Roundover bit screw marking wood

[Brad_bb]

So I'm making these dutchmans to fit in some floor joist mortises.  (the floor of the loft was lowered leaving these original mortises exposed- the joists were removed and moved down to the new beams.  So as a decorative dutchman, I'm making these.  The pattern reflects the tile being used elsewhere in the building.

So the problem is that I routered the cross out using a guide bushing and a template I made.  then I wanted to put an 1/8th inch roundover on top of it, which I did, but didn't notice that the screw for the guide bearing was touching the floor and marking it.  The height of the cross is 9/16".  

So is there any common solution to do the 1/8" roundover when the height is limited?  Is there a lower profile screw?  Or a guide pin instead of the beaing with the screw?


 

 

[low_48]

Just grind a little off the end of the bolt. You can use a vise-grips to remove the bolt latter if you want to. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Is that a socket head cap screw on there Brad? You can swap it out for a button head and it should be just fine.

[21incher]

I use the brass piloted bits from MLCS.  They hang down about the same as a bearing but you may be able to grind some off.

[doc henderson]

if you dispense with the bearing and use a solid guide you may get burning or marking of the other contour.  I love my 1/8th inch round over even for rustic.  "elegant" rustic so people do not injury themselves.  the bits also have trouble if the guide surface is undermined like a thinner edge of live edge slab and then we will see a mark from the washer.  how about a thinner "low profile" bearing. not sure they exist.

[21incher]

I have not had a issue with burning. The brass bushing is only 3/16 in diameter so the whole bit is smaller resulting in a slower surface speed of both the cutting and bushing. Just don't stop in one place. 
Another option may be to attach the bearing to the bit permanently with loctite permanent bearing locker ( the green stuff ) just to make a dedicated bit.

[Bruno of NH]

Would a router table work
With the bit 21 has spoken about?

[21incher]

Would a router table work
With the bit 21 has spoken about?

These are the ones I have used https://www.infinitytools.com/brass-pilot-router-bits-1 and they can be used in a table. 

[curved-wood]

Sometimes I use my old 40 years pin router bit when the dimensions are too tight. Sometimes that small difference is enough to get the job done since there is no bearing at the end. Since it is hard steel and not carbide, I am able to sharpen them with a diamond file. I try not to stop because it will burn the wood easily ( I guess that is the idea of the bearing)

[Brad_bb]

Would a router table work
With the bit 21 has spoken about?

These are the ones I have used https://www.infinitytools.com/brass-pilot-router-bits-1 and they can be used in a table.

Just ordered a set.  Thanks.

[21incher]

I'm jealous you are getting the whole set. I only have the 1/8 radius. Started with a MLCS one but that didn't stay sharp very long. The infinity one seems to be made of better carbide  and stays sharp.  If you have a lot of them to make you may find it's not too expensive to have someone with a CNC router  crank them out.

[Brad_bb]

5 more to make.  Originally I was trying to find someone with a CNC.  I wasn't having any luck, but then I realized that I could just do it with a router and template.  Yes it takes a lot longer and you eat a lot more walnut saw dust.