76 674 international

[HemlockKing]

Anybody owned one of these tractors? Anything to say about them? Looking at one, was curious 

[Patrick NC]

My father had 2 on the farm when I was growing up. 1 gas, 1 diesel. Gasser stayed on the manure spreader as the diesel could be a little hard to start when it was cold. It was fine if you kept the block heater plugged in, but if the cord came unplugged on a day it was below 0° F it was a struggle. Good 60 hp utility tractors. The diesel stayed on the 9' haybine in the summer. It was pretty easy on fuel. Won't set any speed records on the road, but not slow either. English built tractors. Dorchester factory. 

[Gary_C]

I've got a 574 gas with loader that has been a workhorse on the farm for years while milking. Started and run every day winter and summer. We always had the big snow bucket on the loader and it got abused in feed, manure, snow and even dirt work. Never used the pto much as it did not have the power for any pto work we had. It's a little tired right now waiting for an engine overhaul.  Mine had the C-200 cid 4-cyl engine but the 674 may have a 6 cylinder engine. Good utility tractors.

[Patrick NC]

The 674 also has the c200. It's rated at 58 hp

[olcowhand]

I have a '77 574 Diesel that still works pretty hard around here. It doesn't have a Block heater, but it will start even on moderately cold days with a little sniff of Starting Fluid. I really like that tractor; has a FEL on it and can do most of the work I'm doing...
I think there's a pic of it from the rear in my Gallery.
Steve 

[HemlockKing]

The one I’m looking at has a front end loader with a massive front bucket, the bucket could use some work like a new edge. This is diesel and i would certainly be using the block heater through the winter. This tractor has power steering and I’m
Happy about that, it’s rather large and has a cab too so I will half to do some pruning higher up on my trails lol . This tractor would be used for general homesteading and minor forestry work(I want to get a winch for it), unfortunately I couldn’t afford the 4x4 I tractor I wanted. Anything 4x4 I could afford only was 25hp.

[Gary_C]

I used my 574 for some woods work many years ago and it worked well but took a beating from the brush pushing at the landing. It has an underslung muffler and the muffler, radiator and one hose got damaged. Woods work is hard on any tractor loader without the protection packages. I had to build a front protector to shield the radiator from further damage.

[stavebuyer]

A 2wd tractor with chains and loaded tires will pull a lot of logs.  

[mike_belben]

if you can put the wood on a trailer its pretty amazing how much even 
a small tractor can bring out on a decent trail.

[Patrick NC]

The one I'm looking at has a front end loader with a massive front bucket, the bucket could use some work like a new edge. This is diesel and i would certainly be using the block heater through the winter. This tractor has power steering and I'm
Happy about that, it's rather large and has a cab too so I will half to do some pruning higher up on my trails lol . This tractor would be used for general homesteading and minor forestry work(I want to get a winch for it), unfortunately I couldn't afford the 4x4 I tractor I wanted. Anything 4x4 I could afford only was 25hp.

A 25hp 4x4 tractor like my Kubota L2501 will surprise you how much it will do. Mine will lift about 1200# to full height with the front loader and does a good job with a 5' rotary cutter. 

[HemlockKing]

I decided to buy it, put a deposit down, should be here this weekend. I'll upload a a couple picture when it is

[HemlockKing]

if you can put the wood on a trailer its pretty amazing how much ever a small tractor can bring out on a decent trail.

I was thinking a little trailer rigged up with a cable winch lift for tight area one log extractions. But maybe I don't got enough power in my ATVs. The king quad had a really super low 1st gear. On flat ground no problem I figure 

[zippski]

We had a newish (at the time, say late 70's early 80's) IHC 674 with a loader on the farm when I was a young guy. We absolutely worked it to death.  It was a good utility tractor with a tight turning radius and decent handling with the bucket full. The transmissions work pretty well shuttling back and forth although obviously not as good as a new modern power shuttle.

It absolutely will need loaded rears and a good ballast weight on the 3PH to do much maneuvering if you are trying to lift much in the way of logs.  We filled a 55 gallon drum with concrete after we had shoved a cross drawbar through the bottom of the barrel and a short top connector link out the front of the top of the barrel.  That thing is still sitting here gathering rust since we have been running 4WD loaders since the mid-80's.  Oversized front tires were added later.  That helped as well in soft going. 

Many of these units were practically beaten to death on farms, so make sure you have a good mechanic check it out before you pull the trigger.  On the flip side, they are fairly simple to repair and parts are still readily available, both new and used.

Leigh
zippski

[mike_belben]

if you can put the wood on a trailer its pretty amazing how much ever a small tractor can bring out on a decent trail.

I was thinking a little trailer rigged up with a cable winch lift for tight area one log extractions. But maybe I don't got enough power in my ATVs. The king quad had a really super low 1st gear. On flat ground no problem I figure

i have a king quad and work the daylights out of it.  theyre closer to a light duty tractor or maybe a mule than a quad.  problem is air cooled, no fan and full power at full load going turtle speed. youll boil the motor oil and clutches eventually.  mine slipped in every gear from half way through the midrange gears and up until it fragged a centrifugal clutch spring.  just put new centrifuga clutch, friction clutch and springs, gasket, rear brakes, oil filter and air filter in mine for $190 shipped i think.  
theyre too light for a fully loaded forestry trailer imo but you can pull about a half cord at a time in easy ground without burning it up.  ive slide backwards in clay soup on even mild slopes but my tires were getting pretty slick. 
theres a lot of pics of mine in the daily fab thread. 

[HemlockKing]

 

 

[HemlockKing]

It's here 
Time to toy around a little figure it out 

[HemlockKing]

Other than some hydraulic fluids leaking it works good. Seemingly the cylinders aren't leaking it seems to be coming from the hose thread lock nut, will tackle that first, I hate leaks.

[HemlockKing]

if you can put the wood on a trailer its pretty amazing how much ever a small tractor can bring out on a decent trail.

I was thinking a little trailer rigged up with a cable winch lift for tight area one log extractions. But maybe I don't got enough power in my ATVs. The king quad had a really super low 1st gear. On flat ground no problem I figure

i have a king quad and work the daylights out of it.  theyre closer to a light duty tractor or maybe a mule than a quad.  problem is air cooled, no fan and full power at full load going turtle speed. youll boil the motor oil and clutches eventually.  mine slipped in every gear from half way through the midrange gears and up until it fragged a centrifugal clutch spring.  just put new centrifuga clutch, friction clutch and springs, gasket, rear brakes, oil filter and air filter in mine for $190 shipped i think.  
theyre too light for a fully loaded forestry trailer imo but you can pull about a half cord at a time in easy ground without burning it up.  ive slide backwards in clay soup on even mild slopes but my tires were getting pretty slick.
theres a lot of pics of mine in the daily fab thread.

Even if I have problems after a bit of beating it oh well. I got the thing for 250$ the tank leaked bad, came with a extra tank though so I only have time invested into it not cash. I have only drove it around the driveway since and it has been setting in storage. It's a great bike, when I was swapping the tank which involves removing EVERYTHING, I noticed lots of stuff were untouched, lots of the bolts and screws hadn't
Come unfastened since factory, no gasket maker etc, basically good signs. I'm meaning to get some
Good use out of it shortly I just haven't the time yet, I will certainly be looking to the fab thread for the attachments and so on that you made for yours. 

[farmfromkansas]

Had a 986 bought new in '81, the front end needed a zerk lower down on the spindle, and mine wore out the bearings on the bottom.  You might want to check those before you find your front end giving out.  Motor on the 986 was fantastic, easy starting in winter, could just plug in the block heater for a few minutes before firing it up.  Worst thing is the transmission, can't shift without grinding gears. If you don't have the tires loaded already, don't do it.  Add wheel weights instead.  That constant rocking of the liquid back and forth will wear out your rear end, at least that is what the dealer advised. I added some 1100 pound rear weights, bought used from Abilene Machine.

[mike_belben]

Nice ride.  What motor and injection pump?

[mike_belben]

When you put the king quad back together, put a $10 aftermarket fuel petcock.  The vacuum one is trash.  Also delete the fuel pump under the fender.. Just run a line out of the tank to a clear filter to the carb.  Blow in the vent hole to prime it first time and plug the extra carb ports.  Otherwise these notoriously drain the gas into the engine until its full. Youll have a lot of new junk oil to burn that way.


Oh and saw the bolt feet off back of the airbox.  Theyre terrible to get in.  I put a generic starter solenoid on the rack with a lawn battery so i never have to pull plastics again!

[HemlockKing]

Nice ride.  What motor and injection pump?

Diesel. I'm not even sure on the injection pump. I'm gonna be learning a lot about it shortly though lol 

[HemlockKing]

When you put the king quad back together, put a $10 aftermarket fuel petcock.  The vacuum one is trash.  Also delete the fuel pump under the fender.. Just run a line out of the tank to a clear filter to the carb.  Blow in the vent hole to prime it first time and plug the extra carb ports.  Otherwise these notoriously drain the gas into the engine until its full. Youll have a lot of new junk oil to burn that way.


Oh and saw the bolt feet off back of the airbox.  Theyre terrible to get in.  I put a generic starter solenoid on the rack with a lawn battery so i never have to pull plastics again!

Oh it's been together for over a year. I believe when I put it back together I capped the vacuum to the carb and just bypassed it. I remember thinking what in the heck with this contraption, just give me a normal design

[mike_belben]

Keep tabs you arent 'makin oil' in the site glass. 

[HemlockKing]

Looking to change the hydraulic fluid. I can't find a service manual. Is this the drain plug for the hydraulic? And I understand this uses "hy-trans" fluid? I assume the power steering is powered by that too? Thanks anyone who can help . 


 

[thecfarm]

Good luck with the tractor.

[HemlockKing]

Good luck with the tractor.

Thanks c farm. It's exciting. It's my first big piece of machinery. 

[thecfarm]

That looks like a deep bucket. Sure was not used to dig rocks with.  ;D 

[HemlockKing]

That looks like a deep bucket. Sure was not used to dig rocks with.  ;D

It's definitely a big bucket, it needs a bit of work, rusting away in spots, still lots of integrity though, I filled it with stones to fill parts to the woods road so far.

[HemlockKing]

I am needing to do a few hydraulic fitting repairs. It seems fluid from there on the 3 pt and one side of the front end loader. Hopefully just o rings 

[mike_belben]

On SAE fittings it probably is just the O ring. 

[farmfromkansas]

The drain plugs for the hydraulic rear end and trans oil are in the bottom.  Think I had to take about 4 plugs to get it all out of my 986.  And the replacement oil from Case is Hy-Tran, for hydraulic transmission fluid.  I bought my oil from NAPA this spring, they have a yearly oil and filter sale.  You can also use HG fluid from Phillips 66, many other oils, think the cheap oil from some farm supply stores has been sued out of business, got a check from some law firm for 20 bucks from some oil I bought at Orsheln supply to put in my log splitter. Change the filters as well. If you have a Case dealer nearby, they could show you what filters to change, if they are any good.  Went to my Case dealer one time, asked to see the repair manual on my skidsteer, which I bought from them, they would not let me see it.  Haven't bought any more case equipment either.

[HemlockKing]

The drain plugs for the hydraulic rear end and trans oil are in the bottom.  Think I had to take about 4 plugs to get it all out of my 986.  And the replacement oil from Case is Hy-Tran, for hydraulic transmission fluid.  I bought my oil from NAPA this spring, they have a yearly oil and filter sale.  You can also use HG fluid from Phillips 66, many other oils, think the cheap oil from some farm supply stores has been sued out of business, got a check from some law firm for 20 bucks from some oil I bought at Orsheln supply to put in my log splitter. Change the filters as well. If you have a Case dealer nearby, they could show you what filters to change, if they are any good.  Went to my Case dealer one time, asked to see the repair manual on my skidsteer, which I bought from them, they would not let me see it.  Haven't bought any more case equipment either.

Thanks for the info. Nearest dealer is 3 hours away unfortunately. Napa it is. Hopefully they have the hydraulic o rings too. How can they not. Small town Napa store though lol 

[HemlockKing]

For motorcycles and atvs incan usually find a free pdf version service manual but I can't seem to find one for this tractor, I may cave and spend the 30$ for one 

[HemlockKing]

Well I must say, the yellow jackets love the tractor. It was a battle all day with them lol 

[mike_belben]

Dont get raked over coals on the O rings.. Nothing special.  I got charged $13 each on 2 itty bitty generics at case a few year ago.  Coulda bought 1000pcs of the same chicom generics @ HF for that.   Ive used the HF junk on many many hydraulic parts over the years without issue. 

[HemlockKing]

Dont get raked over coals on the O rings.. Nothing special.  I got charged $13 each on 2 itty bitty generics at case a few year ago.  Coulda bought 1000pcs of the same chicom generics @ HF for that.   Ive used the HF junk on many many hydraulic parts over the years without issue.

What is the abbreviation HF? 

[thecfarm]

Harbor Freight. A cheap place to buy tools. Some of the tools are cheap and will break with hard usage, but some OK for only a year usage. I buy black electrical tape and the steel cutting blades for a saw. A great place to buy cotter pins too.

[HemlockKing]

Harbor Freight. A cheap place to buy tools. Some of the tools are cheap and will break with hard usage, but some OK for only a year usage. I buy black electrical tape and the steel cutting blades for a saw. A great place to buy cotter pins too.

Our place of cheap tools is Canadian tire. No HF here. Or princess auto which is my usual 

[HemlockKing]

 

 Got some cross threading action going on here seems to be a culprit too. I assume they sell these fittings at part stores? 

[mike_belben]

Standard plumbing.  National pipe thread.  Unless its on the exhaust side i suggest you use sched 80 or higher. Sch 40 pressure rating isnt terribly high.

The bottom is probably a male SAE O ring to NPT female adapter.

[Gary_C]

Looking to change the hydraulic fluid. I can't find a service manual. Is this the drain plug for the hydraulic? And I understand this uses "hy-trans" fluid? I assume the power steering is powered by that too? Thanks anyone who can help .

Not the drain plug. The fill plug for the entire hydraulic system is the pipe plug in the picture. If you want to drain the entire system you will have to drain all the case drains on the bottom of every case except the engine of course. Yes the hydraulic oil used is Hy Tran and you can check hydraulic oil level with the dipstick along the main case right by where you feet are placed while sitting on the seat.
I would assume you have the D-179 engine which is a 3 cylinder engine. IH did also make a 4 cylinder diesel engine that also fits in that frame so I'm not sure which diesel engine you have. 

[HemlockKing]

Looking to change the hydraulic fluid. I can't find a service manual. Is this the drain plug for the hydraulic? And I understand this uses "hy-trans" fluid? I assume the power steering is powered by that too? Thanks anyone who can help .

Not the drain plug. The fill plug for the entire hydraulic system is the pipe plug in the picture. If you want to drain the entire system you will have to drain all the case drains on the bottom of every case except the engine of course. Yes the hydraulic oil used is Hy Tran and you can check hydraulic oil level with the dipstick along the main case right by where you feet are placed while sitting on the seat.
I would assume you have the D-179 engine which is a 3 cylinder engine. IH did also make a 4 cylinder diesel engine that also fits in that frame so I'm not sure which diesel engine you have.

Is there a specific brand or grade I should use or do I just go to a tractor supply store and say "I need hy trans oil" ? Yes I was aware of the dipstick and fill location, I've been checking it before working it as it's been leaking. I'm reading this takes around 9 gallons of hy trans. I suppose I'll be needing to make a round trip to the tractor store. I'm not even sure which engine oil it would take, rotella t4?

[farmfromkansas]

Be better to go to NAPA than TSC for your hydraulic oil.  And the Rotella will work for engine oil, or just ask the guys at NAPA. Be sure to change your hydraulic filter.  There is a filter on the engine for coolant, change that as well, helps to protect your engine from electralysis.

[HemlockKing]

I need a couple hydraulic hoses too I'm thinking so I'll half to call if Napa sells those I'm not even sure. A few the rubber is sun baked and cracked although not leaking, I still wanna get anything that might need fixing in the near future, fixed. There is also a loader arm pin I need as someone has just used a grade 8 5/8 bolt on one side. It appears all the pivot points have not been greased in god knows how long. The bucket is rusting through just before the edge so I may need to cut some of the bucket out and replace or just have it shorter since massive anyway. The insert at one of the bucket cylinders is leaking too and it appears someone put some kind of silicone sealant on the threads because they were battling leaking, I hope the cylinder doesn't need replacing. Also another leak close but it's a fitting so I think that isn't a big deal, a leak from the power steering too, hopefully hose or fitting related and not seal.

[mike_belben]

Welcome to the old iron club. 

[HemlockKing]

I need more

[Thomasjw4]

I feel your pain on the old IH's.  I rebuilt a 384 this winter and am still tracking down fuel issues.  

[mike_belben]

I just said to my son today... When something breaks literally every single day that you get out of bed, youve got enough equipment. 

[DbltreeBelgians]

Looking to change the hydraulic fluid. I can't find a service manual. Is this the drain plug for the hydraulic? And I understand this uses "hy-trans" fluid? I assume the power steering is powered by that too? Thanks anyone who can help .

Like others said the drain plugs are on the bottom of the gearboxes. The square pipe plug in the upper left corner of your picture is the hydraulic fill. Like Gary C said the dipstick should be behind your left heal along side the gearbox and the left running board. What you're finger is on in the picture should look like a brake bleeder and that is exactly what it is. Each side has one for each brake. I have a 574 gas with Dunham loader. Been a great tractor but the diesel would be much better. They had a D-239 4 cylinder in them. The power steering works off of the hydraulic system as do the brakes. There is a process for bleeding the brakes requiring you to pinch off a rubber return line in what they call the "keep fill line". Not a bad job once you've done it a few times. Don't ask me how I know this. Don't ever forget to release the parking brake before driving away. It will burn and leave burnt particles in the hydraulic fluid and plug the hydraulic filter. Don't ask how I know this either. These tractor like clean Hy-Tran and filters.
More questions, just ask. Lots of knowledge base here on the forum and all willing to help.
Here's a pic of my 574.

Brent

[olcowhand]

X 2 what Brent said, and don't try generic Hydraulic Fluid (don't ask.....). I have a Service Manual and will look up anything you need details for.
Steve

[HemlockKing]

Thanks everyone, I’m feeling pretty confident about this as I got all this good help here. I have bought the service manual online and will be printing it for a binder, so I should be good on that aspect now, I have yet to even pick up a wrench yet but come this weekend or next week I’m gonna get er done. Just been swamped busy. Haven’t even started the tractor in the last 2 days.

[HemlockKing]

 

 Does anyone know what this light is? The dash is faded/I Can't make out any symbols. This light comes on after a couple minutes of warming up, there is another that lights up as soon as it's started and disappears when rpm is raised above 1k, it's on the left of the light in the picture. Thanks for any help. Today was the first day I even started it in 2 weeks, just been busy. I did manage to get the full service manual printed out though. 

[mike_belben]

I will guess on the one that goes out at 1k being the charge lamp.  Engine off key on it would be lit.  Then when you have it spinning fast enough to kick on the field voltage itll go out as a charge comes in to the battery and both legs of the bulb become positive.  No electron flow, no light.