I am pretty sure I have a bearing that needs to be replaced. I noticed my blade was not a nice straight, thin line but had some blurryness to it so I looked at my blade tension and it was right on 2500psi. So the first thing I thought of was to check the bandwheels. Sure enough, you can make the bandweel on the idle side move noticeably by brabbing it on both sides with each hand, and pushing and pulling back and forth. The drive side has no wobble whatsoever.
While I obviously need to replace the bearing (tried tightening the little nut but it didn't help) I just wondered if you guys think I ought to go ahead and replace the power side too while I am at it. It does not look as simple though.
The idle wheel will be loose like that if your blade is off.
If it wobbles when under tension it probably is the bearing.
Before you do anything drastic, clean under the v-belt.
Also check to make sure that the v-belt isn't worn too flat.
The v-belt being worn a bunch or the groove of the wheel being worn will allow the blade to touch the metal wheel. This usually causes them to break, but it makes them wobble too.
Another thing that makes the blade wobble like that is getting cracks in the body of the blade. If you can't see them, put on a new blade and see if that helps.
I think like Tom that checking under the v belts is the first place to look. Also swapping the belts from side to side helps as well. There is quite a bit of play in the idle side. You should come shake Wanda's idle wheel. That little darling has over 1/4 inch of travel. I change my v belts about every 3 months now and there is always some pine pitch under them.
I agree with Tom and Arkansawyer
The bearing would be the last of the fixes.....check alignment and v-belt first.
If a saw blade broke and gouged the v-belt, when you put on a new blade it will (bounce) as it comes in contact with that bump on the v-belt.
Robert
Kevjay, the idler wheel bearings are fairly simple to change. there are 2 of them, standard off-the shelf sealed ball bearings. Unless they have changed their policy, woodmizer won't sell you the drive side bearings. they will sell you the complete housing and shaft with the bearings already installed. Don't even think about changing them yourself unless 1-you have access to a machine shop 2- you are prepared to go through a real booger of an alignment procedure.
I'd agree with the previous posts, most likely your problem is either a cracked blade or buildup under a v-belt.
Kev, try a new or different blade - If that doesn't help, you need to look further.
Hello Kevjay,
I noticed you said that you have 2500 psi blade tension. Is that 2500 pounds of actual blade tension? If so that could be causing you a problem with bearing and blade failure. Not knowing what brand or type of mill you have, it would be hard to help you pin point your problem.
Robert in Virginia
rewimmer,
Kevjay has a Woodmizer. The reading is the gauge that is on the hydrualic tensioner.
Ron
Hello,
The idle side bearing is a 6305 AA ( this depends on what revision mill you have) I am assuming, ;)
Make sure you check that the bearing is not worn in the wheel, I see this happen some, so look close.
You can replace the bearings and still have a wobble because the bearing has worn the bore of the wheel.
If it is worn replace the wheel with part # 016189 assembly this will give you a heavier bearing and will not give you a problem. ( I would like to say never give you an issue again but I can not do that ;D) Give your ASC a call or call the Wood-Mizer team at Indy. To check the idle wheel you need to make the chrome shafts tight in their bore, block, hammer handle etc and tension the wheel up a little. Most times you can see the bearing move in the bore or in the race.
Hope this helps.
Marty
I replaced the belts, even though I could see nothing wrong with them and they were fairly new. I inpsected the grooves in the bandwheels and could not find any foriegn matter or objects.
I left the same blade on and when i ran it up the flapping was gone. I suppose it had to be one of the belts then, and I assume the idle side. I should have changed one at a time.
It's good to know the wobble in the bearing is normal. Alot of good info from you guys on this - thanks all.
Put your old belts back on and see if you can make it happen again. You might have gotten rid of the problem when a piece of debris fell off. If that is the case, you have a spare set of belts. that always comes in handy to have in the spare parts inventory. :D
I will do that because I should not keep them/it around if they are messed up.
I have another set of new spares but ya never can have too many spare parts in the inventory. Hmm where have I heard that before. :)
What is the correct tension for the blade on a WM? I tighten mine so tight the gauge doesn't go that far.
Kevjay, do you mean the blade is flapping up and down between the blade guides when it is spinning and not in the cut? They all do this some when the blade guides are far apart and the blade free wheels for a while. That is what that little set-screw in the top of the blade compartment (behind the flip-down blade door) does, keeps it from flapping too much across the top between the wheels.
As far as the idle-side bearings, do like Marty says. Take the blade off and stick a block of wood in between the chrome rod weldment and the blade housing and put a bit of tension on it before you check the bearings. Otherwise the rods will move slightly in their holes and make it look like the bearing has some side-play...
As far as the drive-side, dont touch it if nothing is wrong, they are expensive and tough to set back up. Not impossible, but tricky. The fluid should be changed every 500 or 1000 hours (I think...), should be able to unhook the sight-guage tube and dump out the old and pour in the new Dextron 3 trans. fluid...
500 hours or once a year. Replace the tube if it is discolored. Dextron III is what goes in the bearing. Factory oil is clear ( J26 Hydraulic oil we use) So if your mill is a years old and has clear oil in the drive bearing tube change it. The older mills only have a plug so check it and add untill it runs out. 3/8 drive extension works with a pipe wrench if they seem tight.
Marty