Max cut width

[Qweaver]

A customer asked me what max width I could cut on my LT 28.  I did not know.  I can measure between the roller mounts...but I don't think I can cut that wide.  He wants to make bar tops and needs to know.  I may also need to edge them which will also make them more narrow.  The Peterson can only get me to 20" with a double cut.

[Andries]

The distance between the rollers is the first number - that'll give you your max width until you cut wide and thick.
Then, the distance from the blade to the top of the throat, and the throat width are your next two sets of numbers.

So, my LT30 has 28" between the guide rollers, and 12.5" from band to top of throat.
Problem is, the throat is 24" wide.
If your customer wants bar tops at about 4" thick, I'd say about 28" wide.
If thicker that that, he may want to find someone with a slabber.

[WV Sawmiller]

Q,

   WM told me it is 23" for LT28 same as my LT35 I cut 23" wide cookies and crotches today. You have to have the log properly positioned and trimmed of excess knots and such but I'd say it is doable. Keep in mind too if log is too wide the customer may be okay with bookmatched pieces he can join for a similar look allowing you to get wide pieces from smaller logs. Good luck.

[4x4American]

So many times I tell people that I can easily make a 24" wide cut, and 28" if I wear my lucky underwear.  Then they show up with a log that's 26" on the small end and 32" on the big end and want it sawn through and through (2 live edge)...if I could just get the log started, maybe I'll be able to force it through the rest of the cut with a sledge hammer :D

[Brucer]

There are a few inches between the side stops and the drive side blade guide. It's possible to carefully shift a large cant over to the left. You need to have some way of lifting above the 3/4" stop blocks and overhanging the left side of the bed rails, but you also have to have a method of keeping it from moving too far to the left.

You can also shift a large log a couple of inches to the left by keeping the side stops below the centerline of the log. Trying to clamp it gets tricky.

Think things through, think about what can happen if the log moves, and if there's any doubt that it will work safely, forget about it.

[Andries]

There are a few inches between the side stops and the drive side blade guide. It's possible to carefully shift a large cant over to the left. You need to have some way of lifting above the 3/4" stop blocks and overhanging the left side of the bed rails, but you also have to have a method of keeping it from moving too far to the left.

Sorta kinda like this . . .

. . . and x2 on this:

Think things through, think about what can happen if the log moves, and if there's any doubt that it will work safely, forget about it.

[Magicman]

 

 
Or this.


 
Or this.

[Sixacresand]

MM, it makes me nervous when The log stops are low and the clamp pushes a big log over them.  A mistake can push the log off the mill.  Best advice I ever got from the forum is to remove the blade and make sure the head and rollers will clear the entire length of the log at the desired elevation.  It is definitely worth the stress and effort

[scleigh]

On a LT28, about the widest you can cut is 25". That's with your lucky underware on, as 4x4 says. :D

[YellowHammer]

Drop the backstops, slide the big dog over like MM and Andries show and get er done.  This is an absolutely essential move to get comfortable with and I rely on it so often I don't hardly think about it anymore.  I notice that he has the toe board up a tad, and that makes it even more dicey.  I push the clamp in from the bottom and sometimes you can get a little reverse English on it to make the log sit neutral, not really even loading the partially raised backdrops, and with almost no pressure.  Make sure you have established the natural roll tendency of the log so that it will be neutrally balanced or have a slight tendency to roll to the right, to the loader arms.  Always raise you loader arms when manipulating a biggun because you want it to roll toward the loader arms, away from the backstops and not into and over the backstop.  Use the loader arms to catch it before it tries to make a getaway.  Get it stable and saw it up. 

Sometimes you will still have room between guides but the log isn't centered and hangs on the the idler or drive roller guide and you're stuck. Before you get out the chainsaw and start whittling, or expend the time and effort to back out, slowly and carefully slide the two plane under the log and "lift and nudge" the whole thing one direction or another to get the extra clearance needed.  Turn your blade off to do this, or bad things can happen.  Do not roll the log with the two plane, just get under it, balance it, lift and nudge it sideways to that the extra inch or so.  Rolling will really trap the band, and put a lot of stress on the head rig.  Once the log has been moved sideways and the guides are clear, then use the two plane under the log to level it flat with the band to remove any binding.  Then, grab the head rig with your arms and back the band up about an inch or so to get the teeth disengaged from the cut, and to get a feel if then band is torqued or bound. It will be obvious if it is, for sure, but if you do the move correctly, just engage the band and let it get up to speed, hopefully with no smoke, and then finish the cut.  No big deal. 8)

[Magicman]

Good stuff YH. 

If you intend to meet your customer's needs then you need to learn how to handle logs that are "too large" for the sawmill, and get comfortable doing it.  Here is the topic where I sawed the 42" Sinker Cypress log shown above:  LINK

[terrifictimbersllc]

Sometimes for quick insurance I put the head down along the log so the mast rails would keep it from going over the side.  Also sometimes mast rails bumping the log limit positioning to the left so mast clearance is a good guide.

I have modified my mill so the hydraulics work anywhere.

Conducive to fast sawing of large logs:
-optimal log positioning so as much as possible can be cut at any log position. Get the chain saw out if it will help finish a cut.
-almost never try to back up in a wide cut
-don't be afraid to pry the log over a bit one way or the other to finish a cut.  78" mega hook handle works well for this, stick the point inside the rear roller weldment bracket (on a WM).  More control than using clamp if it works.
-few or no wasted log positions
-no false moves or mistakes with clamp and turner, which are used together, means always looking at both, don't just start moving them blindly willy nilly.
-use a rope to have helper pull the clamp back  if it wants to get under the log

[paul case]

I find on those big uns it helps to put the flare end toward the saw. That way when you are able to start a cut you usually wont get stuck too bad.

I know you over the road sawyers dont always get to pick but I bet if you could you would put the big end toward the saw!

PC

[Magicman]

Sawing is kinda like life.  You had better know where you are going before you leave home, so you had better know where that saw blade is going before you engage the clutch.

[paul case]

OH,

I was thinking you were going to say.........

It hurts when you run into something metal.

Sometimes bigger isn't always better.

If the women dont find you handsome you better at least be handy.

It is hard to mess up firewood.

The nut dont fall far from the tree, but rotten fruit can be smelled a ways away.

So dance with the one you came in with.

an who could forget....

Life is like a box of chocolates, Ya never know which ones the nuts are.

PC