iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Clark 666b, no brakes

Started by CP1991, December 10, 2015, 09:51:18 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

CP1991

Hi y'all I'm new here,
I have a Clark 666B skidder. I have put a new master cylinder, wheel cylinder and brakes andit still will not stop. Any suggestions for fixing the brakes??
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

oldseabee

A little more information. The master cylinder, single stage or two stage? There was two types used. Do you have pedal or does it just bottom out, hard to bleed completely. Is it drum system or disc? If it is drum type, has it been run with the parking brake on, if so the high heat could have expanded the drum.

CP1991

Sorry I'm replying so late had to go Christmas shopping with the wife.  It has a single stage master cylinder don't remember the part number but it was hard to get had to order it online. It is a drum on the drive shaft set up can't get no pedal to speak of was really hard to bleed. We tried to adjust brakes but no adjusters that we could find drum seems ok no cracks.I've considered trying to fabricate a disc set up not sure how it will work. I just bought the machine bout a month ago never seen a brake on the drive line except for parking .
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

oldseabee

First the brake is self adjusting. Next, check the pedal free play before the master cylinder shows any resistance should be 3/4" inch. Because the brake is self adjusting, it can take some time to bleed because until the brake shoes bottom out against the drum you can't get enough pressure in the system to get the master cylinder into full fluid flow to get a proper bleed. A power bleeder works the best if you can locate one, some brake shops will rent one.
The original master cylinders were made by Mico, they also made two phase master cylinders that pushed out a lot of fluid at low pressure to get the brake shoes bottomed out quickly then switch to high pressure for application.

CP1991

Thanks o ldseabee I've seen ur replys and posts on Clark s kidders u shure no ur stuff. I checked the free play it had none adjust till got 3/4 bought a vacuum bleeder just for this project got some brakes on it. Either my skidder driver rode the brakes too much and got them hot or thay were dragging but he got hung up on a stump I went to drive it out let it roll back to strattle stump and it died pushed pedal and held for a second then went to floor skidder ran bout 10 yards hit a 12 inch dbh cherry uprooted it and I saw it was time to jump. Blade was down and skidder stopped on cherry root wad we pulled it out to the log deck and it will be parked till it has good brakes.  What ur opinion on putting a disc and 2 calipers instead of the drum thanks again
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

oldseabee

666B offered a disc brake setup as an option. Go to allied systems.com do a manual search for parts manual. They offer free down load of manuals. They also carry a lot of Ranger parts with crossover from Clark part numbers to Allied numbers. They also offer parts help on the phone.

CP1991

Thanks a lot you have been very helpful if u don't mind me asking did u work for Clark or just use Clark s kidders? The 666b seems to be a great skidder very powerful the only thing wrong with it is brakes in your opinion is the disc better?
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

oldseabee

I did work for Clark, then they changed to VME with a merger with Volvo. 26 years all together both in the factory, Eng. Lab, then field service.
The disc brake cost extra, so most customers didn't order it, but it was a much better system in my opinion, drums were bad to get full of trash.

CP1991

Alright disc it is everybody around here said watch the drum it will catch fire. Two other people looked at this skidder and didn't buy it because of the brakes. I payed $4000 for it and the brakes is the only thing wrong with it. I also have a Clark 662 with a 353 bout to go did thay put anything else in them like a dutz or Cummins
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

oldseabee

They did offer a Ford 2701-E but I never saw one, back in the day 353 was the engine of choice, cheap to run, good power as long as you kept your foot in it. I guess you could repower it but 353 was a good match.

CP1991

I have access to a 453 Detroit I measure it today will have to move radiator forward some. 353 and 453 will interchange right ? As long as they turn same way don't know much about them need to learn tho have three of them 2 353s and a 453 the 453 is a powerhouse besides the 353
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

oldseabee

The 453 will have quite a bit more power, the 666 had a  453N (no turbo) and a c273 converter, but a different transmission (2420 2 speed with a work and travel range) you have a c272 converter. Biggest worry is the axles, you have to be careful that you don't wring off axle shafts or have planetary problems. The transmission has some different ratios but is basically the same as in the 667 (3 speed). The difference in the converters is c273 has 13" members which can stand more torque then the c272. Not sure if that will be a problem, probably not.
You may have overheating problems in the warm weather, the 662 has a smaller radiator.

CP1991

Tried the allied system parts take two weeks to get here. On day two of fabrication of disc brakes should b done tomorrow evening a lot of fabrication n guess work involved all factory parts would be great but can't wait two weeks I'm already a week behind.  Ill probably be cussing myself if this don't work I've got a machine shop and a welding shop at my disposal I hope ill b skidding logs hard by Saturday ill let everyone know how the brakes do and what I did to get them to work
Clark 666b Clark 662 Chevy c60 prentce g husky 390's

Rustynut123

Quote from: oldseabee on December 11, 2015, 10:10:56 PM
First the brake is self adjusting. Next, check the pedal free play before the master cylinder shows any resistance should be 3/4" inch. Because the brake is self adjusting, it can take some time to bleed because until the brake shoes bottom out against the drum you can't get enough pressure in the system to get the master cylinder into full fluid flow to get a proper bleed. A power bleeder works the best if you can locate one, some brake shops will rent one.
The original master cylinders were made by Mico, they also made two phase master cylinders that pushed out a lot of fluid at low pressure to get the brake shoes bottomed out quickly then switch to high pressure for application.
Any chance your could share some info on the mid mounted enclosed brake system in the 666C the one I'm working on has a internal leak in the assembly. And I can't seem to find a service manual on the thing

Iwawoodwork

The 666 Ranger that I operated for a couple years around 1971-73 came with a very loud 4-53, only had a spark arrestor for muffler. I don't recall breaking axles but did have issues with breaking off the planetary cover bolts.  That was probably due  to the nut behind the wheel (me) as on big logs I would winch till the front tires were off the ground then drop and catch the machine trying to get the log up against the machine where I might be able to pull it. Very hard on the rear end and frame (cracks) was young and "geter done" mentality. Was working for Weyco out of Coos Bay,Or in old growth fir and most logs were 40's.  I think it was one heck of a machine considering the size  of wood it was used in.

Thank You Sponsors!