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I just got home with a 2011 LT35HD - I need your counsel on how to succeed.

Started by MikeySP, January 30, 2019, 05:14:30 PM

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Jim_Rogers

If I scan a customer's log and don't find a nail and hit it he still pays for the blade. And usually my time to scan it.
No guarantees ever. And no transfer of responsibility.
And I let them know that up front.

If he uses my metal detector and finds and pulls a nail I don't charge him for using my metal detector or nail pulling tools.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Southside

I do the same thing Jim, basically I tell them I am trying to reduce the potential of an issue but can't guarantee the results. With oak if I see blue stain I will tell them there is a good chance that it has metal and let them decide if they want to take the risk, then scan for sure. Works many times, but not all. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

YellowHammer

I've had people suggest that since I scanned their log with my metal detector, it was my fault if I hit a nail and they shouldn't have to pay for the band. Wrong.  So I don't use a detector. 

When logs are suspicious I always mill the butt logs last so I can get through the job pretty streamlined without dealing with metal randomly. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WV Sawmiller

   I'm with YH. (Did I really just say that? :D) Avoid the controversy and just tell the customer plain and simple "The customer is responsible if there is metal or other foreign objects in the wood and will be assessed a band charge accordingly."
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

MikeySP

Question, when you get a beep, or the customer does, is the procedure for the owner of log to trim it if on end, or decide to risk it?

Magicman

I have three metal detectors but I do not use them.  They are for the customer's use if he chooses to.  My time is spent sawing not scanning.  Metal strike blades are $25 each.

I have two chainsaws and any bucking or trimming is done by me, not the customer.  I saw my "nose" in the dirt too many times to allow it now.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

terrifictimbersllc

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

MikeySP

Hope everyone's weekend went well. What do you gents communicate with your customer so they are ready for sawing day?

Things that come to my mind:

  • Sawing Hours (10): arrive 630am (sunrise is 645), lunch noon for 30 min, stop sawing at 5PM to perform maintenance and refit for following day.
  • Since he is leaving the lumber where we saw it, I thought it might be wise to prepare him to sticker and stack as he off bears the lumber. 
  • Advise him to get 3/4" sheets of ply and cut them to 3/4 width. 
  • Advise how to calculate how many, so he is ready. I figured approx 250 stickers (2.5 sheets of plywood) for a 3ft wide, 4ft tall, 12ft long stack of lumber if cut to 1" thick and 150 stckers if 2" lumber.
  • Advise to make sufficient length, level, elevated platforms for the stacks with supports every 16" for stacking the lumber on.
  • Advise how to air dry so they can get it done asap.
  • Do I need to get a 5 gallon bucket of anchorseal since logs have set for 6 months?\

He is 1:20 minutes away (70 miles). I plan to leave the machine there, unless it looks shady. Do you get a place locally or do you drive home when at that distance?

He already knows he will be off bearing, rolling logs onto loading arms. I will aid him with any heavy slabs. 

Thank you. -Mike


 

terrifictimbersllc

Establish your own ways of doing business, for sure, but this is what I do, which is what you asked.

Make sure logs are ready. Unless you visit to make sure, I don't, you can only carry this to a certain point.  I charge hourly and emphasize the things that will make the job do-able, and save the customer time ($$).

I have a standard starting time of 7:30 am.  If the customer asks about how long we work, most don't, I tell them we'll play it by ear.  In the end if we can get it done in a heroic day that's what we do, especially if at a distance.  Otherwise we may split it into two more reasonable days.  I would ask the customer if he wanted to start at 6:45 am, not tell him. That's a bit early and there may be issues with noise that early. Just saying.

Other things I make sure to emphasize in advance is how many helpers are needed and whether a machine is needed.  How heavy are the boards you'll be making and whether you want to be helping carry them or not.  Some customers have no idea, they will want to make 200-400 pound boards and when you cut the first one, you are wondering where his machine and helpers are, and he is doing his learnings.  Well, not if you covered this in advance. I've arrived to a stack of huge logs and a 75 year old workaholic come out of the house, talking about moving things with a come-along.   :o :o :o  And realizing that it's just the two of us for the day.

Yes advise on air drying in advance.  I wouldn't get into stickering and anchor sealing the customer's lumber. Have them order Anchorseal themselves and trim and end coat the logs before you arrive.  Or if you visit in advance sell them some of it then.  

I strongly dislike the prospect of customer stickering wood as we saw, or helping him do that.  It takes much longer unless he's set up the platforms already within a few feet of the mill.  Sometimes the customer wants to carry boards across the yard one at a time while we saw.  Yikes.  Give me a sedative.  If I pick up on that in advance I tell him that it is best to saw all the wood then dead stack it right next to the mill.  It needs to be sorted by length at least.  Stacking lumber should be a careful thoughtful process. And customers almost never know how to arrange a proper platform without instruction. The last thing I want to hear is "pallets".    I send them an article on air drying wood in advance,  and tell them it is best to do the stacking afterwards, on their own time, with a helper. Not during the sawing day.

For sticker material I recommend telling them to buy furring strips- these are 8' 1x3's at home depot). Sometimes people find 8' 1x2's those are great as is.  If they have 1x3's on hand rip them down the center on the mill 6 at a time for them at the end of the job.  Or cut wet stickers if sticker stain doesnt matter.  I don't know about using plywood.  Sounds expensive.

If his logs aren't anchorsealed in advance I wouldn't do this right before you saw.  It will be a wet waxy mess. Tell him to trim the ends of the lumber as he stacks.  Or you trim the ends before you saw, and tell him to get it end coated within the next day.

At 70 miles, job the next day after a long day,  I find a motel.  Leaving the mill is usually fine if at customer property or out of sight.  You have to judge this.  If you work a long day and start early it would take an enterprising thief to bother it overnight.  I don't worry about this.  I do take my fuel container with me and pick up all my hand tools.  If leaving dull blades, spare tire I chain these to the mill.  At the motel I lock my truck boxes and put some tools in the cab sometimes.  Never have had a problem.  

Again you need to establish the way you work.  Be patient and take it a job at a time. For the most part, things go great. 


DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

WV Sawmiller

    TT is spot on with his comments. 

   As to the 70 miles that is up to you. If you have to drive 45 minutes from the sawing site to a hotel, as is common in places I saw, you might as well go home. You need to work that out in advance as well as who is paying for the hotel.

    As to security that should be addressed very early. Is the mill behind a locked gate or in sight of his house or otherwise secured? I lock my mill and try to leave a log on the mill to inconvenience any thieves. I also take the fuel tank with me and stop and get it filled before I return the next day. Same with the lube tank. I take all hand tools with me every day as well as all bands. I never leave a band on the mill except when I am there and fixing to use it. 

   I take a cooler with a sandwich and piece of fruit with plenty of water and gatorade. I eat light when sawing or I will have to stop and hunt a  bushy spot - which is sometimes not readily available. I always take TP and a shovel in case I need to dig a cathole. 

   I am almost anal about describing how the logs should be staged and that is my number one expectation from a customer. He should know that everything should be set up so you can commence sawing within 10-15 minutes of your arrival. Let him know if he wants to sticker as he stacks to bring extra help so he does not slow you down. I describe dunnage and stickers and it is up to him to provide unless he wants you to cut them as the first things off the saw and I have had customers have me do that.

   I'd tell him end sealing the logs or lumber is up to him. You can offer to sell him some anchorseal if you like. The last I bought was about $25/gallon my cost for 5 gallons delivered here. If the logs have set 6 months I doubt sealing is going to help much unless you are cutting a cookie off the ends to get to fresh wood. If you are he should be paying for your time and materials for that too. 

   By all means tell him a start and lunch time and he needs to be there ready to work then. If I tell him 7:30 I'm probably going to be there at 7:00-7:15. Prepping and cleaning the mill is done done on my time when sawing by the BF. If not you need to let him know when the clock starts for charges. Lunch is usually around mid day and based around completion of sawing a log or such. I tell them I plan to saw as long as there is light to saw unless other arrangements are made. I stop when I'm done or when there is barely enough light for me to clean, cover and secure the mill for the night. 

   Before I ever start sawing I do a safety brief with everyone who will be working around the mill and I warn them about the high risk areas and I stop sawing immediately if someone steps into one of them. I discuss log and board handling safety, debarker direction and show them the sawdust chute and advise "if" a blade breaks that is likely were it will come out. I also tell them not to touch a board until all sawing is finished and I am on my way back to the front of the mill. I shut off the blade at the end of each cut.

   As TT says, each job is different and you need to be flexible as each job. customer and conditions will be different. I hate to say no but I don't want to be taken advantage of either. Generally at the end of the day my customers tell me how much they enjoyed the process. That is what I want. Good luck.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

YellowHammer

These are great tips from experienced pros, I am impressed with the detail obviously learned from sweat and experience.

When I work with customers (more and more rare) at our place, the one thing they mostly have in common is how excited they are in the morning and how fast they burn out of energy and start dragging.  :D :D 

So my advice is just run the saw, have fun, and be aware of everything.  Try to make it fun, safe and productive for both you and the customer.     
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

MikeySP

Thanks very much for all the experience and details Terriffic Timbers and WV Sawmiller. This was exactly what I was trying to discern through. Excellent!

The 75 year old workaholic with a come-a-long for log handling had me in tears.  

btulloh

What's the date for this job?  The anticipation is killin' me.  :)
HM126

MikeySP

WV when you said saw dunnage, did you mean wood for stacking platforms? 

I have read of a bunch of different air drying techniques, do you have a particular article you pass on to the customer?  Currently, the concurrent points appear to be: 
1. Off ground 
2. Level
3. Stack by even length.
3. 3/4"-1" air gap between layers
4. Cover from direct sun/rain
5. Use weight or straps to resist twisting/cupping during the drying cycle. 

Other ideas that I do not know how to evaluate:
1. Have stack off ground at least 4" in one article to 18"in popular woodworking's article.
2. For cover, I see in one case where a live edge slab log is just reassembled with stickers and left to dry with no cover other than the scrap bark that was cut off initially.
3. Stack in open area where wind/sun can get to it. 
4. Double sticker or wide sticker the ends of the stacks to slow down drying in those locations. 

I want to give my customer good advice, but I don't want to spend his resources -time and money.

If you would share a link to what you send your customers, It would be much appreciated. Or do you share the basics and tell them to look at their wood usage area and search online for the practice that best meets their use/industry - eg fine woodworking vs rough carpentry. 

Btulloh, 4-6 April, weather permitting. While, I would like to be doing it today in one sense, I am very glad I have a week. I am using this time to get my act together with a mission focus. 

-Mike


btulloh

Quote from: MikeySP on March 26, 2019, 09:38:17 AMBtulloh, 4-6 April, weather permitting. While, I would like to be doing it today in one sense, I am very glad I have a week. I am using this time to get my act together with a mission focus. 


Roger that.  You're getting a lot of good advice.  I think you'll do fine.  I'm looking forward to hearing of your success.
HM126

WV Sawmiller

   Yes, when I say dunnage I mean the wood to stack on so they can get forks underneath them. Sometimes if the customer is wanting 2X4s cut he just has me cut some of them first and uses them to stack on. Yes, you want the lumber off the ground 6-12 inches is much better than 4". Sticker close to each end to reduce checking. I don't double sticker but would not hurt. I stack on 2' centers or closer. Many people stack on 16-18 inch centers. All stickers should be aligned directly over each other. Out of direct sunlight to reduce fading and too rapid drying/checking but with good air flow is better.

   The best circumstances would be under an open sided shed with good air flow and such that no rain can blow in, a foot or so off the ground on a level concrete pad and stickered every 16" with dry stickers and stacks on stacks and weight on the top stack. You probably aren't going to have that so do the best you can under the customer's circumstances.

   The tops should be covered from the rain but be sure the air can flow through. Be sure the customer does not completely cover his stack with a tarp stopping the air flow or it will rot and mold and do so pretty quickly. I never stack over 4' wide and prefer 3' or less. Be sure your stacks are not wider than your customer's forks/pallets/skids or he will have trouble moving the stacks.  I like weight on top. I do not strap them but after having to re-stack my last pallet of basswood 2 days ago I will likely strap temporarily before moving again. Stacks on stacks is good for weight where possible and can be done safely. I try to stack all stacks the same thickness and length. In addition to easier and more consistent drying it is a lot easier to tally the amount of lumber you cut and for the customer to see how much he has on hand. Level is better but the main thing is straight. I tell customers if they stack with a hump or dip in a stack every board will dry with that same hump or dip. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on March 26, 2019, 02:53:34 PMBe sure the customer does not completely cover his stack with a tarp stopping the air flow or it will rot and mold and do so pretty quickly.
Tell a customer you don't even want to hear the word "tarp".   Maybe as a ground cover. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

MikeySP

WV Sawmiller and TerrifficTimbersLLC, thank you kindly for shedding some light. I was thinking in the right direction mostly, but it is most helpful to get some clarification to bring everything into focus. 


Here are a couple of outstanding questions in my head:


  • When you men are sawing a log into lumber, what do you consider good for tolerances? +/- what fraction of an inch?
  • For you Woodmizer folks, what are MUST have spare parts to go portable, even if you just changed everything?
  • The first time I used my mill was at my friends house and when the board had a bow lifting it off the deck, he had me push down on it when clamping to get a straight board. I have had some fat and skinny bellied boards when sawing by myself. How do you handle this?

Thank you. 

-Mike



YellowHammer

I don't saw portable but I consider anything over 1/8" thick or thin an issue that need to be addressed.  If its a stress problem, I miss sawed it, and I will be more aware.  Proper sawing technique will help, but not always, alleviate this.  

If thick and thins are an alignment issue due to a crash, it need to be remedied.

Must have parts Woodmizer part for me, (not including other generic parts like wrenches, blades, diesel spray, etc) always in my cabinet are new B57's in case a broken blade cuts one.  A set of blade guide rollers, because if you ever notch one, it will tear up every band you put on it.  Easy field fix if you have them in hand.  Set of heavy duty cutters to cut a broken band out.  Wedges and hammers.  I've had to replace enough hydraulic pump relays to have a spare on hand, always.

Blade guide alignment tool.

Basically any tool needed to do a quick on site alignment check if something bad happens.

There are LOTS of spare parts needed to keep a mill running, but most everything else would be a bring it home fix.





YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

GAB

Quote from: MikeySP on March 28, 2019, 09:54:22 AM
WV Sawmiller and TerrifficTimbersLLC, thank you kindly for shedding some light. I was thinking in the right direction mostly, but it is most helpful to get some clarification to bring everything into focus.


Here are a couple of outstanding questions in my head:


  • When you men are sawing a log into lumber, what do you consider good for tolerances? +/- what fraction of an inch?
  • For you Woodmizer folks, what are MUST have spare parts to go portable, even if you just changed everything?
  • The first time I used my mill was at my friends house and when the board had a bow lifting it off the deck, he had me push down on it when clamping to get a straight board. I have had some fat and skinny bellied boards when sawing by myself. How do you handle this?

Thank you.

-Mike
Mike:
I'm not familiar with the LT35 so the following may or may not apply to your mill, mine is an LT40.
I'd order some spare fuses as I have had to replace some.
On mine the adjustable blade guide arm had a spring pin that holds the gear in position that drives the arm in and out.  I have replaced that small spring pin more than once.  The last time I replaced the gear for the one with two set screws.
I'd recommend not trying to align a log by moving/sliding it once it is on the loader arms with a peavey or other equipment.  I did and I broke the hydraulic line flow limiter and it shut me down for a week.  I have since modified my mill to avoid any further similar occurence of this failure.
I have a tool box that has mill alignment tools, spare parts and when I go mobile the box comes along.  Hope not to need it and also hope that if I need it what I need is in it.
If you have a lubemizer system, like I do, carry some 2 and 4 amp blade style fuses for it.
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

terrifictimbersllc

Some of the precautions depend on how far from home you will be going, how bad it would be if you just have to pack up and go home.  Also when your mill is new you don't need spare wear items right away, but you might want things you can break.

What was said above, and i also carry

-spare hydraulic hoses (had to use one yesterday), one of each kind on the mill, 1/4 & 3/8 male-male JIC fittings to pull a new hose connected to an old one
-velocity fuses for loader cylinders
-one of every belt except the drive belt
-battery terminals
-bolts/nuts that hold on your jacks, isn't hard to shear one off and the bolts all break, also assortment of other nuts, washers & smaller bolts. Spare of all the bolts that hold your guide roller assembly on, the vertical ones may break when something is thrown off the blade
-spare master link for roller chain and the in/out blade guide chain
-glow plug fuse if diesel, and any engine fuses otherwise
-light bulbs if your mill uses them
-switches including the feed and up down drum switches
-spare tire
-extra fittings both hose side and tank side that are on your gas tank
-lubemizer tubing , the 1/4" od stuff, isn't hard to rip it in two
-digital volt meter with probes and clamp on leads, light & heavy gauge jumper wires (alligator clips on either end) for diagnosing, electrical kit with ring,  M & F spade terminals, butt connectors, torch, flux, solder also very handy
-hydraulic oil & clean funnel for it
-grease gun & extra grease tube
-extra track connectors if you have a cat track

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

WV Sawmiller

   Good suggestions on the spares. I mostly just take the spare belts and tools to replace them. I take a pretty good set of hand tools. One of the most important tools is the WM phone number -if you have cell service at the site that can be a life saver. I take my maintenance manual, cell phone and phone numbers to every job. Take plenty of business cards and give them to every busybody who stops by. I put a 1/4" international log rule on the back of mine and I and the customers find that handy. I keep a tow cable and chain in my truck and have been known to drag a log or two although I don't advertise that. I have taken snatch blocks and long cables and loaned them to good customers and showed them how to drag a log or two down or back they thought was lost. I let them use their vehicles and such for that. I take a leaf blower to clean the mill while sawing as needed and sometimes to help clean up the site at the end of the day - extra service for good customers. I take a chain saw and related tools, fuel and bar oil. I take a small calculator as well as my laptop to do the math. Good luck.

Edit/Add-on: Oh yeah, on the thick and thin from stress the normal practice when you see that is to flip the cant, cut a trim cut, resume sawing. If you get more stress flip and repeat. There are many threads and probably some good videos on this issue out there you might want to review.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

MikeySP

Great, 1/8" rough sawn is a good tolerance. I am trying to be a machinist. When I see stacks of lumber in the photos they look like they are 1/32" and I look at mine and :(. 

YH, what does crash mean?:
"If thick and thins are an alignment issue due to a crash, it need to be remedied."

This is great men. Lots of experience when you think of a male-male Jic fititng to pull the new hose through. I am noting all the spare parts recommended. I will not hit the mark on this first job, but I will try to get as close I can. 

Not sure what "Velocity" fuses are, but I will get in the manual for that today. 

TTLLC, when you say bolts for jacks, do you mean the bolts that hold the outriggers to the mill? If this it the case, wow, that is a lot of force to shear that. 

WV Sawmiller, no kidding on the woodmizer tele. I discovered soemmthing yesterday, We have a poro signal here, so I walk a hundred meters from sawmill, talk to tech and go back. But I can't look at mill while talking to tech. I saw my 8ft paint ladder and sat on it while look at mill, better. Then, I realized, the bluetoothe headset my son gifeted me can reach fromt he mill to the top of a ladder, so I called tech from ladder, set the phone on top and went over to mill and talked while looking. The evolution of experiential learning in one day. :)

I will do alittle reading and watching for cutting stressed logs. Thanks for the tip and explanation. That makes sense.

YH, we are scheduled for Next Thur, Fri, and Sat, 4, 5, and 6 April. 

I have another smaller job that fell into my lap this week, but I want to take this time to rehearse, prep, tune, develop procedures, etc... 

This morning, after ordering a couple items, I will be testing my saw after a complete alignment (last two days) and cutting an oak beam for my sons office.

Isn't it funny, I thought that I could learn all I needed in a week  :D. It all looks so easy, log, saw back and forth, wood, done.  :o

You men are very kind. Thank you!

-Mike





doc henderson

most of us have learned as we go.  you need a bit of both, advice and experience, I am glad you are adding the experience.  I think crash means a violent blade break in a bind or running into something that stops the mill, and after this the mill is not right.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

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