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homemade mill and autofeed

Started by revid, February 13, 2016, 09:31:49 AM

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Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Slingshot on March 14, 2016, 02:50:09 PM

revid........

Here is a power feed I put on a Norwood Mark 4 that I had a few years ago.
I used a wheelchair motor and the speed controller off of the wheelchair.
The motor would run on 12 volts but I had to use 24 volts for the controller
to operate. Good control on power and speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImwGDHLBC_U


_______________________----
Charles

Charles,
Nice.  I caught a glimpse of the rope going around your drive wheel.  Once or twice around?  Do you have problems with it wanting to crawl up the side of your drive wheel?  Do you just have the rope tied off or to you have some sort of tension spring at one end?  Looks like no issues driving from one side only.  Since I have electric start on my mill now, doing this would be feasible on mine.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

I use the cable drive. One loop around the pulley and a spring at the end of the mill to keep
everything tight.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Slingshot


    Ijohnsaw,  I don't have that sawmill now but I think I made two turns
  around the pulley which was actually one of the wheel rims that had about
  a 1-1/2 inch flat. The rope didn't ride up the sides and was tied taut at the ends.

  Kbeitz, I can see your cable system working with one wrap on the large pulley
but there was too much slip in the rope and needed at least 2 wraps to have
enough friction. (I like your system)


_____________________-----
Charles

Kbeitz

With my blade dog guards my motor will stall out before it slips if I hit a log dog.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

revid

 Kbeitz,thanks and with that speed controller you use how slow can you adjust?
Here is what I used,finally got to upload them :


  

  

 

Kbeitz

My speed controller will slow my motor all the way to stop.
At 1 to 10 I would say #2 is stop. #10 is all the faster I would ever want to go
with out running my carriage off the mill. I saw around 4 to 5 on the dial.
The controlers sell so cheap that I bought 5 of them so I have if ever needed.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Your motor looks to be a wormgear motor. The only problem with them is when you hit stop
you will stop...  Dead in your tracks... Like running into a brick wall. No coasting.
You might need to have rubbers in your feed sprockets like old motorcycle sprockets to
absorb the shock. Trying to stop the carriage that fast is real hard on things.
Wormgear motors dont coast. My motors was not wormgear but they had electric
brakes on them I had to remove the brakes for a soft stop.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

revid

Kbeitz do you see any problem using the controller I have with my motor based on electrical specs/watts/volts etc..? If so do you think the one you suggested would handle the job? Got to much invested in that motor to change now unless I come across a real cheap motor.

Kbeitz

All you can do is try your controller and see what happens. If it can handle the amps, vibration
and dampness you should be good to go. When you run your cable put springs at both ends.
That should take most of the shock out of the quick stop.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ga Mtn Man

Your gear motor is rated at 180W which gives you a current draw of about 14A at 12.6V.  The problem is we don't know at what load the 180W is calculated.  The motor could draw a lot more than 14A when stalled.  Your speed controller is rated at 30A max but we don't know the continuous duty rating.  Like Kbeitz said, all you can do is try it and see if it smokes.  You could put a 30A slow-blo fuse on the speed controller so that you don't exceed the max current rating.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

revid

well its not working like I want it to do and its smoking! When it works it will only work when I turn it up fast and thats not what I want so I am looking for something else. Do you think what Kbeitz is using (controller) will work and if it doesnt I am not going to blame anyone just looking for guidance and suggestions. I am at a stand still now on my mill cause my auto feed is not doing what it should. I will order one of those controllers if I know it will work. I have the motor running sprockets and chain with a spring loaded bolt already.

Josh3760

Quote from: revid on March 15, 2016, 09:51:59 PM
well its not working like I want it to do and its smoking! When it works it will only work when I turn it up fast and thats not what I want so I am looking for something else. Do you think what Kbeitz is using (controller) will work and if it doesnt I am not going to blame anyone just looking for guidance and suggestions. I am at a stand still now on my mill cause my auto feed is not doing what it should. I will order one of those controllers if I know it will work. I have the motor running sprockets and chain with a spring loaded bolt already.

I use the same controller on my power feed with out any trouble. For the price their hard to beat! I ordered 2 to have a spare on hand just in case. I just got my power feed done and it works great but only time will tell on how long it last. Mine did take awhile to arrive. Something about a slow boat from China..
Josh

revid

HI Josh3760,what kinda setup you have  so I can compare it to mine? I am assuming that theres no issue with reversing also? What do you use for a reversing switch? I am trying to rule out anything that might be giving me problems. Thanks Going to order one of them controllers today.

Josh3760



I use a momentary drum switch. I wouldn't do it any other way. Then there is no way of it getting away from ya. When u let off it stops. My setup is super simple, +/- from battery to speed controller +/- to switch then to the motor. Hope that helps.
Josh

revid

Wow Josh3760 love that setup!! I noticed the two handles,one for direction and whats the other for? Got any links to where to buy? I sent for the controller today like you have. Would that setup work with the motor I have posted earlier? What are you running for a motor setup?

Josh3760

The other handle is the throttle. I'm running wheel chair motors right now on 12v but might jump up to 24v for more speed though. Yes I don't see any reason why u will have any problems. Your motor looks like a tarp motor we use on our dump trucks at work. They are very reliable and take alot of abuse in dirty conditions. Whatever way your planning on moving the caridge via rope, cable or roller chain u will probably have to mess with your sprocket size or pulley size to get the desired speed  you want. I bought all my parts on eBay or from a local supplier. We are not allowed to post eBay links on here. If u don't like the drum switch u can use a winch relay and momentary three way switch with the speed controller inline like I used for my lift motor. Just as easy but I like the drum switch for travel. 
Josh

revid

I got my controller and was planning on hooking up a dpdt switch. seen a couple of different wiring diagrams and dont know which is right. So I got wires coming from battery to controller,controller to switch,switch to motor. Now how to wire the switch??. Like I said seen a few different ways and want to get this right so I dont fry my controller...Took a month to get here!

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Josh3760

Quote from: revid on April 20, 2016, 07:10:41 AM
I got my controller and was planning on hooking up a dpdt switch. seen a couple of different wiring diagrams and dont know which is right. So I got wires coming from battery to controller,controller to switch,switch to motor. Now how to wire the switch??. Like I said seen a few different ways and want to get this right so I dont fry my controller...Took a month to get here!

If you r using a drum switch like we talked about here is the diagram for it. Take note of handle position and how it corresponds to the contacts
Josh

revid

was going to hook up dpdt switch till drum switch arrives if I can figure out wiring

revid

 Something else.Hooked up controller and the *DanG thing lights up but nothing else.I bypassed it and everything is ok! Dont know what else to do now.

Kbeitz

After it lights up... Did you turn the pot ?

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

revid

yeah the *DanG thing is toast. I asked around and it seems the lower you turn the rpm down the hotter it gets and since I am looking for real low rpm I guess it was to much for it to handle.I can see one of the tiny "leads" burnt. Oh well another dozen beer gone down the drain. I found a company on the west coast where I bought the motor I am using and they sell a controller they use with their sawmill setup. I phoned and picked their heads and got some details and will order from where they buy theirs,a lot cheaper lol.

Kbeitz

I can turn down my controller down so slow that you cant see the carriage move.
You had something else wrong. What was the amp draw from your motor?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

revid

Don't know the amp draw. All the add says where I bought the motor is:GEARMOTOR
BRAND NEW HIGH QUALITY
PERMANENT MAGNET MOTOR
12 VOLT DC
180 WATTS (.24 HP)
25:1 RATIO
OUTPUT SPEED 150-160 RPM
LOAD BETWEEN 30-40 N.M. (22-29 FOOT POUNDS)  It worked for a bit,ran it up and down the track,only when I started turning down the pot did it start hesitating then finally gave out. Hooked battery to speed controller,controller to switch then to motor. Wired same as your diagram. It seems like it was fine as long as the motor was turning fast. Anyway dont know what happened. Does it make a difference if the controller is for brush or brushless motors? All the ad says is permanent magnet and I noticed some controllers says for brushless. Do permanent magnet motors have brushes?

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