Beam Saw

[TimW]

I bought me a 16-5/16 in. Magnesium Super SAWSQUATCH (SS) Worm Drive Saw. 16-5/16 In. Magnesium Super SAWSQUATCH? Worm Drive Saw

It was back ordered for November 9th.  It showed up today. 

Now, I found a 16 in. Worm Drive SAWSQUTCH Carpentry Chainsaw. 16 In. Worm Drive SAWSQUATCH? Carpentry Chainsaw

It weighs 18 pounds, where the SS weighs 27 pounds and is way huge and kinda bulky awkward looking. 

I will be cutting 6 inch cants and I am thinking now I should return the SS and get the 16 in. chainsaw.

Has anyone used these saws?  I really would like some input from Y'all.

[zinc oxide]

Good morning and... Holy cow!

Thank you, I didn't even know the company made a beam saw. What I don't know would fill several libraries at Alexandria.

 A complete neophyte to timber framing, but I feel that 90% of a 'professional' result in any endeavor is having the proper tool, the other 10% is learning/knowing how to use it.

 'found money'... So I got the 16 5/16 circular saw in question, after some cursory research.

Finally got a chance to play...@#%!... Sorry, I meant to say... work with it.  I had never run a hypoid drive saw, (I think that's what it's called) of any size, Slightly different than what I was use to feeling with the standard circular saw, direct drive.

 2, 3, 4, and one five and 1/2" by 16-18" cherry, and a few red oak of the same basic dimensions, 3 1/2 inches being the largest oak.

Having nothing to compare it to, I was very happy with the cut quality and the general 'feel' of the tool. I didn't find any 'quick start' guides in the box, figured it was a circular saw. I did reference several of the 'native West Virginian' directions, (pictures) and safety symbols, there is somewhat of a 'kick' on startup even when the table is resting on the cutting surface. Must have some kind of mechanical/centrifugal braking system, blade stopped really quick when you release the trigger, so I didn't have to deal with the gyroscope effect that I read about somewhere.

It felt the best in my hands with the auxiliary handle in the lower hole near the front of the table. I don't know how to describe it, but it cuts at one speed regardless of the thickness of the board to my sense of feel/hearing, partially rotten wood being the only impediment... Slightly 'gummy' feeling/sawdust discharge. Some idiot left the crotch on the cherry facing up after he rolled it up the hill and put it up on cribbing, two years before he got a sawmill... Three years ago.

I think the list price is around $90 for a replacement OEM 32 tooth blade, but I found a tool store extraordinaire in Columbiana Ohio who beats the prices of Internet, and through hearsay, a renowned sharpening service less than 30 miles from my location.

I very seldom 'freehand' anything, almost always use a straight edge of some sort. Not a carpenter, or anything really, ... But I am drawn to straight, square, level and plumb. Can't say that I ever achieved it, but the concepts are appealing.

Also stacked two 3" of each species for a single cut, didn't really notice any difference, hence the reference to it cutting at one speed, can't adequately describe it. VERY Smooth cutting/feeling.

The clip-on plastic base seemed suspect/cheap at first blush, but I now feel was a master stroke of  design/engineering. Very handy to have nearby to rest the tool in securely, Can't rust. everything seems quite well-made and heavy-duty, including the base.

 Thanks again for turning me onto the beam saw, gonna have to look for some more money. God willing, I will have a chicken coop before I depart this earth.  always wanted to be a farmer... You know the old saw... 'Outstanding in your field'.

Previous bad experience with chickens, didn't know any better.

I thought I had planted them too deep, or too close together.   

[Magicman]

That is a huge weight difference.  I believe that @tule peak timber has some experience with a Carpentry Chainsaw.

[tule peak timber]

My experience with a beam saw !

 

[Nebraska]

 Not quit as a bad as a picture of "toes" but getting close.   

[tule peak timber]

Kick back from the new beam saw. Case in point is plan your cut BEFORE you start. Rob

[TimW]

That is a huge weight difference.  I believe that @tule peak timber has some experience with a Carpentry Chainsaw.

That weight in motion, via kickback, is what I am concerned about.  The Carpentry Chainsaw seems that it would be more versatile, being able to cut more options, like 45 degrees thru 8 & 3/4 inch thick.

[TimW]

My experience with a beam saw !

Did the Super SAWSQUATCH do that, or the Carpentry Chainsaw??  How fast does the blade or chain stop when you release the switch?

[Don P]

A lot depends on the quality of cut needed. I have the older school stuff, a Makita 16" circle saw and a Milwaukee wormdrive with a Prazi beam chainsaw attachment. I'll grab the Makita if it'll make the cut and only use the Prazi if I have to, its a much coarser finish. I guess one advantage of the big Makita is it doesn't have the power to kick that hard.

[TimW]

A lot depends on the quality of cut needed. I have the older school stuff, a Makita 16" circle saw and a Milwaukee wormdrive with a Prazi beam chainsaw attachment. I'll grab the Makita if it'll make the cut and only use the Prazi if I have to, its a much coarser finish. I guess one advantage of the big Makita is it doesn't have the power to kick that hard.

Thanks Don.  I do want a finish cut on it.  I will just be cutting the ends of 6x6 cants square.  So guess I got the right saw after all.  I will feel better about it when I make a few cuts.  Still reading the manual right now.
        

[Edvantage]

I was debating the sawsquatch saw. I ended up bolting 2 pieces saluminum angle to the bar on my milwaukee cordless chainsaw. It works awesome. Used a 12" speed square clamped to workpiece for guide.  

 

[Old Greenhorn]

A lot depends on the quality of cut needed. I have the older school stuff, a Makita 16" circle saw and a Milwaukee wormdrive with a Prazi beam chainsaw attachment. I'll grab the Makita if it'll make the cut and only use the Prazi if I have to, its a much coarser finish. I guess one advantage of the big Makita is it doesn't have the power to kick that hard.

Thanks Don.  I do want a finish cut on it.  I will just be cutting the ends of 6x6 cants square.  So guess I got the right saw after all.  I will feel better about it when I make a few cuts.  Still reading the manual right now.
         hugs,  Brandi

I borrowed a friends Makita/16 to cut a bunch of 6x8's in Maple and RO and I have to say it left a beautiful surface. I'd love to have one of those.

[tule peak timber]

I was debating the sawsquatch saw. I ended up bolting 2 pieces saluminum angle to the bar on my milwaukee cordless chainsaw. It works awesome. Used a 12" speed square clamped to workpiece for guide.  

A lot of love in that build. Nice pic !

[Tom King]

After having a Makita for over 35 years, I finally found a blade for it that I like.  The Oshlun blade is not so terribly expensive, and cuts like the highest quality blade on a good cabinet saw.  I forget what it cost, but Google 16-5/16" Oshlun blade.

I made compound cuts with it that were not only straight, and the perfect angle, but the cut surface looked like it had been planed. That was without any kind of guide, but I've made millions of cuts with regular circular saws.

[Ljohnsaw]

Tom, On that Oshlun blade, did you get the 32 or 60 tooth blade?

[Tom King]

I'll have to look.  It's been several years since I've used it.  I'll let you know in a day or so-don't know if I'll be going to that shop tomorrow.

[YellowHammer]

Thats pretty coincidental, I prefer the Oshlun blades myself for my straight line rip saw, and get them off Amazon.  I've tried several different brands and styles, but the best I've used so far are these, even better than the stock blade that came with the saw, and the Oshlun's are less than half the price of the others.

Here's the one I took off yesterday, its been run a little too long, and this was its third sharpening, but I'll get it sharpened again and put it back in service.



 

[Sedgehammer]

My experience with a beam saw !

WoW! Your stomach really swelled up.....

[tule peak timber]

That is belly fat.
   The beam saw is not my friend. At the same time I bought a portable bandsaw and a chain mortiser to throw up a quick building. I love the bandsaw and mortiser while the Makita beam saw remains parked. The kickback was totally my fault for not supporting the fall-off, not the saws fault.Nut behind the wheel deal........ :

[Don P]

Well I'll take back my previous comment, the Makita has more guts than I give it credit for  :D

Bindian, I think I remember you had foot trouble. My big operator error with that saw was having my tennis shoe clad foot under the offcut when not paying attention. I wear an H wide boot now, tree frogged that poor thing.

[TimW]

Well I'll take back my previous comment, the Makita has more guts than I give it credit for  :D

Bindian, I think I remember you had foot trouble. My big operator error with that saw was having my tennis shoe clad foot under the offcut when not paying attention. I wear an H wide boot now, tree frogged that poor thing.

Yeah I had foot surgery on both feet.  Feel great now.  I did have to buy an expensive ($150) pair of Hoka one one shoes (super comfy running type shoes) to wear around the hangar.  Lots of guys at work have two pairs, one for work and one for leisure wear.
  My feet couldn't handle the work boots on concrete more than two hours.  Wore the shoes until the day I retired.  I wear the work boots all the time I am not on concrete.  I feel naked if I am not in my work boots.

[TimW]

I was debating the sawsquatch saw. I ended up bolting 2 pieces saluminum angle to the bar on my milwaukee cordless chainsaw. It works awesome. Used a 12" speed square clamped to workpiece for guide. 

The guy I am patterning my log house after welded up a C channel to fit the 6 inch cants and welded up a bolt on it to act as a pivot and drilled a hole in his saw chain saw blade.  He said it worked great.  But I am thinking I want a better finished cut.

See if I got this right.............you bolted two angles to each side of your bar (notched out for the chain?) and just sit that up against a speed square to make your square cuts?  How long were the angles?

[TimW]

Good morning and... Holy cow!

Thank you, I didn't even know the company made a beam saw. What I don't know would fill several libraries at Alexandria.

 A complete neophyte to timber framing, but I feel that 90% of a 'professional' result in any endeavor is having the proper tool, the other 10% is learning/knowing how to use it.

 'found money'... So I got the 16 5/16 circular saw in question, after some cursory research.

Finally got a chance to play...@#%!... Sorry, I meant to say... work with it.  I had never run a hypoid drive saw, (I think that's what it's called) of any size, Slightly different than what I was use to feeling with the standard circular saw, direct drive.

 2, 3, 4, and one five and 1/2" by 16-18" cherry, and a few red oak of the same basic dimensions, 3 1/2 inches being the largest oak.

Having nothing to compare it to, I was very happy with the cut quality and the general 'feel' of the tool. I didn't find any 'quick start' guides in the box, figured it was a circular saw. I did reference several of the 'native West Virginian' directions, (pictures) and safety symbols, there is somewhat of a 'kick' on startup even when the table is resting on the cutting surface. Must have some kind of mechanical/centrifugal braking system, blade stopped really quick when you release the trigger, so I didn't have to deal with the gyroscope effect that I read about somewhere.

It felt the best in my hands with the auxiliary handle in the lower hole near the front of the table. I don't know how to describe it, but it cuts at one speed regardless of the thickness of the board to my sense of feel/hearing, partially rotten wood being the only impediment... Slightly 'gummy' feeling/sawdust discharge. Some idiot left the crotch on the cherry facing up after he rolled it up the hill and put it up on cribbing, two years before he got a sawmill... Three years ago.

I think the list price is around $90 for a replacement OEM 32 tooth blade, but I found a tool store extraordinaire in Columbiana Ohio who beats the prices of Internet, and through hearsay, a renowned sharpening service less than 30 miles from my location.

I very seldom 'freehand' anything, almost always use a straight edge of some sort. Not a carpenter, or anything really, ... But I am drawn to straight, square, level and plumb. Can't say that I ever achieved it, but the concepts are appealing.

Also stacked two 3" of each species for a single cut, didn't really notice any difference, hence the reference to it cutting at one speed, can't adequately describe it. VERY Smooth cutting/feeling.

The clip-on plastic base seemed suspect/cheap at first blush, but I now feel was a master stroke of  design/engineering. Very handy to have nearby to rest the tool in securely, Can't rust. everything seems quite well-made and heavy-duty, including the base.

 Thanks again for turning me onto the beam saw, gonna have to look for some more money. God willing, I will have a chicken coop before I depart this earth.  always wanted to be a farmer... You know the old saw... 'Outstanding in your field'.

Previous bad experience with chickens, didn't know any better.

I thought I had planted them too deep, or too close together. 

Let me see if I understand you right.  You are using a beam saw and gonna build a chicken coop?

[TimW]

That is belly fat.
  The beam saw is not my friend. At the same time I bought a portable bandsaw and a chain mortiser to throw up a quick building. I love the bandsaw and mortiser while the Makita beam saw remains parked. The kickback was totally my fault for not supporting the fall-off, not the saws fault.Nut behind the wheel deal........ :

Do you have any photos of the portable bandsaw?  Only ones I ever saw were more like a powered hacksaw.

[tule peak timber]

Here is a pic of the saw. The owner at Timberwolf Tools claimed that of all the tools he sold me the portable BS would become my favorite- and he was right. I'm new to this timber framing technique and want to thank Don P again for his advise on my first try.