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Advice on a Sharpener and Setter

Started by Simon3380, February 02, 2017, 10:45:37 PM

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Simon3380

I've got a Woodmizer LT40 Super Hydraulic that I've been doing some part time sawing with for others and myself for about a year now. Based on everything I've read and heard I think I should be changing my blades way more often than I do. The problem is everytime I'm sawing I just think of having to package up the blades, send them out, pay a few bucks, and then wait to get them back so it just makes me hesitate a bit too much before actually changing the blade. So, in my mind, this justifies getting a sharpener and setter... right??? Anyway, like I mentioned, I'm not high volume but I am the type of person that would rather save up and spend a few more bucks to get something quality than buy something cheap just to get a job done and I would say that if there is a way for me to do something myself than I usually lean that way in the decision process. What I'm hoping for is input on what I should be looking for from people with some sharpening experience. I was looking at the Woodmizer BMST50 and the Cook's Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. Looks like about $550 difference in price and by what I've read it sounds like they both make good products and would do the job (and both sponsors of the forum), just wondering what people think would be best for my situation. Or what peoples experience has been with either or both or any other sharpener for that matter. Thank in advance for your input!
Garbage in, garbage out

paul case

I have an old WM drag style sharpener. It works well for me. I got it with a mill.

I started out sharpening my own bands with the sharpener that EZ Boardwalk makes. It works well and is easy to learn as well as being much cheaper. To find it just click on their logo in the column on the left of this page.

Good luck!

PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Peter Drouin

Get a WM CBN sharpener and setter, CBM uses oil to cool and no dressing the rock.
I started with a WM drag with my first and 2# mill. When I got my Supper I went to the 1¼x55x7 blades. I'd have to dress the rock on every blade.
The CBN is like day and night Best thing I did. A lot of $$ but, the quality of the blade being sharp is outstanding, there's no way a rock will keep up with the way I was using it. One CBN wheel will do 600 + blades, You might get more, I grind heavy. ;D
And the WM setter is fast, When you get good with it setting and sharpening a box of ten blades. In an hour.


  

 
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

bandmiller2

Simon, theirs little doubt the WM-CBN grinder is the cat's pooper and worth the cost if you sharpen a lot of bands. The Cats Claw is a proven platform that will last just short of forever. Your a young man and if your going to stay milling you can pay off the equipment and start saving real money. The cat is adaptable and you could pay it off sooner by sharpening bands for other sawyers. Get a good setter. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

tacks Y

Pete, Will your setter reduce over set teeth? I have a used TK that came with 40 used blades. I am finding many over set on one side or both. I have some with a odd tooth count ( 1 short or 1 to many). These are NOT TK bands, but can not find a name on them.   I have 1 new TK band and it is set .015 heavy on the one side. The odd tooth count would not be bad but they did such a good job cleaning up the weld I can not find it sometimes. See the problem? It would be nice to not have to dress the wheel. I made a desetter and mounted it to the setter (manual). I use it to pull the band through.  Simon, I would look for a setter that removes over set. I like the coolant on my WM grinder, that being said I just got a Wright grinder that runs dry. Have not tried it yet. This stuff takes room to run and store also.   

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Simon3380

Peter, looks like you've got the BMS250 and BMT250 combo. That's a little over $4600 on the WM website and that is a bit out of my price range. I think I could make up to maybe $2500 work. I've been looking for used ones too for a little bit and could just try to wait it out but I'm not sure how long I'm want to wait. I'm planning on kicking off a timber frame project this spring so I'm looking to get the Makita saw and chain mortiser and I have to save a little money for that too. The WM BMST50 is well within my budget at about $1600 but I'm not sure that is going to be adique. They are CBN with oil cooling and it has a double setter. I'm a little hesitant because there hasn't been much talk about them on here or anywhere on the internet since they came out a couple years ago.

Quote from: tacks Y on February 03, 2017, 08:03:10 AM
This stuff takes room to run and store also.   

That's why I need timber frame workshop. It's a vicious cycle, the more stuff I need the more room I need, the more room I need the stuff I need...
Garbage in, garbage out

Peter Drouin

Do what you can, The point is go with a CBN Time saved will pay you big $$ in the end.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

tacks Y

I just tried the new to me Wright, (no coolant) seems fine and nice heavy motors. Problem is it came with a LM3 mill and should have a C-23 or C-18 cam. Has a C-16 and the cams are $161 each. So now I am reworking the cam, almost done. I have not done much but like the idea of a setter that will correct over set. The manual 2 tooth Suffolk is fine for me.

pineywoods

The OLD wm drag sharpener and single tooth setter can usually be picked up used pretty reasonable. I converted mine to cbn and the setter to dual tooth. Pics in my gallery and posts on here somewhere. So far I have resisted the temptation to sharpen for others.. ::)
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: Simon3380 on February 03, 2017, 09:31:55 PM
Peter, looks like you've got the BMS250 and BMT250 combo.
Not so, his are the previous versions (Shop Series, grinder is the LTAGA-CBN).   I just saw they reduced the price of the BMS250 to $1895. Some of the prices on their web page today are clearly incorrect, I would recommend calling in to see what the BMS250/BMT250 combo, and the BMT250 correct prices are.

I now own the BMS250/BMT250 combination. My upgrade from the Shop Series grinder/setter started as a desire to have gauges on my setter.  I would recommend strongly to anyone that having gauges on the setter is a big time saver. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

tacks Y

Pineywoods, When you went to a cbn did you change to a ac motor also? Is this why you are grinding the cam on one of you pics?

4x4American

The Wright's are supposta be pretty good.  There's a forum member on here out of Keeseville NY who used to sell them I'm not sure if he still does or not but I could look into it if you were interested.  I asked a sawfiler on friday why they didn't use CBN's.  His response was that CBN's are for more precision stuff, the old turn of the 19th century plunge grinders are proven and that's what they use and have no plans to upgrade.  I think the CBN would be a lot less of a learning curve and be more accurate, but it all comes down to $$.  Plus a plunge grinder is more versatile and cheaper.  You can change the hook angle by moving the head whereas on a cbn you have to buy a new wheel for each profile.  I have a cam for my grinder from forum member Cutting Edge and it does 4 different profile that I know of so far.  I had $75/cbn wheel in my head for some reason, not sure what they cost.  The rocks I buy well I think I got 5 for under $100 a week or two ago
Boy, back in my day..

tacks Y

I am using a Wright side by side with an old WM drag. Not sure why these are referred to as drag and not push. My 2 cents worth and that is all it is worth. The wright is twice the machine of the WM, but it grinds dry and the wheel wears faster. The WM has been around a few blocks before I got it, the wheel wear w/coolant is not bad. WM runs their own 12V motors and on mine the feed motor is the weak link. Wright runs motors I can buy off Ebay.   

Dewey

I have a Wright sharpener and a Suffolk setter  been using it for 15+ years....  I saw full time and sharpen and set all blades . I've been happy with the Combo but I think I am going to upgrade soon... other than 1 small bearing all I have had to replace is the grind rock a couple time a year

4x4American

I will add a cbn sharpener in the next year or five.  Still going to keep my Cook's, just going to buy one of the ones forum member Cutting Edge is building.  Supposed to be built like a tank and engineered like a rocket ship.  Built by sawyers for sawyers.
Boy, back in my day..

pineywoods

Quote from: tacks Y on February 04, 2017, 09:48:55 PM
Pineywoods, When you went to a cbn did you change to a ac motor also? Is this why you are grinding the cam on one of you pics?

Yeah, I went with a 3600 rpm AC motor. The little stock 12 volt dc motor just didn't have the oomph to pull the cbn wheel. You need a different cam profile. I made my own by trial and error.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

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