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Construction ?

Started by Norm, August 21, 2008, 12:51:56 PM

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Norm

I'm turning my garage into living area and am in the process of tearing out the garage doors to put in sliding door units. They will sit on the cement floor of the opening which is not perfectly level but pretty close. What is the best method to use under the units for sealing them. Here's a picture of the garage area I'm talking about.



Any other tips are appreciated.

Jeff

Is the 50 cal going to be involved?
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ADAMINMO

Silicone Caulking? Or something of that sort.

ksu_chainsaw

A silicone type caulking under the sill plate to prevent most of the water coming in, and a layer of the adhesive roofing membrane directly on the concrete- this will prevent water from wicking up into the wood, and the caulking will prevent water running in.

Thats how I would do it at least.

Charles

isawlogs


   I would add to what ksu said , I would put a peice of expanble foam or shoot some foam under the door sill ... that would take care of any voids the ciment might create by not being level .
  Is she gonna be needing a new parking spot fur da jip .... ???   ;D
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Gary_C

There are many good sealing compounds you can use, but none of them will be permanent if water can stand on any ledge outside the doors. So whatever you use make sure it extends out over the concrete and does not allow water to wick back under the door sill.

If there is any outside exposed ledge, make sure it is tapered away from the door.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Tom

You live in an impressive, almost Fort-looking, house. :)

ADAMINMO

Kinda looks like my house. But my house is alot smaller , not made from brick , it is white , and when it was put there it had wheels under it. Well ......... maybe it don't look like my house after all!  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D
Very nice house there Norm.

ADAMINMO

But I do have a BBQ grill like the one in the picture!!  :D   :D  :D  :D  :D

WDH

That is a beautiful house, Norm!

(I have one of those grills too :).).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

SwampDonkey

Nice home Norm and Patty. Sorry I ain't much good as a carpenter.  ;D As you know with my long winded wood working plans, I'm mostly an experimenter with a lot of math and cogitating. ;)
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Bro. Noble

Hey Corley,  you don't reckon?????? ;)
milking and logging and sawing and milking

pigman

Quote from: Norm on August 21, 2008, 12:51:56 PM
I'm turning my garage into living area ........................
Any  tips are appreciated.


My advice is to not make Patty mad and you will not have to move into the garage. ;) ;D
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

Handy Andy

  When I was building I always used a whole tube of caulk under a patio door, so it oozed out and cut the excess off after it was dry. All you have to do if you are going to side around the patio doors is hang the siding down 1" over the edge of the concrete so the water doesn't collect next to the sill plate.  Use sill sealer under your plate and anchor down with drill type anchors. Hope that makes sense.
My name's Jim, I like wood.

Don_Papenburg

I would put ICE and WATER shield on the bottom of the door sill then use a sill seal   and a good longlasting caulk . At least two beads oneon  inside and one on outside edge. Then make sure that any concrete outside the door sill is sloping away from the door .  In fact that is realy the first step , cut the leading edge of door openingto drain watr away.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Meadows Miller

Gday

Dad and I built about 25 log homes overhere and we always used pollyurathane to seal between the logs on chinked logwork  and weather proofing the homes compacts to 25% stretches to 250% Bostic or Sikkens makes it in the US

Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Norm

Thanks for all the tips folks, it's appreciated. :)

thecfarm

IMHO,this is no time to try to save a dollar.Probaly some of the above products,in price,would make me say,that's ain't right.But I would pay the price and be happy for many years because it worked.
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Daver

If it were me I would first use sill sealer foam then a 1 x 6 board ripped to fit the door. Then use concrete nails using the gun. Using the yellow bullets and fitting nails. Then use silicone on top of the board.. This way the door sits up just a little allowing for flooring and it can be attached to the board as well so the sill is not loose.

Just the way I would do it.

"Remember, amateurs made the ark, professionals built the Titanic."

Don P

I'll be another one to vote for the urethane caulks over silicone. NP1 by Sonneborne is popular around here, usually from trade suppliers. Silicone is a caulk I use to explain the difference between adhesion and cohesion. Have you ever noticed that silicone can very often be removed a year or two later as an intact rope? It has very good cohesive properties, it sticks to itself very well and that rope will undoutedly last the entire advertised 50 years. It also has lousy adhesive properties, it bonds to few other things well. Urethane on the other hand bonds to just about everything well, the caulk tube, your hands and britches... well, you get the idea  :D.

WildDog

Can't add to the advice re: the modifications Norm, but your house looks great.

Only problem I can see is your BBQ looks lonely and outa place there, don't forget Norm aside from your welder it is the most important piece of equipment you own and needs to be respected as such, it needs a roof, level footing, some T-Bone steaks on the grill and a couple of mates standing around with a beer :) I just hope the sliding doors are going in to asist with the BBQ use.  ;)
If you start feeling "Blue" ...breath    JD 5510 86hp 4WD loader Lucas 827, Pair of Husky's 372xp, 261 & Stihl 029

Norm

Well we got the windows in on Sunday. It took pretty much all day Saturday getting the openings prepped and all the tools ready. On Sunday Joel, Patty and I decided we'd see if just the three of us could handle the units. The stationary ones weighed 200#s and the operating ones was 300#. Luckily we could take the slider out so it was the easiest one to handle.



By 2:00PM we had them set just in time for Patty's mom and aunt to show up to freeze all the fresh peaches we'd picked a couple of days ago. Joel headed off to his place to do yard work and I finished buttoning them up.

Monday morning is here and I'm a bit sore but darn glad to have them in and set.

Daver

They look great!  Good job.. Boy that was quick..
"Remember, amateurs made the ark, professionals built the Titanic."

thecfarm

I think that looks much better than the garage doors that was there.   Good job.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

WDH

Norm, they look really good!
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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