(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32940/20191018_113443.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571490582)<br
I guess I can tick this off the list of things that will>happen some day. :D I used two boards to span the loader arms to load it on to the mill and just as it came off the loader I realised that I had forgotten to raise the manual backstops. It didn't roll fast but I still couldn't get there in time to stop it. Of course the customer was watching. :D Had to use the FEL to get it back up on the mill.
I am long since passed that one. It has been a while but I am sure I will get back around to it. Banjo
I'm sure glad I've never done anything like that (At least not when anyone was around to see it :D).
@WV Sawmiller (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=28064) that is when you will do it. Get you an audience and things will go wrong. That's why I usually just shut the mill down when someone comes up. Banjo
Yes and the bigger the audience the bigger and more impressive the mistake you will make has been my experience. :D Kind of like when we were in school and there was some real cute girl you were trying to impress. That's when you'd fall flat on your face.
Happened to me for the first time when a good friend stopped by to see the mill cut a log. He has a LT15. We both just laughed about it. :D
Surely is funnier when someone else does it. :D
Wondering how you saw with the fender on?
The fender was left on to protect the tire from run-away logs. :D :D
I've done that twice, both times, only the offbearer and myself were there, "honest"!
The only thing I've ever worried about was breaking the feed chain!
Quote from: Magicman on October 19, 2019, 03:49:28 PM
Surely is funnier when someone else does it. :D
Might as well laugh about it.....that's less messy than crying! Besides I just picked it up with my tractor and set it back on the mill. No damage to anything except my pride.
I just did this yesterday demonstrating the log loading process to my step son. No pics but I got to cross that off the list
At this time, on the advice of council, I wish to invoke my 5th Amendment right not to say anything on the grounds I may incriminate myself. :-X
Any time someone takes the fifth....we immediately assume they are guilty. So you might as well come clean. Banjo
I probably have ~6 of them on my "scoreboard", 2-3 pictured here on the FF. :-X
The ones you throw off the mill with a chain turner and completely clear the tire - those are the ones you remember. ;D
It's really irritating to roll on off your manual mill while using you can't hook. At least from what I gather. No witnesses.
Mr. Sheepkeeper, Sir,
I hate it when that happens :).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_2105.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506599270)
BTW, this is the modified Robert's Reverse Roll Quartersawing Technique (RRRQS). It requires a few more detailed steps than the one described in the manual ;D.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21495/boo_boo~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571572649)
I see nothing!!!
AH! You guys with all that fancy powered equipment! Now us manual load and mill guys may be slow, but I for myself, have never rolled a log off like that. We are thoughtful and careful. ;D :D
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on October 20, 2019, 08:07:45 AM
AH! You guys with all that fancy powered equipment! Now us manual load and mill guys may be slow, but I for myself, have never rolled a log off like that. We are thoughtful and careful. ;D :D
Unless you rid yourself of the mill yesterday, just like me, your turn is coming.
GAB
Quote from: WDH on October 20, 2019, 07:16:53 AM
Mr. Sheepkeeper, Sir,
I hate it when that happens :).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/IMG_2105.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1506599270)
BTW, this is the modified Robert's Reverse Roll Quartersawing Technique (RRRQS). It requires a few more detailed steps than the one described in the manual ;D.
Danny:
For some reason I think you got the wrong lever. Got the log stop one instead of the clamp one.
Sure hope it does not take too long to rebuild you pride.
GAB
Quote from: GAB on October 20, 2019, 12:52:56 PM
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on October 20, 2019, 08:07:45 AM
AH! You guys with all that fancy powered equipment! Now us manual load and mill guys may be slow, but I for myself, have never rolled a log off like that. We are thoughtful and careful. ;D :D
Unless you rid yourself of the mill yesterday, just like me, your turn is coming.
GAB
No doubt! But today was not that day. Instead I chose a different 'first time for that'. I found some barbed wire....... the hard way. :-[ :-[
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on October 19, 2019, 05:03:30 PM
Wondering how you saw with the fender on?
Easy, it's not in the way and I just step a little wider to get around it. I only leave it on when I'm sawing at home, on mobile jobs it comes off.
Just surprised that the head clears the fender. On my mills there is about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 " clearance above the tire itself in a setup where most of the weight is taken off of the tire. No way the head can pass by a fender. Lt40 super or LT70 super
My 70 will pass by. Do you have the off set insert?
Yes- I was thinking about height.
Mine will clear it, I put it on before I park the head.
Both of my fenders are the first things removed during setup and the last things installed after take down. My saw head will not pass the right fender and the loader will not clear the left fender.
I've done this particular Oops once or twice, but never was calm enough to snap a photo.
Sooner or later, when during the RRRQS technique, there will be an "over role".
Quote from: Southside on October 19, 2019, 09:56:12 PM
The ones you throw off the mill with a chain turner and completely clear the tire - those are the ones you remember. ;D
I did that yesterday with a 5.5 x 20 inch ten foot cant, with my turning claw. Guess I blinked or something. I was hot and ready for a break. It went over the backstops, all but one. Half on and half off. I chained it to the the grapple and lifted it back onto the mill. Going to get the tractor is what I call the walk of shame.
hugs, Brandi
I've done that a couple times myself. I have a lt-15 set up stationary and I do it when I'm loading the log ramps up with logs and try to get one more on and push just a little bit and one will roll just right and across the mill it goes.
Quote from: YellowHammer on October 21, 2019, 12:43:40 AMSooner or later, when during the RRRQS technique, there will be an "over role".
The "Modified" Version ;D.
Quote from: Southside on October 20, 2019, 06:56:05 PMMine will clear it, I put it on before I park the head.
Hey-that's how to get around the little back bungee problem! thumbs-up
the last time I did it was with a 16 'ft long 22" diameter red oak log, did I mention my mill is inside a shed, on blocking, 3 ft away from a concrete wall...getting the log out from between the mill and the wall was an adventure I`d rather forget, but the memory keeps me from doing it again,,, for a while
Alanh, I'm right with you exactly.The only diff. was mine was 14'. I spent a couple hrs getting it up enough to get a strap around to winch it out with the tractor. Ended up re-leveling the base then the mill.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on October 21, 2019, 07:59:53 AM
Quote from: Southside on October 20, 2019, 06:56:05 PMMine will clear it, I put it on before I park the head.
Hey-that's how to get around the little back bungee problem! thumbs-up
And that's why I do it that way. I can barely touch the front bungee, forget about the other one otherwise.
Quote from: Sheepkeeper on October 20, 2019, 05:30:23 PM
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on October 19, 2019, 05:03:30 PM
Wondering how you saw with the fender on?
Easy, it's not in the way and I just step a little wider to get around it. I only leave it on when I'm sawing at home, on mobile jobs it comes off.
I have modified the dust chute to be more like that on the LT35 so that it throws the sawdust a little further away from the walking path. Probably wouldn't work without the mod. Here is a pic to illustrate. Sawhead is at 1 inch.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32940/20191022_153316.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1571829654)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24706/MillOoops.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1444652807)
I haven't done that ... more than 2 or three times. It took a few four letter words to put that back on there.
I aint sayin nuthin
I will say this; if that truck door stays open, the inside will get sawdust. :o Same as if a window in left open. :-X
I have doen it where it took a few hours to hand lift it back up at a customers,, no heavy equipment to lift it with. The last thing I do after I saw the last board is lift the back stops, move the clamp all the way out, then I shut down the mill aand move lumber and load a log on th arms.
That is the reason that if you have an energy chain (gooseneck) with your hydraulic lines in it... you always bring the mill back before you roll a log or cant. Banjo
My wife's cousin had me come to the home place of their grandparents to saw some 32" red oak logs. Yep, rolled one over the back stops and off the mill. No equipment to get the log back in place so I had to break the mill down and turn it around to get the log. I was sawing the lumber for family (aka free of charge) so the time didn't matter.
Quote from: SawyerTed on November 01, 2019, 07:32:43 PM
My wife's cousin had me come to the home place of their grandparents to saw some 32" red oak logs. Yep, rolled one over the back stops and off the mill. No equipment to get the log back in place so I had to break the mill down and turn it around to get the log. I was sawing the lumber for family (aka free of charge) so the time didn't matter.
On the WM they get stuck between the frame and the tire, not a good spot as you have to lift them out
Quote from: Cjross73 on October 19, 2019, 09:00:24 PM
I just did this yesterday demonstrating the log loading process to my step son. No pics but I got to cross that off the list
I am sure you immediately shared this is to show what not to do and is part of the demonstration.
Was trying to turn four 4x14 cants that are 16 foot long. Thought I had it far enough from the backstops to turn with the clamp, but I was wrong. The top cant hit the backstop rollers just right, and over she went and did this...................
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Sawmill_Broken_Power_Strip.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1638846341)
If only WM made the housing strip with mounting holes on both sides, I would only have to take it apart and flip it over. Depending how fast WM gets me the new parts, I may cut the strip down to one foot, so I can finish the 4x6 order.
Or even better yet...........if WM welded a cover over the strip to protect it from this abuse!
hugs, Brandi
How about drilling new holes in the remaining "tabs" and tap the channel? I would leave the existing screws and broken off tabs for alignment.
Quote from: Magicman on December 06, 2021, 10:14:12 PM
How about drilling new holes in the remaining "tabs" and tap the channel? I would leave the existing screws and broken off tabs for alignment.
Lynn,
I thought about adding new mounting holes and tap them in the frame. But the frame has lots of hoses inside that like to leak when sharp objects hit them. Tomorrow, I will see if I can tap holes AND clear the hyd. hoses. I just don't visualize how to keep the hoses out of the way that far down inside the frame.
First I have to get the bolts out that are binding the strip and move the sawhead at the same time. As I see it now, an open end wrench will be needed on one bolt and hopefully it is short. Then the strip should be able to pop back into place. Right now, it is in a bind, sitting on the hidden bolt head. That hole just pulled through the bolt head, without breaking the strip. Also, the bent housing could have bent the copper strip. Not sure until tomorrow.
hugs, Brandi
Why not just remove all the screws (or bolts) and move the entire contact strip down a couple inches where there is clean plastic flange and redrill the holes in the remaining plastic flange to match the existing threaded holes? When the copper strip is off, you could true it up, also. Then reattach the strip into the estimating holes in the rail.
Looks like plenty of material and it would hold permanently.
Pretty quick fix, I would, think.
Lots of ways to measure and blind match the existing threaded holes in the rail with the undrilled plastic. Or am I missing something?
On my old LT40 there was enough play in the contact strip power wire underneath to get a couple inches of sideways movement.
Or am I missing something?
Quote from: YellowHammer on December 06, 2021, 11:34:44 PM
Why not just remove all the screws (or bolts) and move the entire contact strip down a couple inches where there is clean plastic flange and redrill the holes in the remaining plastic flange to match the existing threaded holes? When the copper strip is off, you could true it up, also. Then reattach the strip into the estimating holes in the rail.
Looks like plenty of material and it would hold permanently.
Pretty quick fix, I would, think.
Lots of ways to measure and blind match the existing threaded holes in the rail with the undrilled plastic. Or am I missing something?
On my old LT40 there was enough play in the contact strip power wire underneath to get a couple inches of sideways movement.
Or am I missing something?
What you are missing is I won't know until tomorrow. Is a couple of inches or even an inch shift one way gonna allow me to have power at the stop, or if I move it the other way, will the ground cable interfere with something else? I won't know until daylight.
When I screw up, it is usually right at dusk. It's dark now, so I could make it worst now. We won't know daylight.
I used to do sheetmetal and have all kinds of hole locaters. But first things first. I have to get the strip housing our of the way so I can move the sawhead. The strip housing will bind under the sawhead if I move it forward right now and I could damage the strip (more). I will have to figure out how to remove two hidden bolts before trying anything else. It's clear as mud right now.
hugs, Brandi
If you get a new power strip, save the copper strip for future use in case the new one someday needs replacing!
The copper strip will slide out of it's plastic housing.
A while back, the power strip on my mill was pitted and I pulled it out of it's housing and flipped it over and soldered the lead on the other side of the strip, still works like a new one!
Heck, if you get a new power strip, mount this one on the far end of the mill, and connect the two together. This will give hydros at either end on the mill, which is am huge benefit.
To move the saw head remove the contact shoeand its mounting hardware. That should allow enough clearance but go slow.
GAB
Quote from: Bindian on December 06, 2021, 10:34:51 PM
Quote from: Magicman on December 06, 2021, 10:14:12 PM
How about drilling new holes in the remaining "tabs" and tap the channel? I would leave the existing screws and broken off tabs for alignment.
Lynn,
I thought about adding new mounting holes and tap them in the frame. But the frame has lots of hoses inside that like to leak when sharp objects hit them.
Bindian:
If you remove the hitch is there a possibility that you could push a board with a 30° or less lead angle against the inside of the tube to prevent the drill or tap from touching the electrical and hydraulic components inside the tube?
GAB
DanG GAB, that's clever!
You engineers are a bright bunch.
Bindian, this sounds like the ticket.
Quote from: Chuck White on December 07, 2021, 07:43:39 AM
If you get a new power strip, save the copper strip for future use in case the new one someday needs replacing!
The copper strip will slide out of it's plastic housing.
A while back, the power strip on my mill was pitted and I pulled it out of it's housing and flipped it over and soldered the lead on the other side of the strip, still works like a new one!
I always save old parts. Just for reasons like this.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: YellowHammer on December 07, 2021, 07:47:46 AM
Heck, if you get a new power strip, mount this one on the far end of the mill, and connect the two together. This will give hydros at either end on the mill, which is am huge benefit.
YellowHammer,
When I saw how easy the strip is held on, I realized, that maybe additional strips could be added. It really baffles my mind why WM didn't do this. How many times I have needed hydraulics and didn't have power, only to have to back the blade back out. Way too many. It would be easy connecting at the far end of the frame, as only wires are a concern back there when drilling.
The new power strip is shipping tomorrow. The plastic housing is only $25.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: GAB on December 07, 2021, 10:00:22 AM
To move the saw head remove the contact shoeand its mounting hardware. That should allow enough clearance but go slow.
GAB
I learned many years ago as a mechanic, you only take off what is needed and is easiest first.
I will remove all the strip bolts I can first. That will leave only one bolt holding, which will allow the strip to pivot on that one bolt and should self align for one trip out of the way.
It's not the contacts I am worried about. The strip is hanging down and is stiff plastic. The strip will not straighten out if moved my hand right now. It is hanging up on a bolt head that has pulled completely through the plastic housing and binding the strip in is down handing position. That bolt is kinda hidden right now. I gotta get that bolt out before anything.
If I move the head into it, even with the contacts off, I am concerned the head will bind into the plastic strip and my drive belt will slip, leaving me to have to "man" handled the head backwards.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: GAB on December 07, 2021, 10:21:17 AM
Quote from: Bindian on December 06, 2021, 10:34:51 PM
Quote from: Magicman on December 06, 2021, 10:14:12 PM
How about drilling new holes in the remaining "tabs" and tap the channel? I would leave the existing screws and broken off tabs for alignment.
Lynn,
I thought about adding new mounting holes and tap them in the frame. But the frame has lots of hoses inside that like to leak when sharp objects hit them.
Bindian:
If you remove the hitch is there a possibility that you could push a board with a 30° or less lead angle against the inside of the tube to prevent the drill or tap from touching the electrical and hydraulic components inside the tube?
GAB
Good idea. I pulled the hyd. compartment lid to verify. That looks doable. But would you pull that hitch and tap holes to save $25 and a few days down time? I won't try, as I am pretty sure that plastic housing has been stress bent too far and it won't straighten out once unbolted.
As an experience mechanic needing to tap 4 holes, I would stick a hammer handle or small stick of wood in the square hole (can't be seen in the photo) that is right at the left most bolt hole and push the hoses over. Also, near the new hole to be drilled near existing bolt holes, I would put a small screwdriver in and push the hoses over. Then I would wind masking tape around the drill bit to just the thickness of the metal. That drill bit would be a #40 bit for a pilot hole.
Then I would poke some safety wire in the pilot hole to see how much clearance I have to the hoses. That would give me enough assurance to poke some new holes and tap them. That is how an aircraft sheetmetal mechanic would do it.
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Andries on December 07, 2021, 10:42:57 AM
DanG GAB, that's clever!
You engineers are a bright bunch.
Bindian, this sounds like the ticket.
Engineers have their moments. But to get a bright idea, you don't need a degree to get them.
I learned that working around aerospace engineers. I have been around engineers that could NOT chew gum and tie their shoes at the same time. I have also worked around engineers that listened to what the mechanics told him. Those,.....are the engineers that earned my respect. I think GAB is in the latter group.
hugs, Brandi
They do put two power strips on their LT-70's. If you have a stationary command and control setup, the best power strip is none at all.
WAIT WHAT I'm supposed to be able to chew gum and tie my shoelaces at the same time.
I 've been WORKING on walking and chewing gum at the same time.
Quote from: hacknchop on December 07, 2021, 12:54:14 PM
WAIT WHAT I'm supposed to be able to chew gum and tie my shoelaces at the same time.
I 've been WORKING on walking and chewing gum at the same time.
That is okay hacknchop. My old CAT excavator can't walk and chew gum at the same time either. LOL
hugs, Brandi
As it turned out, I got called away today to pick up two loads of logs. I had to use my headlight to remove the power strip after all.
I removed the end screw, then pried with a pry bar and was able to remove the bolt that pulled thru the plastic, but the plastic was still up against the bolt head. I pried the strip and was able to spin the bolt out with a 3/8 open end. Then I bumped the head along to clear the last two bolts and it was free. 15 minutes time to remove.
The plastic housing and/or the copper strip is bent enough to cut it off at 24 inches. I will remove the nylon bolt and try to remove the strip out of the housing first.
Then I will grind the end copper down into a nice ramp (it is 3/16th or 1/4 inch thick). Then reinstall the 24 inch strip to keep sawing.
Hopefully new strip assy. will be here Friday.
hugs, Brandi
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_1420.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1638927465)
I checked mine today and sure nuff, it has taken a lickin' in the past but it is still kickin'. Actually I believe that it happened on this job that I finished today. My customer/tailgunner let a full size 20' 2X10 get away from him last week and it fell between the tire and mill and hit the chain on my end.
Quote from: Magicman on December 07, 2021, 08:44:09 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_1420.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1638927465)
I checked mine today and sure nuff, it has taken a lickin' in the past but it is still kickin'. Actually I believe that it happened on this job that I finished today. My customer/tailgunner let a full size 20' 2X10 get away from him last week and it fell between the tire and mill and hit the chain on my end.
$25 dollars plus shipping and you can have a new housing. If that copper strip gets wacked out of shape, it is $89 for a new housing, strip, and cable plus shipping.
I gotta check chain tension also. I was picking wood splitters out of the links today.
hugs, Brandi
I've heard that if a log or can't goes off the back side of the mill it can bend the bender bracket, making it difficult or even impossible to slide the fender into the bracket. Fortunately, I also heard it can be opened back up with a chainsaw bar wrench. 😎
Quote from: Magicman on December 07, 2021, 08:44:09 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_1420.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1638927465)
I checked mine today and sure nuff, it has taken a lickin' in the past but it is still kickin'. Actually I believe that it happened on this job that I finished today. My customer/tailgunner let a full size 20' 2X10 get away from him last week and it fell between the tire and mill and hit the chain on my end.
To protect my chain I did this in reply #12: Got old Betsy back up and running. in Sawmills and Milling (forestryforum.com) (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=116556.msg1849225#msg1849225)
kelLOGg,
I think just a 3/4 x 3/4 angle welded right above the power strip would work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Sawmill_Short_Power_Strip.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1639010384)
But this mod is completely protected by the sawhead. I cut it down to 24 inches and sloped the left end of the copper strip. Works great for now.
.......and here is the guilty culprit.....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/27364/Lumber_4x16_That_Took_Out_The_Power_Strip.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1639010495)
hugs, Brandi
Good thing I was able to cut the strip down to 24 inches. Just got tracking information and the new strip assy. won't be here until next Wed.
hugs, Brandi