A "cut long" challenge, and a solution.

[Nomad]

     I was asked if I could resaw some long beams on my LT50.  26' to 34' long. 
     The catch is that these are 200 year old, hand-hewn beams.  There's nothing straight or flat about them for a reference and a good, flat surface was required from the cut.
     My solution was to get 4 2x4s 16' long.  I skimmed one edge to make a good, straight surface.  I then screwed 'em to the timbers, overhanging one edge, to create a flat surface to sit on the bunks.
     With the timber positioned to start the cut, I had a tractor prop up the far end of the timber to keep it from sagging.
     When I'd cut as far as I could go, we wedged the cut open enough to back the head out as far as it needed to go.  We then pushed the timber back far enough to finish the cut.  I then had the tractor re-position behind me to raise that end of the timber to level.
     It actually worked quite well.  I never expected to cut a 34' timber on a portable mill!



 



 



 



 



 

[Dave Shepard]

That's a neat solution. Resawing stuff like that is always tough. It can be a lot more flexible than you might think.

[fishfighter]

Good call. Any metal? Hope you got paid by the hour. ;D

[rasman57]

Good plan!  Was the customers goal to cut them once in half or make more cuts?  They must have a unique use for them.  I have seen them  cut for mantel stock before but never in such a long length.

[Magicman]

Very good, and an idea for me to file away because I do occasionally resaw beams.   

[Brad_bb]

Yes that would be a trick on a portable mill that only has a cut length of 17.5' or so.  I have cut a lot of reclaimed timber on my Woodmizer, but I have a couple extensions on it so I don't have to reposition.  I use small wedges I've cut to level twisted timber to my liking before making the cut.  When there is twist, I typically balance the twist on either end to get the average.

[newoodguy78]

Nice work. Thinking outside the box can definitely lead to rewarding outcomes.

[Peter Drouin]

Next time put the toe boards up a ¼" set the blade on the timber where you want and cut.
When you get to the end just back up the head with the blade in it. Move the beam and head together. Finish your cut.

What I do. Good luck

[4x4American]

Good stinkin!

[Nomad]

Next time put the toe boards up a ¼" set the blade on the timber where you want and cut.
When you get to the end just back up the head with the blade in it. Move the beam and head together. Finish your cut.

What I do. Good luck

     Pete, I thought about that.  Problem is, I was off the contact strip and couldn't do it.

     This was indeed an hourly job.  Took a total of 4 hours, with about 45 minutes actual run time.
     The purpose of these is faux beams in a new construction home.  Much of that time was spent waiting for the owner to show up. 
     The owner, an architect, wanted to be there to watch/participate in the process.  He and his wife made the decisions on where to make the cuts, which way to split the beams, etc.
     I did mess up a band on one cut, but thankfully it continued to cut straight to finish it.  I think I hit a pebble embedded in the face of one beam, and about a foot later in the same cut I went through a nail.

[Peter Drouin]

Only time you need the strip is when you put up the toe boards.

And never let someone tell you how to run your mill, Maybe another sawer. ;D ;)

[Sixacresand]

Glad you were successful, Nomad.  Old beams are a challenge: nasty, not straight, full of nails, fat wood causing pitch build up and diving blades.  And in your case, longer than the mill material.  Good job.  I suspect old beam millers use better blades than what I use.  What type blade did you use?

[Magicman]

Pete, I thought about that.  Problem is, I was off the contact strip and couldn't do it.

I always carry a battery "jump box" for the rare times that I need hydraulics and am off of the strip.  Heck I have even used it to jump stuff off too.   ;D

[Nomad]

      :D Nobody was telling me how to run my mill.  But it was his beams, and you only get to make the cut one time.  I wanted him to tell me where the cut should be.  If he decides later he didn't like the orientation, he's got nobody else to blame it on.  A pretty important decision; 34' hand hewn oak beams in good condition aren't stacked up in the box store.  They're not cheap, either!
     I used regular, 4 degree blades.
     The idea of a jumper box is a good one!

[fishpharmer]

Where there's Bill there's a way!  8)  Were those beams cypress?

[Nomad]

     No Fish, they were red oak.  Came from a barn in Tennessee.

[Dave Shepard]

I have cables in my hydraulic box with a disconnect switch, and then another set that hangs out the bottom that go to terminals on a battery with wingnuts so I can take the battery away when I don't want it there. I only use it to unclamp when I use the board drawback.

[Andries]

    . . . . This was indeed an hourly job.  Took a total of 4 hours, with about 45 minutes actual run time.
     The purpose of these is faux beams in a new construction home.  Much of that time was spent waiting for the owner to show up. 
     The owner, an architect, wanted to be there to watch/participate in the process.  He and his wife made the decisions on where to make the cuts, which way to split the beams, etc. . . .
[/quote]
Nice work Nomad Bill!
Ingenious solution to the problem.
Most of my milling is like what you went through with those clients. Five years worth, so far.
Now when I get together with production sawyers, they leave me in the sawdust when "mbf/hr" and "production rates" come up.  :D

[fishpharmer]

     No Fish, they were red oak.  Came from a barn in Tennessee.

Looks like they held up well. Maybe they were under cover.  My red oak fences and gates sure don't hold up like the white oak.