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Help trouble-shooting my 2000 Ford Ranger please

Started by RynSmith, May 24, 2013, 01:20:02 PM

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RynSmith

I'll try to keep this brief.  It's a 2000 5-speed manual 4x4 3.0L 6-cylinder with 240,000(!!) miles on it.  I got a new clutch ~ 2 months ago during which they changed the transmission oil.  This did not include the clutch master cylinder but did include a new slave.

I noticed that at times I had a bit of trouble getting into a gear after this but figured it was me getting used to the new clutch.  Well, it got progressively worse to where I wasn't always sure I could get it into a gear, with first and second being the worst.  When it has sat over night I can get them in easily enough but over my 20 mile commute, by the time I'm pulling in to the parking lot it's a struggle.  Basically same thing on the way home.  NO grinding noises, just can't physically get the shifter in the slot.

Called my mechanic and he thinks that if he's at any fault, the only way would be an incomplete bleed of the hydraulic lines from the new clutch to wherever they go.  Obviously I'm hoping this is the case and here is my one thread of hope - I can easily put it into any gear when it's turned off (I actually had to turn it off to get it into reverse to back into my drive yesterday).  Would I be able to easily do that if it was really the transmission going/gone?

Any thoughts would be appreciated because I'm not mechanically inclined, let alone a mechanic...   :(

Jeff

It sounds to me like they did not properly/completely bleed the slave cylinder. They can be a bear to get the air out of, and almost have to be done with a vacuum bleeder. I had exactly the same issues on one in a Jeep. I'm positive that is your problem.
Just call me the midget doctor.
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RynSmith

It's really good to hear that that (Tom) may be the issue!  I'm torn over getting rid of this truck - to see it going down the road you'd never think it has that many miles; it's been a real trooper.

Thanks for the ray of hope, Jeff.   :)

bill m

Jeff is correct, the slave needs to be bled. When the truck sits overnight the air will collect into one big bubble and try to move to the highest point but can't quite get to the master cylinder. When you start depressing the clutch pedal the air is pushed back into the slave cylinder and the more you use the clutch the worse it gets.
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RynSmith

Thanks for the affirmation Bill, hopefully they'll clear this up for me. 

Are people of the opinion that I shouldn't have to pay for this?  Part of me doesn't even like to go there because it sounds like it is complicated by the location so it will take a lot of labor time.  Don't like to have them "losing" money on me...   :-\

bill m

Two months after the work was done is kind of a long time for this type of problem. They could make you pay for all of it but if they are a good shop they will split the cost with you. If it's a REAL good shop there will be no charge.
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ancjr

Hope you get it fixed!  Mine is a 2001 with the 2.5L, 2wd.  I'd love to have the 4wd 6 cylinder!

sandhills

I agree with all the above, slave cylinder/two months along time/good shop bad shop.  Bad news, I hate those cheesey little slave cylinders nowadays, put 2 in my 93 1/2 ton 4x4 and had to drop the tranny to do it, not sure how the Ranger is configured.  The first one lasted a couple months then I went with a FoMoCo one and it lasted until I sold the truck (a few years), hope this helps.

Morewood

Try This ,  Remove the cap on the clutch master cylinder and the rubber bladder that is under it . Make sure that there is enough brake fluid in it then start pumping the clutch pedal several times ,fast or until it feels tight like the clutch is working . Let it sit for 15-30 min. with the rubber bladder and cap removed . you can watch the reservoir to see if any air comes to the surface . You may only see one or two small bubbles of air at a time , and then repeat this a few times . The air will escape out the top of the system better with the bladder and cap removed , you may need to leave the system open over night to get more air out . be sure to install the cap and bladder before putting the truck in service . If that doesn't work it will require bleeding with a vacuum pump .
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snowstorm

an internal leak in the master cyl can cause the problem and still not loose any fulid

Jeff

In ,my experience, at least in a Cherokee, the air gets trapped directly in the slave cylinder due to its orientation, and no amount of pumping will get the air out. The only recourse was to bleed at the line where it connects to the slave. and in that jeep, it was a pain to get to. It took 4 or 5 bleeding sessions to finally get it, as air kept eventually going back up to that highest point where the cylinder was.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Ford_man

I had the exact same thing happen on a 98 ranger. I put a new clutch(bought from Ford) and I could not shift it it had 225000 miles on it. after 6 months it was out of warranty .
tore it down and found that the pads on the clutch disc were not riveted tight to the plate. Put a new clutch disc in . problem solved . it has 347000on it now and still going. splitwood_smiley

Mark K

I had a F150 I put a clutch and slave cylinder in but had a heck of a time getting it bled. Dad suggested using a vacuum puller. I've done a couple clutch's since then including a ranger. Works great.
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RynSmith

Thanks again for the responses - it is now at my mechanic's shop waiting for him to find the time to mess with it.   :-\  I hope he can get it bled and that fixes things but Jeff has me worried with the multiple required bleeds for his Jeep.

Morewood, I realize it was a long post but clearly I lost you before the last sentence!  ;D  ;D
Hopefully your input can help someone else down the line...

millwright

Most good shops will have a pressure bleeder, it is a  fairly simple but critical part of clutch and brake repair.

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