Blade diving after sharpening !

[LeeB]

By my reckoning, you aren't using a SS cam. You are using a modified cam. I have quite a few different cams and none of them are original. I've modified all at them at some time or the other.

[ARp]

Vfauto

You may be right about the cam.  Sorry!

I found a little trick on zeroing out the dial indicators.  Rather than using the setting lever to zero, just grab the indicator blocks and bring them together with your hand.  That keeps the setter from bending the wrong tooth. 

The manual beats the video for setup.  After the machine is setup, each blade will require adjustments.

ARp

[Sam H]

Timber kings are notorious for not cutting straight. Most likely your band wheels and/or guides need to be adjusted. I've heard several people having tks badly misaligned right out of the factory.

[ladylake]

 No need to bash TK or any company, any mill not adjusted right won't cut straight and some might get out of the factory not  perfect as with any company.  Both TK and WM set their mills with only 1/8" down pressure while Cooks recommends 1/4" which I run as I can saw straighter and faster with 1/4" down pressure. The reason I asked the OP about down pressure.  Another thing on a TK mill it might take 1/2 hour to get everything perfect and if I bought any new mill that's the first thing I'd do.  Kinda like chainsaws, I'm not running a new before I make sure the carb is adjusted right. Steve

[vfauto]

As stated in the original post it was a sharpened blade and when I put a new blade on it worked great, so cutting up TK was unnecessary.

Timber kings are notorious for not cutting straight. Most likely your band wheels and/or guides need to be adjusted. I've heard several people having tks badly misaligned right out of the factory.

[vfauto]

Being new at this I am not sure what down pressure is or how to adjust it. Please advise.

No need to bash TK or any company, any mill not adjusted right won't cut straight and some might get out of the factory not  perfect as with any company.  Both TK and WM set their mills with only 1/8" down pressure while Cooks recommends 1/4" which I run as I can saw straighter and faster with 1/4" down pressure. The reason I asked the OP about down pressure.  Another thing on a TK mill it might take 1/2 hour to get everything perfect and if I bought any new mill that's the first thing I'd do.  Kinda like chainsaws, I'm not running a new before I make sure the carb is adjusted right. Steve

[ladylake]

 Locate your saw head so the blade is right over one of the bunks and measure from the bottom of the blade down to the bunk with your moveable  guide all the way open. Measure near both  guide wheels on the inside, then loosen up both guide wheels and raise above the blade and measure again, the difference would be the down pressure your mill was set at.  After that lower both  guide wheels until they push the blade down 1/4".   Also when you have the guide wheels above the blade measure from the bottom of the blade to the bunk to make sure your big wheels are level with the deck. When setting down pressure with the guide wheels all the way apart make sure the blade stays level with the bunk all the way across.  Then run the movable guide in some making sure it's running parallel to the log bunk.   Do all the adjustments with the blade tensioned.   Steve

[Jim_Rogers]

I thought that WM recommended 1/4" down pressure on it's blade guides. That is what I think mine is set at.

When we picked up my mill, we were shown/trained how to saw with it before we left the dealers. It cut straight and true that day and has ever since. Even with all the blade guide bearing changes I have made.

To set or check your blade guide bearings you need to start with a sharp "new" blade. They recommend backing off your blade guides until the blade, when tensioned up, goes from drive wheel to  idle wheel without touching the blade guides. And you should know or have the mill set over a bed rail so you can measure up from the bed rail to the blade. I think WM recommends something like 12 or 15" above the rail.

Then you lower the blade guides so that the guide is pushing the blade down 1/4" from the original position. They need to be nearly the same. I say nearly because on WM they say the outer one (log loader side) should be 1/16" higher as the head will shift down when sawing a large wide log/cut from the drag on the blade.

If I haven't explained it correctly, I'm sure someone else will post the correct procedures.

Jim Rogers

[ladylake]

Jim  I thought I read that WM recommends 1/8" down pressure but that's just from a guy with a bad memory.  I know TK only recommends 1/8 " but I find that 1/4 cuts straighter and faster on my mill.   

[Jim_Rogers]

Now, I'm not totally sure. But I'm sure someone else will post.

Jim Rogers

[Magicman]

I am looking at my WM owners manual.  The Blade Guide Roller deflects the blade down ¼".  The back of the blade is 1/8" from the flanged collar on the Blade Guide Roller. 

Also the blade tracking is adjusted so that the gullet is 1/8" forward of the bandwheel belt.