Wood stove chimney costs?

[scgargoyle]

I just built a barn, and plan to live in it while I build the house. I figured on wood heat for the winter, being as how I've got tons of wood around the place, felled and standing. Well, I can buy a wood stove pretty cheap, but the chimney pipe- Aye Chihuahua! When did it get so expensive? Triple wall SS seems to be north of $30 a FOOT. The barn is 27'- you do the math.

What are my options? If I go out through the wall, I'll need a lot of chimney pipe. If I go straight up, I can use mostly single wall, but then I have to go out through the roof. I'd rather not go up on that high roof again, much less cut a hole in it. Can I go most of the way with single wall, then put an elbow out through the wall, or is there a reason I can't have an elbow in the pipe say 20' up? Maybe I'm just shopping at the wrong store for chimney pipe. I do want a code-legal, safe installation, but my pockets are pretty shallow these days- any ideas?

[Raider Bill]

Just my .02 but if possible you always want to go straight up with no bends I believe. 27' is a long way and pricey. I paid $110.00 a 4 ft section back in 08 if I remember right.  Didn't have to go that far only 18' with insulated triple wall.

Also you need to clear the top most roof by 3' for draw within so many feet of the cap.

There also maybe a concern about that much single wall allowing the pipe to cool too much creating creosote?

Do you want to heat the whole barn? Seems like a lot of space to heat uninsulated.

Another thing that comes to mind is that yes there are many cheap wood stoves out there but it maybe a case of spend a bit more for a better stove then reuse it in the new house when it's built?

[SwampDonkey]

I've got close to $600 in 12 feet of double walled stainless stove pipe, so I know where your coming from. But a brick flu isn't cheap either. I'd never stick a stove pipe out through the side of a building for a flu. You want it to go straight up. Now we used 20 feet of single wall for years in potato sheds. The one in memory that dad built had 20 feet of single wall up to the ceiling, then insulated selkirk on up and through the roof another 12 feet I suppose. Used a thermostat controlled fan on the pipe to blow hot air toward the doors. Burnt wood in an old cast iron stove I now use in the shop. The extension stove pipe is real expensive. Regular straight 12" was $51, straight 24" was $83 and 12"-18" extendable was $104. If your getting triple walled for $30 you got a deal chum. ;D

My biggest hassle installing stovepipe is none of these stove stores stock enough stovepipe to actually do a full install. They have a piece here at this place another at some other place, so everything has to be ordered and of course your paying all the shipping. : Of all the thousands of houses that are burning wood, how hard is it to stock stovepipe if your a stove dealer? Plus everyone pushes a different brand of stovepipe and you can't mix and match. Some outfits just plain won't help at all, if it ain't there on the shelf tough. :D

[Troublermaker]

Can you build a chimney on the outside and run the stove pipe into it? Chimney block don't cost that much. You can buy a regular chimney block and cut the hole out for the thimble your self or you can buy one with a precut hole. It would be a lot cheaper than that triple wall SS pipe that you talking about.

[WH_Conley]

I don't see why you couldn't use single wall to the ceiling, if you have a loft that is more SS you would have to have. Straight up is far superior to a jointed flue.

[WDH]

If you have elbows in the stove pipe, it will be a real pain in the pith to clean.  Better to pony up the $ and go straight up.

[Holmes]

Can you plan to reuse the barn install in the new house?  That way you are not wasting any money and maybe saving money buying the  parts now. 

[zopi]

Check the internet outlets...dude came out amd put titanium liner in one of our flues...fifteen hundred for the materials....I watched him do it....the next one was more like seven hundred...ordered the liner from some place online...

Hmm...I know little of the codes...but it seems to me a pallet or so of single flue chimney block and a wall thimble would be the way to go.
I guess I must figure this one out too...plan on adding stoves to my shops, if, amd when.

[scgargoyle]

 I'm just trying to find a way to keep the place above freezing. One thought I had was to build a small, well-insulated room just for sleeping, but now I'm getting worried that the pipes will freeze. I could build the insulted room around the bathroom, but then it would have to be much bigger.

As for a woodstove- I guess straight up is my best option. There is nothing in the way for all 27', assuming I have enough clearance through the trusses (I probably don't have enough clearance for single wall). It's 20' to the bottom of the trusses, minus the height of the stove itself. Then, I need about 7' of triple wall, plus another 3' outside, so at least 10'. I haven't put in a wood stove in about 35 years- I don't remember it being so expensive! I could re-use the materials in the house, but I plan to use one end of the barn as a finished great room, so I'd rather keep the stove and equipment for the barn. I guess I could just wait until springtime to resume building......

[WDH]

That barn will make a killer workshop so that stove will serve well  ;D.

[LeeB]

Cinder block and clay chimney block is a fairly inexpensive way to go. Easy enough to build in a clean out. I plan on doing it for a stove in the basement of my two story house. Will be about 30-35 ft all together.

[Holmes]

  I believe single wall pipe needs 18" clearance from combustibles. Stove pipe for wood stoves should be 24ga.. I'm told you can buy 24 ga. spiral duct in 20' lengths for a reasonable price. That would get you to the ceiling, or you could build the chimney that your great room will need. 

[shelbycharger400]

i did selkirk from the stove up , minus the stove adapter, all in 8 inch, double wall insulated.   on a note on the stove adapter...
my stove is a top exhaust, when i put the adapter in, i droped it in...and put everything in... the black metal celing support... didnt allow pipe to pass through, i was short of 8 inches, so i unbent the 90 deg crimp.   everything else went well, including the metal roof sheild,ect.   started it up,  and smoke slowly came out around the adapter.. next day,  i raised it up myself (all 10 ft) wedged it up with a 6 inch 2x4 , cut the tapered flange off the adapter, then when putting it all back together, the upper 3 ft section. with the rain cap.unscrewed, .i heard it hit the roof... then thump tumble tumble tumble...  SIGH!! ,   *#$# ! 
  Dont forget the 6 bux a peace thin clamps ! , that 4 clamps, would have saved the 180 down the drain.

o..and with my top exhaust.. i used a T, and pointed the cap at the back so i can clean it out after the brush.

[Al_Smith]

Without seing it you might be able to use like 8 feet of triple or double then the lower just straight stove pipe .Maybe 5 feet below the roof and 3 over .

If you keep the stack temp up to 300 I doubt you'd get much creosote .If that concerns you just shut down the stove and rod it out peridically some warmer day but I doubt in one winter it would be a problem .Just don't burn a bunch of pine or wet wood in it .

Besides that 20 some feet of pipe is just that much more radiant surface .

[Al_Smith]

While I'm thinking about it and in case people don't know it most people put the stove pipe in backwards .The pipe should be installed with the external joint up instead of down .Why you ask ? Because if the pipe leaks creosote it will fall back in the pipe not dribble down the outside .They make transition  fittings .

[shelbycharger400]

im with al on that one...single wall puts out heat!
even with the double wall insulated, once stack temp is up.... the pipe is hot to touch but not painfull.  so it radiates too