Husqvarna chain question

[John Mc]

Yeah, I was thinking of the "saddle" type gauges that sit on  teeth on both sides of the depth gauge you are filing.  I forgot about the kind that has the filing notch on one end, and sit across two or more teeth on one side of the depth gauge to be filed.

[CTYank]

I've used all kinds of jigs and guides on my chains. The first couple touch ups I can do free hand but I have to use a grinding wheel chain saw sharpening machine when things get too out of whack. Some teeth get shorter than others and you have to use a micrometer to measure each one to get them back in line or just use a machine. I check for sharpness on each tooth by feeling for the burr the file leaves on the corner of the tooth.

Of course, this goes in the face of the ones who evangelize about free-hand filing, but simply can't see how randomization sets in. Incremental changes are small, and potentially cumulative. Easy to fuss up with so many variables to manage simultaneously.

Yes, some guides, the sheet-metal ones that sit atop a tooth, block your view of the teeth. OTOH, the ones that clamp on the bar like Granberg's leave you an excellent view. Also leave you easy access with a finger-tip to "see" your file-height setting very precisely. Not at all slower than free-handing, IMHO, but way better product.

It's all a matter of what works, of what you've tried, ST.

[SawTroll]

Yeah, I was thinking of the "saddle" type gauges that sit on  teeth on both sides of the depth gauge you are filing.  I forgot about the kind that has the filing notch on one end, and sit across two or more teeth on one side of the depth gauge to be filed.

What I was referring to. 

[John Mc]

I use the guide that clamps the round file into a formed piece of sheet metal. I've not had any problems with the fact that it partially obstructs the view of the tooth. Since the guide is holding the file at the appropriate depth, I don't really need to see that aspect. I can see the 25˚ angle by looking at the markings on the guide.  I can also see the edge of the tooth in the slot between the file and the metal guide, so I can see when the file has taken off enough to "seat" itself against the edge of the tooth (I can usually feel when that happens as well).

About the only thing I can't see well is something I also can't see with a bare file:  how parallel the file is to the ground (or whether it has the 10˚ down angle). That's more due to the angle at which I'm viewing - looking down from above - than the type of guide I'm using.

I like this guide because it doesn't take up a lot of space, so it's easy to carry along. It also protects the file a bit when it's in my chainsaw toolbox.  Call it "training wheels", or whatever you want. It works well for me, so I use it. I do need to try one of those roller guides again sometime. I tried it once, but just wasn't as comfortable or as fast with it. It is nice and compact, however.  As someone else mentioned, if I friend had a Timberline sharpener, I'd give it a try. It's just too expensive to order one to see if I might like it.

[HolmenTree]

On the subject of file holders or guides as they are sometimes called, here's a pic of an old vintage still in the box McCulloch file holder that I have.
Notice the $3.75 price on the box so must be a very old file holder. Anyone ever used one of these?

 

[GDinMaine]

I thought I would follow up on this subject.  I went to the dealer asking about chains my little Husky 445. I mentioned that I would like to buy a chain that is similar in characteristics to the Stihl RS chain.  He just said: "Why don't you just buy the RS chain that fits that saw.?" It turns out Stihl manufactures that particular size so they can be sold to Husqvarna owners.  The different chain put that little saw into a whole different category.  I'm happy with it ... end of rant...
Thanks to all who gave advice on this.

[49er]

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may nto be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.

I know this is an old dead thread but Chester's comment,#7, is what my buddies,yes I have some,at the restaurant have been saying for a long time. They swear Husquvarna branded chain is superior to Oregon. I can not confirm nor din-eye this. Does anyone else have an opinion?

[Grandpa]

49er

Yes, in my opinion Husqvarna chain is harder than Oregon chain, despite what I've been told.

[snowshoveler]

Here in Canada...Husqvarna is still miffed about bar and chain shortages a year or 2 ago from Oregon supply.
It would not surprise me at all if they were bringing in their own chain and bars from Europe.
A lot of Husqvarna bars now come to our shop in a Husqvarna box with the cardboard wrapper being just a plain white sleeve. That never happened before. They were always in a printed fancy sleeve.
Regards Chris

[ehp]

I think it depends on what Oregon factory the chain comes from, guys here have been complaining about Oregon chain being very soft but that chain turned out to becoming from 1 plant and not the plant in Canada, Blunt was all over this soft chain pretty fast once dealers started to complain . AS far as using depth gauges or filing jigs I know I'm abit different than most . I donot use anything , everything is done free hand even on my race chains .

[HolmenTree]

The Portland Oregon plant has rolled out some soft batches from my experiences ordering rolls over the years from Baileys. 
To be honest for years  I have only filed all my chain free hand  too without a guide or gauge. From experience as you learn how a saw feels in the cut....you learn how a round and flat file feel in the cut.
Race chain.....it's just me but I'm a little more fussy, I still file free hand but I back it up with straight edges,feeler gauges and calipers. ;D

[SawTroll]

Here in Canada...Husqvarna is still miffed about bar and chain shortages a year or 2 ago from Oregon supply.
It would not surprise me at all if they were bringing in their own chain and bars from Europe.
A lot of Husqvarna bars now come to our shop in a Husqvarna box with the cardboard wrapper being just a plain white sleeve. That never happened before. They were always in a printed fancy sleeve.
Regards Chris

A new Husky chain factory in Sweden was supposed to start production in 2015 - but I haven't seen any results yet?

I don't know how much of the production they plan to move "in-house".

[ehp]

I donot think anyone could be more fussy than me , that's the problem . Filing jigs have way to much movement built into them , Your guide points on most are only 2 to 3 inches apart so over a full stroke of the file there can be a lot of angles change just from the play in the jig . If the guide points were 24 inches apart then they would be far more accurate , Yes I know the file is a lot shorter than that but build the jig so there is as close to zero movement . As far as race chains go I only build for whom I want and like and they do very well at the Stihl series and Hayward . 

[HolmenTree]

Good points there Ed about the jig with the tight tolerances. ....in the last few years I've  been working  on my own jig design now that I got a proper chain vise to file the chain on.
I hear you can build a fine race saw, how are you in the cold start and making your 3 competitive cuts?

[ehp]

I'm won my fair share of shows in Canada and USA but not good business building saws and racing against your own stuff. If you beat them you kept the faster stuff for yourself so I quit racing . Now I have had both shoulders pretty much rebuilt , got 52 pieces of steel in the left shoulder and 31 pieces in right shoulder but now I find it a lot easier to do the cuts , I'm a lot more accurate on where I want the saw to hit on the log/cant than before . I still play around but really have very little interest in racing these days . As far as cold start on a 20 inch bottom with 12 inch log so 32 inch top which is pretty much standard for up here with a 3120 I'm in the .85 to .90 sec average time on cold start, lower the block the faster it would be . I'm not as strong as I use to be but then again I'm about 50 pounds lighter than when I raced plus I'm older

[ehp]

Now back to the chain, I use husky chain as I get it from a dealer in the states but to me its the same chain as the Oregon chain that comes from blunt here an hour away , same hardness , same cutter , same chain

[49er]

Ehp,I believe you are right but I'll never convince those guys at the cafe.

[HolmenTree]

I'm won my fair share of shows in Canada and USA but not good business building saws and racing against your own stuff. If you beat them you kept the faster stuff for yourself so I quit racing . Now I have had both shoulders pretty much rebuilt , got 52 pieces of steel in the left shoulder and 31 pieces in right shoulder but now I find it a lot easier to do the cuts , I'm a lot more accurate on where I want the saw to hit on the log/cant than before . I still play around but really have very little interest in racing these days . As far as cold start on a 20 inch bottom with 12 inch log so 32 inch top which is pretty much standard for up here with a 3120 I'm in the .85 to .90 sec average time on cold start, lower the block the faster it would be . I'm not as strong as I use to be but then again I'm about 50 pounds lighter than when I raced plus I'm older

Good post Ed, thanks.
Knock on wood I'm still in good shape relating to your shoulders. ....that's gotta slow a guy down a bit.
My wife says I should get involved competing again and do a little  traveling .  I don't want to go back to the 2 day carving events . But a little  chopping and using one of J.P. Mercier's latest bow saw blades would be fun.
I've never been to Hayward , that was always on my wish list to compete there.
Maybe they have a senior citizen event there :D