I've seen a few houses up north that had what I would call run-of-the-mill siding- basically, boards cut from un-squared logs, so that the edges are left natural- crooked, burls, beginnings of branches, etc. Is there a term for this siding? Would it be hard to make? How would you prevent splitting? I like the rustic look of it, and have lots of trees I could use. I'm still trying to find an excuse to have a small sawmill. :D
The name varies by region, in the Adirondacks it's called "brainstorm" in New England, it's called "Adirondack siding" (go figure), here in SW Pa. we call it "Flitch siding" or, Natural edge. I have heard other names but generally I hear 4-5 different things people call it. Usually it is thrown up, without much regard to craftsmanship, except mine which was done VERY well, all stainless fasteners (under the lap) none on the face at all. Lightly sanded to get rid of the "hair" and fibers from rough milling (only cirle milling as I like the swirl marks). Also edges rounded by sanding the bark lightly. Scarf jointing at the minimal end grain joints (some boards are 20') I also re-ripped the top edge so they were consistant width. Also matched the seams at ALL the corner boards (even on dormers) and down the run of the long walls and around windows (used strings to "follow" exposure lines). All corner boards and window frames are 3" thick, and are "toe screwed" from the lower edges to hide the stainless fasteners. I also routed the edges at the corner boards to accomadate thicking caulking.
Reid
Just did a job for a friend is this what you are talking about ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14805/PICT0421.JPG)
Woody1,
THAT IS a nice job!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11262/Oinsulation4.jpg)
Ironwood
Ironwood and Woody, when you sawed the siding, how did you taper it?
There is no bevel on the pine I cut. It is straight 4/4.
Ironwood, Thank you..Right back at ya !! Good Job.
We call that flitch siding here too. Though I've never done it, have a cabin built in 1963 has 2 sides like that, oak. The way it appears to be sawn, was three sides of the log slabbed, then the boards were sawn with the crown side down, so the siding boards were uncut on bottem side.
Bet it's a challenge to get the corner and across the window/door "reveal" lines. Those look good.
Full one inch PLUS on mine, hence the 3" thick trim boards. I bought mine from a local circlemill.
Ironwood
I have also heard it called live edge siding.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,4787.0.html
Woody1 and Ironwood- those are great workmanship! That's what I was talking about- now I have a name (or 5) to with it. I like the idea of squaring up one edge to make the width consistent. What are you using for a finish?
Should have went w/ Sikkens. FYI
Ironwood
Up here it's called Adirondack siding goes back to the early 1800s. Don't see much of it anymore everything is man made . UGLY. I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my property. Both of you did a fantastic job and should be proud I just hope mine turns out half as good as yours did. Congrats.....Cheyenne
Ironwood I had to take another look because the detail is amazing......A man after my own heart......Cheyenne
Gday
Woody and Ironwood I Like Your work ;) ;D 8) 8) You two blokes are about as Fussy as I am but if your doing it you mite as well do a dang good job the first time ;) :D :D ;D ;D Ive cut enough Natural edge/ Live edge weather boards to do a 16 + homes and 2 sheds over the years 6 homes and 1 shed with the bandmill when Dad and I had the log building business and the rest on a kara mill that i used to manage and operate for a mate wide ones over 8" cover i use to cut at4/4 and under that was 4/5 it depended what the person wanted ;) You have both done a top job on those places 8) the bit im really fussy about is the join on long runs ;)
Regards Chris
Reid and Woody - very nice craftsmanship!
Around here it is also called "Live Edge" or "Natural edge" siding. Typically 4/4 with milled surfaces on both faces as well as one edge.
I like to use it under the eaves, above board and batten siding. Here are some SYP examples - the stained one was run through a planer, and unstained one is rough cut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/Small_run_in_shed2.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13296/house_siding2.jpg)
Most of our SYP are tall and straight, so if you want wide boards there will not be as much detail on the live edge as you will get from using the thinner boards from the upper trunks. This is one difference between the two buildings in my photo's.
That's a flitch only edged on one side. If it's not debarked a good place for bugs to move in and almost all sapwood, e.g. just under the bark, rots readily too.
Just something to think about.
Does look rustic though.
Mad Prof,
Been up 8 years, not one bug yet, except hornets under the lap.
Ironwood
Gday
A Slick Does the Trick on the bark ;) :D ;D
Chris
Ironwood: Did you bevel your siding or put it up same thickness....Cheyenne
The rot issue due to the sap wood has always been a concern of mine with the live edge siding. In 30 + years what will be the result? It could have a lot to do with the species as well. Some species like cedar have a very small sap wood ring, but white pine has a larger ring and that for sure will go south quickly. I cut mine with a true edge and even then I am culling out the sappy ones. Full 1/2" thick x5" or 6" wide.
Tim
Cheyenne,
Mine is full 1" or 1 1/16th". My window trim and corner boards are 2 3/4" or 3" x 4". It was kind of like bolting a 4x4 at the windows and corners ::). This did allow for hidding the stainless toe screwed fasteners. I was soo fearful of "bleeding" of ANYTHING steel, even though they were all hidden (even under the lap), that I insisted on stainless throughout. Haven't bled yet ;D. As for rot of sapwood, never seen it locally on ANY flitch siding even ones w/ "differed maintainence" ::) Certainly isn't occuring on mine.
ironWOOD