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D log construction

Started by argyle1, July 19, 2010, 09:55:48 AM

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argyle1

i've always been a sawmiller, now i bought an old pendu cant profiler and rebuilt it.
i ran some double t&g 6x8 D logs that turned out great and i'd like to build a cabin, but i don't know anything about how to do it.
are there any instuction books or videos out there ----i've found lots regarding handcraft, but nothing on D log
thanks for any info

iffy

search the archives at lhoti.com. Lot of info there.

montana

I have built many D shaped log homes, they are fairly simple. I build my slabs just as you would a stick frame home. I use 12"X1/2" anchor bolts, making sure the top of the anchor bolt is about 1/2" below the first course of logs(avoid door openings) :D. Set anchors every three feet. I use sill seal with caulk to seal between the slab and first course of logs. Most D shaped logs are butt and pass in the corners. I usually put my electrical in the top of the second course of logs close to window and door openings, cut a v groove in top of second course and run wire there, if code allows. The more you can put in framed walls the better. I use 11" screws to fasten logs together every 2', and outside of top groove to the end grain of the butt log. I also cut my door and window openings 3" wider and taller than rough openings, this is to put 2x6 frame in opening to give you a flat nailer for window fins and flat surface for exterior trim, you can also run electrical in the cavity on the inside of the 2x6 and drill holes through the remainder of the top courses to get to the attic, if code allows. The also give the wall more structural integrity. Keep walls plum with bracing as you go up. When you get to final course cut tongue off to have flat surface to nail rafters, and miter the last course 45 degrees in the corners to allow for over hang. The rest is typical framing practices. Perma Chink is a good source for log screws, caulk and finish for inside and outside the home. Satterwhiteloghomes.com is a place I would visit also, Hope it helps.

Mike

Blueforester


Montana, I'm trying to educate myself on this log home construction as well and hope you can help me understand this better.

Quote from: montana on July 26, 2010, 02:08:13 AM
" I also cut my door and window openings 3" wider and taller than rough openings, this is to put 2x6 frame in opening to give you a flat nailer for window fins and flat surface for exterior trim, you can also run electrical in the cavity on the inside of the 2x6 and drill holes through the remainder of the top courses to get to the attic, if code allows."

  Do you fasten these door and window bucks directly to the logs?  I've read where some slot the bucks and install w/ lags in washers.  Is this neccessary?

Quote"The also give the wall more structural integrity." 
Are you referring to the window and door bucks?

Quote"and miter the last course 45 degrees in the corners to allow for over hang."
I'm trying to picture this in my head.  Are you saying that you will not have the 'pass' , of the butt and pass corner, on the top course?  I'm guessing that where the roof extends over the wall on whatever pitch, that by mitering the corners the ends of the top logs will not intersect w/ the roof plane? 


Thanks!  This was some good information.

Blueforester

montana

Blueforester, yes they attach directly to the logs, I have found no need to lag the 2x6s, I do however nail the with 3 1/8" framing nails a bunch. Stagger nail outer side of 2xs to enter side, be careful not to nail where the log tapers back on the rounded surface. I have never had any movement where the doors and windows are nailed this way. If you would fill more comfortable with lag bolts, just counter sink and screw away. On the final course, I do miter them for a finished look and to allow the overhang to pass. The miter cut would follow the inside corner of the other courses, no pass on the final course. If you didn't have tongue and groove I would probably consider lags in the openings, use plenty of caulk between those logs and you should be fine. The first two course of logs will take you the longest.(anchors and electrical), don't get discouraged you'll have log walls before you know it. Hope I splained it clear enough, my wife says I lack in this area sometimes. :D :D Hope this helps.

Doug_D

I am in the process of building a cabin with D logs. 

Below is a link to how I did my windows and doors.  So far I am pretty happy with it, but I've got a ways to go....
http://www.loghomeu.com/forum/topics/the-evil-installing-windows?xg_source=activity

Before putting down the first course, I put down treated 4x6's that came into contact with the slab (cement).  Once those were bolted down, I set my first course of logs and just used lags and log screws.  If you buy quality logs (pretty dry and straight), you'll will be amazed at how fast the walls will go up.  By myself I could only set a few logs a day, but with 2 friends over a 3 day weekend we set 8 courses (60%).

I used emseal between every course and log caulk around the windows.

I can tell a pretty big difference between the log screws with 2.75" of thread and the 3" of thread.  Don't ask me how I ended up with both, but for some crazy reason, that extra 1/4" of thread really makes a difference.  They also seem to be a larger diameter too.  The larger ones just don't "spin-out".  The others I have several times.






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