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Strength of SYP Beam Spans (where to find information) ?

Started by H60 Hawk Pilot, March 09, 2011, 12:12:22 AM

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H60 Hawk Pilot

I did a search to find beam strength for SYP but did not hit on the right place in FF,  I read a lot of general information here.

Can anyone send me to the right place (web site) ?

I was trying to figure the beam loading of a 10" W. X's 16" T. X's 40 foot long beam that is placed at a 30 degee angle.

This is a  A Frame type building. This building is intended for use as a  tall (inside) maint. building where you can put the dump bed up on a tri-axle and that's over 30 ft. high when the bed's all the way up. Building would measure  24 ft. wide and 36 long.
Intended as very basic building and cheaply built with all SYP but metal siding.

I'd like to know the minimum spacing, say 6 or 8 foot up right spacing and  ? X  ?  X  40 Ft. Long SYP Beams at 30 degree angle or required  angle X  to get my inside height of 32 ft. inside.  I already have the large dia. SYP to cut for the job.  I can (most likely) stretch out to 46 ft. as my max. length. Also, I can cut the beam on a taper if necessary, say 20" at the base to 12" or so at the top. Just.. need to know what's right and recommend for  A Frame Building.  My goal.... not make this building difficult to build with a lot of fitting and cutting and trusses for a  high (32 ft.) inside type equipment and little maint. shop. Also, No snow loading in FL but high (70 mph winds) winds from time to time.    

Just for the Knowlege factor... I'd like to know what different beam sizes will support (center point) at 90 degrees and other angles and from different kinds of lumber (oak, pine). Really, the center point loading is not the bottom line here, it's the overall design and recommended size of timbers, spacing, etc. for  A frame as described (24 W. X's 36 L. and 32 Ft. Ht. inside).

I have a (high inside) barn that I work in at my home place in PA, it's boxed beam construction. The PA barn is over 38 ft. inside to the top of the cross beams at the roof but it ain't a...  A Frame Building like the one I'd like to build in FL.  

Note: Yes, I can lay this (A Frame) out on 1/4 inch graph paper but can't figure the (spacing) design and strength out this way.  

Avery
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

bushhog920

If you get it built i'd like to see it, or need any help with timber framing i'd like to help a day or two. i drill in dothan so i go that way every month.

H60 Hawk Pilot

Brush Hog 920

I searching for information to see how far off ... I am.  Maybe my figuring ain't too brillant, looking for some pro's to steer me in the right direction.  I forgot to mention...  I have some  A frame plan's for a small A Frame house.  I did not think that was good enough to expand on to a High Topped Shop Building.

We'll see how much info. I get before I move forward. I would like to saw up a (A Frame) building and put it up without a lot of trouble and lot's of cutting and fitting labor.

Avery
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

Jim_Rogers

There are specs on SYP timbers in the Red tool box, under DonP's calculator.
But I don't know if this will help you or not.

I would suggest that if you're going to this extent of creating this large building that you should have it's design engineered to withstand the wind load you need.

To locate an engineer who can review,adjust,modify,advise go to the Timber Frame Engineering Council (TFEC) site and select "find an engineer" an it will show you a map, click on your state and it will list all the engineers register with them, who are licensed in your state. Call or email the engineer and talk it over with them/him.

It is my opinion that your design is complex and will need proper design review to make it safe for you, and others after it is built.

TFEC site is: http://www.timberframeengineeringcouncil.org/index.html
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

H60 Hawk Pilot

Jim Rodger's

Thank You for Your Advice and Link.

I looked at my plans for a A Frame building that I copied a couple months ago. The plans are not that detailed but good enough to work with. I extracted data from the plans and used a couple web sites to calulate the loading (verification) and it was quite interesting.  I noticed that the A Frame building was built for 85 mph winds and 1200 PSI Max. Fiber Stress and other data as well. The A frame house had 60 degree sides, and a 2nd floor where my building is open all the way to the top << so that may be a problem with my copy cat extraction.

I expanded the plans to match up to my size building and beefed up the structure to match the design spec's./ loads of the smaller building. However, this may Not be the Correct Solution but...  it all looked good on paper and matched up (spec. wise).

Yes, I heard you the 1st time... get it engineered out so it's holds up.  I like to (try) figure things on my own.  If I understand what I'm doing... it works out better... it must be the do it yourself farmer in me.

Avery
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

Jim_Rogers

Avery:
Ok, I'm glad you heard me the first time.

What I have learned, from going to TFEC meetings at conferences, is that sometimes it is best to get the engineer in on the design early. There is no sense in spinning your wheels if you're going down the wrong road.
I too like to figure things out myself, as much as I can, and as best as I can. But there is a point where I understand that I don't know enough about "wind load" for example to figure these things out. And it would be a waste of my time to try and "do the math" for something like this.

I have worked with several engineers with several projects and it's nice to have one of them in your corner when it comes to getting permits for your structure.

Good luck with your project.
And if I can help you any further feel free to ask.

Jim

Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

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