and it was fine. I went and bought a new can and it did not help. very frustrating and educational. mine was going over epoxy.
well, finish is scraped off and sanded back. reapplied stain. here comes round 2.5. bought new finish. sorry, no caps because im icing my elbow.
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Man, pulling that scraper musta hurt! Just pulling a razor knife cutting sheetrock killed me.
it did, but it needed done. im icing now.
Doodled a few designs for lamps a couple of months ago and made a start on one today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_1844.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678759936)
The globe is a Home Depot special. Happy with the walnut top but not sure about the hangar. Cut a prototype out of plywood to see if I like the proportions and curve. If I decide its a go I'll build a bending jig and steam bend walnut for the arm. Negative and positive comments on the shape are welcome.
Finding electrical components at a reasonable cost has been a chore. Got parts coming later this week....hope I can make them work.
It seems today's trend is simple and clean living spaces. I'm hoping the lamp will be a fit.
Larry
Like the design and the proportions look great.
Now, for some reason I visualize this light hanging above the yard path lighting the way to the old outhouse. Maybe it reminds me of the moon. 8)
That's lovely Larry! I can't quite tell how it's hanging but it looks like it's just by twine. If the twine could be wrapped around the wiring so you can't tell wiring is even there that's a real neat look.
I wonder what it would look like if you fattened up the lower portion a little to have more of a taper as the arc goes to the top?
Also wondering what you will use for a base, or will it hang from the top?
I'm always interested to see your posts as you do some amazing work. I've had a hobby woodshop for years and I've made a bunch of projects and small furniture, but nothing that is anywhere near your level of work.
Quote from: beenthere on March 13, 2023, 11:05:54 PM
Maybe it reminds me of the moon. 8)
Think I'll call it the "Moon Light", in your honor of course! ;D
aig, I have some cloth covered wire coming, but I also found some wire that looks like a rope. That might be pretty cool.
NE W, I was thinking about more taper. I've never steam bent anything with a taper so that may be a problem.
Bent laminations seem more appropriate for that form. Just my opinion, but that's a tight radius.
How would one glue bent laminations into a shape like that? Carefully crafted caul? Lots of clamps? Both?
Exactly. Cauls (forms) and clamps clamps are the main ingredients for bent lams. Wedges can be used strategically to cut down on the number of clamps. I would probably stay with 1/8" lams for something like this. After it's dry it can be worked into final form on the bandsaw.
Add:
Could also work with glued up segments and the bandsawed to shape.
Wild thought - cut out of a cookie of the same diameter. That would be using natures laminations. Problem is the short grain across the width would be very weak.
could also design a void if it is desirable to run the cord up through the form. you could also just cut the form like out of plywood, but in solid wood and glue up 2 thicknesses thick and stagger the butt joints. could be like a "mid century modern" form. @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190)
All sorts of variations on that design idea, but a hidden cord up the center for sure! The globe is cool but how about a razor thin veneer flower blossom instead. Light will penetrate thin "white " wood veneers.
This little gizmo presses curves, circles and arches from solid wood in a matter of seconds. It works in conjunction with a deep finger joint shaper head.It is very good if you do not want to look at laminations.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/gartop.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678819894)
Tule, does the wood have to be steamy to use that?
You guys are fascinating!
Bent lamination would work for sure, but I use plastic resin glue when doing lamination's. In my case, where I want a taper, the glue will leave a line that won't finish the same as the wood.
My plan is to steam bend it than rip it into on the tablesaw. Next step will be to cut a groove for the cord than glue the two halves back together.
Rob I don't need help spending money ::) .....now you have me looking and thinking. :D :D :D
Quote from: aigheadish on March 14, 2023, 03:02:12 PM
Tule, does the wood have to be steamy to use that?
You guys are fascinating!
No the press works with wood up to 3 inches thick, dry and cut at angles. It makes wicked 3D furniture legs, window tops, and door arches. I also used it when defect cutting wood stave benches at Frontierland in Disneyland. It presses and pinches odd angles/shapes all at once. Good for scrap recovery into BB tops that make big$'s. Unlike laminations, edge routing is possible and attractive. Runs on compressed air.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/gartop_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1678822648)
Assembly day today
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I was at a loss.....it all makes sense now.
ARCHPRESS by Garpro -the ultimate way to joint arched windows - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar7O33ZZ7GY)
Thanks Hilltop! It does make sense now, it's not a solid piece of wood.
Tule! Big ups on the Disneyland gig, that's pretty cool! I'd love to see a picture of them at the park.
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is this it?
No Doc.
We took in the Redwood trees from Frontierland that were planted in the 1960's milled them, and produced Kd clear 2X staves used in a modern looking curved bench design. I'll need to search for pics?? These are at Anaheim, CA.
Fire pit chairs headed for Wisconsin.
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We'll gladly accept them.. thanks a bunch. ;D
Another picnic table, getting pretty efficient at these, might have to start selling them rather than giving them away lol(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/9582939F-7ECD-427F-8619-5CA2AF853AE3.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1679244832)
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I don't like it a lot, but I finally got a decent finish on the this table top. There's a couple dust nibs that I need to take care of and buff it. I am going to deliver this thing tomorrow night.
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8) 8) 8) 8) THAT was a long time and a lot of labor in coming out! Good on ya man! I go through this a lot more often than you do (like almost every job) and am dealing with it now on the bar, but I am glad you got it out and it looks great!
classy!
Steam bent walnut for my Moon Lamp today. I'm not experienced with the art which seems partly witchcraft with a little science. Had compression wood failures on the inside of my part the first time. The pressures made with a back bending strap are extreme.
This is my cobbled up steam box. A Wagner wall paper steamer provides steam. I replaced the OEM hose with a short length of radiator hose which delivers lots more hot steam.
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This was the first good bend which is now drying. Some may recognize my bending strap. :D
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I don't know a lot about steam bending but that looks like quite the tight curve for your first go, Larry! Well done!
Nice use of an old bandsaw blade!
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While my mom was visiting I decided I'd go ahead and show her a couple of items I routinely make. I first made a raised planter. It is 4' long, 2' wide, 1' deep and on 3' legs. I sell a few at a local bait shop who sells plants and need to take one to a bigger shop up the road to see if they want some.
Next I made a bench "kit". I took an old white oak 8/4 LE slab and trimmed it a little and cut to about 3' long on the RAS. Next I took a wire brush to the soft punky sapwood on one side. (I don't know why it was only soft on one side.) and knocked it off. Next I bored 1.5" mortises in the corners using my auger bit. I planed the top smooth then cut 4 legs about 22" long and planed them smooth, ran them through the planer to smooth and finish them to the same size. Then I clamped each leg in the vise and cut the 1.5" X 3" long tenon on each leg. They are now ready for installation and cut them to length. I'll take them with me to an upcoming workshop to do that. ;)
How will you ever trim those legs? :)
Doc, did you really have to ask?
I assume he will take the mill!? :) :) :)
I'm a bit surprised that you don't find pieces of the bench in the neighbors yard when you trim the legs like that!
My concern has always been the whole bench will be lodged up in a tree somewhere and interfear with squirrel reproduction
Oh ye of little faith! :( :( :(
Quote from: doc henderson on March 25, 2023, 02:44:49 PM
I assume he will take the mill!? :) :) :)
I may be wrong but I was assuming there would be one in the vicinity we could use. Maybe we can find a trained operator to run it for us. :D :D :D
Maybe you can make a box that you can set the bench upside down in and cut the legs off with a handsaw...
I bought a set of rail and stile bits to make interior or exterior doors several years ago. Haven't made any doors yet, but I put some elm boards in the shop months ago that would be for a door. Well, I decided tomorrow is the day to start working on that. I will probably just make it 4 panel door with elm rail and stiles and some poplar panels. I have some neat looking poplar 4/4 with lots of knots and eyes that will make for an interesting door.
A trick I used on doors was to make them over sized and trim to final fit. Took a whole lot of sweat out of the picture.
FFOTS,
I bet I can find a faster and easier way. :D :D
Good point TR. I will make it just a little too big and then either trim down with circular saw or power hand planer. With the planer I can add a little bevel to the latch side. The door it is going to replace is a cheap luaun door that only measures about 1 1/4". I am going to make mine 1 3/8". It would be neat to have it thicker, but I think a pain to open and close all the time. My bedroom door is 1 3/4" but we rarely close it.
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Well I am calling it done. All 1' hard maple but the shelve is soft/spalted soft maple. Not the best finish job, should have had wife do it. Old varnish so time will tell.
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 25, 2023, 09:08:24 PM
Quote from: doc henderson on March 25, 2023, 02:44:49 PM
I assume he will take the mill!? :) :) :)
I may be wrong but I was assuming there would be one in the vicinity we could use. Maybe we can find a trained operator to run it for us. :D :D :D
I don't know about a trained operator, however there is supposed to be one attendent that has a BACKWOODS degree. Maybe he can accomplish the task.
GAB
Finish still looks wet. Will probably look better when dry.
I got all the rails and stile material planed and dimensioned, but not to length. I'm suppposed to make exended tenons on the rails and then mortises in the stiles. I'm not sure my mortiser will allow that tall of material to stand up under it. Are the extended tenons needed or will it stay together without? I've never made a rail and stile door this heavy. The elm is going to be pretty.
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It would be better to have a tenon if you can. A spiral bit in a router is also a slick way to cut a mortise.
I haven't made any passage doors in probably 20 years. That was back before I had a shaper and was too young and dumb to know any better, yellow pine with 1/2" plywood panels. Cut the stile & rails on a router table, slapped them together with some Tite Bond and sent them down the road, no tenon. Those were a 7'-6"? high set of double doors for a local century home, still looked good in the pictures when it sold last year. My point being they will probably hold up fine if you don't have tenon's as well. There are a whole lot of commercial wood doors out there without mortise & tenons.
Dowels is pretty common too.
I used extended tenons, took a little longer but I liked the additional stability. As far as I know none have failed.
I make such long tenons on a Radial Arm Saw with a dado stack, after cutting the shoulders with a good blade. There's always a little hand work to do to clean things up.
If you have a plunge router, wouldn't take much time to make a jig to cut the mortises.
Might be an excuse to buy a new toy! :)
I will be building the doors with a Freud rail and stile set which will of course have the cope which will make for a lot of glue surface. For the rail ends, you take the top part of the cutter off and then it will cut extended tenons by routing and then flipping over. On the way to work I was thinking that if I do it, I will use a plunge bit in the router to make the mortise instead of trying to use the mortiser. Might have to order a long 3/8 up spiral bit as I think my long ones are all 1/2". Also thinking that instead of multiple passes with the router I might just set up my tenoning jig and a dado blade to do the tenons. Then use the router for one pass to get the cope profile.
I have several Larry and may go that route. I was thinking of dropping the stile down onto the router table, but that may be tricky especially with the long stile.
I think I made some noise about it previously but I'm making a putter. This was my first go at an epoxy pour and this picture makes it look way nicer than it really looks. I expect to sand most of this epoxy off to have a thin layer that I'll build just a tiny bit up on. I messed up and forgot to tape off any parts, then I also used a ton of epoxy. Oh and it's real old and hasn't been kept in a temperate place, so it's probably seen some freezes. All in all it worked pretty well and I didn't know that so little went so long.
The other post is here (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=99842.msg1880191#msg1880191).
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That's a fun project. I'm interested to see how it works for you.
My next door neighbor's gate was in a mess so a friend and I installed a new one for her. We used treated wood so no sawmilling was involved except for beveled shims to correct for leaning posts. See before and after.
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I like that latch!
cool gate, the old one has the cross bars wrong.
Nice gate and it looks like a beautiful property!
Hey, Texas Ranger, I've seen a couple people, in various contexts mention the cross bars on doors or gates that way. Is the idea that the cross bar should be pushing against the bottom of the post or door jam, instead of pulling the top of the post or door jam? My shop doors are the same angle and while I plan to rebuild them eventually I don't know how big a deal it is if it's wrong.
tension vs compression.
In general I think compression is better.
Ok, hold on guys. You're starting to sound like my 'neighbors' on Nextdoor!
If I zoom in, it looks like the X overlaps, or at the very least, half-laps in the middle. So, both are using compression forces to keep the gate from sagging. I think.
Personally, I prefer a turnbuckle on the tension side for adjusting later.
the original one could be pulled apart over the years. the opposite way, the wood joints would get tighter (if it was reversed) on the old gate. I think! :) at least the brace is under forces to pull away on the old one. compress into the corner joints if reversed. more like a post and beam construction, ya gotta love triangles! :D :D. a corner post is braced at the top of a big corner post and butt into the next post at the bottom so the forces compress it all together. then the fasteners are just keeping things aligned.
You're right. The X is a lap joint. There is a tension wire and turnbuckle pulling parallel to the fence and attached to a steel stake 3.5' in the ground. That is not enough depth- I will soon add a 5+ footer. The ground is softer than I thought. Happy pounding to me. I wanted to add a rail like that shown but I would have had to remove the fence to pour concrete. Whole other level of effort.
I'm loving this door. The 3/8" bit I had only had a cutting lenght of 1 1/4", so guess how long my extended tenons are. I put them on every rail, so I think it will hold. I did not plan for the mullions to have extended tenons, but guess what I did when I routed them. Yep, I routed them with extended tenons. That made them all too short. Luckily I had one piece of 4" elm left over so I made a new mullion to replace the shortest one with one a few inches longer. No one will ever know. I'm going to glue it up tomorrow morning. I made a crude jig for my router. I just screwed some pieces of wood to either side of the base and clamped some 2x2 pieces to either side for stability while I routed the mortises. Worked great.
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Like those poplar panels. Can you keep the color when they are finished?
I'm going to try some spar varnish with UV protection to try and keep the green color.
Good looking door.
It looks like your quickly router jig worked well.
I started making the raised panels with a horizontal panel raising bit, but it was burning and not cutting well. I think I need to have that bit sharpened. Then I remembered that I bought a vertical bit. The drawback of that bit is that you have to stand the panel up against the fence while routing. It worked a lot better and made some nice panels.
On the old gate the cross bar pivots down, new gate should prevent that.
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on March 29, 2023, 09:53:31 PMI think I need to have that bit sharpened.
I touch up router bits with a diamond file, never tried a large bits but it should work.
It seems to make quite a difference, as soon as I see any signs of dull bit like easy burning or rough finish a quick touchup on the flat part of the carbide and were good again.
Door looks nice.
FFOTS, My new go to has been danish oil. I really like how it makes the character of the wood pop. You may want to try some of that if you have some.
I regularly use boiled linseed oil, which is whats in danish oil along with polyurethane. I like the oil, because it only adds amber color from the oil. Usually I only use it on walnut that doesn't need a film finish.
with an oil finish, you can often just reapply. if a film finish goes bad, you have to sand a bit. That is ok on some projects but not all.
Been wanting to build a raised bed planter like I've saw a lot of people on here have built.Built mine out of white oak .Not as easy as I thought it would be.Spent all day on it but it turned out pretty good.My little grandson loves strawberry's so I think I'll plant some everbearing strawberry plants in it so he can see where they come from besides the refrigerator :laugh:
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Looks good Bill, exactly like the last one I made, but nicer work. If you are doing strawberries in that, before you set it and fill it, you might want to make some upper frame work out of 1x2's or something to hold a net over it. The birds and other critters will eat those little things before your grandson ever sees them. Nets over strawberries are a prudent way to go.
Nice job, welcome to the club.
Bill,
I have changed my design slightly on my raised bed planters like the one I show in reply 909. Now I just make a simple box then add the legs.
I cut the sides out as 4' long and 1' tall. (I use 2-1X6s or a 1X4 and a 1X8 or a single 1X12 for the sides) I fasten them to 2X2 strips in the corners. Then I fasten (Nail or screw) a 1X1 sticker between the 2X2s at the bottom of the sides. Then I cut out the ends as 26" X 1' tall and fasten them to the 2X2 strips. Then I cut 2' long scrap boards and lay them on top of the 1X1 strips. I notch the end boards to fit around the 2X2 strips. Next I cut 2 more 1X1 strips and place them on top of the 2' wide bottom boards and fasten them to the sides. They keep the bottom boards from coming out. This makes the inside dimensions 24" X 48" X 10" and 3' tall.
Next I cut out 4- 1"X4" X 3' legs and 4- 1" X 3" X 3' legs and fasten together at 90 degree angles. One 3" & one 4" so they are 4" wide when connected then I fasten securely to the previously built box. One big advantage here is space savings. You can build several of the boxes then store the legs in them and assemble them on site so you can stack several of the 1'X4' boxes in a truck bed or trailer. I haven't tried it but you should be able to turn the first planter box upside down and nest several others on top for transport or storage (I just realized that won't work with the legs on.)
I used to use the same fasteners to hold the bed together with the legs without using the 2X2 strips. . Building the box separately adding the 2X2 strips make them much more secure. Cutting the 1' long 2X2 strips is simple by ripping a scrap 2X4 on a table saw.
Right now I am mostly using 6d (2") nails to fasten the box together then 2"- 3" screws to assemble the legs then 3"-4" screws to attach the legs to the box.
Tom,you're right about the critters. I'm going to rig up some kind of lid with chicken wire to keep the deer out for sure.When I was a kid is was a big deal just to see a deer track but now I've saw as many as 14 in my yard at one time.Howard, I basically built this one the way you describe. I built two 2'x4' boxes 6" tall and stacked them on top each other.The bottom one got a cleat to set floor boards on.Legs are just like yours.My problem is that it seems to take me so long to build something I'd be working for almost nothing if I sold it for a fair price so I tend to just keep it or maybe give away to family or friends.After I got it together I thought I would sand it a little to get rid of pencil marks and splinters and then I had a little wood preservative so I thought I might as well put some on it.Before I know it I spent all day on a $100 planter :laugh:
Bill,
I am selling mine for for about $55 each now although the retailer is selling them for $100-$110 I think. Of course I am not using white oak and do no finish work on them. I use whatever wood I have available, mostly poplar, which will certainly not last as long as your WO. Also it is a good use for cutoff boards and pieces for the short pieces like the ends, bottoms and 2X2s. I figure about $2/bf and can knock one out in an hour or so. I'm not going to get rich on them and don't push them too much. I need to take some to a big farm place near here and see if they are interested in them. I am also planning on taking some tomato stakes to them but need to finish salvaging a WO next door to make some more.
I grew up in Fla and I know the deer population there is much greater than when I was a kid and have heard that was true here too.
This is the second batch of log trucks and farm tractors I've made for an insurance agent who raffles them off. Drop a business card in the box - get a chance to win - and a source for clients. I'd seen the log trucks at a conference and put my name in the hat but never won one. Asked who made them and got a 'funny you should ask' reply. Turns out the owners uncle was retiring from making them and the owner was looking for a new source. I offered to give it a go and arranged to meet the uncle. I spent a great afternoon with 'Uncle Billy' getting measurements and looking at all the other stuff he had made. He was a long time truck driver and we found out we had a lot in common. Making the first batch I spent a lot of time making assembly and cutting jigs so all the parts would turn out the same. My truck and tractor are simpler than Uncle Billy's - I tried to distill the essence of the truck/ tractor to as few parts and cuts as possible so mine is different but is recognizable as descended from his. They are all from dimension softwood - air dried for awhile. I sand the sharp edges with 80 grit when mostly assembled but leave final finish and paint to the new owner. Sanding by far is the most time consuming chore. I buy the wheels (half the cost of the materials) and figure I've got $30 in materials in each truck. Using the parts I can make several variants to the truck but have not tried to market anything else. Its a great winter project but it takes up quite a bit of room in the shop so I'll be glad to roll them down the road.
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You making any self loaders? 😉
Those are nice.
Several years ago, my students built wooden cars and other toys for a neighborhood school's kindergarteners and first graders. They made hundreds of them. The wheels were expensive, but we purchased "seconds" from the company that supplied the wheels. Most were fine and the savings was significant.
The farm place liked the planter, bought it and ordered another. I built it less the legs after I got home. The lady seems really interested in the tomato stakes and maybe some benches and birdhouses and such. I offered a consignment deal but she prefers to buy outright. I like that better too. :D
I made a box to store maps,road atlas's and brochures in my camper.
It should also serve as a step for my dogs to jump in the bed, they haven't figured that out yet.
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Looks nice. To get my dogs to use a step next to the bed, I had to put carpet on it.
After spending $50 on soil mix for my planter (I know I should have just dug some off of the hillside) I started thinking what might keep wood from rotting for awhile.I had a partial roll of plastic roof underlayment and used a piece of it to line inside of planter. I think it might help.I left spaces between bottom boards and cut slits in underlayment at spaces.This stuff is pretty tough so might make a difference.I'll let you know in a few years if I'm still around ???
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Bill.
What is the small strip of wood on the outside midway on the planter for? Did the boards try to separate there or something?
Howard,just a little insurance in case they try to :laugh:
When I made mine I used landscaping fabric, it lets the water run through, but not the dirt. But I see your point, trying to keep the water off the wood. I guess time will tell for both of us. ;D :D
I meant to find a container and build the one we made around it as a drop in insert with some drain holes aligning with holes in the wood bottom. Didn't happen. Talking to Dad afterwards he did some for the old folks in the neighborhood, uhh, yeah :D. He got hold of some commercial roofing from a tear off job in town and said it was working. I look at any of these as a use for low grade durable species wood, its gonna die sooner than later, which is fine just know it going in. For whatever reason, dirt in a container doesn't work, it does need to be potting soil or at least a good bit of loosener in it.
Half dirt half compost will work. Depends on your dirt. Maybe a little sand, maybe some vermiculite. Buying that much potting soil gets pricey, but it is a quick way to the finish line.
Eggs are soooooo expensive and Easter is coming up. Had to make my own. These eggs don't require refrigeration, never spoil, and grow on trees. The egg market will never be the same when my eggs hit the store shelves. Eat your heart out @Southside (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=24297)
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Ha ha! Love it! Plenty of fiber from those too! What breed of hen did you pick those from?
Those are duck eggs - from a wood duck.
Only the finest laying stock, cherry and black gum.
" The egg market will never be the same when my eggs hit the store shelves."
Neither will breakfast! :D
the bird better hope they come out the right direction. :o :o :o splinterous rectumus! :snowball: smiley_turkey_dancing
Those eggs look good.
The bowl looks good.
The table looks good.
;D
I'm a little reluctant to post this hack-job stuff on a thread with so many high-quality works. Yesterday, other than unloading one trailer load of logs, I did not have much going on. My two older girls were over with their infant daughters. My grandson came out to the shop, where I was cobbling together blue bird boxes out of cypress slabs that I pulled out of the burn pile.
He wanted a blue bird house for his yard, so I got him to help me a bit. Tennyson was the triggerman. He also volunteered to clean my shop but he'd likely be in high school before he'd finish that task.
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I made several yesterday. Some of the slabs were thick enough to saw into short 1x6's or 8's on the tablesaw. At least one panel or the roof was installed with screws or a hinge for easy cleanout.
Bird House Dimensions Chart for Bird House Plans by Species (birdwatching-bliss.com) (https://www.birdwatching-bliss.com/bird-house-dimensions.html#:~:text=Bird%20House%20Dimensions%20Chart%20By%20Species%20%20,%20%20%20%2042%20more%20rows%20)
I was about to ask, but decided to search first.
nice work caveman, on the bird house and the grandson.
Cavey,
Great job with the grandson. Other than fishing with him it is hard to imagine time better spent.
Some birdhouses are for art, some are functional. I make functional ones. I even display the attached description/infogram when I advertise them at flea markets and such.
I make my birdhouses out of scrap 1X6's so the nest cavity is about 4" X 6". The sides are slanted from 12" to 10". The front is 10" with a 1.5" diameter hole about 3" below the top. The back is a 1X6 usually 16"+ long with two holes drilled under the birdhouse to nail/screw to a fence post or such. The top is usually a 12" X 12" X 1" board. I turn the birdhouse upside down then screw 4 - 1"X1" X4" cut off stickers tightly along the sides to make a cap that fits securely but slips on and off easily for cleaning.
They are a great use for leftover rough scrap lumber and the bluebirds love them and I love my bluebirds.
I am a little reluctant to post this here because I'd hate to embarrass anyone with mediocre woodworking skills but I guess it is appropriate to post projects for others to strive to to achieve. Be advised because of the high tech, sensitive nature of this craft I have a patent pending. Now I only need to paint it purple and come up with a fancy name for it before I present it to the Shark Tank investors.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3547.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1680989513)
I think I will call it a stake-inator.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3548.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1680989585)
It can be mounted to any wooden work bench, table or sawhorses using 2 - 2" screws (These will be provided in the kit to the buyer).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3549.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1680989727)
The purpose is to measure and hold securely one dozen 1" X 1" tomato stakes so you get an accurate count and can shrink wrap each end.
Its pretty low tech - just a piece of scrap 4/4 lumber from the burn pile measured and ripped on my table saw to hold 4 stakes side by side. I then cut a barky 1X4 into the same length and screwed a couple of wood screws into each side to form an open topped tray. 4 stakes wide, 3 stakes high, shrink wrap and repeat. Pretty slick huh. :D Laugh all you want - this simple jig works real well.
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I am sure it could be made fancier and include an automatic wrapping feature and cut off to the exact length and of course, purple paint before it hits the market but for a prototype I am pleased with it. ;)
very nice and simple!
Needs a live edge.... ;)
I was wondering how long it would take before the design committee got involved. :D ;)
I like simple!!!
Meanwhile here at the dust factory :D
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I made a few simple crates to take with me to the farm supply store tomorrow with some sample tomato stakes. The larger crate holds 12 quart fruit jars. The smaller one holds 12 pint fruit jars.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3552.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1681089243)
One handy feature is the smaller crate nests perfectly inside the larger one.
Ring shank nails or screws? You don't drill a couple finger holes in the end boards to make easy lifting?
Rob is still on the flying saucer and I am still clunking away on the bar. I did another pour late yesterday and finally got it all level with no high spots around the 'shoreline' on the pond. There were two spots that just seemed to keep sticking up a little bit. This photo was around 7pm last night. Hopefully it still looks like that this morning. ;D
Next I will adjust the level a little bit and work on the shot glass shelf. before flipping and doing the legs. I'll finish the top when the legs are done.
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John,
I use ring shank nails for better grip. I have started adding a touch of glue on the sides where they are nailed into the grain on the end of the 1X8 (Quart) or 1X6 (Pint) boards. I am not adding a finger slot because I lack training on my router ( ::)) to do that. Maybe I should play with that. It would definitely be a good feature. There is space to grab between the side boards.
If I ever start making enough to justify it I may buy a compressor or electric nail gun and use the glue coated staples.
You guys are doing great work! And your notes about maybe not posting because of the level of craftsmanship make me re-think posting here at all. My work is never up to par compared to you guys.
I had a few days off work and I did some sitting around the shop. After my epoxy cured on the putter I sanded it down a bit and painted a thin layer on, to find that it was too thick and lumpy and I didn't like it. So, I went and bought some card scrapers and used them for the first time scraping off all the epoxy and cleaning up some other parts along the way. Card scrapers are pretty fun to use but I spent hours getting into all the nooks and crannies. Once the epoxy had been removed I decided to try spray-on polyurethane and I like the results of that much more, though the putter will likely not be as tough. I've put several layers on now but I forgot to take any more pictures. I'll probably spray it down a few more times. I don't know if there is a too much?
I'm also makin' my motorcycle shiny! I spent a couple hours washing barn and garage dust off it, yesterday, in preparation to list for sale. It makes me a bit sad but I'm too much of a pansy to ride it much, since I don't trust other vehicles on the road.
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Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 09, 2023, 10:48:24 PM
Ring shank nails or screws? You don't drill a couple finger holes in the end boards to make easy lifting?
John,
I missed the part about finger holes because I was thinking about cutting a groove/slot parallel to the top for grips. Re-reading and thinking abut it that would be easy and handy to drill a couple of holes in each end. I'll try that on a couple. Do you have any pictures of some you've done that way? I could see where a couple of 3/4" holes a couple of inches apart and 2-3 inches from the top would work well to place your ring and index finger in for easier and more secure lifting. Is that what you are describing?
I have glued/screwed/nailed a short handle board on the end for handles which works good and cost nothing except the time, glue and fasteners as the wood comes from scrap pieces with no other real value. The reason I don't do that any more is of course the pint size crates would not nest in the quart sized crates but mostly because I sometimes have customers buy them to make shelves or such. They lay them on their side or stand them on end with the open end facing out and place boards across them for shelves. I have had people buy them and stand them on end for end tables.
As long as they buy them I don't care what they do with them afterwards. :D
Quote from: aigheadish on April 10, 2023, 10:51:16 AM
My work is never up to par compared to you guys.
I bet its on par or better than most of mine. :D :D
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 10, 2023, 12:48:55 PMIs that what you are describing?
Yes. Use a Forstner bit and you could go all the way through or just most of the way and not have break out issues. Or if you want to go all the way through, just stack a bunch of ends and go to town drilling. Then just a real light sanding on the edge to ease it for comfort. I have never made and crates but your posts about them makes me want to make some in the future.
The only Forstner bit I have is 1.5" so that is out. I can see just using a 3/4" auger bit with some scrap against the underside to prevent breakout for the ones already built. In the future I could do as you describe and just stack 4-6 ends up and drill straight through the whole stack or for more professional results put them on the drill press and do the same thing.
After a week of sanding, correcting, more sanding, having someone else look at it, correcting and more sanding, we did proof coat today! Things are looking pretty good. The joinery is right where I want it; invisible.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Miller_Round_Finish1_Apr1123.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681252532)
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@tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) - thank you for your regular posts. Your work is so interesting and the quality amazes me.
I've been doing woodworking as a hobby for many years and have a modest woodworking shop. I am proud of some of my work and since most people don't do any woodworking at all, most people who see my work think it is pretty good. My weakness is finishing and I know that is the most important part.
When I look at your work and some of the other masters on this site I am truly amazed at the quality and craftsmanship. Makes me want to try to do better...
Not my work, but a buddy of mine does such good work I feel it deserves a post. Attached are some pictures of a shaving horse he built, and then a stool seat and legs that he turned (stool isn't finished yet in the cat picture, legs are a bit long and will be trimmed some once it sits inside for a bit). He plans on making me a stool or two eventually, and I cant wait.
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I had some short scraps left after making a planter and raised bed out of some low grade walnut. There was enough for 3 trays, I got a couple coats on this and its ready for a buff and final shot or two. i really need to think of another easy small scrap use but hopefully these will go away quicker than the garden stuff, people must be afraid of putting highly valuable walnut in the garden :D.
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Cindy's friend's great dane passed away and she asked me to make an urn for a 110lb dog. Sean and I made this urn which is about 5" tall and 6"x6" inside. Should be plenty big. It has a red oak bottom, elm sides and a cypress top with some purple heart and red oak for the paw print. Finished with a coat of boiled linseed oil. Top is rabbeted around the edge to fit closely inside the box.
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while I know my work is rookie compared to majority of the work on here, I think these saddle stands turned out pretty good. Both for donations, one for a friend who had a stroke, and one for my kids high school rodeo. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/2393ED07-9756-43AD-B1D7-3F92AD9B6F9F.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1682048397)
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Beautiful job! Somebody is gonna get a lot of use out of those!
Presenting the Arkansas Moon Light.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_6370.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1682302937)
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I've been showing off this first one for about a month and have got excellent feedback so I plan on making a few more.
A fine looking lamp sir. I would be proud to say that I made it.
And now, how about revealing the secret to the electrical routing?
My guess is that it's bent laminations, and one of the middle layers is hollowed out with the wire laid in place, before the pieces are bent and glued up? That's how I'd attempt it anyway.
It's very nicely done. :)
I have some big woodworking projects I need to get going on, but I couldn't pass up this Dagger Legend 16 canoe hull for free. It was an ad for $30, but then she told me I could have it for free if I was going to fix it. I hope to go pick it up tomorrow. It needs everything...bow and stern decks, gunwales, seats and thwarts. Now I need to find some 16' long ash boards. I hope my regular guy has it. It has one cold crack at one end that is about 5" long that I will have to repair. This is an issue with royalex canoes with wood gunwales. The plastic layup shrinks much more than wood in cold weather and cracks happen at screw holes. When I rebuild it, I will make some slotted holes in the hull to allow for movement. Shocking that the manufacturer doesnt do that, as its a known problem. Dagger is out of business, but Mad River Canoe bought the form for this model and for a while also produced the Legend. The lady I'm getting it from said she only took it out 3 or 4 times, so the bottom should be pristine. I guess its been sitting under this deck for 20 years. I'm considering making the decks with phenolic resin sheet that I have.
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I have a Royalex canoe on order and I'm already planning to modify the stern area and gunwales. It will be interesting to see what you come up with.
I'm thinking about using some phenolic resin that I have to make the bow and stern decks instead of wood. I have it from 1/8" thick up to about 1/2" thick. I don't want to add too much weight, so maybe something 1/4" thick. What brand are you getting? Royalex itself is no longer made, but I think its Esquif that has what they call T formex that is basically the same as royalex. I believe Wenonah also uses it. I've seen some pics that folks on Mad River FB page where people have added all kinds of mods. I'm not looking to do too much drastic with it. I just want to make it into a good boat for floating my local river which is not whitewater at all. Just an Ozark type stream with smallmouth bass. I will pick it up tomorrow morning and be able to get a better look. The first thing I will do is clean it really good and see the condition of the outer vinyl layer.
I have an Esquif Rangeley 17 on order. I want to add ouriggers a stiffer transom and some other goodies.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/rangeley_17.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682371098)
Quote from: rusticretreater on April 23, 2023, 11:42:49 PMAnd now, how about revealing the secret to the electrical routing?
I steam bent two pieces one thick and one thin. In the thick one I routed a channel for the cord. Glued the two pieces together and pulled the cord through. The chamfer helps hide the glue line, actually the glue line is almost invisible. The down side is it took me a couple hours messing with just the arm. The price would be so high few would buy it.
Since that first one, I've succeeded in drilling the cord channel before I bent the arm.......takes a really long drill bit. :D
Larry will you ad some fill to the hole to support it as you bend it? may be hard to then pull out. cord?
Vinyl tubing shows promise. Still trying different things.
Built a new steam box yesterday. 1-1/2" foam board encloses a HVAC 6" galvanized pipe. First try tonight and I could keep the temperature right at a uniform 210 degrees which should help.
That's a neat little boat Rob.
On the lamp if the pre drilled piece does not work out I wonder what would happen if you split a piece and put the grove an even amount on both sides then bent them at the same time with a form that hold them together along their entire length. Thinking that they would come out pretty even for gluing.
After a coon got in my planter and dug holes in the dirt even though there was nothing planted in it yet I took Tom's advice and made a cover for it.
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Bill,
Now not only do you have a raised bed planter you have a back up for your small animal cages. ::) :D :D
I think I'm done. My golf league starts tomorrow night, so it'll get it's first real use then. So far, I've only barely hit a ball on my indoor/outdoor carpet a few feet. Feels good.
I bought some card scrapers (I love them!) and scraped off all the epoxy because it was too thick and I didn't like it. Replaced with probably 10+ layers of spray can polyurethane. I masked parts off but that didn't end up great either. I think the finish will flake off quickly.
Whole thing
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230426_163427.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682542050)
Ball snatcher
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230426_163443.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682542074)
Brass plate bottom, there's some weight inside too, not heavy enough.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230426_163457.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682542092)
Pov
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That looks purtyyy!
Nicely done. As far as epoxy projects go, you picked (maybe) the most difficult thing to start on. A bench or table would have been 20x easier, believe it or not. The urethane looks great. It might flake from impacts, but can be sanded and refinished in the off season in pretty quick order.
Tell you what though, if you make another and send it to me, I will epoxy it for you so we can all see if it works better or worse than the urethane. Just give me some time to do it, I figure it's probably 5 or more separate pours then sanding and shaping after a hard cure.
very sweet, many will be impressed.
Thanks guys!
OGH, that's a deal! I'm already thinking of ways to improve it and a few rounds should tell me what's up. My biggest struggle was not masking with the epoxy, then it just went everywhere in varying thicknesses. Since there isn't a flat, really, it made it tough to flow and level.
Yeah, that's why I said you picked a tough one to start on. :D I have some techniques I have developed over time that work for me, they are slow, but mostly they work well. But it took many gallons of pouring that stuff to figure it out and it's not like riding a bike. Seems I have to figure it out all over again every time I do a major project. I guess I am just not that smart. ;D
Where I am on the bar right now I am hitting my stride and getting what I want on nearly the first shot, and it is still not easy, but does look good.
So yeah, I'll give your club head a shot because I love a challenge. :)
Quote from: tule peak timber on April 24, 2023, 05:19:38 PM
I have an Esquif Rangeley 17 on order. I want to add ouriggers a stiffer transom and some other goodies.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/rangeley_17.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682371098)
Love the Rangeley boats! Got a set of plans stashed, hopefully have one more boat build in me.
I thought about trying a technique of spin coating the putter, essentially pouring, then spinning the head around to fling everything off, but figured that may not work either.
On fishing rods, they will be put on a slow rotisserie to prevent sagging. Got an old BBQ rotisserie motor? Check out Goodwill.
Oh, that's a good idea! I was thinking much faster spin but slow roasting sounds nicer. I think I used to have a rotisserie but my wife probably chucked it.
I sawed and recently dried some 9/4 live edge sweet gum slabs. Never having made anything from sweet gum I decided to make a trial milking stool. Legs are black cherry, I thought when they darken they will add some interest.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_2006.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682906866)
I wanted the contrast between the sapwood and heartwood just to see what the result would be. The sapwood has a yellow tinge in it which doesn't come through in the picture.
The mortise and tenon leg joints are all with a 7 degree taper which traps the glue. I dried the tenons on these legs to less than 2 percent moisture content so that the seat puts them in a death grip in use.
Thinking about batch making some for the fall/Christmas craft fairs.
Dang Larry, that is one good lookin' little project!
If you you price them too high, and bring way too many to the Fall Fair, you'll still sell them all.
Nice work, and love the grain tone contrast.
Where's that 'like' button ? ?
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I'm building a spruce table for on my covered porch. Call it gaining experience with cheap wood (that I milled). My son asked if he could help sand so he got the underside. His choice of music in the worktunes earmuffs made it fun.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/IMG_3579.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1683056341)
I made this raised bed planter yesterday in about an hour or less. All done but putting the legs on. I went out this morning and put the legs on as shown, loaded it and 100 tomato stakes and took them to a local plant nursery/curb market. They had ordered the stakes and when they saw the planter they bought it too. I need to make another one or two as a local store is going to need some and I bet this one sells pretty fast where it is. I left another couple dozen stakes with another market a few blocks away.
Another picnic table down, this one was a little more work with planing and routering, but it turned out great. The seats are a little far away from the table, but if you'd met the guy that it's for you'd understand haha, 6'5" 400ish😬(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/C15132A4-920D-497D-820D-B26F82329245.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1683554592)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56534/995B6855-CA9A-49BB-8C6D-C775C52DC3B0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1683554592)
Well, slowly things are getting to a finished state. The other day I did a video on putting the legs on this bench but I didn't include any finished photo's in the video because I had touch up work remaining on the top. It started out looking like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230429_164131382.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1682897475)
So here's how it came out:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230509_103020897.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683720619)
Pretty hard to see the glue lines unless you follow the grain. I might be getting better at this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230509_103027796.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683720621)
The live edges don't look bad either.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230509_103007239.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683720625)
As always, the RiteLegs make my work look good.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230509_102959707.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683720791)
In that last one you can see the glue-up lines better. The center piece is a wedge cut off one slab then flipped 180° end for end to make the bench edges more parallel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230509_102944238.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683720278)
So this is RO that were the drops off of the dining room table and benches I made last fall. I thought it was a good way to use them up and it gives me a demo bench I can use to show off the RiteLegs at shows if I ever get to do any. The legs are something folks need to see before they will spend the money, I am finding. I still need to clean up those legs, they have dust in the tight corners and were in the logrite backroom for a 'while'. ;D
I saw it in person this morning, I can testify that it looks great.
Been working on a little upgrade for our closet. I just can't stomach the cost of those online closet companies so I made something even better. Our closet as a little small for two sides of hanging, but through some clever use of space, we are making it work. I still have to build out the other side which will just be a 2' wide tower with drawers and shelves then hanging on each side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49164/PXL_20230521_203258287.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1684754924)
Super job! I wish I had that kind of space and you make great use of it. All those drawers have to be real handy. Nice Job.
The drawers are to replace the dresser that's been through too many moves and is starting to fall apart. I did this whole project with prefinished maple plywood. A little bit of iron on edge banding and it's ready to install. It made the project go so much quicker!
and if you do not shell out a fortune and go to a big box store, you get what you pay for. a lot of cabinets are on pallets as clearance as is. I have seen them break or fall apart just trying to load them in a truck. Old Kenny opened his own cabinet shop. he said it was the highest profit margin when building a house.
Well since it is done, I should probably put up and official post on the bar project. First here is what I started with a couple of years ago:
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And here are some shots of the finished bar:
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230520_103704806~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1684804207)
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The top is all Ash from the same tree. Finished all over in epoxy. The shelf is Sycamore with ERC accents, finished in oil based polyurethane. The legs are customs from Rite Leg Company. I had them add the straps that the shelf sits on and raise the bottom edge of those side plates.
The client is happy and I am glad it's done and can't wait to deliver it. :)
That's one smooth finish.Looks like glass.Well done Tom,you're a lot better epoxy man than I am :laugh:
Almost looks like you know what you are doing!!!!! ;D
Well I think I am getting there Ray, little by little. ;D
There are some cobwebs in your lights up there Tom!
Uh, not really but that shine and reflection is great on a very nice piece of work. You should be very proud of yourself!
Last shot of the walnut table after rubout and polish. I built a little cart for transport to the clients home as the table is very difficult to pick up with the beveled knife edge.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Walnut_table_build_4_May2323.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1684933209)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Walnut_table_build_May2323.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1684933264)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Walnut_table_build_2_May2323.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1684933371)
Wow. That's beautiful. Does your crew deliver pieces like that to insure they get safely to their new homes?
What is it? Besides a beautiful piece of wood.
It is a 3-inch-thick table top I built for another wood working shop. As a sub-contractor I'm not responsible for moving or installation, just the build. There is a 45-degree bevel under the edge which makes this top very difficult to pick up or move. This top is part of a series of furniture pieces for a very interesting client. I have Tony do the final rub out as I lack the patience! :D
Roughing out a mid-century design table base today for a special slab that is still in the kiln. Mesquite.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/mid_century_table_base5_25_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1685047703)
nice. how much did the tabletop weigh? Mid-century modern, that is kind of what I am! :D
I want to say a "hundred something." I built as light as possible....... ;D
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I bought a cordless electric staple gun a few days ago and tried it out today building 6 of these simple crates out of poplar. I was using 1.5" X 18 gauge crown staples. I have mixed feelings. I like the staples but about half of them did not completely sink into the wood. In one case I had a knot and they would not go half way into it. I may take it back and see if they have a corded model with more power. I liked this one as it uses the same batteries my other cordless equipment does.
The crates fit 12 pint or 12 quart fruit/canning jars. A 1X8 works well for the quarts and a 1X6 works well for the pints. A pint sixed crate nests snugly inside the quart sized crate. I use 2" X 3/8" lath strips cut or salvaged when edging 2" poplar framing lumber. Using 1/2" drops on my SimpleSet takes a 1/8" kerf and returns a nice 3/8" strip which dries quickly and has good strength for this use and other projects.
I have the Milwaukee M18 crown stapler and it would do a good job on poplar with 1 1/2 staples but knots and hardwoods can be a problem with consistency of the depth when using 1 1/2 staples. If you have air, a good pneumatic one will allow you to handle any wood with pressure adjustments. My old Porter Cable pneumatic one is what I use in my shop for that reason plus it's very light. The M18 is great for fences and siding when I don't want to drag the compressor out.
I have a small cordless stapler that only throws like 5/8 nails or small staples. It works OK but also doesn't have enough beef to sink them all. It was a huge help for our ghetto fencing job, insulating the ceiling in the shop, and critter deterrent hardware cloth around barn floor.
A note about "crown staplers". All staples have crowns. The crown is across the top that connects the two legs. They're called names like narrow crown, medium crown, or the crown width will be listed in their name.
For instance one manufacturer may call staples with 1/4" or narrower "narrow crown staples".
Medium crown staples, depending on manufacturer mostly have 7/16 or 1/2 inch wide crowns.
Here is a picture, from left to right, a narrow crown stapler, two medium crown staplers, and a wide crown stapler.
The difference between the two medium crown staplers is that one shoots 15 gauge staples, and the other 16 gauge.
The other picture shows, narrow crown staples, both gauges of medium crown staples, and wide crown staples that the different guns shoot.
If I asked you to hand me the "crown stapler", which one would you grab.
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Well, going from one (complex, long running) extreme, to another (simple, quick and dirty). I whipped up 3 of these today, inspired by both Howard and Don P's efforts. I picked up a 1/4" stapler at HF for 25 bucks or so and a box of staples. We don't do canning anymore, but I did think of this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230530_171800607_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1685484659)
They hold a 6 pack of your favorite canned beverage nicely. All made with scrap or leftover material. The slats are made from a 3/8 x 12" x 12' piece I milled off a cant to hit the size I needed, the ends were left over 1x6 pine from a project 4 years ago. The handles were cut-offs from those log carriers we made back in the winter. The main expense was labor. Sue I could jig these things up and knock out a bunch in not time, but for just a few, the assembly was a 'one at a time thing' and each one was put together just a little bit different to test some theories out.
I am doing this little show over at the FD on Sunday and I thought maybe these might sell better than my benches. I figure a sign explaining I can make any size to order, with our without a handle. What do you guys think I could charge for these? Maybe 15 bucks? I will sell two (if I'm lucky maybe) and keep one for 'field testing'. I thought it might be a novelty for summer party season or something.
FYI OGH
The bud light and anything associated with Bud ain't selling these days.. ::) ;D 8)
Well, I ain't selling beer and that's not Bud Light (aka flavored water), but it is just a tiny notch above. :D ;D Guess I gotta make a sign that says "beverages not included".
I'm right certain I lose money at $20 per so you ought to be right in there at 15 :).
I picked up one of those HF narrow crown air staplers too, I think the 2 boxes of staples cost as much as the gun.
I sold 2 walnut trays fast, the third hasn't gone yet. A mahogany canning jar box and a couple of pine trays in the last month but i think I've saturated for awhile again, need to shift gears, maybe some OGH 6 pack/ garden totes ;D
My DIL requested a new mantle and said she wanted a rustic look.I told her she came to the right place,rustic is all I know :laugh:
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Tom,
Maybe you can advertise them as "Working Man tool chests" and sell them okay. ;) Good luck.
I'm debating whether to return my 20V stapler or return the staples and buy some 1-1/4" one and see if they work better. I liked the weight and speed but the staples just didn't drive up far enough.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on May 30, 2023, 06:29:05 PMThey hold a 6 pack of your favorite canned beverage nicely. All made with scrap or leftover material. The slats are made from a 3/8 x 12" x 12' piece I milled off a cant to hit the size I needed, the ends were left over 1x6 pine from a project 4 years ago. The handles were cut-offs from those log carriers we made back in the winter. The main expense was labor.
I made some of those. The making was the easy part for me. Sales were a struggle as is normal. I did sell a lot in a gated community where most of the homeowners have a pool. Somebody posted a picture of one on a neighborhood app and than everybody had to have one. At a craft show or market sales were slow.
I have two of the Dewalt narrow crown pneumatic staplers. Most of the time they work well but in hardwood with long staples I've had trouble. I may have turned up the air pressure above max once or twice to solve the problem. ;D
Well I am only trying to hold on a 5/16" thick slat, so I just went with the 1" staples and they sink in fine. Nice thing about pneumatic is that you have a regulator to turn up. Not so much with battery. ;D If it's a strictly shop tool I buy either wired or air powered. If it might need to be used in the field, I think about batteries, at least so far.
I went out after dinner and knocked off two more crates just for my small table products. I figured I could use them for transport, then put them out for talking points. I'd rather just take orders and make what folks want rather than try to build and guess what people want and have them hanging around. I don't have the storage room and I am working on another table that will bring me close to filling up my space. Gotta sell some of this stuff... soon.
Howard, I like that "working man's too chest" and I may just use that. If nothing else, it's a talking point.
Don, thanks for the encouragement ;D. If you lose money at $20 then that confirms what I was thinking. I brought in the prototype in at dinner time and the wife was barely impressed. I asked what she thought on price and she said "I dunno, 7 bucks?" I told her it was worth more as firewood with less labor involved. The two that I knocked out this evening took about an hour, so 1/2 hour a piece, which seems fair. About 10 bucks in labor, plus materials. I don't see how I could do these regularly for much less than 20 bucks. I settled on $15 just to have a cheap sale item. If I sell two, it pays for the stapler and half a box of staples. I expect this 'show' I am doing will not generate a single dime, but what the heck, you never know, right?
I need the 'exposure', right? :D :D (if you are a performing musician, you will understand the reference.)
Look great Tom and Wlmedley!
Tom, those should be listed for 20 bucks but negotiated to 15. Maybe make a few that are legit tool boxes with the side and bottom slats that close the whole thing, so you can toss a bunch of small tools in there. My wife uses them a lot when she's gardening (also a good staging tip for the show), she tosses some gloves, a little shovel, maybe some shears, etc. Edit- A gardening kit box, staged with that stuff, then sold brings another 10 bucks or more.
You could also make a kid version and go get some cheap painting kits to sell with the crate, for a fun project for the kids (or for the kids to make for Father's Day).
I think if you stage a couple well it'll help them move.
People often don't have a good grasp of material and labor costs for small woodworking items and the cheap foreign stuff available doesn't help.
I built some cutting boards with scrap pieces of maple and cherry one winter to clean up my shop and have something to do. I gave them all away to friends and family. SIL sees one and says "can you make me a round cherry charcuterie board - the one I was looking at was $50.00!!!" I didn't have enough scrap left so had to buy a cherry board. With the time and material I had into the board I should have asked her where she saw the finished board for $50 as I could have saved money...
Pricing is a never ending problem (for me). I am no longer allowed to ask my wife's opinion on pricing because she comes up with some really low prices on things that won't even cover materials sometimes, let alone return something for my time. I just can't go that low and make anything on it. She never complains when I bring home 3 grand on a custom dining room table though.
Here's a case in point, let's call it a poster child for discussion. I have a show tomorrow and just completed this one this morning after the proper brass screws I ordered arrived.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230602_084845053.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1685839641)
Those legs are original (old) Singer Sewing machine legs, which I wire brushed and repainted gloss black.
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The shelf and stretcher are Sycamore which I bought for too much. Shelf is about 6/4 and the stretcher is octagonal stock I made from the same board.
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The top was a badly cupped RO slab with 2 live edges. To remove the cup I ripped it down the center, planed the 2 halves to (nearly) flat, jointed it and re-glued them back together.
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In the photo above you can see the temp screws I used for fit up. The screws that are on the shelf and stretcher were replaced this morning with brass flatheads I had to order (5/16-18 ) and look great. The screws in the top are now 1/4-20 black steel socket head cap screws because of random hole location that existed on the legs before I got them and side clearance issues. I used threaded inserts in the wood at all connection points and those 5/16 inserts were more pricey than I thought (3x what I pay for the 1/4-20's). The finish all over is oil based polyurethane. Total time on the project was about 5 days between all the other work I have to do. So lets say I actually had 12 hours on it actually working. Perhaps it was less.
So there you have a test case. How would YOU price this? I know markets are different everywhere, but let's just say you price it for what YOU think you could/would sell it for. If you have a good or poor market location, maybe mention that in your comments just for balance. There are no wrong answers here. I think I wrote down a price for this on my inventory list and it was based on comparison to my other work with similar materials, but I can't remember it right now and it's not cast in stone. In any event, I'd like to hear what others say before I weigh in. No, you can't hurt my feelings on this, so don't worry about that. I really want to hear about how others think this stuff through. Given all the constant conversation on what to charge for a BF of rough sawn lumber, I think this would be a worthy conversation.
Tom, I wouldn't have any idea what price to put on it.If it's like my area if you price it high people will think it's really nice but they can't afford it and if you price it low they think it's probably not worth anything.Now if you give it away they will gladly take it and then tell you that you could have got a small fortune for it if you had put it up for sale :laugh:
It is cool, and everyone will think it is cool. the problem with rustic, is many think they can go out to the yard and grab a log and make one in and hour. I would want at least 30 bucks an hour so that is about $400 including some for materials. I would take a thousand if offered. :) the finish and proportions are fantastic. you really are a woodworker!
My wife is a sewer and quilter, and I know what I'd pay for it if I found it at a shop.
But I do think I would insult your craftsmanship and hard work if I said that price "out loud".
However, I would pay the same for just the old sewing machine frame too with original patina.
Beenthere, as I said, you can't hurt my feelings here. It's a discussion. I think it's safe to agree that 50 bucks is a bit low and these legs often sell for that or a little more. (But if that what you think, say so.) I have even see the original tables with the treadle sell for that, just missing the machine. My wife (a quilter too) has a complete, restored working one in her room. Don't dance around it, tell us what you think. :)
If it helps, go back to the last bench I posted in this thread with the white Rite Legs on it (Reply #1029 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=119201.msg1981021#msg1981021)). I bought those legs at a deep discount because they were old stock with some dings and wear and were painted a 'no longer used' color, plus I get a 'builders discount'. The slab was also pieced together drops from another job. The overall quality is good. Because of that I priced it at $250. maybe that will give you a comparison, but I don't want to sway this in either direction. I'd like a discussion, not a 'feel good'.
Very nice. i think 450 wouldn't be to much for some markets.
150 materials. 100 for legs so you can buy 2 more sets and 50 for wood.
around here I would price it at $250.
That would be reasonable unless you wanted to sell it quick then you would have to give it away and offer delivery and installation at your cost. even then you would have to tape a $50 bill to it just to get rid of it.
Wish I was joking but thats how it is around here.
Price it for what it needs to be for your efforts, get it placed with a gallery. You will have to pay the consignment fee, but you don't have to deal with the sale.
Quote from: rusticretreater on June 04, 2023, 10:52:23 AM
Price it for what it needs to be for your efforts, get it placed with a gallery. You will have to pay the consignment fee, but you don't have to deal with the sale.
And the tire kickers.
GAB
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At our local flea market today I picked up the old Singer sewing machine legs from a vendor. I have had my Lichtenburg contractor who is there every week looking for them for me as he mentioned he saw several come through last month.
This is the first Singer stand I have seen of this style. Always before the style I had seen were the heavier cast iron style as shown on Tom's table above. This set of legs seems to have been stamped and is lighter weight than the cast iron. I am speculating Singer went to this model later in their career as a cost saving measure as I do not see them as the same high quality as the cast iron legs like Tom has. They will still make a nice little table when a pretty Live Edge Slab is added.
I had already planned on brushing and painting this a glossy black. I am not planning on removing the the treadle and wheel. The Singer Logo is hard to see in the picture but it on the plate in the middle and on the foot treadle.
I had not read this thread yesterday after Tom posted his table and I am a more than a little concerned to find us thinking along similar lines. :o ::) :D :D
I am interested to see what kind of price this piece brings so I have a better idea what I may be able to expect from mine even though I am sure Tom's is better quality than what I will be able to produce.
There is an old singer sewing machine in a local flea market style venue I have been watching and thought several times about buying it. Unfortunately it does still have the machine and woodwork and could be restored to working order if the right purist comes along. I don't have the heart to destroy it just to use the legs to make a table. Maybe I should be more heartless and more business minded.
My mom has one or two of these at home in Fla but she put a thin sheet of granite on as a top instead of wood.
BTW - purchase price for these legs/stand was $12.
I'm with Crusarius. Up here you would be lucky to get $250 for it unless you rented a space at a tourist trap like the Windmill Farm market that has many high end visitors mixed in with the tourists. One thing that would distract me from buying something like that is we all have different tastes. For some reason I don't like the wood spindle across the bottom because it distracted me from the legs and probably would have gone with a thin matching black steel rod that doesn't draw your eye to it along with leaving the original patina on the legs. Once you get over a certain price items are no longer an impluse buy so a local flea market will probably draw lower offers. I feel in the end you should be able to get $50 an hour for dedicated time spent on a project like that and just have to find the proper clientele to market to. The Chinese and Indians are getting good at creating cheap rustic that will draw away many customers that have no knowledge of what it takes to produce a beautiful custom one off item. As we all know inflation has also become a problem on both ends.
Interesting set of legs you've got there. I have never seen that style around here. Looks like the treadle parts are unchanged form the older ones though. After my post this morning I checked CL and found several sets available, none were less than $85.00. Some had tops I wouldn't use anyway, junk. In any event, what you have should clean up nicely and make a nice easy able that looks great. Yours should be just as good as mine all day long, I think.
Which brings me to the one I built. Took it to a show today and saw little interest in any of my stuff from actual buyers. BUT one woman was really taken with that sewing machine table. SHe came back twice, asked for dimensions and wrote them down. She took my card, but really I don't expect to hear from her, but at least it was a response.
I have a friend that does high end cabinetyry and stuff like that. he said if they come back to look at it 2 times then take measurements. then come back a third time to measure they will buy but if the third time never happens its a dead deal
I did pretty good today.My SIL and brother came up today for a visit and she really liked a red oak bench I made awhile back.I told her to take it home if she wanted it.Wasn't getting much use sitting in my woodshed.My brother inherited our old home place and there is an old stone wall there that is falling down and built out of large cut stone. I need a few of them to repair my barn foundation and they said I could have all I wanted so we both got what we wanted and all are happy.
Tom,
The treadle and wheel do not move on the set I bought today but I am confident with a little WD-40 or Blue Creeper it will not take much to free them up and I will do that before any sanding or painting and well before putting a top on it.
Maybe I should market it to the various sewing and cloth shops my wife frequents. It would look good there I bet. You may try that with yours. I'll have to check on the inserts. Since I only plan on adding a top and no shelf or stretcher the fasteners will not show anyway.
I seen many singer machines, but none like that one.
Tom you did a great job.
I have one in the women cave that I need to do that too. Been there for more than 10 years.
Old Greenhorn - I would agree that HERE that table would probably sell around the $250-300 range. I've come to the conclusion over the years that on smaller projects like that, at least around here, it's extremely hard to make a decent hourly wage making one-of projects. The only way to optimize your time is with multiples. If you pump enough of the same thing out you can get efficient enough to make a decent hourly wage (if you can sell them all.) The small projects I do I just look for a little extra coin in my pocket and don't look at the hours it takes to get there. More to help someone out, keep myself busy, or built something I've always wanted to.
The only projects I can manage to make a decent hourly wage on seem to be custom built-ins. When I compete against other craftsman instead of big box or furniture stores I can increase my pricing. There's too much cheap furniture out there and most people don't know the difference. Between that and the amount of "Amish made" furniture in this area it's just not a market I want to compete in. I stopped doing spec. work years ago for those reasons. That and I have a hard time finding the line between good enough and how I want it. I can pour hours into a detail that only another craftsman will notice, and they aren't buying it.
Some guys can make a table like that and sell it within an hour for $2k, I don't have that market and I'm not that kind of marketer.
One suggestion I might offer. If you haven't yet, try a matte finish on your next project. Most higher end houses I've been in lately don't tend to have a high gloss finish on any furniture.
There was a retired gentleman here that restored those old sewing machines. He had a machine and wood shop and it was filled with old machines. He passed a year or two ago and that is the last person I knew of who restored them. I kind of hate to see them repurposed, I remember pumping my grandmothers, but I've sure worked off of a sheet of plywood screwed to more than one. I guess I'm not the right customer, I've never looked twice at buying one.
But if you want to motorize it, I think I have the upgrade kit ;D
Well Don, I knew you would take that angle on this stuff because your are a 'restoration guy' and always will be. I agree. My dad (and me too a little) restored a LOT of stuff over the decades to full functional usage as original as possible. I have seen a lot of these machines in complete condition going for very cheap at estate sales, the price was more than tempting, but I just could not get myself to throw out the machine so I could make something else out of it. I would leave it go in the hope somebody would restore it. My wife already has one treadle machine in fine shape and about 3 or 4 other modern machines she uses (that I know of). We don't need another. But these legs were all we were given, there was nothing else. SO I felt fine just using them as is. I could not keep the "original patina" as 21 suggested because most folks will not buy something that is all rust. They really needed paint as they were pretty bad. 21 seems to have a very specific set of aesthetic requirements and although is suggestions would certainly work and might appeal to someone more, I just just to use materials I had available rather than add more expense and time. I do not have a running lathe right now and my available steel is limited and I save it for real needs. Ironically, the woman who looked at it long and hard made a positive comment about how that stretcher added to the contrast. I'll have to look into that matte finish. Never thought of it that way. Most folks want something shiny that's easy to dust and looks clean. Matte would be easier I think.
I understand everyone's pricing theories stated here and certainly, we all agree, the market area you are in is the biggest single element. Consignment shops can be good outlets, but lately it seems they all want at least 40% of the sale price and many have time limits and other restrictions or add on costs. One local one we have with great traffic and location I contacted had a very provincial attitude (actually borderline snotty) and only wanted a particular type of stuff that was poorly defined. It boiled down to what struck the owners fancy and did not compete too closely to what he built for sale. Those conversations did not end well. I later learned from other folks that had tried getting work in there that he is snotty to everyone and hard to work with and those folks also walked away. So having done this show and learned what I did, I think I have to find another couple of shows and put in the effort, but it sure is quite an effort.
Tom,
As I mentioned I found a complete machine and stand that could be bought at a reasonable price (Around $50 I suspect) but did not have the heart to repurpose it and hope someone restores it. Mom has/had one but I don't know why as she never really got beyond the iron on patch skill level. My wife has high end Bernina machines and can sew anything including prom gowns, wedding dresses, 3 piece suits, etc. but mostly now she quilts and sews some BOP (Bureau of Prisons) logos on my sons work clothes and some for his friends. She has a 120" quilting frame so can do King sized quilts for herself and an occasional friend.
I still remember many of this old foot pedaled machines in use in little shops in Africa. In fact a co-worker (Our project security manager and his wife) who was looking for ways to help the local Cameroonian/African workers was considering providing machines to individuals so they could start a career and earn a living. He said you could not give them start up money as family and friends would con them out of it. His big concern was them simply selling the sewing machines for immediate cash.
My roomie was talking to a lady Wachenhut guard we had hired at our apartment. She worked 72 hours a week (6 - 12 hour shifts/week) for about $50/month and asked her what she wanted to do with her life and she said she wanted to be a hair dresser but she could never save up enough money to buy a hair dryer to get started. The next trip home on R&R Jack bought her a hair dryer for $25-$30, she quit Wachenhut, set up a hair salon on a street corner and the last we talked to her she was making about $200/month working 4-5 hours a day doing what she wanted to do with her life.
Anyway right now I just don't have the heart to destroy a rebuildable sewing machine to use the legs for a knick-knack table. If I make big money off this one I might become more mercenary and change my mind.
BTW - I enjoy the shows but it is a lot of work to load benches and wood pieces carefully so they do not get damaged. I use a lot of HF moving blankets for that purpose.
Oh I agree. I have enough to do already and don't need to be further destroying things that could be restored. I have a bunch of stuff I have picked up cheap at flea markets and yard sales just because I would like to put them back in original working condition. Most of these are the big crosscut saws (I think I have 8 now) plus a pit saw. But adzes, broadaxes, drawer knives, and anything of that ilk are fair game.
There's always legs on C/L if you want to pay their price, no need to rip a machine apart and scrap half of it.
In this case, all I had were the two legs and nothing else, so I worked with that.
'Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.' That's my motto. :D
Tom,
People like us have the disease which keeps us from getting rich. We keep thinking how to repair and restore things while others just look for the profit and have no concerns about history or nostalgia or such.
I read or heard the tale (May or may not be true but illustrates the point) about a failing railroad who just could not make enough money to break even. The owner finally sold it. The man who bought it cheap took the equipment and resold it to other railroads to recover what he had already paid. Then he ripped up the rails and ties and sold them for a tidy profit. When done with that he sold the land to real estate developers and became filthy rich.
Its all how you look at an object sometimes I guess.
If we saw an old sawmill we'd want to fix it where an outsider would see it as worth more for parts, scrap metal, or artwork. ::)
EDIT-UPDATE: I sprayed the contact points for the moving parts on my new to me Singer frame with WD-40 and spun the wheel and everything rotates and such as designed. The foot pedal sticks but it moves so that is good to see.
I went to a estate sale for a deceased woodworker last Saturday. His daughters and granddaughters were running the sale. Somehow they found out that I made hand mirrors which was a perfect fit for their plan. They approached me about a little trade. There was a maple tree that had died in the front yard. It was sawed into lumber for woodworking but nothing was ever made. As a memento from the home place they each wanted a hand mirror made from the tree. So.....
These are the six mirrors I made. I usually spray maple with CAB lacquer to keep the white but they wanted an oil finish. I used the Sam Maloof finish.
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I hope they will be happy.
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got the charcuterie board made for my neighbor, who just graduated form trinity HS. Oak with some character. she got to help make it. Had the power outage had not fried my hard drive, I would have had it done for graduation.
Larry, where do you source the mirrors and how do you fit/fasten them in the wooden part. can we see a pic of the other side. very nice.
This is my mirror supplier.
Beveled Glass Mirrors (https://www.collectingwarehouse.com/Beveled-Glass-Mirror-Round-3mm-4-Diameter)
Some suppliers sell mirrors that are not round, have rough edges, or vary in diameter up to 1/16". The one in my link is good and fairly inexpensive compared to others.
I turn a recess in the wood to hold the mirror. The mirror can be glued in with lots of different types of glue. I use silicone caulk which holds the mirror just fine. If it gets broken its easy to put in a replacement using caulk.
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The recess is not complete in the picture. I take out as much wood as possible to make it light weight than the mirror seats on a small rim of wood.
The blue tape is on my shop made vacuum chuck. The chucks lets me make them on a production basis. I've made a few hundred.
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A few more from the past. I've made a lot of different designs. The mirrors have been surpassed by technology.....most girls use their phones instead of a hand mirror these days. For that reason they are slow sellers and I seldom make them anymore.
Made a table a couple years ago out of a bent poplar tree that had died behind my garage.Made the frame out of walnut that had been in the barn for at least 35 years.At the time all I had was a large hand plane and I got fairly flat and finished it with some sort of tung oil finish.Top wasn't very smooth and hard to keep clean.Recently bought a Dewalt electric hand held plane and decided to redo it.Finished with 3 coats of spar urethane and it looks a lot better.Not perfect but plenty good enough for my back porch.
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I picked up this old sewing machine and stand at our local flea market this morning. I'll take the top and the machine off. I guess the sewing machine will go in the scrap pile. Not sure what I'll do with the wood. The round top has the Singer logo on it.
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The sewing machine is an electric Singer but the stand is a Climax brand. I never heard of a Climax brand sewing machine before.
I will put a live edge wood slab on the stand to make a table out of it.
Well, a quick search and I found this Howard:
"The Climax sewing machine company was a sub company of the New Home Sewing Machine company of Chicago, Illinois. They were manufactured from the Mid 19th to the early 20th Century. Singer bought out New Home in the early 1920's."
SO are you going to keep the original patina as 21incher prefers, or paint the legs? That table I made gets a lot of attention, you should be able to get a good price for it.
Tom,
Thanks for the history.
I am inclined to clean it up and paint it a glossy black. I will reconsider once I get the legs separated from the body.
BTW - purchase price was $15 so I am not going to be out too much no matter what happens with it.
Holy Cow! 15 bucks? You would never find that around here. I would buy a bunch at that price and do a line of tables. Around here there are none under 65 bucks, for just legs. Full machines run about 150.
Yeah, he first asked $20 then I asked if that was his best price and he said "How about $15" and I said that sounded reasonable, paid him and told him I'd pick it up on the way out.
Now I am torn with what to do with the sewing machine? Throw it in the scrap metal bin or see if anyone wants to buy it? Maybe I need to put it on the "Do You Need" board here.
The portable part does look like the one big sis bought in a pawn shop before heading off to college, it was an antique 50 years ago. The cover was looking like 2 curve top radio cases... if you were needing another project.
The curved top has the SINGER log on it and has little ears and locks into the frame on the stand so it was built for this use and not something someone modified if that is what you are wondering.
Ahh, hers had that top on a portable bottom. It was a portable "suitcase".
Procrastinating in the gloom, off to Lowes, we're going to biscuit 2 slabs together to make an island top to match a peninsula we made last week.
Finishing a little wall art this evening. The last step before putting on a finish is too take the piece outside and sand/examine in raking sunlight. Photographers call it the Golden Hour. My shop has enough light for an operating room but it won't come close to showing defects like natural raking light will. With sculpted forms it becomes even more important.
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If I ever build another shop I'll have a bay of windows to take advantage of that light.
Larry, you have obviously spent a good amount of time sanding to get that fine finish. Pays off in the end.
Really nice Larry. I'm a big fan of wood that "moves" in shape. 8)
My sister was up for a visit a couple weeks ago and was looking at my wood collection.She said she had a little shelf in her bathroom made out of particle board that was coming apart and wandered if I could make a replacement.She lives in Harrisonburg Virginia and I told her to send me a picture when she got home.I think I matched it pretty good.Also she says I have a lot better prices than they have in Virginia.She said she will paint it white so I used mostly poplar.
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Good job on the replacement.
Looks like it might be a week long washout. We had a guy day in the shop.
As close as we get to spandex.
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Michelle said the cardboard box she has carried her market scale around in had died. So, she needed a box with a top.
The infill panel on the ends was as thin as I've used ~1/4" thick, the "framing" on the ends was 3/4x~1". The sides and bottom were ~3/8" thick. I think the poplar on the top was around 5/16" thick. I never cranked the planer today, this was scraps floating around the shop. I was shooting for thin and light and not all the noisy tools at once..
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I found that old piano hinge but need to pick up some tiny screws for it. When she unboxes at the market the scale can sit on the box.
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maybe can throw cash in there while the sales are a flying.
Making progress, finally, without threat of injury, on this dang cutting board/ stove cover for my sister's little camper. I've made some noise over on the Did something dumb thread (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=105351.msg1987021#msg1987021) about not listening to you guys about hogging out material from above rather than below with this (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=119201.msg1925780#msg1925780) crazy table. So, I flipped everything over and messed with it, finding I didn't quite have the router bit throw to get deep enough into the trench, so I spent about 100 bucks on some stuff that I thought would help. It didn't. I re-evaluated my setup and hiked up my big boy britches and got into it last night. I'm now approximately to the depth I want, though I need some edge cleanup. I like it. I've got a few weeks to finish it up so my sister can take it on a trip in August. This setup worked really well with my slab flattening jig, everything slid on the 80/20 beautifully. Man, what a mess though.
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Just think of all the things you learned, as well as knowledge and experience under your belt. never would have happened otherwise. If any of the old guys sound smart and know things you never thought of, it may be from projects like this that at the time seemed like a lot of frustration and waste of time. It will be cherished I am sure.
Quote from: aigheadish on June 27, 2023, 06:36:54 AM
Making progress, finally, without threat of injury, on this dang cutting board/ stove cover for my sister's little camper. I've made some noise over on the Did something dumb thread (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=105351.msg1987021#msg1987021) about not listening to you guys about hogging out material from above rather than below with this (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=119201.msg1925780#msg1925780) crazy table. So, I flipped everything over and messed with it, finding I didn't quite have the router bit throw to get deep enough into the trench, so I spent about 100 bucks on some stuff that I thought would help. It didn't. I re-evaluated my setup and hiked up my big boy britches and got into it last night. I'm now approximately to the depth I want, though I need some edge cleanup. I like it. I've got a few weeks to finish it up so my sister can take it on a trip in August. This setup worked really well with my slab flattening jig, everything slid on the 80/20 beautifully. Man, what a mess though.
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Nice job. The next one will be easier now that you have mastered learning from your mistakes and moving on.
Indeed! I'm hoping to have time to laser engrave a surprise on the inside of the cutting board. Not sure how that'll go or if I have time.
I realized last week that my son's canoe paddle was too short for him. I got it last year for him with a canoe I bought and it was the perfect length for him. Well, then he decided to grow like 5" and now he needs a paddle about the lenght of mine or even longer, because he is actually taller than me now. So, a few days ago I started making a paddle. I made the shaft with cypress that I cut into 1/4" strips and glued up. Our other paddles are Bending Branches brand and are made with much thinner layers. I wasn't about to cut 1/16" strips. Today I cleaned up all of the glue and squared the shaft up with the jointer and planer. Then I glued a few pieces of walnut and maple onto the shaft for the blade and handle. This will no doubt me a little heavier than our originals, but not by too much. I'm thinking of beefing up the end of the blade with some kevlar fabric. I can't wait for it to be done.
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This morning I shaped the handle. I'm pretty happy with it. Sorry the pic is out of focus. Then I cut out the shape of the blade and began to sculpt it. It started out about 13/16" thick. Right now I've got it down to a little less than 1/2", but I need to get most of it a lot thinner than that. I want it to be about 1/4" at the very end and then a little thicker as it goes back toward the shaft where it of course has to taper up. It's still a little heavy due to the thickness.
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Any of the dark wood on my cutting board, above, is, apparently, pretty brittle. I'm doing some chiseling and I've broken a glue bond once (which ran through a grain of the darker wood), which glued back up nicely. Then I was whacking away again on it last night and had a major, but very shallow blow-out from the inside to the outside of the piece. I don't think I can get glue in there, and while it's shallow I think it's too deep to sand out.
I feel like this project will be started over. I have about a month to complete it, though I thought it would only take about a week to begin with.
If I have some nice wood sitting around I may glue up a new, thinner, top, then trim it with pieces that are longer, basically building the concave section instead of hogging it out with a router I'm afraid of. It should be much easier, faster, and if I do it right it'll look basically the same while probably being stronger.
This project has been surprisingly frustrating and I'm certainly learning that I need to do more research (and listen to advice!) before starting projects I don't understand. While this isn't the best wood in the world it is some of the only good wood I have around.
Austin, What are you whacking away on? Given how close you are to completion I am wondering why there is any need for chisel work?
When I do use chisels I rarely tap with a mallet, just slide the chisel by hand to shave off wood. If it is gross grain, then of course I need to use a mallet, but mostly it is tapping, not whacking. Just take it in layers. Your chisels need to be razor sharp or your cut surfaces will not be smooth and it won't cut well, leading to tearing, slipping, and injury.
Blow outs can be filled with clear epoxy and sanded out flat. (Tape the far side well first.) In dark wood, all you see is the wood color behind the epoxy.
Got any photos?
My fear, incompetence, and lack of correct jigs with the router caused me to give it up in the name of safety and sanity, so I was trying the chisel, to ill effects. It's leaving a rough but likely sandable finish.
I don't have any photos of the cracks, I may be able to get one here in a little bit. My hope is to just oil the board, so I'm not sure epoxy would work for this application?
All in all, I'm probably better to just remake the whole thing. I think I may have gone too thin for the top anyway. I thought I wanted to remove a bunch of material to make it lighter weight but then it felt a bit flimsy.
I don't know. Yet another thing that really tests my patience with this stuff.
So, if you do go from scratch, making profiles like a tall, shallow C for the middle pieces is a great idea.
Not as elegant and maybe it was tried or mentioned, you can clamp some stops on your table saw for starting, stopping as well as left and right. You set your glue up over there retracted blade and start it up. Raise the blade and make your cuts like you're on a router table.
When done in one direction, rotate 90°, reset your stops and clean up the edges. The corners will be sloped and maybe ok? Or you could go about cleaning them up.
a hundred ways to do this. I like the idea of testing your patients. It is the true artist that continues. Each rendition get better and better. anything unsafe also tends to be un-reproducible and less attractive as well. If you have to "hold your teeth just right". It is amazing what can be fixed with wood. After a hundred or so you will be able to mass produce and make them all perfect. you will find a better way.
Karate Kid Lesson 4 (Paint the Fence) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R37pbIySnjg)
there is also the floor sanding and wax on wax off scenes if anyone likes. :D
I needed to reduce the thickness of the paddle blade and I was considering how to do it. I then thought about the mill-route I've had hanging on the wall and listed for sale last week. It occurred to me that I might be able to use it route the paddle thinner. It worked well once I figured out how to secure the paddle. I decided not to sell it, but dismantled it so it doesnt take up much room. Someday I might use the parts to make a router plane. I might need to locate some more of the extrusions that the frame is made with.
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I forgot a picture of the broken part, but here you can see what I was aiming for. After some utubing I found the smart people made a template that would sit on the edge of the piece and a bearing on the router would ride along that, with a router sled of sorts to make this all happen pretty easily. I think I can make the whole project work pretty well, starting fresh, and gluing the sides in place, rather than hogging out material. That gives me the option for more appropriate wood and maybe a better glue up job. It also gives me the opportunity to visit a lumber yard I've heard good things about and it's only about 10 minutes from the house. Also, I apparently need to invest in an aimable spotlight or two. Either my eyes are going or it's too dark in the shop.
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I used to make some trays with hogged out centers. I would do it upside down on my router table. I made a frame that the piece fit inside and you could move it all around until everything was hogged out. It worked, but it was more difficult if the frame required was bigger than the top of my router table.
Yeah, that was my initial attempt but it got sketchy for me pretty quickly, though it's how the majority of this hole was created.
looks like a bearing guided bit could follow your top lines and clean up the edges around the tray. your end grain will match if you use full thickness stock. you can get some plexiglass and make an oversized base you can see through. the top bearing flush cut bit with a round bottom can follow a template and then follow the original cut on down to the depth you want and leave nice, rounded corners.
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I used one just like that. 1 1/4" diameter. It's not great at plunging. You have to do passes of about 1/4" at a time.
Thanks Doc, that's another thing I thought I had on hand but turned out I didn't. All my bearing bits were bearings on the bottom. Not of much use for this! I bought a new router base that has bearings you can screw into that'll ride a straight line like these roller bearings but I can't extend the bit deep enough to take advantage of it before the chuck starts hitting the screw on bearing.
More to add to my frustrations!
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
I think the ones that screw clamp into the base are referred to as bushings. you can start with those then switch to the bearing flush cut bit. measure the length of the collar on the bushing to know how thick a template to use. I use Masonite and cut it on the laser for things like a circle. if it must be precise the you over size or under size it a bit. That is how I did the glass bell grove in the boards I made for My regional director to give to his wife to display candle in her store.
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Yup, bushings is the name, it felt like I had that wrong but I didn't remember bushing!
I think they are used interchangeable (the name) on some larger equipment and depending on who wrote the Manuel. no big deal. It helps to find stuff on amazon if you know what the majority call them. the tray does not look bad that i can see. can you fix this one and give it to your least favorite sister in law? :)
Fed the Byrd this morning. Making a small table with curvy legs. Made a MDF pattern to run against my Byrd pattern cutter. One side is for the convex curve and the other side is for the concave curve.
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The Byrd leaves a nice enough finish I can start sanding with 220 or maybe 320 grit sandpaper.
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Next step is to cut some mortise's for the stretchers than I can taper the adjacent leg faces.
The table is being made to show off a little art treasure. Straight leg tables are nice, but tables with curvy legs are sexy........and sex brings more $$$$$'s. ;D
And kind of in the same vein, I'm not sure what you call that big byrd router bearing, we called it a rub collar. Pretty legs Larry ;D
I decided to try again, fresh and new for the cutting board, so I went to the local lumber yard. They have some nice stuff. I got an 8' long piece of walnut, a 10' long piece of maple, and probably 5' long piece of cherry, of which they did not have a great supply. I spent Saturday cleaning up the edges and squaring stuff up. This is the before picture with the long pieces cut in half so I could fit them in my car. Next will be ripping some strips and doing the glue-up. I plan to oversize this one so I have some shoulders to ride the router on, then cut it down to size. I'm thinking from this much wood I should be able to make 2- 4 cutting boards. I have yet to do the real math of piece widths.
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The little table I'm working on is beginning to look like something. The assembly I'm gluing up are the lower rails and attach to the legs. I was happy with my really tight joints. Went in the house for a quick sandwich. When I came back out I noticed the rail on the right was glued in upside down. They have a flat on one side and a slight curve on the other....I had that one reversed.
Luck would have it, the glue was not set and I was able to re-glue. Of course now I will worry if it is a good joint.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_2507.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689213567)
Okay, I am hoping no industrial spies are checking this site before my pattern gets approved. :D
This is more of the "Common Man" projects. ;)
I was talking to my cleaning lady yesterday about coons getting into the dog food stored on the front porch and she suggested buying a metal trash can to keep it in. I said "Why buy metal when I can make wood?" This morning I measured an unopened 50 lb sack of dog food then went out and grabbed a few stock 4/4 poplar boards, cut them on my RAS and built the bin below. It looks like it will work fine.
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The inside dimensions are 8" W X 20" D X 29" T. I used 1X8s for the bottom and sides, 1X6's for the sides and a 1X10 for the top with a couple of 2X2 strips inside the bottom and cap/top for nailers. I used all nails instead of screws. It is pretty hard to open for a coon. If worst come to worst I'll add a locking feature to the top but unless a bear gets on the porch I doubt that is ever needed.
I need to make something like that for the pantry, like they say about the old rounder, an empty sack just cant stand upright. I really need a 2 bagger I can turn around to the fresh bag while replacing the empty.
I seem to be going thinner and thinner on the canning jar boxes. This is all about 5/16" thick black willow, the branch gave up 4 "boards" about 1/2" thick several years ago. I saw them last week and planed them down. Clear brush on water based poly seems to be the best bang for the buck on these. It should hold a dozen jelly jars. We sawed up a little sassafras a few weeks ago I've got upstairs in the barn with a fan on it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/willow_box.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689290497)
A 36" plastic culvert was $1100 today.
One feature I did not discuss was the handles. Those are a real simple design that works real well on any rough/rustic wood project. Just take a piece of 3-4 inch wide scrap, cut it 4-6 inches long and turn your table saw blade to cut a 45* angle, set the fence so the blade cuts the full thickness, cut one side, reverse and cut the other. Then turn the narrow side in and nail or screw to a box top or a wooden door or gate. This makes a very serviceable, dirt cheap handle to lift or open anything with.
This allows you to easily place 4 fingers under one side and your thumb on the other and lift or pull as needed. I use them on my wooden composting toilet/outhouse doors for a perfect match for decor desired.
Don,
Back to your comment about a 2- bagger you could easily add a partition using another 1X8 (in my example and a couple of 1" stickers for runners in the middle on each side with a 1" space for the partition board but that will make a very large and heavy bin to move and take up space. You could add the runners after the sides are on by just screw them securely from the outside.
I have about 4" of clearance between the top and the contents. I figure I will use about 45 or so lbs of the dog food, pull the nearly empty sack out, put another full one in, shake it down good, then put the nearly empty bag back on top. You can just add extra space on the the top with that in mind and leave room to put the partial bag on top of the full one.
I've been working towards being able to sell cornmeal to the local stores which involves the blessing of the state. One of the things I have to do is either work in the back of a closed truck, or screen the back opening. So i started making a screen frame and a door frame. This board had made it a bunch of steps before this caught my eye. At first I thought DanG fence. but look, no knife damage, its lead.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/101_7377.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689471422)
I'm working on cornbread samplers. They're getting closer and somebody has to dispose of the experiments.
9 mind numbing chapters into the foodservice ServSafe manual so far, and there will be a class and test this week, oh joy :D.
I think I need to figure out some kind of display rack with 1 & 5 lb bags.
Poplar trees must attract bullets. I found several sawing some of mine.The more I think about it I was probably the fellow that shot them :laugh:
Quote from: Don P on July 15, 2023, 09:42:59 PM
I've been working towards being able to sell cornmeal to the local stores which involves the blessing of the state. One of the things I have to do is either work in the back of a closed truck, or screen the back opening. So i started making a screen frame and a door frame. This board had made it a bunch of steps before this caught my eye. At first I thought DanG fence. but look, no knife damage, its lead.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/101_7377.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689471422)
I'm working on cornbread samplers. They're getting closer and somebody has to dispose of the experiments.
9 mind numbing chapters into the foodservice ServSafe manual so far, and there will be a class and test this week, oh joy :D.
I think I need to figure out some kind of display rack with 1 & 5 lb bags.
I would like to know what make of grinder you are using. What type of corn?
The mill is a ca 1917 Meadows with 16" stones, the red mill here in Sammie's shop. I didn't update you all, he passed the January after finishing our mill. I believe that is a Wood's mill second back on the left, another N Wilkesboro company that was bought by Meadows. The same Meadows of sawmill fame. The mill in NC is running a 30" commercial Meadows and supplies places like Mabry Mill, Neese's and the surrounding community.
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I'm grinding commodity white dent corn that I'm purchasing from Sammie's son and grandson's mill down in NC. Food safety wise it is tested and certified (I'm readin the book boss!) Hickory Cane and Hickory King are the two old time varieties. I'd like to work towards getting a local organic grower at some point. Up here white is bread corn and yellow is feed, but I grew up where everything was yellow. This is whole grain, not degermed so it must be used and restocked fresh, which sounds like a pain but we have forgotten something, or lost it, but that's why there was a mill on every creek. Nowadays we eat sawdust the bugs won't even touch. So far the best endorsement I've heard was from an old Arkansas farm girl "This is the best effing cornbread I've ever put in my mouth! :D". Off the stones and right to the kitchen it is a different meal. And her chickens appreciate all my missed efforts.
Don P, A picture of you grinding corn with that old machine will sell a lot of bags.
Then a link for a video will sell more. ;D
I was curious and mailed some a week or so ago. Where it started was with me driving down to NC to buy the corn, back up here to grind about $.25 of whole kernels and put the meal in a bag and then box to mail. The fuel outstripped the corn already. Down to the post office with 1.33 lbs... and $12.50 later it was heading down the road. I think its a hobby :D.
What we really need is to drag those old mills out of the weeds and harden our food supply. Cornmeal isn't supposed to come from Chicago. But don't get me started ;D.
The VDACS people are trying but they don't know what to make of me. "Its in a truck?". But where is your 3 basin sink? It's a mill, no water touches anything in a mill, that would make a sanitation problem. So I'm a coupla hundred pages into their text, which hasn't mentioned a mill yet and I suspect some poor soul is trying to dig up some standard for gristmills, which I'm sure exists but has slipped from use. And the daily grind has happened since man first settled down, we are funny :)
Don P's Cornmeal is good stuff.. food6
I'm having a heck of a time finding a mill to purchase before fall harvest of my Floriani flint corn. My goal is to make polenta as a house staple. I am unable to find a machine specific for this purpose of course meal production.
The mill you are using looks terrific! Also your meal sounds delicious. 8)
Don,
First thoughts from the design committee is that your display needs to be vertical and round to look like an ear of corn standing upright. I guess you need the larger shelves on the bottom for the 5 lb bags of meal with smaller closer, shelves at the top for 1 lb bags. I assume you will also want to produce and market home ground grits too. I am surprised the taste drives toward white over yellow. I much prefer the taste of yellow corn meal.
I think you need a crockpot full of grits in the office to offer every guest or customer who comes to visit. What you don't eat today you can chill and fry and sell fried grits from the leftovers.
Then you need a real catchy name for your marketing. Maybe Maizey's home ground corn and grits or such.
At what point are you gonna offer blue cornmeal?
Good looking set up.
That's good to hear MM, it goes from the mill to the freezer here and stays fresh, that is as long as any has been "out of the water". I need to experiment and see what the room temp "best by" time is. I'd have to make rounds and replace unsold stock on something shorter than that schedule. That gets into design committee stuff too :D.
I would like to grind some of each and try them fresh, side by side, blind. For cross contamination avoidance, such as a person with a wheat allergen, this mill will only see corn. I don't think different varieties would be a problem.
Under "cottage laws" I can sell face to face to individuals or at farmers markets but cannot wholesale to a store. Non refrigerated food, stuff that doesn't require time/temp control such as cornbread would be the same. It gets that "Prepared in an uninspected facility, not for resale" sticker and you're good to go for one to one sales. Dry grits no problem, cooked grits or polenta would be a problem, now you need time/temp control.
Like at the farmers market, I'll need a handwashing sink with 100+°F water, soap, towels, can, the sign. That can be a flip valve igloo over a bigger bucket, paper towels and a foot activated trash can... and "the sign".
Latino's grind wet, they are making hominy first and then grinding that. I believe that is a steel burr mill. That, food-wise, is better. It makes the niacin available to us. We are also not deficient in a modern diet. It is a completely different product though. What we get here as masa harina is the wet output of that mill, dried rather than used fresh as is traditional. I'm pointing to another niche market.
Rob, I have no idea what a new one costs, I suspect its an investment in the community, even this one will never pay for itself... but that wasn't the entire goal.
Meadows Mills, Inc. - 100 Years & Counting of Providing Top Quality Milling Equipment (https://www.meadowsmills.com/)
Thanks. I have reached out to them :)
Finishing up a Live Oak table from some really rough rotted materials. The tree meant a lot to the customer, so I put my "wizard of crap" hat on to weave some magic. Sorry about the glare... :D
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The wizard done real good on those rough wood slabs. Real good !!
I'm working on the screen door for the back of the truck. I'm no wizard or furniture guru but I was slapping together a carpenters setup for routing a few tenons.
I usually have my best dull 3/4 bit banging around in the bottom of a toolbox. I measure from the bit to the edge of the "bearing". In this case I'm using the base as my rub collar. Not particularly accurate, but it works of you don't squirm around a bunch. Add 2-5/8 to the cut line for a fence.
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Set the depth to be removed from each face.
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Slap together a jig, this is well into it, there is a finished tenoned rail behind the one in the jig that is clamped in and ready to start
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Cleaned up, the top and bottom ones "haunched"
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And I just got everybody fitted up but needed a sammich before glung it up.
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Anyway, more simple router tricks.
Grain filling a walnut island top today.
This customer wanted a big top from a small tree so I used scribed joinery from 8 different pieces to form up this top. The quality of the wood, with all of the twists and curves, would not lend itself well to a table saw. So, I laid things out and hand cut and matched the various pieces to form a single large "wannabe slab" for their kitchen island. If you are careful, and cut along the grain, the result is that it almost looks like one piece. Claro walnut, 3 inches thick.
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tpt, with that style of leg are you using any "C" channel to keep the tops flat?
I like your legs, table legs I mean. :D I'm guessing your cutting them out with a pattern on a shaper. I have a table to make soon and might make similar legs.
Yes, but with multiple patterns, referenced to each joint. That said; after rough sawing, then run through a big shaper head, the legs might be slightly different in shape/size, but perfect joints. Once the legs are put together, I re-true their squareness very carefully on a big sliding table saw. When you look at them, they are flat, true and square, but not necessarily identical. My weird way of looking at things. Most woodworking guys work from an outside reference (table top, jointer bed, etc.) and I like to reference from the inside and true by touch up later.
I guess I am bassackwards eh?
Starting a cedar bar top today. This is three pieces glued up to make it a "wanna be" slab, dimensionally parallel front to back. I just love it when people give me tight specifications on natural edge material! As if I could find a tree fits their design. I just applied a seal coat so I can bounce some colour off the top tomorrow to meet the specs. Incense cedar.
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I had some time to play with the truck screened opening.
This is the basic mockup. I'll roll up the door and stick the 2 fixed screen pane panel in place, it has a couple of tabs into the track and one in the floor I'll probably use slide bolts on the top. Then the panel with the screen door goes in and finishes sealing the opening. Hopefully 5 minutes;
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I used a few more router bits today. I needed a rabbet in the screen door panels for the screen to fit into. I used this setup to make a 3/8 x 3/8" rebate in 2 passes, one at half depth the next at full depth. It's a 1/4" shank bit and smallish router, take 2 light cuts. Then a half hour of chiseling the corners square
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/rabbetBit.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689806873)
Then I flipped the door over and put in a 1/4" radius bit, sank it until it made a little shoulder for a shadow line creating what I would call a thumbnail pattern. You're seeing the rabbet cut from the other side where the cutter was end milling, I have a little sanding to do there.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/quarter_radius.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1689807030)
Then to finish it off the outside edges of stuff like this usually has an 1/8" radius eased edge all around to keep from having sharp corners. You can barely see the end of one of the haunched rail tenons poking through the stile
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Finished up the little table I've been working on last week and took a couple pictures today.
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I wonder how one would look with three legs?
The table design is by Alexis Dolese (https://www.dolesewoodworks.com/) and was in Fine Woodworking June 2023. I built it because I thought it was cool and also would be a learning exercise.
As usual, beautiful workmanship. I like the way the seat looks like it is floating above the top of the legs.
Round 2 on this cutting board. I haven't calculated the cost of the wasted wood on this but I'm guessing in the neighborhood of 20 bucks.
I've left a lot of meat on it to have some good edges to run the router around and I may have to use some extra. We'll see how it goes. The color difference between the maple and cherry here is less than I wanted but hopefully finishing it will help bring out some nice colors and the grains.
I have about a week to complete the job. I think I can do it. It really would have saved substantial time and money had I just made wider end boards and not hogging out tons of material but I think this will look much nicer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230722_152905.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1690056622)
Clearly I don't have the tule or Larry skills but I'm pleased that I got my first two grooves cut in this cutting board. My fence, on the first pass was bumpy and it showed in the cut so I replaced a junk 2x4 with a jointed piece. It's not perfect but it's much better than it was and it's to the correct depth. It also wasn't nearly as terrifying as my previous attempt. I'll try to get the long sides done tomorrow but the fencing will be a bit more challenging to figure out. Then I can start removing the stuff in the middle.
I should probably watch infinite more videos on how people set this stuff up cleanly and easily(?). I spend significant time looking at things to make some jig that kind of works. Maybe it was dumb to leave everything rough cut? I was nervous about not having the space for the router to ride on the edges. Maybe these grooves would be more easily done on the router table? I have the piece in place then I screw a bunch of scrap to the bench to keep things from moving on me. Then using a sliding square try to make sure measurements are OK. I should have made a witness board (is that what they are called?) to make sure it was exact...
Interesting things to learn and consider and think about.
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I just finished my ladder storage brackets. I just cut 3/4 construction plywood scraps and laminated them together. I used Fastcap Powerhead screws to attach. After I got the first ladder mounted (the taller wood one), I decided to just go straight ahead and bust out one for the extension ladder to get it off the floor. They take up much less space now. rwoelk wanted me to photocopy the template and email him for a quick starting point for him. He also has a Werner extension ladder.
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Great idea. Like an overgrown French cleat!
Make them double or triple deep so you can hang multiple ladders in the same space. I'm gonna have to do that since I have at least three of each 4, 6, 7, 8, 12 and 16 foot step and extension ladders. Might have trouble finding a spot for the 40' extension...
Here's what the bracket looks like, before drilling the mounting holes.
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brad, do you ever underkill anything? :) that could have been 2 hooks with plywood backer connecting them and still been plenty strong.
Generally, I don't know how to under kill it. I don't have enough imagination. I'm afraid to under kill it. Besides, I like what looks or feels better. And this just felt like the right way to go. I should have enough grain going in multiple directions to be strong enough.😁
I wonder if you could lift a car with that? :)
Quote from: Crusarius on July 25, 2023, 09:29:39 PM
I wonder if you could lift a car with that? :)
Match box car - yes!
GAB
Quote from: Brad_bb on July 25, 2023, 09:10:25 PM
Generally, I don't know how to under kill it. I don't have enough imagination. I'm afraid to under kill it. Besides, I like what looks or feels better. And this just felt like the right way to go. I should have enough grain going in multiple directions to be strong enough.😁
I think you do know how. Overkill would have been 14 lag bolts to hold it in place 😄. Did you get a cnc router or cut them all by hand?
Toilet paper holder extender.
I've wanted to do this for some time, but procrastinated because I thought it was going to be more difficult than it actually was. I made a sliding dovetail for the first time. I started with the female part. I use a dado set to hog out a channel, then I use a dovetail router bit in my table saw mounted router. It's a 14° bit that is about 3/4" tall. I first took a little off the bottom of the channel to get it to final depth(which was about another .040 inch, using the fence. Then I started cutting into the undercut with the dovetail bit by moving my fence just a little bit. I learned that you just have to take a little at a time otherwise the bit will grab and gouge your work piece.
I first did walnut which machined nicely. Then I did one from barnwood(which is the one I decided to use). The female barnwood one was white oak, so I had to be careful taking a little away at a time. The last one I did was Osage. I thought I might need the strength of osage at the base of the undercut but it turns out that was OVERKILL. All of these woods were plenty strong.
The male barnwood piece was hard maple. All the male pieces I just cut on the table saw with my blade tilted to 14°. It was nice as I could fine tune the fit, taking away a little at a time on the male piece to achieve the sliding fit I wanted. I still need to apply finish and wax the dovetail. I think I might try Rubio monocoat for a hard wax finish. I also plan to darken the fresh cut edges on the barnwood. I'll try ammonia fuming when I do a table top in a few weeks.
VIDEO LINK AT THE END
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/IMG_3348.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1690412684)<br
Toilet Paper holder extender (https://rumble.com/v32kudi-toilet-paper-holder-extender.html)
Starting a walnut entry table today with a concept sketch and 4 pieces of walnut cut from the same crotch.
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That's putting your crotches together.
Uh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,yeah,,,,,,,, :D
I was much more successful on this round of the cutting board! It's definitely got it's flaws, some of which will still be cut out, but so far it looks pretty good! I think I'm going to route out some of the space along the edges to make for some handles. We'll see, it's got to be delivered by the end of this week. I'm looking forward to oiling it up.
I'm also learning to make pizza dough!
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I finally finished this blanket box for my daughter.
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I mentioned pizza dough... My buddy and I had a sub-par experience at a legendary local pizza joint last week which encouraged me to determine if I could make one better. I was testing a couple things. Can I make a tastier crust and can I cook and deliver it, to my family, faster than the 35 minutes it took this place (even though there was no one there). I also made the pizza sauce myself, while I was awaiting the dough to come to room temperature. I have got a little bit of bread experience but I don't recall ever making a pizza dough or sauce from scratch. My sister suggested the book "The Joy of Pizza" and it seems pretty good and tons of info.
The results of my tests are yes, I can make a tastier crust, and yes I delivered it, from dough ball to table in less than half the time the pizza joint took. I certainly need to practice more, but this turned out to be a fun and delicious experiment.
Attempt 1: The wife likes mushrooms, the kids do not. I let it cook about a minute too long, but still not too bad.
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The crust had lots of nice bubbles and a lovely crispness to it. It could have used a little butter brushed on the handle.
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Attempt 2:
This was my pizza, with pepperoni and mushrooms-
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Tom K- That box is beautiful!
Naan flatbread from the grocery store dressed with goodies from the garden works well in our BBq.
Your pie looks great!
A family heirloom for your daughter Tom. Beautiful 8)
Quote from: aigheadish on August 01, 2023, 08:45:57 AM
I mentioned pizza dough... My buddy and I had a sub-par experience at a legendary local pizza joint last week which encouraged me to determine if I could make one better. I was testing a couple things. Can I make a tastier crust and can I cook and deliver it, to my family, faster than the 35 minutes it took this place (even though there was no one there). I also made the pizza sauce myself, while I was awaiting the dough to come to room temperature. I have got a little bit of bread experience but I don't recall ever making a pizza dough or sauce from scratch. My sister suggested the book "The Joy of Pizza" and it seems pretty good and tons of info.
The results of my tests are yes, I can make a tastier crust, and yes I delivered it, from dough ball to table in less than half the time the pizza joint took. I certainly need to practice more, but this turned out to be a fun and delicious experiment.
Attempt 1: The wife likes mushrooms, the kids do not. I let it cook about a minute too long, but still not too bad.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230731_180800.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1690893272)
The crust had lots of nice bubbles and a lovely crispness to it. It could have used a little butter brushed on the handle.
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Attempt 2:
This was my pizza, with pepperoni and mushrooms-
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We bought a little pizza oven that cooks them in 4 minutes. 2 on the stone and 2 in the bottom. My wife has a decent semolina crust we use. Definitely beats the takeout garbage
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Not like a wood fired oven but quick and easy to use. Only does 12 inchers. You should start a thread in the food tab.
I spent the day twisting the 4 walnut crotches, slightly for visual interest. I am trying very hard to get grain matching everywhere, but not possible due to saw kerf ,drying imperfections, and sanding. The matches are pretty good though, nonetheless. Tomorrow, I go to glue up and this entry table is finally underway. ;D
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Rob, would it have been easier to get a grain match if you sawed veneer thickness?
Its going to work great!
Well yes, the "veneers" are 1 inch thick now and the table needs to be 1 3/4 inches thick finished. The customer wants slightly sculpted edges and I need to build as a "solid" top. More on this later. :)
Cutting board was completed and delivered last night! Woo!
It's not often that I complete projects and I could have spent a lot more time on this one. It's not perfect but my sister left for a month-long camping trip last night, so I wanted her and her husband to be able to use it. They were very pleased and it over doubled their counter space.
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Doubled? I'd say at least quintupled! Nice. Looks like it might also fit over the sink when cooking?
Clinch time this morning.
Measure once and cut three times to make up for stresses I introduced from kilning and whatever mother nature did over the decades. No room for error as I cannot replace or go back if I screw up the joints. I'm cutting 2 inches extra off of the sides to "roll over" the edges to get the thickness I need at final measurements.
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ljohnsaw, you may be right about fitting over the sink, I need to send her a text suggesting it!
TPT- one day, when I grow up, I'll understand a fraction of the magic you are doing. It won't be a large fraction, mind you, but I'm excited to see what this turns in to.
After rough sizing just a little bit bigger than final cut, I did a dry fit to split the difference between the joinery and the grain lines. Once I was happy with that, I cut the edges off and rolled them to make the table thicker. And that's about it for me today; I am out of gas!
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how will you thicken the ends? will it be end grain showing to keep expansion under control and look super?
Doc I also rolled the end grain just a hair past final width (under the lead pigs). If you notice in the pic of the rolled sides, I have a clamp squeezing the end grain to one of the rolled sides that is glued down . The other side is still free and will get squeezed later for hopefully a zero glue line. Also the sides are hanging over the top by a fraction of an inch so as to insure a tight seam at final dimensioning. Basically I keep coming in on the final dimension a little at a time.
got it thanks. I did not see the wood under the weights. It must match pretty well.
A little custom walnut 17.5k winch enclose with premium clear sealant on after the deck on the neck got welded on and painted. One more walnut cover for the back that's next. Anybody 👀 for some handy LED work lights with switch on them
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that go 360 on the mount and head swivel is the Optronics work light
101 degrees outside but 77 degrees in the shop with a great sound system. Where would you be?
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A little walnut coffee table today. I played with the finishes to get the top as light color wise as possible.
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Interesting. Is it a customer choice to keep it light? Is there a reason for this? How did you do it? any wood bleach as an example? Why do you not answer my questions before I ask them? :) :) :)
Well obviously, time to wax my crystal ball. ::)
I'm using Enduro post catalyzed water borne poly that leaves wood looking "washed out" and it is English walnut to start with so very "white " looking. When building up coats, crystal clear should be used before the final topcoat and in this case, I built up the coatings using matte, which also whitens things up. A little trick not in the books. I'm building several walnut pieces for this customer, and she wants them all to look "slightly" different. I spent weeks working with different bleaches and chemical treatments, pigments, dyes, etc. to get the walnuts to look different and please her. Nothing worked very well except for plane old water borne topcoat. In fact, some of the chemicals/bleaches turned walnut green, orange, and beyond horrible.
This particular topcoat has some interesting characteristics; pros and cons and is pretty inexpensive compared to the other finishes I use such as Awlgrip. Most appealing to me is that this finish has a UV resistant component, is buffable and sticks to epoxy, is water borne, easy clean up and seems to be very hard when cured. It has its place. Later today we're going back to Awlgrip on another project.
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Thank you!
Rollin out at 0 dark thirty, the fair starts tomorrow, so we're makin muffins, corn muffins, 50 at a whack. It's gonna be toasty by bedtime :D. I'm parked beside the Frosty Monkey, the ice cream trailer. Might go in the red but survivability just went way up ;D.
I finally finished up that paddle I've been working on. I used Total Boat marine varnish. Boy is that some shiny stuff. Should have bought satin, but I think it's gonna protect the paddle very well with the 3 coats I put on it.
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Too nice to use!
almost a herringbone pattern in the handle. very nice!
Well done!
It should do a fine job while being used to push off rocks when the canoe is stuck. :D
The nice part about sawmilling and woodworking... You can always refinish it or make another one!
Thanks guys. I'm not too worried about damage to it. The one I patterned it after is 25 years old with a lot of use and still looks very nice. I sawed the pieces for the shaft out of one piece of cypress and then reversed ends to add strength. I hadn't considered what kind of pattern it would create. Just a happy accident.
My buddy came over yesterday and despite my golf cart troubles we made my backhoe work again.
I don't have any experience removing or reinstalling hydraulic cylinders but the dude I paid too much money too to reseal the cylinders ghosted me after dropping them off, so the time was right for them to be put back on the machine. We spent a few hours doing it but it's good to go now. Woop!
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f
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I was looking for a simple way to display some Euro mounts on a table. I'm sure others have come up with better ways, but I took a little ash I had milled last winter and made these 2 stands. They aren't fancy but they'll do the job.
101 degrees outside, 78 degrees in the shop, where would you spend the day?
My kitchen drawers have the usual mish mash of store bought so called organizers. I decided to make one that fits the drawer properly with thought out placement of kitchen utensils.
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Pretty simple and the wide belt sander I bought a couple of years ago is a huge time saver.
I have one or two more drawers that could stand some attention but I'll see how I like this one first.
With the forecast highs this coming week I'll be in the shop most every day.
Just to keep you in the cool, why is an organizer inside the drawer and not part of the drawer ;D.
There is a drop front desk organizer on the workbench asking me that question.
A few projects (https://woodchuckcanuck.com/2023/08/17/the-positive-and-negative-of-map-making/) from the scrap wood pile.
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Not something I made, but my brother is making this gaming table, mostly for playing dungeons and dragons. The pictures are of the table top and the cover for the table (the cover has a 20 sided die on it).
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That tabletop is flat? does the entire top get removed to play? That is a beautiful table
Yes, the top gets removed to play. The flat top (he made it look 3d) allows it to be used as a normal table when not using it for gaming. I've got a poker table that I did something similar with.
The actual game portion of the table has little boxes for folks to roll their dice in and wireless cell phone chargers built in and some other things
Turns out I was completely wrong...the D20 was actually an insert that goes in the center of the table. It has two metal handles to use to lift it. Underneath is a tv they use for viewing their maps and such.
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My DIL asked if I could make a bow holder for my granddaughter, so I jumped at the chance and threw something together quick. The pictures aren't the best, I'll have to get some better ones next time we're over there.
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My mind is broken.
I read your post as an arrow holder, as in bow and arrow, a quiver.
I looked at the first picture and couldn't figure out how that would hold arrows.
So I go back and reread. Oh, bows. Then thinking how is this going to support a bow? Looks like it could hold a lot of bows. How many bows does this girl have? Must be quite the archer!
Then I look at the last pictures. DOOH! 😜
Very nice!
Quote from: ljohnsaw on August 31, 2023, 11:15:03 AM
My mind is broken.
I read your post as an arrow holder, as in bow and arrow, a quiver.
.......
This is EXACTLY what went through my head! :D :D :D ;D
I started work on a table for the firehouse today. It will be 42" x 84" with decals on it and resin poured on top. I made one 3 years ago and now its time for another. I bought a 4x8 sheet of walnut plywood this morning. It was $190 for the sheet. I think the price of this table will be higher. Last time I set up a pop up tent in the garage to serve as my resin pouring booth. This time I realized I can use my kiln shed which is not drying anything right now. It will be perfect, as there are no bugs in there to get into the resin. Plus my truck can stay parked in the garage.
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All Walnut and stainless hardware. Made a cover with top rubber gasket for the 17.5k winch. Tapped holes for stainless bolts to stay in and wing nuts to hold. When in use one side can hold the cover about vertical and be completely open and left that way until covered. A stake pocket box rack to hold anything and D rings to the inside for additional hold down or outside. The rear and front of the box is two drop in pieces With the additional set of holders in front to hold rear pieces when it needs to be open in back. Handy and on and off easy. High dollar sealer stain wood. Natural clear on rack system and walnut on oak deck
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Hmm, I hadn't thought of using walnut for sides for my flatbed, but I guess when you're a "walnut beast".
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20230905 Quintessential Nova Scotia - YouTube (https://youtube.com/shorts/fvAfOvWQpI0?feature=share)
The last few months I've been making all kinds of treenware (wood kitchen utensils). Something fasnates me about going to the woods and bringing home a chunk of wood that becomes a useful item. I needed a hook knife sometimes called a spoon knife to carve the spoon recess. So....I made one.
Starts with a piece of scrap O-1 tool steel.
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Heat it red hot and forge it flat.
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Shape and grind to a radius that I think will be most useful.
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Pop it in the heat treating oven and bring it up to 1460 degrees for 15 minutes. Clench in real quenching oil at 130 degrees, not used motor oil we often hear about.
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Put in toaster oven for two hours at 380 degrees to temper. Goal is a very hard edge that won't break.
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Turn a walnut handle out of scrap. I turned the handle on 3 non-parallel axis to get a oval shape that fits my hand. Sharpen shaving sharp....still needs a bit of work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_2824.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694118025)
While spend $50 for a knife when I can spend all day in the shop making one. :D
Nice job Larry! I have been looking for a couple of scoop knives to do similar work in some rustic stuff. How did you shat the tang to keep it from rotating in the handle, which is really critical on these?
I assume you used that good old sulfur oil that smells SO sweet when you plunge a red hot piece in it? ;D I miss that smell but still have a little bit of that oil in the shop. Getting harder to find.
For O1, when I do those I just reheat it with a torch until it is straw colored and that draws it back pretty well.
I do like the way to crested the flute so you can sharpen both sides. You do very nice work no matter what you take on.
Larry
Looks like a fun project. Is it a righty or lefty, or both?
OGH, to keep the blade shaft from rotating I ground a few divots in the side and bedded it in epoxy.
I've been using quench oil from McMaster Carr, its sulfur free so no smell and does a good job. Biggest benefit is I can buy it by the gallon. Some of that other stuff has to be bought by the barrel.
BT, I sharpened both sides, mainly because I couldn't decide if I wanted a righty or lefty. Carving a spoon recess is a brand new exercise for me and I really don't know what I'm doing.
Yesterday I shipped the quad matched walnut tabletop.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/miller_table_9_7_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694308341)
Tony has started a segmented oak stump top and is making good progress.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/alyssa_table_9_9_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694308449)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/alyssa_table_9_7_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694308502)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Doverspike_Sept0923.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694308537)
Next up a big island top
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/BTulloh_090623.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694308645)
Wow !
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on August 31, 2023, 11:17:58 AM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on August 31, 2023, 11:15:03 AM
My mind is broken.
I read your post as an arrow holder, as in bow and arrow, a quiver.
.......
This is EXACTLY what went through my head! :D :D :D ;D
Well I'm glad I can keep you guys on your toes. Good thing she already had some "bows" on it in the last picture. :)
Larry, great job on the scoop. What kind of forge are you using?
Tom, I use a little two burner shop made knife forge. Made the side arm burners based on a Larry Zoelier design. Its on loan right now, so for this little project I just used my oxy/ace rig.
The heat treating oven is a older Evenheat with I guess PLC control. It works great.
Thanks Larry. I'm running a similar sized home made forge (#20 propane tank) with a home made naturally aspired ribbon burner. I've also got a pair of coal forges I haven't used yet.
The quenching & heat treating of blades has always held me back. I just don't fully understand the process yet and haven't had time to experiment.
Okay, you guys talking about forges and such forced me to go back to my assignment in Guinea in west Africa and dig out a few pictures of a forge set up I saw there. The man was making aluminum pots like old fashioned washpots. Apparently he would sand cast the 2 halves then weld them together then weld 3 legs on to them. I remember the bellows was made from an old bicycle and had a denim jeans leg as a tube to direct the forge itself. I apologize for the quality of the photos but the set up was pretty amazing to me in its simplicity.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1175.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694524509)
Finished pot for sale which attracted me then the owner invited me into the hut where the forge was set up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1176.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694524587)
Rough overview of the set up. Note the safety equipment and PPE worn.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1177.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694524682)
Tools and form work to mix up mud used in the process. I don't know if this was for the sand casting or other purposes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1178.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694524766)
Apparently the box on the right is the forge itself. Not sure about the other items.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1179.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694524848)
Two sides of a pot finished and ready to weld together,
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1180.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694524908)
The forge and more tools used in the process. The log standing upright on the right is likely the workers station where he sits while working.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1181.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694525018)
I guess he covered the forge here to hold the heat or such.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1182.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694525089)
A wider view. The bike frame and wheel by his R foot is the bellows. He'd turn the wheel which was hooked to a blower to add air to increase the temperature of the fire in the forge.
I loved my time in Guinea and the people were very friendly and open when you showed some interest and respect for their craftsmanship and abilities even though the the conditions were very primitive by our standards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1158.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694525346)
The people loved to be in the photos.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38064/DSCF1152.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1694525434)
This big tree was just outside our camp and was a local hangout.
The pictures were from 11-10-2010 BTW.
Too cool! Thanks WV for sharing that, it's very interesting to see what you can do with little. Also interesting that it looks like the guys still have toes! Those pots look pretty good too!
Well no finished photos, not even close yet, but this is new for me so...
I got a request for a sign mount, it's a 2' round sheet metal sign and they asked for a round frame. To me that means turning, and I don't 'do' turning. :D I went back and suggested a rough wood cross type thing with a weathered barn wood look and 4 posts sticking up and notched so that the edges of the disc would be captured. They liked that, then asked if it could be backlit. Yeah sure OK, we'll figure that out later. :D I told them I needed to do some messing around to get the finish right.
So now I am trying to figure out how to make new wood look like weathered grey barnwood. :D
I took a wire wheel to some pine and that sort of worked. (Felt weird to plane the board then hit it with a wire wheel, but oh well.)
I then got some paints from a hobby shop and mixed white and black to make grey, then thinned it with water and dabbed and rubbed it in. It doesn't look too bad so far.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230914_101723913.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694702991)
I put some smears of black on it and smeared those out for some 'effect' (whatever that is). The physical texture is hard to show in a photo. I did catch it in the right light coming down the stairs and I think this catches it better.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230914_101911724.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694702989)
I think it will work out ok. This is really Tule Peak black magic stuff, but I am doing what I can with it and my limited abilities. The edges are tricky and I will have to practice some more on that part. This will have to be sealed in some way, which is another step to test. Right now I am waiting for this to dry before I try something else.
---------------------------
In older news I have been working on display and transport accessories for doing shows, I have another one next week:
A crate for holding my beer caddies, brochure stands, and device stands.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230913_163340202.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694647632)
A leaning rack for the coat racks I am trying to sell.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230913_165347788.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694648599)
More beer caddys:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230530_171800607_HDR~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694562408)
I also made an umbrella type stand for my firewood slings, but neglected to get a photo of that.
I'm staying busy anyway. ;D
you watch and someone will want to buy the big crate made to carry all the other stuff. :) I know some use flame to raise grain. I have used coffee stain and steel wool soaked in vinegar and brushed on. I think it may soak in and not look as much like paint. I remember. @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) showing his arsenal of tools used to realistically distress wood to make it look old. Around here, I could (and have) got trailer loads of old barn wood. Glad you got some income producing, hopefully short turn around projects. I think Howard of the elusive but famous project committee has said, he gets more referrals from these events than direct sales. You could try things, and maybe make a series of finishes to choose from and save these examples to take along or have in the shop for future clients to peruse.
Quote from: doc henderson on September 14, 2023, 04:06:55 PM
I have used coffee stain and steel wool soaked in vinegar and brushed on. I think it may soak in and not look as much like paint. I remember. @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) showing his arsenal of tools used to realistically distress wood to make it look old.
A few months ago I did a little commission job that need a aged look. I added some steel wool to a quart of vinegar and let it set for a few days. Wiped it on red oak but the color was not dark enough so I had to wipe on strong tea (to add tannin for the chemical reaction) to get the color dark enough. It was just a medium light gray.
Fast forward. We are working on a large table that is a weathered root stump with a glass top. This thing sets on a red oak base out of kiln dry lumber that has to match the color of the weathered stump. So I pull out the left over vinegar mix from the last project....Wow, never would have believed how dark it left our little red oak test piece. Back to the drawing board as it needs to be lighter this time.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_2858.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1694743071)
Soft pad with 220 grit and then lightly go over it with a Nylox wheel to get near your desired color. Seal and then color tone further in top coats with maybe a little spot glazing here and there. Spot glaze might be a little different shade of your background color. Looking good 8)
Not sure about how to do the weathered look but if you are looking for a rough sawn look I had good luck using a chain saw, I used the chain on top of the bar and sweep the saw from right to left (starter cover up) so it does not dig in. This is using the side of the chain to rough the board and pulling the chain away from top of the bar so it is important to have the chain properly tensioned. It works great and is fast, the part that takes the longest is fastening the board down so it does not take off on you, I used tie downs for just making a few but would make something faster if doing a bunch. After the saw I gave them a quick rub with 60 grit sand paper with a random orbital sander to git rid of any potential splinters. Added bonus is with the grain opened up and rough surface it holds exterior stain well.
Proof coat on the oak burl tabletop. 63 X 48 inches X 1.75 inches thick. Getting closer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/doverspike_live_oak_top_9_23_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1695506751)
WOW!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSC_7826.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1695783556)
Wanted something to hold my phone up to check work I do on the PC. I think a useful item made from scrap that would go in the burn box.
I made the angle slot using my Bridgeport milling machine. Since the slot is phone/case specific its not really a saleable item plus it takes too long to make one. Working on a little different idea that will fit most phones and can be made lots faster using a different process.
Saw these..
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/phone_easel.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1695787008)
Like yours better.
I make those from the drops off of live edge stuff. I had a box of those pieces collecting dust and my wife insisted that I make something to sell for cheap at shows and she also asked me to make her one of these. Well, I made her one, then one for my desk, use it everyday, then I made a bigger one that holds up my flat screen monitor. I finally took the box of blocks and put random sized slots in them on the table saw (multiple passes at 5° angle on the blade. I put finishes on them whenever I happen to be finishing a real piece, again, random finishes. Some tung oil rubbed, some poly, whatever. I sell a few at every show, started out with about 20 in the box and only have 5 left. The next batch I will do with a dado blade to save time, but I am out of drop and am now searching for pieces to cut up. I also have gotten requests to make these for record albums from a music store owner, actually two. Still working on that one, need wood.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/DSCF3770.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1581982332)
The issue with these is that it seems like every device is a different thickness. SO I randomize them but put bigger slots on the deeper blocks. Also, the slot has to be deep enough to keep the device from flipping over backwards. I ignore the charging cable issue. Just turn the device sideways. ;D
Obviously mine are cruder than yours, but I only charge 5 bucks a piece. Next batch the price goes up a bit. I also made some for my business cards that I scatter around the booth. Small blocks obviously and have sold a couple of those when other vendors commented on them. Last show I had some crate pieces laying around and I made a couple of card holders in a tiny crate style that would hold about 50 cards. I was tired of digging out and replacing the smaller ones all day. Well another vendor (a wood turner) saw them and talked me into selling him one for the same reason I made them. Those were so simple I never even shot a photo of them.
What you got there Larry is very nice and I would think it would sell for 20 bucks or so, but a lot more work than the ones I make of course. As you noted, fitting for a device is on a case by case basis, which is why I take the easy way out, go random, and tell folks to try them on their devices before they buy them. It's just a cheap little thing in the booth to engage folks and get them talking. They get a kick out of it when I can pick one up and match it to a piece of furniture in the booth where I cut it off. I have had several women buy them for their tablets to use in the kitchen when they are cooking and following recipes.
I made something slightly similar for my wife's farmers market booth. Scraps of 2x4 with an angled slot, in her case they hold small pieces of 1/4" ply painted with chalkboard paint. She can write a label and price and put it beside a tray of whatever or beside an item for sale.
Most of what I've done is service work, construction, but it gets into repairs and millwork at times. Raining again so I'll glue this up and call in for glass today. Just a simple barn window.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/barn_wdw.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1695905795)
The tools and hose end to the right.. someone decided to chew on my air hose yesterday. I always wanted a short one for the shop ::) it was fun watching his reaction to the sudden hissing snake :D.
Since we were sharing phone holders...no phone in it, cause I needed to take the picture. Made them out of scrap 4x4s, and the first two were made by accident when I was trying to cut a 4x4 in half with a 45 degree angle....blade wouldn't reach all the way through, so was going to make two cuts. Dropped the piece of wood on the floor after the first cut and it broke evenly where the cut stopped...it made a perfect phone holder. Now we use them to hold the phones horizontal for watching shows and such.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64542/20230929_202534.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696033403)
Hey Burdman, that's pretty slick. I may steal it or modify it, then steal it. :D At 45° does your phone tend to want to flip over the back? Mine generally hold the phone or device at between 0 and 15°. I have been thinking on ideas on how to make one where it's easy to keep it in the stand with the charging cable attached. I am always hearing stories about phones on charge that catch fire from the batteries overheating. So I charge mine in a stand (so it's not laying flat on papers or something and lay it on the long edge to get the cable in it.
I do like this idea you have though.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/61033/IMG_20230929_203937897_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696034324)
Definitely some neat ideas here. This is mine, made from thin left over scraps. Make parts from longer pieces and cut to length and glue together. Holds phone and tablet at the same time.
Nicely done Troy. I think my mental image of you from here on is going to be "Oh yeah, he's the over achiever". :D :D
That looks way to nice for any of my stuff. ;D
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on September 29, 2023, 08:40:40 PM
Hey Burdman, that's pretty slick. I may steal it or modify it, then steal it. :D At 45° does your phone tend to want to flip over the back? Mine generally hold the phone or device at between 0 and 15°. I have been thinking on ideas on how to make one where it's easy to keep it in the stand with the charging cable attached. I am always hearing stories about phones on charge that catch fire from the batteries overheating. So I charge mine in a stand (so it's not laying flat on papers or something and lay it on the long edge to get the cable in it.
I do like this idea you have though.
No problems with it flipping over, but again, this is for holding the phone horizontal (landscape, not portrait). If I put the phone in vertical it may want to flip. I liked mine just because it is super quick and easy to make. One or two cuts, a little chisel work, and then sand and finish and done. (We made 6 of them one night in about 10 minutes)
Small board as a gift for my gf's parents.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/40778/038DCDDE-22C6-4AEE-BF6D-DB296DA6EBB6.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1696249258)
Beautiful mapleack!
I'm making a bridge over my dry creek. I've rebuilt this bridge a couple times now and this time I put two healthy 2' in diameter culvert pipes in the ground. The creek is usually fairly dry but we do get the occasional storm that will flood a good deal of the back yard and wash the bridge to the back couple acres out. I'd previously had three 12" or so pipes that got clogged up and were too short, so that allowed dirt to roll off the sides making it scary for the bee guy to drive his truck across and terrifying for me to drive the backhoe across. I've had these pipes for more than a year and was hoping to have my rock screener done, so I could sift all the dirt from the previous bridge build and harvest some rocks from it, but I forgot about the screener.
I dug a hole tossed the pipes in and got them squared away pretty well, then dumped a bunch of dirt and rocks and junk back on top. They look shallower than they really are and I've piled dirt on top of them quite a bit. I took the backhoe over (around 14000 lbs.!) for the first time in probably over a year yesterday and we didn't see any movement, other than dirt compacting a bit. Feels good. There'll be some more cleanup as time goes on, and I'll level things out better and extend the bridge entry and exit a bit, and maybe put more dirt on top. I also cleared out some of the brush, over to that tree, on the right side to widen the path a bit, as the wife has a garden on the left side (behind the bucket), though it's a bit overgrown.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20230930_165724.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696249916)
what are the wood species Mapleack?
walnut, curly maple and purple heart?
Quote from: doc henderson on October 02, 2023, 10:28:59 AM
what are the wood species Mapleack?
walnut, curly maple and purple heart?
Doc, exactly right.
I've spent the last couple of weeks grinding out stair treads for a tower in one of the local wineries. In addition to the treads, risers, landing t&g material, landing leaders, base and trim are part of the package. The treads are gunstock walnut, with a 2" thick bullnose, finished in a custom colour hard wax oil. The landing material is 550 sq. ft. with 50 treads and risers. I'll be taking this weekend off!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Renzoni_treads_1_Oct0523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696546082)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Renzoni_treads_2_Oct0523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696546113)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Renzoni_treads_3_Oct0523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696546147)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Renzoni_treads_4_Oct0523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696546189)
@tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) What are you calling Gunstock Walnut? Can you explain what that is? I'm thinking it's from the root feet of the stump?
looks like a lot of character.
It is just a higher grade of English Walnut. Older, more figure, usually larger logs, and way more expensive.
When a block of walnut trees in the central valley comes up for sale the brokers go in and select the premium burl trees first for the automotive guys, then the gunstock guys take the best of what is left for their high-end use. What is left over is what I normally purchase as lower grade English, usually with the graft intact. Roughly this is how it goes out here.
Loads of walnut logs run from 15 cents a pound to over a dollar a pound for a 40–50 thousand-pound load.
Good English logs have tremendous figure throughout the heartwood and when cut correctly yield all the flames, marble cake etc, that is so pleasing to the eye, whereas lower grade English has a lot of sapwood and just a "Walnut" look inside.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/english_10_6_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696599930)
This little 4 foot stack of ugly boards is what is left of a mid priced gunstock truckload that I made the treads and flooring from from. A lot of work and laminating but I can't afford to waste any of it. A shot of the winery main floor done in lower grade English I did for the same place.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/renzoni_floor_1_6_11_14~5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696600429)
Very impressive! Very beautiful work!!
No wonder good wine is so expensive! I love the floor.
It looks like in one picture the flooring is end matched with biscuits but its hard for me to see. Do they align good?
A buddy runs a non-profit in the memory of his son who sadly took his own life several years ago. He asked me if I could make a few items for a silent auction at a trivia night they are holding. Of course I said yes. I made two charcuterie boards with walnut. I lasered his logo onto the boards. One of the boards I made handles with some pieces of hockey stick handle. Jake was a big hockey fan. I've had this piece of glass for years waiting for a project so I made a little end table and Cindy made some decals to put on the underside of the glass. Hopefully these items raise a few bucks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/379639666_1330362507854643_4071812084723230854_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696981570)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/382282529_697886735209566_3298522161204015340_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696981595)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/379660056_1082397683138364_1925375105108273457_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696981612)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/379639585_279448821689536_5868868578880023502_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1696981629)
Quote from: Larry on October 06, 2023, 09:35:50 PM
No wonder good wine is so expensive! I love the floor.
It looks like in one picture the flooring is end matched with biscuits but its hard for me to see. Do they align good?
Here is some of the same walnut end matched for grain and color using the biscuits. A curved wall 197 X 37 feet high. NNRH wall video May1821 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKIUb-GuGNQ)
Can you educate me a little bit about end matching, or is it literally as it sounds. That is you pick out pieces that look like a pretty good match at the ends and butt them up using a biscuit like a spline?
Brad, it is exactly that. The designers looked at and certified each and every joint on that wall at my place before I was allowed to pack and ship.
On another project today, a proof of concept for oak building blocks that will be used in a 10 foot tall tower. About 38 inches wide and 4 inches thick. Black and white oak layers.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Cookie_concept_1_Oct1323~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1697221606)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Cookie_concept_2_Oct1323.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1697221632)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Cookie_concept_3_Oct1323.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1697221669)
Well I finished a little commission job today, at least I think I did. ;D That is, I did what was requested, but now I think more needs doing.
The client had a 2' diameter x 1/8' thick steel laser cut sign that needed a mount. I came up with a concept and they signed off, just before I started they said "OH, and it needs backlighting". Okayyyyy. >:(
But I stuck with my concept of a barnboard finish 'cross' with standoff posts for the sign to nest in. Then I contact cemented some parchment paper on the back of the plate for a diffuser and added some 'fairy lights' as the client calls them. This was the result.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231019_111426975.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1697751944)
The actual support looks like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231011_150304544~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1697751947)
The finish is a grey wash with some black accents sealed with polycrylic (water based). In the photo's it looks black, but it is not. For comparison the wall it is hanging on is actually white, but looks grey.
So it's done, but now looking at it I realize either the client should have put a coat of paint on the steel, or asked me to do it. I can already sense some fine rust coming up on it. In order to paint it now, I will have to rip the paper off the back and do that all over again when the paint dried, plus I have to prep the steel.
I'll leave that up to the client.
That looks great. I really like the variegated lighting effect. I wonder how it would look if one painted a piece of plexiglass different colors.
I've been doing it a little different on the signs I've made. I make a aluminum backing plate that I paint gloss white. When the paint gets tacky I sprinkle metal glitter on. Than I mount the aluminum plate about a inch behind the black plate. During the day the glitter picks up sunlight and makes the cutout letters sparkle. Results depend on the right sunlight and vary from poor to excellent. If a small light is used at night it looks ok but not as good as your sign.
First coat of oil on some "anthropomorphic" legs that I'll use on a live edge trestle table.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3128.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1698104765)
I think "Mr. Big Words" would approve and find amusement in my choice of words. I miss and think of him often.
Geez you do nice work Larry, and what kind of wood is that? You make that stuff look easy and I suffer through everything. I am working on a simple 3 shelf custom shelf in Cherry and it is taking me a lot longer than I think it should. I had a sketch the client approved and I hug it on a shelf in the middle of the work are, spent all day yesterday cutting the sides and shelves, then doing biscuits and the glue ups, today I finished those and re-planed them and only then did I look at the sketch and realized the unit was supposed to finish out at 16" wide. I had cut it to be 12" wide. taz-smiley
So the shelves are now going to be breadboard shelves. I hope that works out. ;D We'll see tomorrow.
Anyway, it frustrates me that I can't seem to do this stuff as easy as so many others do it. I don't mind putting in the extra time, but geez it takes a lot for me to get things right. You make it look easy. I stared at your photo there for 15 minutes wondering how you put the mortise cuts in those diagonals and can't even figure that out. You didn't use a router did you? That would be a mighty long bit.
Anyway (don't take this the wrong way), man you got nice legs. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3005.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1698159365)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3076.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1698159365)
I feel a little out on the limb with this one. I did use epoxy to insure there were no gaps anyplace in the joints. I tested with my full body weight best I could and it seems strong. Going forward I'm thinking about making one big tenon or spline out of baltic birch.
The top will be a bit unusual also so the table will be a prototype for both design and construction.
Almost forgot, the wood is home grown walnut that I processed.
Larry, Very nice work!
Do any of you use Sketch Up or some program to model your builds? I have some custom night stands and cabinets coming up and thinking about getting Sketch Up.
I bought my sawmill to offset lumber costs for building our house and cabinets etc. Well this has snowballed into a kiln, and a lot of shop equipment.
Now I have less time in the woodshed due to having to log, mill, kiln, plane my wood.... but I am starting to get a supply of ready to go Ash, Poplar, White Pine.
Plan is to get into the woodshop this winter and wondering if Sketch Up could be a useful tool.
I find hand sketches work just fine for me. I did design work on CAD systems for decades and had enough of that, BUT if you are making complicated stuff like drawers and such, a CAD system might help for clearances and such and breaking down individual parts drawings. I am not in a hurry when I build now and do a lot of thinking, but it's usually not quite enough. :D
Some customer supplied pics of a Live Oak table and benches I built for them. The oak tree fell on their dad's ranch here in Ca.,years ago and he passed on shortly afterward. It was the wish of his daughter that something be done with the old oak tree to honor her dad , so I built and shipped this to her in Arkansas. M&T construction with Awlcraft finish.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Ali_Durkson_1_10_22_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1698239304)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Ali_Durkson_2_10_22_23~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1698239360)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Ali_Durkson_3_10_22_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1698239380)
Beautiful table!
But it definitely accentuated the contemporary homeliness of their light fixture! :D :D :D
To each, his own, I guess!
Beautiful table. I really like the look of they legs. Nice work, as always.
The flooring in the first two pics made me do a double take. Looks exactly like flooring in my new place.
I'm curious to see what you're going to do with the two live oak slabs in a pic you posted a few weeks ago. Gnarly live oak makes some interesting pieces when you do your WOC magic.
Thanks for keeping me wowed with pictures of your work. Always an inspiration!
I will post updates on the two gnarly live oak slabs. Today I'm drift pinning hardware out of a sailboat keel to clean up the lumber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/DSCN2289.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1698247732)
Quote from: Broncman on October 25, 2023, 08:16:05 AM
Do any of you use Sketch Up or some program to model your builds? I have some custom night stands and cabinets coming up and thinking about getting Sketch Up.
I've been using SketchUp since the first day it came out. Presently running the free 2017 SketchUp. I took one or two years of mechanical drafting in high school some 60 years ago and have used those skills in my working career. I would hate to give up either one.
SketchUp had a steep learning curve for me. While learning it I designed and built first my shop than later my house. Worked great. I've found if I don't use it, I forget some of the features, but it usually comes back quick. You might be able to find someplace to download the last free SketchUp circa 2017. If not you will have to buy it.
Mechanical drafting also has a downside. I have a large drafting table with the nice green vinyl cover along with a high quality drafting machine. Takes space, I have a spare bedroom and park it right in front of a large window.
Something like kitchen cabinets I would most definitely use SketchUp or some kind of cad program even if I had to buy it. I'll also use it with smaller precision projects at times. Cad will find your measurement errors and you can also use it to generate cut sheets. It is a dollar and time saver. You can rotate the project to examine from all angles. Easy to download a good looking jpeg with color and woodgrain for the boss.
I usually design furniture with a rough sketch or maybe draw something on the drafting table. With some projects I'll make a full size drawing and hang it in the shop where I can look at it for a few days. I'll make changes and note them on the drawing. Something like chairs and stools I might even make a mock up out of junk to get a better feel. I like looking at a nice drawing a lot more than something on a PC screen.
Just my thoughts and I know my decision is not for everyone.
After weeks and weeks of crushing, pinning, aligning, gluing and re-aligning, I am finally ready to cut along a prominent grain line to form up a large coastal live oak island top. Tricky business making the cut and trying to take out kerf flaws to tighten up the joint. Closer, closer, closer and as close as I can get it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/live_oak_top4_11_16_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700182321)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/live_oak_top3_11_16_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700182358)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/live_oak_top1_11_16_23.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700182401)
Wow, that's going to look amazing.
I tried to push the like button about twenty times but only added one like. That's a good look for sure. Somebody's gonna get a nice top. Looking forward to seeing the next steps. Great work as always!
Love the pictures. Very nice job so far! Look forward to more pictures and progress.
I've been doing some work on an old cabinet that belongs to a friend of mine. It was at his family's farm on the front porch of their 1800's log home. It has been sitting out there for a long time. He decided he wanted to have it repaired and made usable inside the house. I would not call it a restoration, but a practical repair to make it usable. I had to replace the back panels of the top and bottom as well as the side panel of the bottom. I had to make 3 new doors. Originally it had a roll up door on the top. It was beyond repair so I eliminated it and made 2 swinging doors to replace it. I used all new 3/8" overlay hinges and new knobs. I will hit it with some Kilz primer before I return it to them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/370111100_311725451745284_8263585420707323295_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700277050)
Looks like an old Hoosier, some of them were really nicely fitted out.
Some days I feel old, but...
Got a note from big Sis this morning, Dad is 89 but still takes care of the old folks and projects in the retirement community:
At 9:30am, as Rob and I proceeded to the entrance gate, we saw Dad speeding by on his bike. Dad and the woodworking team are busily working on Nutcracker decorations for the Big House.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/DadShop.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700334040)
Yes, a hoosier.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10436/DSC00776.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1192060203)
This one was in a pile when we saw it.
Someone restored it for us. We did not say we would take it until we saw it done.
As he said, If you don't want it, someone else will.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/larry-copas-walnut-live-edge-table-20231119.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700532750)
Oiling up a new live edge walnut table. Two book matched walnut slabs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/larry-copas-walnut-live-edge-table-20231119_28229.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700532750)
Split the pith perfect which provided the opportunity to add a couple of bowtie's for interest. Finish is complete in this picture and the sheen I'm looking for from a oil.
Such an easy oiling trick Larry, with the ROS, and of course I would've never thought of it. Also, the table is beautiful!
Larry - What type of oil finish did you use on this?
Tom, I used Livos Countertop Oil (https://www.livosusa.com/collections/interior-wood-finishes/products/wood-countertop-oil) for the third coat on my table. The first two coats were Livos Oil Sealer. First coat goes on and sets for a few minutes than is wiped off. After that I wipe it on and rub it in with a Scotchbite white pad on a ROS than wipe with a old tee shirt.
For my part, this cabinet is done. It was falling apart when I got it. It needed new back panels for bottom and top. One new side panel on the bottom. It needed 3 new doors made and one door dismantled and re-glued. It needed repair to 2 drawers and one new drawer made with the old drawer front. It needed all new structure for the drawers to slide on. It needed a new bottom panel in the base. It needed all new handles and hinges on drawers and doors. I sprayed some Kilz primer in the upper case to cover up the stains from all the years of sitting on the front porch. I have 17 hours in it and about $100 of parts and pieces. I think it will last a long time now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/370212120_1039948053720174_5559742852031098504_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701041988)
Cabinet came out nice Bill. Repair work can really be time consuming trying to make it all match up. Every time I repair something old I seem to have to create some new skills whether I like it or not. ;D But I'm not a wood worker.
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It's been a while since I put anything here because I see what the other guys are doing and frankly, I am just making 'junk' right now.
I finished that commissioned cabinet a couple of weeks ago.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231113_112324191.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1699924643)
Waiting for the client to come get it.
I also made some more device stands for my show stock.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231114_152654223_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1700184394)
I think I would up with about 45 of them and I have upped the price a buck or two. ;D
I got a stool base from a cousin about a year ago and they asked me to 'see what I could come up with, so I got that finished and will deliver it on our next visit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231122_104016531.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701045202)
It's an old Ice Cream Parlor stool.
I also finished off this Red Oak cookie mirror thingy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231121_112007160.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701045365)
In past shows I have had a couple of record shop owners ask me if I would make those device stands to hold and display LP's. One is a local fella I know. Nobody has given me any specifics about sizes or anything, so I made a few prototypes that hold double fold albums.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231125_124634417.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701045463)
Bonus point to anyone who can list at least 3 reasons that particular album is significant and a treasured part of my collection.
Lastly I had a request from my daughter for a 'little Boy's first tool box' based on my 6 pack carriers. So I made two today, one for her and one for showing or using to pack stuff to shows. Poplar ends, pine sides and bottom, cherry handle. She said, 'make it rough, the kid will beat it up.' I was a little boy once too, a very long time ago in a prior century, so I left it plain and he can 'adorn it' as he likes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231126_130211571.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701045159)
Anyway, I am making stuff, just not much good stuff.
Nonsense, Tom. You're making cool stuff. The stool is pretty. I like the shapes and colors.
Sean just said the mirror looks like an avacado. That is a neat piece.
On the 3 guesses,
Someone you set up for.
Went to school with.
That boy's toolbox will be a treasure when he's your age...
Quote from: PC-Urban-Sawyer on November 27, 2023, 08:24:22 AM
That boy's toolbox will be a treasure when he's your age...
Then I should have done a better job. ;D
My favorite is the stool but the toolboxes are neat because of the personal/family touch there. 8)
I'm thinking those tool boxes would make a nice planter box if it was built around a plastic liner.
Actually both of those are for family. The stool goes back to VT on our next trip and the toolbox is for my daughter's nephew. Both are just fun gifts.
Yep got that, just throwing out ideas for craft show things. Something faster, less materials and easier than a bench but bigger and more money than a tablet stand.
I do a pretty fair amount of hanging out in my shop staring at my backyard. I am a member of a whittling sub-reddit, on reddit, and there's some neat work happening, so I got interested. I had a chunk of 2x4 sitting around but quickly determined that I didn't have a knife that was suitable so I bought a pretty basic whittling kit. My skills are slim as I've never really messed around with this stuff but I spent several hours making these little guys over the past couple days. It's been fun. I only sliced into my thumb one time good. I may need to invest in a suturing kit as well before too long, though I am wearing some protective gear, I may not be wearing it in all the right places.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20231126_170958.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701115569)
Man, I wish I could do that. I might give it another try someday, but I need a guru. What kind of wood are you using Austin? I have a mess of 4x4's in basswood out on the drying rack well done I was going to cut up for cravers but none have actually followed up and showed up to buy anything. If you need some. I'd be happy to cut and send whatever you want.
It would be a good way to pass the time at shows.
Carvers and turners don't want to buy wood, they do like to make something from free wood that starts out with no value. Just what it is..
Well the carvers I ran into were all excited about finding a new source of basswood and made all kinds of promises to make arrangements to come get stuff especially when I said I would mill it to their size specs. But not a one actually showed up.
Basswood is the most popular wood I've seen and what came in the kit. It is kind of like frozen butter to work with, meaning really nice. I haven't gone back to the 2x4 (presumed Douglass Fir but who knows) with the knives I now have to see how it carves but it felt dang near hard as a rock when I first started messing with it. I'm not sure that I'll be nearly as creative as a lot of whittlers I've seen but it's fun to do while I relax from work or whatever. I think it'd be a great little thing to do while sitting at shows. The picture below is the mess it made, just for the more completed mushroom... Good fire starter.
The biggest stuff that came in the kit is probably 2"x3" or so, it'd be great to have some bigger pieces Tom, let me know and I'll send you some duckets to send me some! I haven't sourced any yet so I have no idea what to expect price wise, other than the 10 dollar box or whatever you can get on Cramazon.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20231126_153547.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701172021)
No problem but be patient. I have to pull it out of the rack and cut some up for ya is all. Not sure when I will have time to do that. I'll just send you some 4x4 blocks and you can dice it up into whatever smaller sizes you want.
I had a log of butternut show up recently. Called a wood carver friend in Maine who came down over the weekend. We sawed it up and he will be sharing it with others in his area.
I'm all kinds of patient Tom, thank you!
@Old Greenhorn (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42103)
I love that toolbox Tom I'll commission you for a slightly more rugged version of that. My lil boy is a hammer. Thinks everything is a nail! Pm me and let me know the details.
I don't know much about that record,
But she has a Purdy voice. I have my parents records and was pawing through them recently and I picked out that very one. How funny to see a pic of it. Tell us more
Well, you might be sorry, but you did ask. :D Maria was in a tough spot when she cut that album. She was newly divorced from Geoff, who she met while in the Jim Kweskin Jug Band and they lived in Woodstock, NY for a time. After the divorce she moved to CA with her little girl and was trying to find a way, on her own to support her and her daughter. She had a lot of musical friends in CA and thought she could do better there. So she got a lot of help from Friends and took a chance to cut that album. My buddy Bill played on it and some other guys I know. The inclusion of Midnight at the Oasis was a last minute thing. It was written by one of the guys in the studio band and they need a filler tune to complete the album. She thought it was a silly tune, but cute, so she cut it and didn't think much more about it.
So that was her very first album more than 50 years ago and that one 'silly' tune got her on the map. Last time I spoke with her about 3 years ago, she was just over 50 albums cut to date. one for each year of her solo career. She's an amazing woman, generous, very funny, very warm, and very dedicated to her friends. She is also one of the hardest working women you will ever meet. She has a voice that can just melt me into my shoes. My favorite tune she sings is Richland Women Blues, especially when John Sebastian backs her up on his archtop.
Sorry, you asked. :D I stopped short of getting into some of the stories I could tell, let's just say I enjoy her a lot and every time I see her is a good time.
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On that toolbox. Well, that is about as simple as it gets, I'm sure you could make one. I leave them unfished because I figger little kids will want to 'personalize' them with their own paint, stains, or stickers. I know I had every sample of paint I ever touched on my first toolbox. ;D I'd be happy to make you one for nothing, but geez, the shipping is gonna be like 40 bucks for a box that size. Maybe I could make you the parts, ship it flat and you assemble? Shipping is just a killer for this light but larger stuff and I haven't found a way around that yet.
Quote from: aigheadish on November 28, 2023, 06:47:55 AM
The biggest stuff that came in the kit is probably 2"x3" or so, it'd be great to have some bigger pieces Tom, let me know and I'll send you some duckets to send me some! I haven't sourced any yet so I have no idea what to expect price wise, other than the 10 dollar box or whatever you can get on Cramazon.
If your up for a drive come on up. I've got a couple basswood trees that need dropped, I'll cut you whatever size you want.
Well, it may be too late for your upcoming show Tom, but I just had the idea of you making those tool boxes in unassembled kits. Maybe packed with the needed cheap Harbor Freight tools to build it (and give the kids a tool collection start!).
I'd imagine the amount of parents or grandparents who would love to get a little one involved with assembling their own first tool box would be pretty high. You'd do all the cuts to make it right, toss some nails/screws in there with a hammer and screwdriver and you are off, I think the ability to upcharge a bit would be good too... Seems like a great Christmas gift for either the kids or the adults.
Birdhouse kits too...
They'd both be something you can standardize, minimal finishing, etc.
Thanks @Tom K (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=60208) tree sized made me think of whittling with a machete and some ninja spins!
we did that for a cub scout day camp. made about 400 sets of them. set up an assembly line. we used a drill press to do some tight predrill holes to show where to put a nail, and to make it easy to start and get through the first board. looked almost identical to yours.
The kits are an interesting idea I might try. They would have been good to have at this upcoming show, but I don't have time right now to work it up. It's one thing to whip a couple of these out. But for kits I would really have to make templates to make sure they will assemble correctly every time. I don't want to do bird houses though. There are too many folks making those and the local forestry association runs building workshops at one of the shows I do building kits with kids and landowners (kind of like a Den Meeting :D).
Yeah, I like that idea. Takes little space and it's another 'thing' on the table.
I have been bringing a finished slab to shows hoping somebody would want to make it into a bench or table, but it doesn't even get second glances.
Funny you say that tom. my display is a cheap plastic table with some real nice walnut slabs on top of it. everyone loves it buy no one wants to buy it.
Yeah, that right there is the story of my show work. I have so many people that take the time out to tell me they love my work or make a nice compliment on a particular piece, but nobody buys them. There are others or course that just say "I'd like to buy THAT one." I can't eat compliments, but I do appreciate them. I had one lady at one show who leaned in close and said "Your work is beautiful, but you are not charging near enough to what it is worth for the time you put into it." She didn't buy anything either. >:(
I love ppl that say that then walk away.
Price has always been my biggest issue. nobody ever wants to pay what its worth. So I price it where I think it will sell. Unfortunately, my idea of reasonable and someone elses are not the same.
The good new is the acrylics signs I am making seem to have finally hit a price point ppl can deal with.
Here is my latest sign.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/bonnie_and_jim.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701482483)
I love having an artistic wife. But then I have to convert her sketch to something the computer understands.
Tom.
I think we are back to the fact people buy small. inexpensive items at the shows but not the big items. They will hopefully take a card and remember you when they do need a bigger custom item so you are advertising and will realize some future income. It is hard determine how much future income you will receive. Also it is like the old saying "It's hard to remember your goal was to drain the swamp when you are up to your a__ in alligators."
The other saying I use is "When the tide goes down you will be able to walk out." Response " Yeah but I'm drowning now!"
Thinking a number of people going to craft shows are just looking for some clever and good ideas for themselves. Maybe that is what is happening, and few that are looking to buy. ::) ::)
I definitely do not disagree. I do the same thing. Always looking for ideas wherever I go.
Tricky part may be mass producing "hand crafted" items? If you live in a shack and the local wages are $1 an hour, then it's easier. But in the Western World, you need to make a lot more per hour to pay the bills.
I do recall a Woodworking Magazine from a few years back about a guy (in Aussie?) that was making decent $ from turned wooden pens. Tough thing to make money from, but he had his operation streamlined and was making them 50 at a time, and could do that in a day. He wasn't getting rich, but he was making over min wage at least.
Quote from: beenthere on December 01, 2023, 10:57:41 PM
Thinking a number of people going to craft shows are just looking for some clever and good ideas for themselves.....
Well, I am sure there are some, but most are just dreamers and talkers who rarely 'make' anything, but are quick to say, "Oh I could make that and do it even cheaper" to which I always reply 'Knock yourself out. :D' If they are surly, I ask them what kind of sawmill and support equipment they have to start with, because I make all my own wood, then talk about how all they need is a planer, jointer, table saw, good measuring tools, and a hundred or so hours of free time. If they are genuine and polite, I find a nice way to say the same general thing and offer to do the parts they can't and supply them with materials to make what they want, like a 'custom kit'. My wife has had hundreds of omen come into her booth and say to their friend "Oh, this is really nice and a cute idea, but I'll just make a few when I get home." This sets her off every time. ;D More than half the time the 'non-customer' will then ask my wife about the technique she used to make such an item so they can reproduce it. If I am standing there, I back up at that point. :D
Certainly I look for ideas at every show, but not to copy directly. The last thing I want to do is sell something somebody else is already selling. Maybe I see an element in the design I can incorporate into things I make, or display ideas, or signage, or booth layout. I also see a lot of stuff that turns me off and I learn from that too. I was at a show one time and this fella had gorgeous table tops in various odd species and his finishing work was quite good. But legs were his Achilles heel and he freely admitted it was a problem for him. True, they detracted from the beautiful tops, but they would be easy to replace with something nice on the same top. What turned me off was he used deck screws to put his legs together and you could see them everywhere. He loved making tops and was good at it, but never spent the time to figure out his leg issues and most were made from 1x2's. It was a shame.
I will often share compliments with those unique builders and freely tell them what I do and why I like something of theirs in particular and pointing out the finer details that I was caught by. There is a big difference between the person who gets a bird house design out of a magazine and makes 50 of them to peddle, and the person who looks at the design and function then sets out to make a similar use item, but incorporating his/her own design elements and joinery to make something unique. You see both at shows and it's obvious which is which to me, but not so much to the general public who would rather buy the $20. bird house instead of the $75 version and think they scored a big victory with all the money they 'saved'.
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For myself, I really don't want to do production items, but I will do some sparingly. The balance is in constant debate in my head. I got into this to do things I enjoy doing and the money was supposed to cover the cost of my habits, pus a little extra. But since I started there have been some extra financial obligations dumped on me that are forcing me to make sales, so I have to be practical. There is also the 'cost of sales' aspect. If I have to do a show to sell stuff, that is a big time and money expense to sell goods, plus lost work time. If people call me and place an order, or stop by and pick up an item or three, that is a 'no cost' way to sell. I spend the time with them during the sale and 2 minutes after they leave I am back working. This is ideal for me, so I try to promote that by telling everyone my shop is 'open by appointment only'. Many of my mushroom log clients do this and sometimes I have secondary sales during their visits to pick up orders.
Crusarius, do you have a price tag on those slabs, letting folks know they are available? That would catch my eye. ;D
No, I can't sell them now. My wife has claimed them for her table. :)
They do work nice to bring ppl over though.
here is what today's display looked like. Pictures not great but it was right inside the door and definitely got a lot of attention.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20231202_093745.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701549984)
Tom,
I get that all the time when people see my benches and say "Oh, that's just a board with 4 legs poked in a holes in the top." I ask them if they have a tenon cutter? "No". Do you have a heavy duty drill with auger bits to drill the mortises? "No." Where are you getting your live edge slabs? "I don't know." How are you going to cut the legs all the same height and same angle? "Oh, I was going to use a chain saw". (my first ones were made that way and I never got one that would sit level on a concrete pad or floor.)
The best is when the wife sees one and tells her husband "That is the one I want" He will reply "Oh, I can make that." Then the wife replies "I've been after your for 5 years to make me one, I want this one. Pay the man and take it to the car."
Quote from: beenthere on December 01, 2023, 10:57:41 PM
Thinking a number of people going to craft shows are just looking for some clever and good ideas for themselves. Maybe that is what is happening, and few that are looking to buy. ::) ::)
I don't think that is actually true anymore. Years ago before the internet that was the case but now most craftspeople search the internet for what is trending and try to stick with that theme. just so many ideas online without leaving home. I think many craft show visitors this time of year are actually going to buy if they find the perfect gift for the right price. It also appears to me sites like etsy that offer homemade gifts are the small craftsmans worst enemy. I just see online sales soaring these days that takes money off the table.
I'm, unfortunately, one of those guys that stops by booths like y'all are talking about and commenting on how lovely things are (if they are) but not usually buying. Most handmade wood crafting stuff is beyond my budget, regardless of how much I like it.
I definitely understand the amount of work that goes into this kind of stuff and I wish I could afford it both for the beauty and to support artists.
Maybe I need to start buying small stuff here and there just to help you guys pay some bills.
I think the most I've ever spent on one thing at a flea market or craft show (don't know what you want to call it) is 60 bucks. But I wonder if I saw a nice unfinished slab I'd be interested.
We have, just down the way, the "worlds longest yard sale" or the "127 sale" and I think only once did I see a woodworker who had a lot of base material for sale. I think I bought something from him but don't remember what.
I think the more you can quickly put your story behind any pieces you have the more likely stuff will sell.
Back to whittling... I started this little mushroom, as previously shown and made some random cuts to the bottom. But wait! Are they random?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20231203_084311.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701610875)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20231203_084318.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701610866)
No! It's a little guy! I hope it reads properly, and I'm still refining. I thought it was cool that it doesn't look like a little guy when flipped over.
Working on a keepsake box for my grand daughter.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/71994/20231202_092320.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701711568)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/71994/20231202_092226.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701711610)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/71994/20231202_092215.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701711638)
Thanks for the reply Larry.
I've been helping the wife with her holiday gifts again this year. She decided to make all of her directors at work a cutting board. Hopefully we can finish them up this weekend.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_8375.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1701867699)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/70208/IMG_8377.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1701867735)
Tom I would pick the top middle one. She has a lot of directors. must be a government gig. :D :) What are the species used.
Sorry Doc, heath care not government :)
Mainly walnut & maple, with some cherry, white oak, hickory, jatoba & locus. She likes that burly looking maple one also and may keep it if she has an extra one.
They all look great. Healthcare would have likely been my second guess. :snowball:
Busy in the shop today making repairs on a fried shaper, adding some tenons to the big island top, close to final coat on the end grain hobbit table top. I also built an urban lumber sycamore pocket door in the last couple of days as well as some walnut flooring. Hard to get over fertilized, over watered, urban lumber to dance, but it did OK!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Ethan_working_on_shaper_Dec0623~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701909198)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Tulloh_Dec0523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701909291)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Doverspike_Dec0623.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701909347)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Sycamore_pocket_door_2_Dec0623.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701909422)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/Sycamore_pocket_door_Dec0623.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701909458)
That cookie in the 3rd photo has 2 different faces in it. Kind of spooky.
Very nice, except the shaper deal.
@Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1), would like to see the faces.
I only saw one.
I finally got the new cedar gate hung my wife wanted. I know it's not much, but it's what she wanted. Here's a picture of my wife, the gate and the log it came from. She's happy now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/66410/Gate02.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701917037)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/66410/Burnt_Cedar_Log.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1701916984)
I have a customer/friend that I frequently saw for, mostly big live edge slabs. He gave me a large piece of a fire killed sequoia. It was really ugly and mostly black as you can image a fire killed tree would be. I was looking at it with my friend and she thought she could turn a little piece into a bowl so I chain sawed off a chunk to turn. Here is the result.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3475.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702437755)
The bottom bowl is sequoia and the top bowl is maple out of the slab pile.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3476.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702437807)
Another picture of the maple bowl. Best color I've ever seen from maple. Just the first coat of oil so the sheen will improve with a bit more with additional coats.
While she was messing with bowls I was building steam bending forms for a ladder back chair.....I'm going to copy a Brian Boggs chair with a few twists of my own.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3474.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702438153)
Did you know that a half full 5 gallon bucket of concrete anchors is really heavy? ;)
A CL free add had a 17' pallet rack end that was munched by a forklift and a pile of concrete anchors. Well, the anchors were bigger in person. Most were 1" x 10" so not useful to me. They filled 8 or 9 buckets half full. They got scrapped.
There was also 3 buckets of nuts and washers. I kept the 120 galvanized ones. The rest gave me some ideas...
A family with the weird uncle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/1000006739.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702484783)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/1000006746.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702484786)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/1000006745.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702484787)
Alternative groupings.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/1000006744.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702484787)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/1000006740.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702484786)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/1000006742.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702484784)
;)
One of the other battalion chiefs at work asked me to build a picnic table for him to give to his son for Christmas. It's an octagon that I had to follow plans for building it. There are lots of pieces with 22.5 deg cuts. The instructions do not tell you to cut long point and short point. There is simply a length measurement. This thing is heavy as it is built all with treated pine that is of course very wet. Luckily the Kubota made quick work of picking it out of the garage and placing it on my trailer. A little lesson for my son on using the tractor and the loader.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/404910208_843072804493212_1140083361180843462_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702513504)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/403411295_291979409963870_7902913606084741855_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702513528)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/405859765_381629987659789_3161346609823456287_n.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702513547)
still in one piece. good job FFOTS jr. :)
made benches for the neighbor's grandchildren that did not get one last year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/72401441676__3CD59B8C-4559-4B06-A887-567BF95138B8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702514506)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7454.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702514507)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7456.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702514509)
Neat design on that table Bill, wow. Gonna be tough to put that away for the winter though. :D
Doc, looks like you are cranking out stools with your easy bake oven. :D ;D
Well, I think I am calling this one 'done'.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231216_151812278.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702763567)
The cabinet is 44" long, by 33" high, by 19" deep and the top overhangs that by an inch or two on 3 sides.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231216_151629669.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702763711)
The back is intended to fit flush to a wall.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231216_151559413.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702763508)
Top is Red Oak, 3 live edge sides.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20231216_151716273.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702763844)
Sides are Ash but I added a fluted trim on the front edge to cover the dado's. I also only held the top on with some small angle brackets to keep it from sliding around. Top has to be removed for moving anyway because of the weight so I wanted it simple.
I really pulled the material for this out of my ash. I used the ash sides, oak top and maple for the shelves, just searching around for whatever wood I could save and make work. Yeah, I could put another dozen hours or so polishing the epoxy edges (the top and edges are full epoxy floated), but it's not that high end of a job and they need it for Christmas. ;D
I am anxious to get on to the next thing.
Looks good. Wondering how the top side edging was installed to avoid seasonal movements opening up the front miters? I tried that once and a year later had problems with the miters opening even with doweling them at the joint. What's your secret? Is it encasing everything in epoxy so the seasonal moisture content can't change.
Well, I guess we'll see. :D Truth is, I've never had a problem...yet. I put a lot of effort into filling every little crack and cranny in the wood before cutting fitting up, and finishing. With the epoxy, I really doubt there is any moisture getting into this at all. The edges are biscuit joined all around, but that's just alignment. Biscuits and dowels do nothing for joint strength really, just align it for easier gluing and clamping. This top does not have epoxy on the bottom, just 4 coats of poly, which also seals pretty well.
I guarantee all my work, so if there is a problem, I'll fix it. But I really don't expect an issue. It's a good point you make though and I wonder if Rob @tule peak timber (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) has any thoughts on this since he does so much more of it than anybody I know.
From what I have noticed Rob seems to hide a Baltic Birch substrate with veneers to keep intersections like this stable. Then many coats of WOC finishes that I have never heard of. After the cart I made my sister had problems I gave up trying to hide end grain on tops.
Honestly, I don't do bread board ends on any of my designs. A lot of guys who do bread boards choose to dowel or pin through a tenon rather than gluing, to allow for some movement. As far as coating schedules, on any of the projects I do, the finish schedule is the same top, bottom and sides; that is, everywhere the same, balanced. Epoxy is good for keeping moisture in or out and the topcoats I use, on top of epoxy, are even more waterproof and usually contain a UV component, and hopefully are harder than the epoxy itself.
When I build with veneers, on a substrate, the veneers are typically 1/4-1/2" thick, so I can get a little round over on the edge, imitating solid wood. The purpose of the baltic birch substrate is stability and also saves a lot of weight as these structures are usually hollow or engineered. One way to put the bread board ends and sides on a veneered piece would be to heavily dado the bullnose, so it gets a good hold on the stable veneered piece. An additional thing you can do on the corners is to run splines, either blind or visible. I don't care for mitered corners and would choose a half lap look instead. If the end grain is a problem,,,highlight it with a little carving to show off the piece as a solid hunk of wood!
can you show an example of what you mean, "a little carving on the end grain if it is a problem"? is that just to distract the eye, or functional in some way?
making a new squirrel feeder for my wife's mom. fill the jar and hoist it up. easier than screwing a corn cob onto a screw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7494.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702887407)
here is the elm cookie I gave to Dr. Hagley. @cardiodoc. after about a year's effort. was stabilized and now re-flattened. has some epoxy. and some polyethylene glycol. 4 feet across and 3 inches thick.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_3892~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702887407)
here are the plaques from one of my "near eagle" scout projects, to place on the benches he made for the disabled housing units here in town.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7481~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702887409)
point in time at the ED party at our house for the holidays.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7480~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702887408)
had a broken bone, but could see some ID, may add it back later.
Well, I guess I'm learning the strength of a certain thickness of whittling wood... Basswood or Doug Fir (presumably) 2x4. The tree and big mushroom I wasn't happy with but the little guy was coming along ok, even after I chopped his nose off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20231217_160328.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702901861)
Quote from: doc henderson on December 17, 2023, 11:07:46 PM
can you show an example of what you mean, "a little carving on the end grain if it is a problem"? is that just to distract the eye, or functional in some way?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/mesquite_table~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1702912057)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/wet_bar~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1702912111)
And of course you can always use a router to highlight solid wood construction.
Well, as much fun as it is to hear why this will fail over time, I just wanted to point out that the only reason I did this was because (as mentioned) I was really strapped for wood. I am OUT of anything of decent size and dimension. I did not have enough to make the full length and width top required, but I did have some funky RO that I could take the edges off of.
Should this top fail as predicted. I will happily replace it with a complete new one when my wood supply is back up to snuff. I do guarantee my work, always. I did make the top removable so this won't be an issue.
Quote from: tule peak timber on December 17, 2023, 12:15:27 PMA lot of guys who do bread boards choose to dowel or pin through a tenon rather than gluing, to allow for some movement.
I built a dining trestle table about 35 years ago and still use it. I did a breadboard edge on each end and did just this. I stopped the tenon short of the ends so you don't see it from the side and pinned the center with a glued dowel (no glue on the tenon). I put two more dowels at the ends and made slotted holes in the tenon with no glue in the tenon section of the dowel to allow movement. And move it does. The table is 3' wide and during the winter with dry wood heat in the house the ends of the breadboard are flush with the sides of the table. By the peak of a humid summer the table grows in width and I will see over 1/4" difference in the width of the table and length of the breadboard edge. I'm OK with it and think for the table style it looks more finished with the breadboard edge.
OGH, you never know - it may be fine. I've seen projects with glued cross grains and thought they would have issues and they didn't. I was taught to not constrict that movement so I've never tried it myself.
I have a design for a large waterfall table I want to make sometime this winter. I've been thinking about how to make the miter waterfall joint. I could do splines, domino's, or dowels but none of those methods have really impressed me for several reasons. Fine Woodworking has had a couple of articles about using "L" tenons. Some were solid wood, others a composite of wood and aluminum angle, and one was made from baltic birch. I found a video detailing the baltic birch method from a source that I respect and trust. L-shaped Tenons (https://woodschool.org/woodschool_videos/49-how-to-join-carcase-miters-with-l-shaped-tenons/)
I thought it would be helpful to practice before cutting up a high dollar slab. Grabbed a short junk slab to make a kitchen step stool.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3498.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702950773)
With a dry fit it was solid as a rock. My GF and I bounced on it and no give.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3501.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702950773)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3502.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1702950774)
Glue up was an easy process and clamps brought all the pieces together. The legs are exactly 90 degrees and no gaps. The glue line can barely be made out. I decided to put a small round over on the joint but I think that was a mistake as it adds a slight bit of distortion to the waterfall effect. First coat of oil on this morning and the sheen will improve with a couple more coats.
I'm liking the round over, flows better with the soft edges to me.
That's a great video explaining the joint. Thanks for sharing it. I also like the radius.
The stool is cool. The joinery is impressive.
One of the logs we got the other day was cut too short but since it was a decent sized slash pine, we had it loaded on the trailer anyway. I sawed it into 1 3/8" thick boards and one live edged slab. I figured it was long enough to make a picnic table out of. This is green so I expect the lap joints to loosen a bit but maybe it won't fall apart.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_7780.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703034824)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_7779.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703034544)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_7774.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703034547)
My wife really did not want her picture taken but I said something mildly inappropriate, and she could not help but smile, so I pushed the button. The table is for my oldest daughter and her husband.
That's a nice solid design with good execution. She should get many many years out of that.
Today's last minute Christmas gift for my dad.
He finally retired after 35+ years.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20231223_132520.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1703356298)
This time I'm making the view better. When I say "I'm" I mostly mean my lovely wife. After I put in the new culverts I hacked the right side of that path back a bit. That gave my wife the opportunity to really get that junk cleared out so we have a nicer view of the back field. I expect to keep most of the big trees that are in the path but we may lose some limbs here or there. Today I went out and chainsawed some big downed logs and honeysuckle. When it's all said and done we'll probably have about 20+ feet more to the right of the existing path cleared out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20231223_153511.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1703363576)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7439.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702046763)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7440.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702046774)
Sammy the shop cat at my buddy Dallas's place. he liked to sit in Dallas's chair in the room with all the trophies.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7413~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703691398)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7415~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703691336)
Last week he got out on the road. He was after moles out in the ditch.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7528.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703691654)
I could not get a pic of Dallas cause I had tears in my eyes. Dallas loved that cat. He would always check under my truck if the cat was out before I left. Dallas told me a story about running over a friend's dog, that always got under people's cars, and he never forgot it. only so much you can do.
Well, another sad pet story. this one belonged to my lead scribe's BIL and died on Christmas. Diesel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/image000000~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703690740)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7544.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703690739)
I thought the content made a great engraving, and the gift will be appreciated by the owner. Katlyne came and helped. I have known her for almost 10 years. She also worked at Wesley, and I made the cake topper out of wood on my engraver with a bear and a fox. that was their thing. they dated since 6th grade, and got married at about age 26.
It was a thin piece of spalted maple and got a significant warp with finish. 15 x 15 inches. I made a brace to flatten it with finish and in the warmer. it lays flat now. note the screws on each end of the wood stick. I think the heat and moisture from the spar urethane, help to relax and flatten the piece.
This has been in the cue for a year and finally had enough free time and with Christmas here, I got it done. Retired Airforce, and now from sheriff's department. He has a war room he will add this to. Dave and Ellie.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7526.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703690835)
It is 14 x 18 Elm. actual size of the Honorable Discharge letter he keeps put away.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/72496172161__DD0472E8-6433-46C8-AD9B-4D9D1B95EE76.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703692729)
Well, we were having a conference at the table saw, and Jim (not Jimmy) pulled a pair of blue balls out of his pocket. he said his wife said he could have them for a while but had to return them. they were a gift to him years ago, as she is an occupational therapist, and she recommended them for stress relief. he asked if I had a scrap of wood on the floor that I could mill to stop these from rolling around on his desk. Jim is the one that brews beer, and distilled the whiskey that was in the cask that made it to a pig roast and a sawing project.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/72531652933__C3139F73-5A7A-4BAE-812C-05C602B1C0A6.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703693034)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/72531661471__7944BBA2-DB04-441F-BBC4-F8A2B6F4F4AB.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703693066)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/C8707140-C71C-4E77-9BEA-9F94AE13651C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1657400438)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/ED234C94-BE3A-4F64-B10C-4C28013800F4.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703693603)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/1DDEB842-58D7-4525-B7ED-393947FB8D3A.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1618922331)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7494.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702887407)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7531.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703693944)
new squirrel feeder for MIL.
We have been busy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7479.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703690837)
had the ED party at our house.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_0065.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703690833)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_0076.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703690835)
helped with the luninaries again this year. with only two active scouts, Dr. Fan and I supervised an honor student group from the high school.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_3892~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1702887407)
here is an elm cookie that @cardiodoc has spent hours and coin on for the past year +.
He wanted me to go look at a slab flattening jig owned by another doc. (retired total joint ortho.) who also showed us what he has been making. He does woodworking and gets his wood from me. he is the one that made the epoxy river desk for his grandson. He has a winery and we have done engraving for boards, coasters, and also on his crystal wine glasses. he also does astro photography. here he is with Dr Hagley on the left.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7394.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703691346)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7400.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703691338)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_7399.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1703691344)
I have decided that I need to do some shop/basement reorganization.
After Retiring and bring my tools home and years of accumulating stuff.................
one thing i have been working towards id being able to surface larger slabs.
I watched many Youtube videos about homemade router slab flatteners. I then saw the Lee Valley Tools kit.
I like it for its simplicity and potential expandability, it uses 1 1/2" EMT for the "rails" and 5/16" U bolts with nylon spaces for the bearings.
I have a 4'x8' bench I was using for my workbench/outfeed table that I decided to use.
Then I bought a Hercules router and a 2" planer bit.
I gave it a trial on a really poorly chainsawn slab. it worked quite well. I may have a 1/16"in 60" twist in my long axis.
I want to rebuild my EMT mounts with better accuracy. I really need to put some chip collection on it.
Sorry no pictures yet. I have a bad problem with flat surfaces..............stuff gets piled on them.
Because I took my workbench/outfeed table I needed a new one. Again youtube influenced me to build a MFT/Microjig style bench.
I used red oak for the base and 3/4 MDF for the top.
For the dog hole pattern I bought the UJK Parf guide Mark II system. It is a very accurate method to get a square layout of the holes.
Using the holes and appropriate dogs it makes a very accurate crosscut station with a track saw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/workbench.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1704029972)
I added levelers to my saw to make it easier to get both in the same plane
Nice table. I put rollers behind my saw so things can't be piled on them
Get a set of the Armor auto dog clamps for that nice top. One handed and can put hundreds of pounds of clamping force in a second. Mine are the most used tools in my shop
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This place up by me has some nice sled kits also Routing Sled 96x48 | Framing Technology (https://www.framingtech.com/solutions/router-sled-kits/routing-sled-96x48)
I've never built anything out of cedar before mainly because I have never had any.Now that I have a little thought I'd try some on a bluebird house.Now I see why people like it.It's a easy wood to work with.Maybe try something a little more complicated for my next project but I'm limited on woodworking equipment and to tight to buy much more.
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Scratch coating the big live oak island top today. Happy New Year !
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scratch coat? so is that a thin coat to sand and look for imperfections, or the gloss to show imperfections. I apologize for using the word imperfection, but that is what you use to make money. right? :D :D :D :new_year:
Exactly , many thin coats (that are sanded off) to highlight imperfections.
Imperfections are great as long as I did not cause them!!!!
That island top looks great. I think your customer will be pretty DanG'd happy with that! 8) 8)
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for Dallas. his recent loss of Sammy, and a prev. cat buried at the end of his coral.
I spent the first day of the year teaching a guy how to use the wood lathe to turn a bowl. I always enjoy teaching as I often learn more than the student.
I also turned a bowl but I don't think it will hold water......must be art.
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I had my daughter home for a few days over Christmas and she spent some time in the shop helping finish some boxes we made for her apartment. Its always great to have her home but especially to have time with her in the shop.
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Nice looking stuff guys!!!
Headboard from some ash and white pine I milled/kilned/sanitized.
Very satisfying to make something from trees you have processed yourself!
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Great looking headboard !
Checking off the honey do list with a pocket door in my house. Urban lumber Sycamore with a light brown stain and GF Enduro top coat.
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Super nice, any pics of the installation of the pocket door? I have one to do in the shop bathroom. My wife says, "you need to get a door in the shop bathroom". I tell there is one, it is leaning against the wall. :D
Doc, I bought the Johnson pocket door kit with an aluminum I beam. Their instructions detail the rough in. I'll see if I have any pics. The installation is pretty straight forward. I have several Johnson kits here and there in my home and like them so far.
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Tule I cannot wait to wind up close to CA and request a tour of your operation. Looks like you could charge admission.
The BBQ is hot and the beer is cold...... 8)
And near Disneyland too! I think a lot of the stuff Disneyland has was inspired by the Tule Peak operation and grounds. :D
Yeah, I would love an excuse to visit for sure. Any B&B's near there? Y'all have too many creepy critters to camp. :D
At the Anaheim Disney, check out the park benches in Frontierland. ;D
Yeah, actually that's kind of what I was thinking about. "Tule Peak Timber, where dreams come to reality"
The standing desk for the judge is built. I just need to make a couple shelves to go in it. Now I need to figure out the stain color to match her other furniture. I'm taking wood samples and stains to work with me and I will try to figure out a combination that works. I made this with hard maple, maple plywood and the top is a piece of birch butcher block. It looks nice and it saved a bunch of time over gluing up my own panel.
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Looking really good Bill! I especially like the molding under the top, that looks slick. Yes, the color match on this has always been the challenge, but I am sure you will work through enough options to work out a good one. Every project has a hump in it, right? :D
Reminiscent of the work Tom is doing, I volunteered to make a cremation urn for a lady at work. I'll have to scroll back through this thread to see all the box ideas. If I've made a box it's been a looong time ago, so we'll see how it goes.
Working in my Rob Cosman style workbench.
Got to drill dog holes next. Sjoeberg vise. Going to add a leg vise as well.
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@firefighter ontheside (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=26921) Who's the "judge"? A real judge? If so, a judge cannot have a standing desk, they have to sit on the bench. That's what I heard.
Quote from: Brad_bb on January 09, 2024, 01:08:54 PM
@firefighter ontheside (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=26921) Who's the "judge"? A real judge? If so, a judge cannot have a standing desk, they have to sit on the bench. That's what I heard.
No toe kick area so it probably just a fancy bookcase.
I can't recall being in a position where I had any desire to tell the judge to sit down :D
I think I remember it was for her office.
A federal judge in ST Louis for her chambers(office). She explicitly told me it didn't need to have a toe kick space, but I overhung the front by a few inches to provide a little space. She has her normal, large sitting desk in her chambers and says she slouches too much, so wants this desk to stand at and use her laptop on occasion. Her laptop will connect to a docking station and there will be a separate keyboard and monitors.
thanks Tom. I wish I would have made the trim under the top a little bigger, but otherwise I'm happy with it.
We (at least me) don't think much about a toe kick space until we start standing at a place that doesn't have one. ::)
The genius's that designed my house put a vent right in the toe kick space under the kitchen sink. It's quite lovely to have warm air blowing on your feet there.
maybe in an effort to keep pipes from freezing and not necessarily to keep your feet warm.
we have double sinks in our bathroom and a vent for each. with the woodstove going, the forced air upstairs does not come on.
We have one in the cabinet kick below the kitchen sink also. Actually there is one under every window in the house so that's probably the reason. Works great even with the furnace off to circulate the woodstove heat with the blower on low. My dog hogs the sink one ;D
helps keep the temps even throughout the room. on radiant floor heat, the outer perimeter of a system the pex is every 6 inches, and then 1 foot in the more center of the room.
Look up electric kickspace heaters, you can even retrofit one if the client was spoiled in another life :D. My partner did a radiant one brought up into the toespace from the floor loop.
A molded nose cone for my boat with a receiver to tow it by hand or eventually an ATV. It snaps on and off and is very light weight.
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Looks fantastic!!
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table for Dallas and his wife Amy to set coffee on between these two chairs.
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Crosses delivered and installed. RIP Sammy the shop cat.
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My buddy Jim needed an industrial rustic bird feeder. He now works form home and watches birds out the window. He came over and I got a frozen plank out of the pile. It will hang by two cables that course through the lid to keep it in place. there is also a routed recess on the bottom. They have 4 children, but their first was a stillborn (so five) and the story of the dragonfly who leaves his home in the water to fly around the rest of his days is one his wife likes. So.
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so then the extra touch.
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Made another washboard table. I use the old National glass washboards as legs and then add live edge supports/top/shelf. Original design was for a record player table and record storage on the shelf. also nice side accent table. This one is made with walnut top/shelf.
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That is a neat idea! Nice job!
Pretty cool bird feeder too Doc!
These FF folks are SO talented!
I agree that we have many talented people on this board. I see a lot of great ideas from everyone. It is fun to see all the different things we and our customers make with the trees we process. My biggest problem is I'm down to less than 10 live edge slabs to play with and many more ideas.
Doc, it is early and I haven't had my coffee yet. Could you clarify how the feeder hangs and how you fill it? You said "It will hang by two cables that course through the lid to keep it in place." I just can't envision how that works.
My dad used to feed birds a lot. Our standard January birthday present to him was bags of bird seed.
Thanks.
Doug in SW IA
cable is not shown in the pic, but I drilled at an angle through the lid and top of the two wood sides, exited into the center compartment. I fed the cable through the lid and side then crimped an aluminum feral to the end so it could not slip through. the lid had a recess routed in the underside shaped like the top of the feeder. if hung by the two cables from a soffit then the lid can lift off and slide up the two cabled to fill it with feed. so, you do not have to set the lid somewhere. wind cannot blow it off. hope that makes sense. hard to verbalize. I can get pics if needed.
Got it!
Thanks,
Doug in SW IA
That's a pretty slick boat device, Rob. Is that to go with your RV or somewhere at home?
Cool stuff Doc. I'm glad you're getting some shop time.
I delivered the standing desk to the Judge's office this morning. We got a little snow last night and it was 2 deg this morning. I was happy the loading dock at the court building was inside. Not heated, but at least indoors. Got the desk up and into the office in about 15 minutes. The loading dock security guy told me I had 30 minutes. I was happy with the color match to her office.
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I went back to look, and 8 months ago to the day I posted about finishing the first side of our closet. Yesterday I finished the other side. I wonder why my wife says she'd rather just buy it than wait on me :D I see the the gallery is down while Jeff works on the upgrades so I'll follow-up with a picture once things are all up and running!
Time to start working on the dining room table.
I'm the same way.
Yesterday morning I'd hoped to be "Makin'" my shower better, finally.
I have one of those tiny, like 3'x3' showers, and we have a shower caddy in there to hold soaps and shampoos and the like. When we moved in, almost 8 years ago, my short wife hung the caddy in the shower and it's low enough that i can't move my arms around at all without knocking that thing around or off the screw it's hanging by.
I've been thinking about it for months and it's been getting more and more on my nerves. This tiny shower just being made tinier by the dumb caddy. Enough! I'm moving it up, today is the day! She's fine with it.
Well, the day goes on, I knock down a tree that we then cut up and cleared the yard of. Next thing I know I've got a bourbon and I've forgotten entirely about the shower caddy, until this morning when I opened the shower curtain.
Austin, you're still a young guy. I have many things around here that finally driven me crazy enough to take immediate action, and I will, very soon. It's only been 30+ years, no sense being hasty, I'm still thinking on the right way for it to be done. ;D
aigheadish:
Sorry to read about you getting sidetracked.
I can vouch for you not being the only one.
GAB
It's nice that I'm not alone, you guys are funny.
I started to do it last night and got some supplies together, when I realized the caulk is out in the very cold garage, so I brought it into the house to warm up, then got back to a bourbon... Tonight may be the night!
I did it! The shower caddy is now above shoulder height! I've loaded it up and we'll see if the screw (with anchor) holds up to the weight of a full shampoo bottle and new bars of soap. 8 years in the making! Woop!
This is dumb but I'm pretty legitimately excited to take a shower in the morning to see how it goes.
Let's try this picture thing!
Working on some shop organization. This will hold 24 bolt bins, sandpaper in 5" & 6" size, my drill/impact, and eventually my chargers for drill batteries. I was short on wood. A 7"x12" piece of poplar and I will have this thing ready to hang.
I made a nice table, for the stool that I was using in place of a table, out of the cutting board that I messed up. Works beautifully. In real life they sit with the flat parts point up. Interesting, when you click on the photos they spin around, right side up ( @Jeff if you aren't aware)
The judge sent me a picture of the desk in use and she said she's very happy with it.
The desk looks really great. I love the higher res. pics, that are easily made full screen.
Thanks Doc
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Used the "Insert image" gizmo thing" and it worked. :)
speaking of gizmo things Larry... what the heck?
oh, I see a direct tab for you tube! that will be nice.
I agree, Larry, what the heck? Can you show the other side of your sanding contraption? That looks pretty handy!
I think they call them rolling pin sanders. :P
I made the sanding tool some years ago and borrow sanding drums from my oscillating spindle sander to use. The sander works really well and is quite fast.
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Thanks! That looks easy enough to cobble up.
must have bearings inside the pipe/handle. chrome... really? :)
The silver handle is 1/8" wall aluminum conduit. I bored each end to accept bearings on my metal lathe. If you search rolling pin sander you will find commercial models. I made mine because I have a large assortment of different diameter sanding drums from my osculating spindle sander I wanted to use.
The commercial ones I've been around were pneumatic, you could soften or harden the drum depending on what you were doing. We called those a rolling pin and the stationary with a bigger pneumatic drum was a pump sander. That machine had a Vonnegut brushed sander head on the other side of a stationary grinder type machine. Really good machines for contoured stuff.
Finished off a small coffee table. Design was influenced by George Nakashima. I've never ever seen a curved leg as I put on this table. Not sure I like it, but will find out in a couple of months what the public thinks, as it will be going in a exhibit. Also experimented with a Livos oil finish and got more shine than I've ever seen out of oil. Learned how to reliably adjust the sheen as its applied.
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While messing with the table finish I made a couple of pepper shakers for a girl.
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I'd never seen a Whale Tail Leg on a table before.
From the pictures it sure does look good.
GAB
Nice table Larry. it is to the point I can see a pic and say, "I bet Larry made that". How do you adjust the sheen.
Whale Tail, that's a good one! :) Never would have thought that one up.
Doc, I put on two coats of oil which I call my base. Standard way, just slosh on and if I see a dry spot put on some more. Wipe it off after 10-15 minutes. After these two coats the sheen is pretty flat. The following coats are put on very thin and as soon as I get the oil on I run the ROS over it with a Scotch Brite white pad. I go ahead and wipe immediately after the ROS but usually not much if anything to pick up. The sheen picks up after every application just a little. I let each coat dry at least 24 hours before putting down another coat. Took three of the thin coats to get the sheen I was after on this table.
A side benefit of using the Scotch Brite pad is people want to reach out and feel the wood. I always get a comment that the wood feels soooooo good. :)
Having a local guy build a 3 panel walnut door for me. I have too many irons in the fire to do it right now. I am supplying him with the material. The rails and styles need to finish at 2 1/4 inches thick and we want them out of a solid piece instead of a glue up. So material that thick and dry is not easy to come by. I still had three consecutive 26" wide walnut slabs that are 2.75" thick that I had dried at the end of last winter. So I had to sacrifice 2 of the slabs because the same half of each slab has a bark inclusion but the other half was pretty clear and quarter sawn. I had chainsaw milled these a handful of years ago. The pieces needed to be jointed and although I don't have a conventional jointer, I have a Woodmizer MP100 planer for my mill track. It acts like a big jointer. I usually use it to true up beams after they've air dried a few years and stabilized. Anyway this works just fine for the bigger material.
Jointing Door parts (https://rumble.com/v4b74g6-jointing-some-thick-walnut-door-rails-and-styles..html)
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That would have been nice when I built my bathroom door. It's not easy to face joint door parts that are 7' long.
Working on the photo posting. here is a shelf I made to raise the screen and speaker so the keyboard can slide under out of the way. I often do my work meeting on my laptop at my shop desk. This is a scrap of elm that has been sitting around.
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Nice sound setup, better than pc speakers and you have a sub woofer :thumbsup:
I see you keep surgical gauze and tape measure handy for the next injury :knife: hurt_smiley
:smiley_carpenter_hit_thumb :crash_dummy_examining_torn_ar
just cleaning the shop and reorganizing a bit. too much and I cannot find anything. No flat surface is safe!!! :sneaky: :uhoh: :wideeyed: :)
It is a logi and was not too expensive. I listen to music and have a beer occasionally and it has an amp so I can play along with my Dobro. It sounds best after a few beers with the music turned up loud! smiley_hillbilly_tub_base smile_banjoman smiley_fiddler
Occasionally I like LOUD music in the shop. Working on a wall of oak today. Used to be firewood and boat bits.... :)
that speaker set (logitech) is 56 bucks on amazon. 50 watts. It is great at the desk. I have a stereo that plays the audio to fox new 24/7 unless I decide to hear music all over the shop.
I tweaked my back last week so no work got done on the kiln, but I did get the organizer hung and made some clamp racks this weekend. Slowly making the shop workable :thumbsup:
Made a organizer to fit on a cabinet shelf in my RV.
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My thinking is that I can store can goods, spices, condiments, and etc. in the adjustable slots. I made 5 slats so I'll have plenty of slots. Should keep them all in place.
Moving slowly forward, next step is to make a pullout for a shelf in the lower cabinets. Think I'll also make pullouts for the space under the seats at the dinette.
Using up some low grade white oak fresh from my kiln. I dried it pretty hard to 6%. It works better at 8 or even 10% which is my favorite. One of the things learned from being both a woodworker and sawmill guy.
I am getting ready to start a dining table for my daughter. She wants a table with simple lines in maple with a light stain.
I really want this to come out nice. I am confident in the woodworking piece of the project but I'll admit that finishing is not my strong point.
I'm a little concerned about staining the maple and not getting a blotchy finish and would love to hear ideas and tips. I'm also looking for ideas for the best finish to use for a good looking, durable dining table that is meant for daily use.
Larry, yer a man after my own heart. When we bought our new camper the first thing I did was mouse proof it with steel mesh at every utility perforation. That included removing the bathroom sink and tub & shower unit to get to some of those holes. Also added pullouts on all lower cabinets and installed drawers under the dinette seats as well as under the bed. Then made all new cabinet doors and drawer fronts so all the existing ones matched the new ones.
A blotchy finish is caused by the finish not being absorbed equally in the board. Usually caused by figured wood, and worse in cherry. Two methods to prevent it. The first is a coat or two of de-waxed shellac followed by your finish of choice. Second is sand to a high grit, and raise the grain with water a couple of times. Doesn't always work and sometimes can cause problems with a oil finish. I'm sorta weird and like it when the finish blotches a little as it adds interest.
Two choices for finish. Film or penetrating oil. Film is something like conversion varnish, poly, or epoxy. My favorite, but not the one with the highest protection is Waterlox High Gloss. Been around forever, used to be called "Gym Floor Finish". Its a phenolic resin varnish with a high solids content. Easy to use but you will need a dust free place to apply it for 24 hours.
Oil offers the least protection buy easy to repair. The buzz word today is hard wax oils. The two most prominent are Rubio and Osmo. I use and like a oil by the name of Livos #244 followed by Livos Countertop oil.
If I were making a everyday use table for a family with small kids I would choose Waterlox High Gloss. It can handle lots of abuse. For a table in a house with old farts I would definitely use oil. So much better look and feel. If you want to chance a oil finish table in a house with kids, make em some coasters, and buy them some place mats. :)
Whatever you choose it would be worthwhile trying it on a test piece or small project before the main event.
NEB, your daughter is prob an exception, but many interchange the words stain and finish. I rarely stain anything but choose the wood for its natural color and character. Poly will add a golden glow and the beauty of the maple can shine through. I would do a scrap in several finishes and see if she likes it natural. general finish makes a wipe on wipe off poly that is pretty clear, can be reapplied and with wipe off no brush marks or need to spray. It tends to be clear and not yellow.
@Larry - thanks for the tips and information.
@doc henderson - she does want stain; she likes maple but even with the amber color of an oil based poly she wants a bit darker/brownish color. I've made her a few things over the years so I'm getting to learn her taste.
It's hard sometimes to make something for a loved one with different tastes than you have. I've made things for my son and daughter and other close family members and I have to remind myself that I am building what they like, not what I like. It's hard not to inject your personal likes into a project.
Thanks for tips so far and I'm open to hearing other tips and opinions. I won't be starting the table for a bit as I have to gather the materials, but I do like having a woodworking project going in the winter and mud seasons. As I mentioned earlier, I enjoy woodworking and feel that I have decent skills, but I need to get better at finishing.
I got together with a group of woodworkers this morning. One gave a report on a nano ceramic finish coating as sold by Blacktail Studio (https://n3nano.com/). There are others that sell the stuff.
He said the finish gives a level of protection he has not seen. Liquid spills no problem. As a bonus he said the finish also gave a extra pop to his figured walnut. To use it he finished the table as normal with Osmo than coated with the ceramic finish. Might be well worth it especially if the client foots the bill. I thought the cost was way too high but he said it goes a lot further than one would expect. Think I'll wait till I hear a few more reports.
On the other hand a Sam Maloof table finished with his old time oil finish still brings money in the five figure range when sold.
A cart for the packout boxes I have customized to hold tools and hardware. Stacking is nice for mobile jobs but a pain in the shop when you need it quick. 27 dados did not go well the first try :uhoh:
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20240209_130952.jpgNight stand from ash and white pine. All from my property
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very nice. is that a fan on top?
ffcheesy that is a box fan and filter mounted on top of my bandsaw over in the corner. I have a walmounted air filter system you can see in the other pic. I put the box fan on when I first bought the bandsaw and it comes on when the bandsaw is turned on.
Dust is a never ending battle...
Broncman
I have that same arrangement to filter air in the shop. Works great with fine dust floating in the shop air.
I'd show a pic, but my shop is so crowded that it is difficult to see that box fan with the furnace filter hanging above the radial arm saw and over the belt sander and the jig saw (would get rid of it but its table holds my drill bits). ffcheesy
I started on a dog, coon. cat and bear resistant trash box today. I've been using 55 gallon drums but the bottoms have rusted out of the metal ones and my plastic one got brittle in the sun over the years and broke into pieces. I'm using poplar because I have lots of it on hand. Won't be real rot resistant but I left spaces between the floor boards and I will likely attach some short locust posts or such to the bottom or put it up on stones or cinderblocks so it is off the ground. I'm just making a 45" X 30" X 32" wide box and will make it 36" tall at the back. I'll rip a 2X6 to get the slope from front to back. I haven't decided on the top yet. May just make a picture frame style frame for the top. I may cut up some scrap roofing to cover it. As you have noticed a lot of my design is done on the fly. smiley_grin
Oh yeah - I had to stop because I ran out of 12d nails and will resume work when I get some more.
I finished my trash box today. It was a real learning experience. First it is way too big and way too heavy. It is about 4' wide X 3' deep and slopes for 3'-2.5'. I will try to move it tomorrow. I don't think my FEL will lift it. I have a set of pallet forks my son left me years ago I have not tried. They may do the trick. Worst comes to worst I can drag it into my 5X8 trailer and move it with it. I doubt my wife can lift the heavy cover. The hardest part of the build was trying to figure what kind of hinges to use and how to install them. I found I had a really good mix from butt hinges, to strap hinges to T-strap and even J-bolts. I even thought about piano hinges but there is too much weight there for them.
I am scared to ask the design committee for recommendations but what the hay. ffcheesy I need to figure some way to install a counterweight system. If I ever go to built another I'll make it about half-2/3 this size.
design committee is here. :)
Amazon.com: A-Premium Hood Lift Supports Shock Struts Replacement for Dodge Ram 1500 2500 3500 5500 2002-2010 2-PC Set : Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Supports-Shock-Struts-2002-2010/dp/B01GPP72DG/ref=sxin_13_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.92181fe7-c843-4c1b-b489-84c087a93895%3Aamzn1.sym.92181fe7-c843-4c1b-b489-84c087a93895&crid=2NLTCXWO8M7F6&cv_ct_cx=hood+strut&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3NZml3Sd2t3M7uuDIwWXCvZKVI81dzdrN6zTgrxbruM24nYd6oIcKlBRgbHIcgTJIIgQsJx2fBihHrv9JOFoAA.EYtUtD49tbp2cB79OUMZWeZqfga_OQHjfDl6o3b_wuI&dib_tag=se&keywords=hood+strut&pd_rd_i=B01GPP72DG&pd_rd_r=cd7e8bc0-0805-411d-aec2-40cada01a924&pd_rd_w=vyHDz&pd_rd_wg=xAILl&pf_rd_p=92181fe7-c843-4c1b-b489-84c087a93895&pf_rd_r=0BBJ8DK90HESD6XQNR7Y&qid=1708126992&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=hod+stru%2Caps%2C172&sr=1-1-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1)
Hood struts!
When I built me package delivery box I actually put the hinge / pivot point at the bottom of the box so the lid slides / pivots back. That way even when there is 50 pounds of snow on top of the box its still easy to open.
But for your box I think the hood struts will be very helpful.
We always make ours with the lid divided into two or three sections, much easier to handle. Put an old blade on your circular saw and a few more hinges...don't forget the safety glasses or face shield.
The next issue is the hinges will want to pull out without a backstop for the lid, At the apartments I like the backstop to be ahead of centre so the lid can't be left open but for my own I would put it behind centre so the lid will stay open when opened.
At one building the bin gets a lot of wind and would blow down the hill so I had to sink some pipe in the ground and tie it to the bin.
My trash bin has held up to the racoons and bear but I made it so the front was on french cleats and easy to remove. The lid is just 7/16 t1-11. With furring strips around the edge to keep it straight.
Howard, weigh the lid, and you need the same weight at the center of gravity, or more wight closer in. If you put a rod or pipe extending over the back of the slide, and can add weight to it, and poss. even slide it in and out, you can fine tune how hard it is to lift. or experiment, and when you have the weight and lever arm figured out, it could all be welded solid. a metal weight with a set screw would be ice for adjustment. looks good.
the pipe sticking back is cantilever and will stop the lid going straight up and not let it flop over the back.
Well way I would go. easier to show then tell here. This is a crude sketch that will show one option for both holing it open and keep it from flopping all the way over. You can put wear boards on the back for the weight to scratch up. A cement block would work, mess with the weight until you find what works. Sorry for the lousy sketch.
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here is what I had in mind. no moving parts, other than hinges. weight could slid on a pipe or just be sctrewed to a board hanging out over the back.
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the first thing that came to my mind on your heavy cover would possibly be a couple lifting struts like what is used on todays vehicle hoods and rear hatch doors
Thanks to all for your advice but in this case I think Doc has pretty much nailed it in regard to simplicity and use of available material and my limited expertise. In fact I can easily see adding enough weight so the the lid stays open all the time with minimal weight required to close the lid and a simple latch or hasp (which I have plenty in stock) to keep the lid closed so the default is open and close when needed. ffcool
The raccoons at my house would have that figured out in about 2 minutes. In fact, I think they would use it as a teeter totter ffwave ....but Arkansas coons are exceptionally smart. ffcool
Use CL to find free weights, the disk kind. Simply add them to Doc's bar until you have what you need.
I am envisioning a couple of 2X4s like Doc's drawing with maybe a box kind of like a window box planter built between them and start adding small rocks (which are plentiful in WV) until the top raises on the existing hinges. When it becomes completely vertical the 2X4 end will contact the bin and act as a stop. I will see if I need to add a rope and pulley to pull the lid back down. The rope could even be used in a convenient notch with a knot in it to serve as a latch (If we don't have any Arkansas racoons come by and figure it out).
The box can be loosely bolted to the 2X4s so it will rotate/pivot as the lid raises and lowers.
I could see where a bucket with a lid and water added as the counterweight would be an easy and very precise way to adjust the weight.
the torque arm of the lid and weight should each reduce as it is lifted. I think you will be able to close it. :sunny: only enough weight to make it easier to lift. still will want some down force or a latch.
Yeah. A single 2X4 with a bucket hung on it would probably do the trick. Instead of a bucket a couple of gallon jugs full of liquid or sand might even be easier.
I kind of like the bucket as it will pivot and remain vertical, and the weight can be added or subtracted, with a lid so the rain does not open the cover and get your trash wet!
Okay, we had a little snow and ice so things started out a little sloppy but the sun sneaked out for a few minutes so I went out to work on my trash box project. I found an appropriate sized short 2X4 and nailed it to the trash box cover using stock 2X2 strips on each side. I like the 2X2s because I can nail through them with a 16d nail from both sides - into the cover and into the pivot beam.
I checked and when opened the cover stays up with the new pivot beam keeping it from opening back and putting more stress on the hinges. I hung a cinder block on the end. It was not enough to open the cover but made it very easy to open so I had an estimate of the weight required.
Next I grabbed a scrap 2X10 ash board out of my stock pile and sawed a scrap 1X10 poplar board and cut it making 2- 1" X 10" X 12" and nailed them to the ash making a big U shape. I cut some scrap 1X4 and nailed them on for sides making an open top box.
I was looking for some wire to hang the box and spotted a broken 1/4" tow cable with a couple of cable clamps on it. I cut the end off, bored a 1/2" hole through one end of the box, bored another hole a few inches from the end of the pivot beam, ran the cable through it and a hole in the other side of the box then added the second cable clamp on the outside to keep the cable from sliding through. I pulled the slack out of the cable, tightened the clamp and cut the excess cable off with a cordless grinder. The box is hung and pivots nicely with good clearance all that is needed is to add small stones until I have the desired weight. I'll have to decide if I want to add enough to simply make it easier to open or to keep it open all the time.
The only cost was a handful of 16D and 12d nails so while the desired result is in place the prime goal of the design committee was not met in this case - spending other members money. ffcheesy
Thanks Doc, et. al.
I've always heard the expression that somebody was as dumb as a box of rocks but this will be the first box of rocks I ever used. smiley_smug01
The bucket is quite close to the ground, how is that going to work when you have three feet of snow? ffcheesy
Its nearly 6" above ground and I figure I'll set it up on 8" cinder blocks and even with the 2x4 frame recessed 4" that should give me 8-10 inches of clearance. Its been a long time since we had 3' of snow and I'm not looking for it any time soon. I guess instead of putting it on cinder blocks I could put it on styrofoam and it could be like a floating dock on a lake. (Maybe snow doesn't work like that?)
make sure to put a cover on that box or it will get filled with everything else.
I figure by the time I get the rocks in it there will not be a lot of space left. Besides, what else would want to be in it? Most of the time it will be hanging 3' above ground. I guess if I balance it properly an Arkansas coon could climb up in it and open the cover. If they do I guess I'll have to install a latch after all. :huh?
Almost time for more chicks. Made a brooder out of a baby swimming pool yesterday.
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Nice idea and nice job on the brooder!
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I just finished off a sewing machine leg table. This one is ERC. I took the legs all apart and wire brushed and sanded all the parts before repainting and re-assembling. That part seems to take more time than finishing the top.
erc table1.jpg
Lots of knots in that ERC but I filled pretty much only small cracks. A few still slipped through, but I am satisfied with it.
erc table2.jpg
I have another I am working on the legs for now, gotta get more paint and I also need some bronze paint to bring the letting back to original. Also, this next set has all the treadle parts with it. I haven't even pulled wood for the top yet. Thinking Sycamore.
Do you have a powder coating place in your area? I take the machines to my local powder coating place. He sandblasts, and paints cheaper than what I can do it myself plus the powder coat is a superior finish. Same price no matter how many parts on the machine.
My friend came up with the idea of adding a small shelf under the top on them. We found folks were buying them to put bookshelf speakers on than they would put the wifi amp on the shelf below out of sight. Adds a few more dollars to the project.
I went out this afternoon and was pleased to find my little tractor and FEL would lift the trash box so that made moving it I went out and placed 4 - 8" square cinder blocks basically where I wanted to put the bin. I put the bin down and had the blocks sitting directly on the recessed bottom. What I discovered was the bin was too heavy and pulled the 2" nails out of the soft poplar. I lifted the bin and put the blocks under the corners and grabbed a hammer from the shed nearby and nailed the bottom boards back in place.
I picked up a few rocks that were in the way anyway till I had enough to counter-balance the cover. I may have to remove a few later as the green lumber dries and gets lighter in weight. Right now you still have to lift but not a lot so my wife can easily do it.
I decided the top was going to be too easy to lift and went back and grabbed a $1 flea market hasp and nail and installed it to keep the lid closed and left an old bent pin in it as a lock.
The two more things I will do it go back and nail 2 1X4 into the sides to reinforce and ensure the bottom boards can't come loose again if the bin shift at one corner. The last is I'll tie a string to the bent pin so it doesn't get lost when someone undoes the latch. My trash collectors are not real diligent about such things. smiley_headscratch
Looks like you have built a perfect bear and coon trap now to wait and see if it works. Be sure the hasp auto locks on the way down. :rocking_in_chair_with_shotgun nice job :thumbsup:
So Howard, you put trash in trash bags then in the box? And the trash man then lifts the bags up and out of the box? Or is the trash in some other type of container?
Trying to visualize this working at my trash pickup spot.
Out township is apparently being "forced" to move to the plastic 95-gal trash tote containers that a trash truck with a pickup arm lifts the containers and dumps the contents into the truck. "Forced" meaning the trash company claims their insurance will no longer allow hiring employees to be on the highway/roads in "harms way" while picking up trash.
That's the way our city trash is picked up here. We need to rent a plastic container monthly from the Trash Company which is picked up an emptied with the truck driver not even getting out of the truck.
Where there use to be the truck driver and two assistants' picking up the trash, now there is only the truck driver that does it all.
21" - it doesn't intentionally self-lock right now but it would not be hard to make it lock when it closes.
BT - our trash is picked up by local contractor and they just require it to be bagged. I have lived in places where we had to use a big "Wheelie Bin" as the Bits used to call them. We'd have to put them by the road on trash day and they had to be facing the correct way and be within a designated distance from the road so the driver could come by and pick them up without ever leaving his truck. Ours is a 2 man operation - those were 1 man operations. As I remember if the driver knocked over a bin he just left it even if it was his fault. Our contractor is pretty much the same and if the helper tears a bag he leaves it where it lays. Out contract specifies they will pick up something like 1-2 old tires per month and maybe one furniture or appliance item like an old sofa, stove or such but we pretty much have to call them ahead of time for the furniture or appliance pick up.
This one is way bigger than it needs to be but is a good prototype and, while I built it for my own use, it gives me one to show a customer if they want one built. I usually compute the BF of lumber used and multiply that by some factor to get a price and maybe add in a special hardware fee.
I see the hinges cost me $6 for the pair, the hasp was $1, They came from a hardware vendor at our local flea market. I used 8 - 2" lag screws and all the rest was 16d, 12d and 10d nails I think. If I were making one for a customer I'd likely use carriage bolts to hold the hinges on for a more professional/neater look/fit. The box for the counterweight was made from short scrap boards. The cable holding it was a broken scrap piece. Other than the lumber I don't have over $20 in hardware and fasteners in it.
I think our biggest trash raider is ravens, they are clever and seem to know their days of the week. It would be interesting to put a tracker on a few.
We did 4 planters recently and I think I had ~$80 in bolts and hardware. You'll be paying full freight for hardware in a pinch.
might add glue to the build and that may solve the nails pulling out with use.
That was a design problem but points out why not to load nails in withdrawal on important stuff. A chicken house ceiling nailed up into green lumber that then dried comes to mind. Nails in that situation lose up to 70% of their pullout strength when the wood dries. Load in shear. That was part of the R&D, reck and destroy stuff we would do in the furniture shop. Easier to do when there is going to be a large run of something than when we are building one off's like a bin or a house but the thinking is the same. Learn and modify the next one.
or screws in the same orientation.
Finished the cart today and it holds everything on wheels.
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Just to show the range of workmanship styles and quality from what 21' just posted I went ahead and built a crate to carry my common fasteners (Nails, screws, bolts, etc) I use for my projects. I mostly store my fasteners in 1.5-2 lb coffee cans and plastic quart size mason jars. I keep the larger fasteners in the cans and the small and less used ones in the jars. Now I have all my common fasteners in one container and can carry them all with me to where I am working or I can take out an individual can or jar if I just need the one item.
I used scrap spruce, poplar and even a piece of buckeye in the build.
I drilled 3 finger holes in the ends of the crate for ease of lifting and discovered from now on I will just drill 2 as I see I mostly lift with my ring and middle fingers.
I keep hardware and old coins in coffee cans also. Each of those containers contains tools and accessories that I 3d printed custom inserts for. Tools must be treated properly and respected for longest life. Here are a couple open.
DJI_20240219084820_0088_Dsm.jpg
Very nice looking set up. I'm still working outside. The little work bench under my crate was attached to an upright on my pole barn, I have a power outlet behind it and a vice clamped to the upright and that is where I do most of my smaller projects. I have a table saw behind it and a drill press and a lunchbox planer on a shelf I drag out and use as needed. A couple of magnetic bars on the back side of the upright hold assorted drill bits, chuck keys, etc.
I finally found pictures of my pkg delivery box. Everytime the delivery drivers came up the driveway they tore it up so I built this and now they all use it.
I started with a 30x42 pallet I got from work. Then I rough framed it with random 2x4's I had laying around, and a random piece of steel roofing. the sides were just some 5/8" pine I had sawn as with the rest of it its all left over stock.
the top is hinged from the bottom so instead of having to lift the lid you just roll it back. I added a drop down flag to it so as soon as the lid moves the flag drops. this took a bit of fine tuning with a few false drops. I have since added reflective orange tape to the flag so it is very visible when it drops.
The front is french cleated and lifts right off so if I have to heavy of a pkg in there.
The box actually works well for also storing the ice melt at the end of the driveway.
The red stuff underneath are the bucket forks I built for my tractor.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/20201214_164332.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352544)
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Even on the bad angle from the hill it still works very well. Even the delivery ppl have commented how nice it is.
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is the flag so you know when you have a pkg?
yes. I have orange tape on the box and on the other side of the flag so it is hidden when the flag is up. That way the orange only shows when the lid has been opened and it can be seen from both sides. At first it wasn't an issue but as the box weathered it was hard to see the flag, especially at night.
EDIT: I did forget to add the the flag is gravity so when the lid is lifted it drops down.
Cru, that is pretty dang slick! I love the design, really smart and functional and the lift off front is a real winner! Nicely done. A very artful design I think. Good on ya!
I put a sign right smack in the middle of my garage showing where packages could be left and another sign pointing at the exact spot. Apparently only 30% of delivery people can read. :huh?
Here's a video about how simple it was to make I just finished. Only one major mess up by measuring once zzzz_smiley.
Slab flattening day. I see more "Whale Tail" tables on my plate. ffcool
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_3972.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352575)
Last year I bought a carbide blade $$$$'s to use only for flattening kiln dried slabs on my sawmill. The blade works perfect, with a smooth enough finish that one pass through my widebelt sander with 120 grit will clean up any left over marks. Far faster than my router bridge plus the sawdust stays outside. Two downsides, I max out at 30" width and it takes about 1/4"-3/8" more wood off the thickness than the router bridge. Since I slab at 2-1/2" the extra wood used is not a problem normally.
A live oak day pantry from Coastal live Oak. A little over 8 feet high.(about:invalid) This image is 90 degrees out and I can't fix it !!!
Pickled ceiling pine and a veneer Mahogony wall. (about:invalid)(about:invalid)
Quote from: tule peak timber on February 29, 2024, 08:25:16 PMPickled ceiling pine and a veneer Mahogony wall.
What's that white stuff at the end of the sink island ffcheesy.
Doesn't look like your style.
I'm seeing weird things in those pantry doors.....animals from not around here amongst other unspeakable things. :wacky:
Just doing some hewing this afternoon. This beam is red oak, 6"x13.25"x 19'. It's for my mom's house that's not finished yet. I'm hewing the face and the bottom side. It will go in the pantry above the cabinets near the ceiling. Originally we were going to use the whole beam, but now after I hew it, sand it, and ammonia fume it to give it more of a long weathered look, we are going to cut the face off the face on the mill to be about 1.5 inches thick, then cut the bottom side the same thickness, then glue them back together as a lighter faux beam. The top edge will be covered by a crown molding.
I haven't hewed in awhile. So I did about half of the face tonight, and my forearms were getting tight so I decided not to overdo it. I was getting in the rhythm though. It's always slow starting when you haven't for awhile, but then the muscle memory kicks in and you get a lot faster.
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Got the face done, now I have to do one of the small adjacent faces.
brad what is the table with the slope and gray metal in the background.
Quote from: doc henderson on March 05, 2024, 06:07:06 PMbrad what is the table with the slope and gray metal in the background.
Looks like metal roofing so my guess is it's a small storage thingy in progress.
Chicken coop
Nope, you're all wrong. It's the upper half of another Catio I'm building. I had to hurry up and build the upper half the last few weeks because the roofing guys were going to be here for several things, among them putting the metal on the roof of my first catio. I wanted to get the roof on this one while they were here.
Here's the bottom half.
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It's 4'x8' footprint. Treated stringers on bottom and I can move it around with the forklift. Once the two halves are together, I'll install the climbing shelves. I'm either adding this onto my existing catio or giving to my sister for her cats. This one is made of cedar, but I'm a little afraid the carpenter bee's might attack it. My first one I made of Ash. Carpenter bees don't bother hardwood. My 5 cats love their catio and use it all the time. I have a double hung window that has a plywood face installed in the lower part with a cat door with a wood tunnel wrapping around the building to the catio. I'll get some pics to post soon. FYI, If you're building a catio, the best caging/screening to use is the black coated 2"x3" mesh from the Lowes garden department. I attach it with stainless wire fence clips that I bought on Amazon.
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Glad I have google to know what a catio is. :wink_2:
cat-ee-o
I was reading cashio!
Kitten coop! smiley_smug01
Unfortunately, I'm familiar with that term. My wife has been asking me for one for a few years now, and I've successfully pushed it off because of other projects.
A few weeks ago she started asking about a 3 seasons room. The location she wants it is horrible because that's the side of the house all the utilities come in. While talking though how it would get built and how she would want it to look she mentioned that she would want a full foundation & concrete floor so no bugs can get in, OK I get that. Then she wants full insulated casement windows so we can actually use is early spring & late fall, well that makes sense also. After that it was if we are going that far we might as well add a mini split to heat and cool it. By now I'm thinking she wants a little more than what I would consider a 3 seasons room. Then she explained how she wants a continuous window sill that's 6-8" wide......that's when it finally clicked. She wants a large catio that she's calling a 3 seasons room.... :uhoh: :uhoh:
It took some smooth talking, but I have successfully tabled that discussion......for now.
So I have been working on this off and on for several months my neighbor helped me and showed me how to pour epoxy I still have the bottom piece to finish up top is 32x60 inches and is mounted on bar height Rite Legs
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That picture from the top looks great too!!!!!
Thanks here is another view.
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Just another stool. The last thing to do before finishing is to put on my makers mark.
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I burn heavy and deep. With my poor handwriting I think it will be evident to the owner a hundred years from now that it was made by a real human....and not a machine. I've used cool stamps and inlays for my maker mark in the past but I think I like this way the best.
Quote from: Larry on March 15, 2024, 10:08:47 PMJust another stool. The last thing to do before finishing is to put on my makers mark.
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I burn heavy and deep. With my poor handwriting I think it will be evident to the owner a hundred years from now that it was made by a real human....and not a machine. I've used cool stamps and inlays for my maker mark in the past but I think I like this way the best.
I could take a picture of that, burn it identical with a laser in a minute and in 100 years it would look the same. That's how so many fakes are out there today :uhoh: .
Hopefully you will post pictures when it is finished.
That's impressive, I did not know......
Just piddling but decided to make a few more crates for future flea market sales and use around here. I found a couple of partially AD 8" tulip poplar boards, planed them smooth then cut them into 12-1/4" lengths, then cut a bunch of 18" long X 3/8" X 2" poplar lath type strips. I tried adding a couple of 1" diameter finger holes in the end of each board. I nailed the strips on to the end boards using 1.5" ring shank (dry wall?) nails and a dab of glue on each end.
Next I decided to make a bench out of my recently cut mystery wood (Elm?) so I cut and planed a 30" LE slab and bored 4 - 1.5" mortises with my auger. I cut 4 legs off of a 7' piece of 9/4 square stock, knocked the corners off on the legs on the table saw set at a 45 degree.
Continuing with my benches, I locked the legs in a vice and cut 3" long X 1.5" tenons, glued and drove them into the mortises, cut the excess off the top with a Japanese pull saw then put he bench on the mill and saw the legs off at 17" for a finished bench. I may add metal wedges to tighten the tenons later but right now they feel tight.
Final response/action was on the mill. Very simple and accurate.
The legs are rigid enough and the band doesn't try to bend or flex the leg?
That is amazing. I cannot believe you never told us about this before! ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Brad,
The legs I'm using are 9/4 square stock made into octagons. I have no problem with flex. Often when I saw through the leftover section of the legs (2-3 inches) will just ride on the band or usually fall of the back. At the workshop last year we made one and Jake made everybody put on their PPE and take cover in case the leg ends turned into shrapnel. ffcheesy Nobody needed to do so but it didn't hurt to be ready.
Doc,
May you discover your grandmother is working at Only Fans the next time you surf the internet! ffcheesy
I've spent the last two weeks developing a ghost silver-grey finish for oak with lots of trial and error. Even more samples from the last few days. It is the same old steel wool and vinegar formula with different carriers, barriers and topcoats for an outdoor table. Close to a hundred total?? I keep notes on the strengths, mixtures, temperatures, and different layers to develop a realistic looking greyed-out look that will have UV protection properties, shed water, red wine and pasta sauce. This has been a very challenging task! Also, a shot of one of the massive oak slabs comprising one of 4 benches around a very large oak table. The table itself is so large, we had to break it into 2 pieces in order to handle it. The one color sample submitted needs to be appealing first shot, first time, and preferably yesterday......ugh. Unfortunately I am not able to deal with the new photo editing software. :( Sorry
no worries. you should consider publishing a book on epoxy and finishes. bet I would buy a copy, preferably autographed! ffcool ffwave ffcheesy :sunny: :thumbsup:
trying again.(about:invalid)(about:invalid)
wow tough work. It looks like distressed crappy wood. congratulations! :wink_2: :usa: :thumbsup:
A shot of the table pieces I'm working with.(about:invalid)
That's what I call a mega slab!
The best color I've found for oak is fuming with industrial strength ammonia. Vary the time exposure to control intensity. I don't like the process due to the hazards of ammonia and the cost/short life of breathing masks.
I've been experimentally lately with a different process. Coating the oak with a baking soda paste does something similar to the wood. To vary the intensity one can pre-coat the wood with black tea which adds tannin to the wood. Also the length of time of the coats makes a difference.
A sample stick.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/IMG_418828129.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353151)
Top is black tea and baking soda. Middle is baking soda and bottom is nothing. All have a top coat of wipe on poly. It was interesting that the top and middle were totally grey until I applied the poly.
MAN. WOW! WOC. all cap three letter words is all I can get out right now! WOW
Larry, that's one of the troubles I'm having applying a topcoat, let alone one with UV resistant properties. The UV additives in topcoats give everything a light purple hue. I have not tried ammonia, but the baking soda shows promise until you use any kind of solvent or water-based topcoat. My approach has been using the iron acetate with a fixer (water based) in the proper ratio as initial colouration, then a barrier coat, then a solvent coat, then light glazing with stains in a fixer coat, then a double topcoat of UV protectant. After this, a light burnishing with scotch brite to remove any luster. Then there is the conditioning of the wood before you even begin, with light wire wheeling, then nylox, then skip sanding so the wood picks up the different chemicals/stains/coatings differently. I think I'm getting pretty close to a silver/grey look that will shed spaghetti sauce and the sun, as well as catch me a buck or two..... ffcheesy
All I can say is click onto that picture!!!
I like it.
I talked to my local outfitter store and he ordered 2 more raised planter boxes and some tomato stakes. He sells plants and garden supplies in the Spring/Summer and I sell and consign him a few items. I have 2 benches back there in the shoe department that get a lot of use for people trying on shoes and boots so it is a win-win for both of us. Anyway I built these 2 copied shamelessly from Bruno IIRC. They are a simple 2' X 4'X 1' box with 3' long farm style legs.
I nail a 1" 4' long sticker on the bottom of each box to hold the bottom boards in and another on top of the 4/4 boards I use for the bottom. It is a great use for my low grade short boards and such.
I'm making a 3'x4' table for our tack room. One side will go up against the wall. I'm using walnut burl pieces from a log I posted about a number of years ago. It's all dried now. I have to fill in the one open space you see, I have a piece picked out but I have to form one side to make it fit in the space properly. Some might remember awhile back I posted a mock up of the table and base from construction lumber.
I'm thinking about pouring a solid black epoxy layer on the bottom about 3/8 to 1/2" thick. And then filling the rest with clear epoxy. I've done quite a lot of smaller scale epoxy stuff, so I'm pretty comfortable with the process. Some of the live edge you see here has a silvery appearance from one side of the log exposed to the sun. I'm going to try a few things to see if I can make the silver go to brown(wheel brush will be the first thing I'll try).
This was the best layout we could come to. Looking for any input from those with some experience, like Tule Timber Peak.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/thumbnail_processed-1F2F8159-1F8E-4B3C-A0D4-C93F4D767DE7.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353258)
Looks good! I'd sure add as many pieces as you could come up with to fill in the large void at least, and maybe some of the smaller voids to keep your epoxy use down. The black background will look great. If you dab just a little unmixed resin on your silver, I think it will go brown on its own. Give it a try first. Another thing you can do is to stabilize the bottom with the black and try leveling off the tops of the various pieces with a router sled and this will also limit the amount of resin you need to cover things up. Oh and another thing if you have any walnut bark left stick it in the voids and have it protrude above your cut off height. Walnut bark that is cut parallel to the side of the tree has really cool character; a lot like snake skin. I use it a lot for inlays and people have no idea what it is. Take a piece of bark and put it on the bandsaw, then wet it and you'll see what I mean.
Keep us apprised of your progress!
Rob
Rob, I think I understand what you're saying - take the tops off the mountains on the furrows of bark, right? I was planning to make a sample pour of the black base and clear pour the rest of the way with some scraps to see what it's going to look like. I can try the bark trick at the same time. I have logs in the yard with bark that have been stacked for at least a year and a half, so the bark will come off easily. I just need to dry it enough. Any trick to drying it? I'd probably lay it on some metal sheets or plywood? and take it to my kiln guy to slip in the kiln?
I'll try the resin on the silver.
I do plan to make sure my gaps are not too big and fill in to reduce my epoxy use. some small pieces I may glue to 1/2" walnut board to raise it up and the board will by hidden in the solid black base layer.
Built a new out feed table for my table saw. I don't have the drawers full yet, but they will be. The open area on the end will house a router lift that still needs to be cut into the top.
Nice table build.
Don't see a riving knife behind that sawblade. Not worried about kickback? I wasn't either until I got a belly full of a kickback, and appreciate the protection of the riving knife.
Now that this elbow is mostly healed and I have no weight restriction imposed by a doctor, its time to get back to woodworking. My business has not made any money in like 5 months, but it seems like I spend money every month. This morning I picked up some bowling lane sections from a customer that they want me to make 4 benches with. They are heavy and there was no way I was taking them off my trailer by myself, so I sawed them into bench size pieces. I used 3 saw blades to cut them due to all the nails in a bowling lane. These benches will have Rite-leg legs on them.
Are these going to be sitting benches or work benches? Assuming sitting benches, they should look pretty slick with the Ritelegs on them.
Benches to sit on. 2 will be 6' long and 2 will be 4' long.
@beenthere I guess I've never operated a saw with a riving knife to know of such a luxury. I suppose they're necessary, but I've never had one.
DWyatt
I didn't have one either, until I rec'd the gut punch. It was quick, sudden, and hurt. Dawned on me real quick what happened and why.
So I right away fab'd up a small piece of metal that bolted right up behind the blade.
Will snap a pic.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/Tablesaw_rive.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353476)
and
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/Table_saw_rive.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353477)
My understanding of a riving knife is that it will go up and down with the blade and follows closely behind the blade. A specialized thing. A splitter is a fixed knife right behind the blade. It looks like BT's is a splitter. I've always believed a splitter would accomplish the same as a riving knife at a lower initial cost.
My saw normally wears a 40 tooth combination blade. I'll rip 3 or 4 boards with it but anymore than that I'll change to a real rip blade with 24 teeth and put my modified splitter in place. The rip blade cuts so much easier than a combo blade and the splitter is added insurance against kickback.
Larry is correct, and thanks for pointing that out. It tilts with the blade, but doesn't raise up with the blade. It attaches to the spot where the floating guard over the saw blade attached on this Rockwell Delta saw. I feel safer being able to see the blade, rather than trying to look through the plastic guard so it was removed.
Better called a splitter. I remove that splitter when running shallow dado cuts.
I added a MicroJig MV splitter to my Powermatic 71 tablesaw
This is a 12" cabinet makers saw I bought many years ago really cheap. it also seems to be pretty unknown.
the issue with adding the splitter is the blade is at the left edge of the insert and there wasn't enough room to put the 2 splitter pieces in the insert
I made some "0" clearance inserts out of baltic birch plywood. they took some adjusting to work reasonably well.
I feel the splitter is a huge improvement in safety as it helps to keep the cut piece next to the fence, I try to use a finger board on the infeed.
I don't have a guard either, because I haven't taken time to build one that will work. I am considering one of the overhead gaurds that several compnys sell
It's been a while for me here. I have been making stuff, just forgetting to post it. I have no rustic benches in stock these days and am trying to get 2 done to have for a show this Saturday. One is a opening cut slab bench I started 4 years ago and never finished (?) so this week I put legs on it and am trying to get the finish done by Friday for packing up. I like having some lower priced benches in the booth the show variety. This one is Ash and has very distinctive galleries as well as mice color on the top. I don't expect it to survive the show. :wink_2:
IMG_20240423_103810489.jpg
Seems like some heartwood got in there too.
IMG_20240424_153304398.jpg
The other is a pine bench with RO legs.
IMG_20240423_103733234.jpg
There is a tad of denim color in it.
IMG_20240424_153233756.jpg
So at least I'm working on something.
I finished a flag case for my cousin who died last year from a medical condition that caused him to be discharged from the Army while he was at west point. I built the case from sycamore that was reclaimed from his barn plus some walnut. I made little spots for casings from the rifle salute and a challenge coin that was given to his parents at the national cemetery. I started a similar case for my dad's flag, cases and coin.
Very nicely done. I like the way you combined the species of woods. It just works really nicely. Never saw the inclusion of the spent rounds, nice idea.
May they both rest in peace with Honor.
Hooo rah! Godspeed.
So, the putter I made and showed off in the post I've linked to below made it through a season. I made a few mistakes and the initial major one was I put a big, oversized grip on it. Too big and too heavy. Well, the league started last night so I wanted to rectify the heavy grip before that happened so I went to replace the grip last weekend. I cut the big grip off and cleaned up the shaft nicely. When I went to put the new grip on I didn't use enough solvent and it wouldn't slide down the shaft more than a few inches before it got stuck. At that point I grabbed the putter head and used it for some leverage to attempt to twist and push the grip on better. No go and I broke the epoxy connection from the putter head to the shaft. Whoops. Next, I went to the store and spent another 30 bucks on a new grip and tried again. This time went a bit better and I was able to regrip it properly and I re-epoxy'd the shaft into the putter head. It wasn't perfect but it was close enough that I thought it'd be ok. It wasn't. I made it through 7 of 9 holes last night when I felt a little click that told me the epoxy had broken loose again. The putter head was attached enough that I could still putt for the next couple holes but by the time I walked off of #9 I was able to easily pull the putter head right off...
I knew I wanted to try a second version but I'm still disappointed. I've learned a few lessons in the meantime and I'll have to see about some different gluing options to keep the putter head attached and squared up to the shaft. A buddy suggested a set screw embedded into the shaft through the putter head and that seems smart.
I guess we'll see. Waa-waaa.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?msg=1978466
Maybe a more flexible epoxy like G flex will be better.
Here is the case for dad. I will finish it the next time I work on it and give it to mom.
439300536_7237384623037377_2753878728201472145_n.jpg
I haven't heard of g flex, I'll look into it, thanks!
I started fresh today and thought about the putter making process a bit more before starting. I went with bubinga again, and I've made huge progress compared to my first attempt.
I wanted to go substantially heavier. The original was 169 grams, and I'm aiming for ~400 grams in the new one. Thusly, I've adjusted the proportion a bit. Below you can see the original size versus the new size, and I'm making the ball grabber cutout shallower (less deep, front to back), giving me more room to jam weight into the front of the putter, you'll see that in a later picture. I aimed for more symmetrical as well but you'll also see that didn't happen. I don't know the right way to really get symmetrical and remove excess wood. My template was a cutout of the shape seen in the drawing, glued to a thin piece of plywood, but I didn't get it cut out perfectly, which didn't help symmetry.
20240427_141535.jpg
The best thing I thought of, this morning, before I started, was to leave the beginning chunk of wood big and blocky and route out the ball grabbing hole like that. I blocked off the space for the router base to go right where I wanted, about 3/8 deep. That gave me the space to use a pattern trim router bit bearing to guide itself around the open hole. Man, this was a life/time saver. If you recall, on my last attempt, I used the drill press as a router and it was terrifying and not very accurate. This cutout was quite precise and only marginally scary (still getting used to routers!). The mistake I made here, just adding a bit of complication, was that I just eyeballed the template tracing onto the wood. I'd had been much smarter to square up the template to the edge, so it was a little tricky making parallel lines and cuts.
20240427_141558.jpg
20240427_141636.jpg
I just got a new, fancy Rikon bandsaw, last weekend, and I put her to some use on this putter head. Man, is it smooth and lovely. I resawed about a half inch off the bottom of the chunk of wood and even though it was maybe 5 or 6 inches thick and the 1/4" blade it still cut through like butter. Already worth the money. I need to spend some more time squaring the bandsaw table to the blade, as the results are off maybe 1/16" from bottom to top of the putter head, but there should be a slight angle to the putter face, so it works out in this instance. I plan to sand out most discrepancies and re-do the face angle anyway. I don't know how anyone has the patience to get good, square tools. My close enough is not good enough.
I've got drum sanding attachments for the drill press, so I've cleaned up the curves to the point we are at below. Next will be the belt sander to square up the bottom and the face. Then I'll drill out a big fat hole in the bottom to chuck about 3/4 of a pound of pennies or something into it for weight. I have fishing weights but I don't think nearly enough.
It's amazing what a previous attempt will teach. I think the original took days to finish and I think this one will be done much, much more safely and only in maybe 10 hours. I could see v3.0 taking 3 hours, knowing what I know now and improving symmetry and the other stuff. Ideally, I'll have this one done by Thursday for my next round of golf.
This is the original and the v2.0.
20240427_141729.jpg
It looks good. for precision I might use a Forstner bit to cut the inside corners, and to bulk out the recess and then trim with bandsaw and with a router using the drum to bring it all up to the line. a drum in a drill press is nice. if it has a nut on the end of the threaded shaft, you can make a cover for the press bed out of wood so you can put a hole in the center for the sanding drum to go into so you sand right down to the bottom. for mine, I routed a relief on the underside, so it fits nice on the bed. I also on my press use the wood base as a backstop/fence so I can quickly drill holes the same distance from a reference edge. I use this making the wine glass holders I give for wedding gifts.
Thanks Doc! Good call on the forstner bit, I think that would help.
I have a 1/2" piece of wood on the drill press table, so yeah, I can get the full depth there.
A fellow a couple miles up the road from me asked me if I would build a old time wooden well curb for him.He has a drilled well with a 58" square concrete pad around it and wants to hide well casing.He said he wasn't in a hurry for it but being I agreed to build it last fall I figured I better get on it.He left the designing up to me and this is what I have so far.Plan on using board and batten siding but don't know whether to use poplar or hemlock.Also going to put roof on and a beam across to mount pulley.Don't really know what to charge but thinking $500 would be a good price and give s me something to use my lumber for.url=https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353604](https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/4714F274-85EA-4C56-AFC5-B297AE60BCAF.jpeg)[/url]
l=https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=353605](https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/EF80421F-2046-4177-8914-C79F2F881DA4.jpeg)[/url]
Maybe not needed but I would add trimmer studs beneath the headers that the roof posts rest on.
After looking at my pictures I see what you mean,Lynn. I will add a couple 2x4s under each post.One thing I have is plenty of lumber.Thanks for the observation.