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bucking logs

Started by henry co., January 27, 2016, 09:45:50 PM

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henry co.

How can I determine where the log needs to be bucked at and how do I tell the difference if the log is to be a saw log, veneer log, or pallet log?  On the ash logs what is the way to tell if they are a handle log? What size would that consist of for a handle log? Most of my timber is sugar maple, ash, cottonwood, sycamore, and walnut.

beenthere

henry
Will need to learn to read the bark, and try to learn the history of that log when it was growing and laying down annual growth rings. The bark tells that story pretty well, but takes some experience being around the different species to identify where there is clear, high quality wood underneath that bark.
Smooth, straight, surfaces without bumps, limb stubs, overgrown limbs, holes, spiral grain, etc.  show quality potential within the log. Some of the things to consider.
In addition to that, read the log ends (rate of growth, pith center, shake, stain, rot, holes) for additional info.
Not impossible to do.

Where to buck the log will depend on the products needed from the log. If random length lumber is of value, then bucking at the locations where the stem deviates from straight will give the highest volume yield. Knowing lumber grades is important to make the bucking decisions as well. Grading the different four faces of logs will show what logs are worth, as a log grader will use these faces to determine value (if selling logs).

That's the tip of the iceberg.. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

treeslayer2003

get your buyer on the landing before you buck any thing. he will show you what he wants.

BargeMonkey

Quote from: treeslayer2003 on January 27, 2016, 11:02:07 PM
get your buyer on the landing before you buck any thing. he will show you what he wants.
What he said. Every market is different and every buyer has a certain criteria to meet, here the mill's favor shorter logs, 8-12', 16' is rare unless real big stuff.

henry co.

Thanks for the information

coxy

funny my mill cant stand 8fters  :D would rather have 10-16  different mill want different lengths

BargeMonkey

Quote from: coxy on January 28, 2016, 06:05:18 PM
funny my mill cant stand 8fters  :D would rather have 10-16  different mill want different lengths
I can't get veneer on an 8' log, but can get prime +. Alot of what I'm cutting right now is #1 anyway, and it's all about volume. I haven't shipped a 16' log in a long time. Anything over 12' has to be super super nice to get veneer, so everything coming off the slasher is between 8-10'.

NWP

Quote from: treeslayer2003 on January 27, 2016, 11:02:07 PM
get your buyer on the landing before you buck any thing. he will show you what he wants.

Definitely. A few inches too short can cost a lot of $$
1999 Blockbuster 2222, 1997 Duratech HD10, 2021 Kubota SVL97-2, 2011 Case SV250, 2000 Case 1845C, 2004 Case 621D, John Deere 540A, 2011 Freightliner with Prentice 120C, 2012 Chevrolet, 1997 GMC bucket truck, several trailers, and Stihl saws.

Peter Drouin

Had a logger call to see if I need any hemlock. He had 40,000 bf of it all cut 16' and shorter. I told him I have a lot of that short stuff and need 20' and 24' stuff.
I have some coming from another logger that called and ask what I needed. It helped him and me. He like the 275 I'm paying.
Better to call the mill first.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

mills

Size matters! :D Local mill here cracked down last fall on log lengths. They were getting way too many logs bucked a little short or a little long. I thought it was about time until they sent one of mine to the chip pile. >:(

tj240

I worked for a veneer buyer for 5 years, i saw so many people cut the logs to short, so it wouldnt make veneer. When in doubt cut it 10' 6", If you have an idea, 9' 8", last chance 8'9". Like was mentioned before, a good buyer will tell you what to cut. Remeber if the cut it they own it!! I hope this helps.
work with my father[jwilly] and my son. we have a 240 tj 160 barko[old] works great three generations working together

luvmexfood

I have found a couple of guides on the internet for free on this subject. The first is from the University of Tennessee Extension Service and is titled "A Hardwood Log Grading Handbook" and the second is from the USFS and is titled "A Guide to Hardwood Log Grading. Second book also says technical report NE 1.

I downloaded both in PDF form.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

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