Watcha Makin'?

[Machinebuilder]

for a train buff the Cass Excursion is special. 

They are using Shay locomotives which are a gear driven system that were used for the tight turns on logging railways.

I've been thru Cass but not taken the train ride. I can not find any pictures easily.

[Wlmedley]

I've got my work bench pretty well finished and built a shelf and got it hung. Moved most of my woodworking tools in one place and think it will be fine for the stuff I make. The building I'm using was built to house a boat I no longer have but now I keep my SxS in it. The SxS doesn't take up nearly as much room as the boat did so I decided to put the extra room to good use. I've been doing most of my projects outside which works out pretty good in good weather being sawdust stays outside and I can see a lot better but this will be nice in the winter.

[21incher]

Christmas gifts. First time in the shop since last spring and fired the laser up with an AI generated Santa picture.  Some backyard cherry for frames. Quick easy project for presents. 

[aigheadish]

Looks good 21!

I'm working on my first few attempts at bandsaw boxes. I just got a 1/8" blade, so I'm hoping to make much tighter turns, once I get that put on the saw. My first attempt or two hasn't gone that well, but we'll see how it goes. I don't seem to get the same quality cuts from my saw as the guys on youtube. Maybe just more practice.

I have a question about that- For a higher quality bandsaw cut do I want a higher blade speed or lower? I didn't know if but my saw has 2 speeds. I know on my planer the higher speed gives a nicer finish but I don't know if I should be slowing down for a nicer cut on the bandsaw?

[Wlmedley]

Built a rolling platform to put my jointer on. It makes a pretty big mess so my plan is to roll it to the open garage door when ever I use it. That way I can blow the shavings off of it after use and I don't have to clean up the entire floor. I tried it out today and it rolls really good but I didn't think about it rolling when I run a board through it. Should have bought wheels with brakes on them but I didn't. Now to figure out how to make it stay put while using it. Any ideas?

[SwampDonkey]

Might consider these two ideas.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/casters-and-wheels/110198-workbench-casters?item=03J2510

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/casters-and-wheels/110298-mobile-base-kit?item=03J2506

[doc henderson]

a bolt on each corner to screw down to the floor and act like little feet and for the most part, lift the casters off the floor.

[Resonator]

When I drove flatbed semi, some of the factories I'd load out of would have portable metal stairways to climb on top of loads to tarp them. They used a spring loaded bar that you would step down to lift the stairs slightly, and keep them from rolling. Maybe a similar step-down brake could be fabricated.

[Old Greenhorn]

I like Doc's Idea. My planer has wheels with no brakes. I push the planer until all the wheels are pointed the same way, then lay a 1/4" think strip in front of each pair of wheels. Not great, but quick and easy. I put locking wheels on the double drum sander based on the planer issues. Another option is making small cups to roll it up onto for each wheel. The wheel sets ina  shallow cavity in the cup and won't move much.

[beenthere]

Idea 1st to my mind is put locking wheels on it.  

[Hilltop366]

Lots of youtube vids of DIY retracting castors, basically they are a hinged base so that you can put down the wheels to move the tool base or work bench around then retract the wheels to let it sit on the floor. I made some for a planer and table saw.

Here is one:

[Brad_bb]

Don't forget the new retracting casters that came out in the last 6 months or so.  I've got 2 sets of the heavier duty ones on the way.
Smart Retractable casters

[aigheadish]

I have a much smaller jointer that sits on an old beat up factory cart that has no brakes. To keep it from rolling i put one of my feet in the way.

[doc henderson]

I rarely move my bigger stuff, and my planer sits on a pallet.  if I need to move it, I get the pallet jack.  I almost said if I want to move it.  but I never want to move it.

[21incher]

Looks good 21!

I'm working on my first few attempts at bandsaw boxes. I just got a 1/8" blade, so I'm hoping to make much tighter turns, once I get that put on the saw. My first attempt or two hasn't gone that well, but we'll see how it goes. I don't seem to get the same quality cuts from my saw as the guys on youtube. Maybe just more practice.

I have a question about that- For a higher quality bandsaw cut do I want a higher blade speed or lower? I didn't know if but my saw has 2 speeds. I know on my planer the higher speed gives a nicer finish but I don't know if I should be slowing down for a nicer cut on the bandsaw?

I think the biggest obstacle with small blades is the number of teeth in the wood when dealing with thicker stock used in boxes. You need a blade that will carry the sawdust out so it can properly follow the pattern. You may want to contact a blade company and see the grind they recommend for your application.  Speed for wood is usually  higher and metal lower but alot depends on the blade fpm cut rating.

[Wlmedley]

Austin, I think your idea is the ultimate definition of keep it simple. I like it but have already tried it and it didn't work very well for me. I've already spent more time building the thing than I probably should have as I'm bad about overkill on anything I do. Probably go with Doc or OGH's ideas as they wouldn't cost anything and the wheels I put on it aren't coming back off .I used threaded inserts and 1/4" bolts. I may just cut some wedges and keep them with the machine and wedge it in place whenever I use it. That would be like having 4 feet to stick under it.

[Ljohnsaw]

Or make chocks in a U shape that block the front and back of the wheel at the same time?

[aigheadish]

I've only tried using the foot technique for some small pieces. Anything with length I've got to move the jointer to the bench and clamp it down. 

[Wlmedley]

Problem solved. Found a poplar 2"x6" over in the woodshed and cut four wedges.I even ran them through the jointer so they would be smooth. A little  tap with my foot and the jointer is as solid as Sears. Maybe I should have said solid as Walmart but you get the idea. Store them under machine on platform. Didn't cost anything and should last as long as I do.

[aigheadish]

Great solution and you still get to use your feet! 

I was just doing some drum sanding on my drill press and rather than lock the poor brakes on it I pressed my thigh up against it as I pulled the wood towards me. Worked pretty well. If I locked the brakes on things in my shop every time I used something I'd get no work done just turning on and off brakes. My shop is too small. 

[aigheadish]

I'm attempting to make some bandsaw boxes... As per usual, I'm frustrated.

Is sanding life?

Granted my sander options are somewhat limited. I've got a delta 4/6" belt/disc sander that doesn't have enough power (it's easy to stop the belt while sanding on it), then I've got a normal handheld belt sander, then drum sanders on my drill press, and orbital sanders. I guess there are a bunch of options but it seems like none are ideal.

I've cut out a few boxes now, the amount of saw marks left over are nuts and sanding them out is taking forever. It feels like I'm doing something wrong, so maybe I just need another opinion and to keep trying.

I'm also using bubinga, I think, or whatever it is seems crazy hard.

Is sanding life? The sand paper I'm using is all fresh, but may be poor quality, I don't know. It's also low grit, like 80 or 100.



This is after sanding for like half an hour with the drum sander.





Should I expect the saw marks and just deal with it? I just watched a video showing using the back of the blade to help make a smoother finish cut but that was after I did all of the above and I'm sure it'll take lots of practice to get that right.

Also, even though there is a ton of light there isn't enough light. I need to start working on the sun.

[doc henderson]

I think it would wear me out trying to sand in a direction the does not roll the tool.  lock the brakes so you can relax and use the tool.  going from coarse to fine grit is the key.  cheap sandpaper just does not las t as long, but when in school I always bought the cheapest I could.  Is the drum small enough to get into the inside radius?  I halfway define the shape on my drum sander.  is the band saw table square to the blade?  looks like the sander is getting part of the saw marks.  Is that pine in contrast to your exotic hardwood?  Sanding may help you define the meaning of life, like painting a fence for the guy in Karate Kid. 

[For Veeva Review] Candid Moms - April Video 2

[Resonator]

I might try a coarser grit (test an area first) then move finer. Another tip make sure the sand paper isn't loading up. I use compressed air, but I have seen soft rubber blocks used to clean belts while running too. 

[beenthere]

As suggested, course sand paper first like 80. Then move to 100 to remove any marks left by the 80. Then move to 220 to remove any marks left by the 100. Then if any marks left, move to a finer sandpaper. Keep going until there are no more marks left, but often not seen until applying a finish. At that time, it is too late. 

The final finish shows how much effort has been put into sanding.

[GAB]

If you sand long enough there will not be any need for finish.
GAB