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Lt 10 wm

Started by rwepinetree, August 25, 2015, 07:58:55 PM

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rwepinetree

A friend of mine has an Lt 10 that he is using to saw ewp 1x4 1x6 and other sizes .he has been having trouble sawing straight lumber new blades last about 200 bf before it starts to wave the logs are clean and he has an edger so he isn't tring to edge on the mill . he sends the bands out for sharping and they will saw 1 maybe 2 logs then wont cut straight any commets thank you

bkaimwood

How knotty are the logs?
bk

dgdrls

what band is he running??

the logs full of sap/pitch?

Dan

MartyParsons

Drive belt tension? Band tension? Wood Mizer Re Sharp? Blade tilted? 10 degree? I like the 9 degree .045 on the 10 hp. We were cutting WO at the last show with the LT10. I also have used a Bi Metal band on these on the tough stuff.
We had the bed a little lower at one end and it was feeding it self. Someone asked me if it had power feed.
If the blade is tilted you can move the complete saw head if it is way off. Sometimes they come from the factory tilted a lot. Use a square and align the mast post with the bed rail. Check blade tilt with the Blade guide alignment tool.

Hope this helps.
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

OffGrid973

I have the LT10 and that should not happen once you are dialed in with the blade tension, proper amount of water on the blade.   If you hear the engine slow down do not force it, keep the high rpm sound and let it do the work.  Also I cut on my driveway and if the track isn't level it will twist the boards so make sure it's straight and square, use blue chalk line to snap some marks on ground, simple but works great, then level off.
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

rwepinetree

no the logs are not all noty and they are cut within the last month . I will check the drive belt tension aqnd the blade tilt also check the mill for level any thing else.I think he is running Simonds blades and don't know the degree .It  also seems like the set is getting knocked off one side I have to go check a lot of this stuff out and see what happens thank you for all your help

Sixacresand

These are a few things I learned when I had my "Ten".
Wash dirty logs.  If pine logs are older, then knock the bark off with a shovel. 
keep engine RPM's high
Maintain proper alignment on blade rollers.  The manual does a good job of how to do it.
Watch for pitch buildup on blades, rollers and wheels.  (add more/change type of lube)
Slow down at knots.
Maintain steady lube rate. 
Don't rush through a cut, especially when cutting wide boards. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Warped

I keep a torque wrench right on the mill. When waves start I check it, usually she's a lb. or two light. Was shocked to see what a difference it made. Also shocked at what a dope I was to take so long to make adjustments. All the other advice given of course is spot on.
      I also pull a string line down the length of 20' of track raised up one inch at both ends, then check it's height at each cross member.
Good luck!
Good with the rough stuff and rough with the good stuff

OffGrid973

Forgot to mention the most important, check for nails or metal which will dull the blade immediately, and the wave starts.  I took a shot on a tree Sat and what do you know, small and medium size nails and I forgot to wand the log for metal.  I use the $33 CenTech wand and it works great.
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

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