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Useful sawmill mods

Started by Bibbyman, July 25, 2004, 08:27:09 AM

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Magicman

I removed a section of the top (larger) part and then fitted it inside of the bottom.  You can see where I cut slots for the handle, and then riveted it together.  Of course, then the top no longer fitted, hence the black top from a smaller can.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bandmill Bandit

Another mod/addition under way.



 



 



 

As you can see no welding done yet as i am still in design stage. Want to make it so that it goes off and on in about 5 seconds or less.

Thinking drilling right through the clamp where I now have the 3/8ths by 3/4 inch bolts holding the little tabs in place so I can use a pin to told it in place that will slide in and out easily.

Any comments or Ideas?
That stuff is a hard drill but good bits and lot of water worked well to get the 2 holes drilled about and inch deep on each side in about 15 minutes.   
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Bibbyman

Looks like it may be a tad aggressive for clamping a cant.  Might "bite off" a chunk.  Have you tried it yet?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Magicman

I have never seen/had the need for such, but if you do it certainly should work.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

LeeB

Looks like it wood be good for clamping small diameter stuff. I need to do some small cedars and it looks good for that.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Bandmill Bandit

Quote from: Bibbyman on December 04, 2011, 03:28:01 AM
Looks like it may be a tad aggressive for clamping a cant.  Might "bite off" a chunk.  Have you tried it yet?

Hey Bibbyman

Thanks for the response. No I havent tried it yet as it is in the design process. I have only bolted the 2 tabs to the clamp and have a piece of 3/16 flat stock stuck in between the 2 pieces that I intend weld in the there.

The question I am contemplating is whether or not to increase the thickness of that piece.

This one will be for use on fresh log with bark still on so I want it to be quite agressive.

I am thinking of making it reversible with 2 or 3 smaller saw type teeth about 1/4 in deep.

Its a work in progress at this point and I want it to be as practical as possible and easy to swap.

May end up with 2 separate pieces as that piece across between the 2 tabs is a fairly important piece to ensure that the clamping pressure remains on the face of the clamp and not on the bolts. The bolts may be a temporary fastening method as I want to be able to make it so I can pull a pin to remove and reinstall quickly.

My ultimate goal is to end up with 3 clamping surfaces and have them very easily and quick to inter change so that it INCREASES out put not decreases it.

I am thinking of drilling the hole all the way through the clamp so that  pin will slide through to hold the clamp pieces in place.

Any additional ideas and comments are welcome.     
   
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

pineywoods

Looks a lot like my home-made turner/clamp. Yes, you can in fact poke holes in the side of a cant, but that's an operator problem  ;D
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Peter Drouin

I put two fangs on my clamp by using the wirefeed then file them down. works good I can even pull the cant down a little if I have to, but be careful not to rip two lines down the side of the cant. just have pull away first :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

customsawyer

I have the same question as some of the others. I am not sure I understand the need for this mod. Can you please explain what you plan to gain from this.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Peter Drouin

Customsawyer , sometimes if the bark is loose and the log will want to turn on me the fangs will hold it. or pull off the bark and clamp it , I would show you a pic but my file is to big :D :D im in error :D I can;t seem to post a pic, it;s in my gallery, ill keep trying :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

beenthere

Pete
Just copy the info in the box below your pic in the gallery and paste in your post like this

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

customsawyer

Peter I am not trying to question you just trying to understand.
What size logs are you milling that you need this mod on and what kind of log is it.
I cut some pine logs that have thicker bark that when it has dried a bit the bark will slip very bad but I haven't had on try to turn on me unless it was 8" dia. or less. I try not to mill this small of a log for several but this is one of them. If I do have to mill logs this small I usually cut 2 or more logs at a time so your mod would not help to hold the inside log.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Saturday night I sat down on my couch and read every post in this thread. It took me a little over 3 hours and  45 minutes.
I am very impressed with the ideas you fellows and gals came up with! The pictures were great when needed. If anyone hasn't read 'em all.....DO IT!

I wish they were all in a book...but now we have a computer.

Thanks for the ideas. smiley_applause
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Peter Drouin

 

  thanks for info customsawer. not somuch small logs old w pine the 

  

  canbium layer is slippery like ice and the clamp fills up with the slime and slips. all so when im cutting hemlock and hit a knot the cant will lift sometimes if the back stops are to low. I have hit them with the blade :D :D so I keep them on the low side :D. sometimes cutting r oak and I get down to the last cuple of cuts I reposition the clamp the thing will pop up  :o the fangs will pull it back down ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

Is there such thing as a "picture echo"  ???    :D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bandmill Bandit

Yes Peter

Exactly the reason for my mod in process. Small poplar and western birch and a few others that like to pop/slip up before/while you are opening the log. That the reason I want to be able to remove quickly. As a rule only need it on the first 2 some times 3 cuts depending on the log and how you open the it.

I have had Poplar and Birch pop up during a cut and that is very annoying.


Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Peter Drouin

 :D :D :D ya MM sometimes I don;t do so good with the computer  :D :D I saw logs better :D :D

  

   :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Peter Drouin

In 08 when I gut this mill, It gut a seat with it  :D. but the seat is black and boy is hot on your but in the sun :o :o. so with some junk I had around I made this.

  and it slids in to a pice of 2" chanel welded to the bottom of the seat ,

  

  

  I use it when im on a job and the sun is out , and keeps my but cool :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

Yup, the only thing better than a seat is a seat with an umbrella on it.   smiley_thumbsup


 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

paul case

I am guessing ya don't use the umberella under the building?  PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Peter Drouin

 :D :D :D :D No It;s that I had the camera with me the outher day , so I thought you all  would like to see how I did it  :D :D maybe it will help :)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Brucer

I tried something like that once. Big windstorm blew up and next thing I new the umbrella was floating on the breeze -- out over the highway that ran through a cut below my milling site.

I didn't hear any squealing brakes, but I didn't find the umbrella either ???.

Some things weren't meant to be :(
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: Brucer on December 14, 2011, 12:28:11 AM
I tried something like that once. Big windstorm blew up and next thing I new the umbrella was floating on the breeze -- out over the highway that ran through a cut below my milling site.

I didn't hear any squealing brakes, but I didn't find the umbrella either ???.

Some things weren't meant to be :(

Seems like a pin through the mounting bracket and umbrella shaft would have prevented that problem...

Herb

Brucer

That was plan B.

Just so's you know, when the wind pops the umbrella upside down, it's just never the same again :(.

Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

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