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Injection pump timing

Started by tacks Y, February 04, 2016, 08:26:42 PM

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tacks Y

I have a 440A that I changed injectors on, still the fuel smelling exhaust. I am think scribbing a line and rotating pump to see if I can clean it up some. The injectors I removed looked dark black and now thinking timing may be off. Good, bad idea? Seems to run fine but tired of the smoke. Thanks Tom

snowstorm

bad      they dont get out of time by themselves

bushmechanic

Check your air filter, if it can't get air it's going to smoke!

Corley5

Just because the inner air filter looks good doesn't mean it is ;) :)  I speak from experience ;D
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

tacks Y

Thanks for the ideas. No they don't get out of time by them selves, but not sure about who put this together last. It was like this when it got it. I replaced filters, but may remove and start to see if it helps. I had a Cat dozer "50s" did the same thing. With the book I was able to set the timing (I think 1 injector at a time, its been a while) and it cleaned right up. So I am thinking advancing a little to see if it helps. 

coxy

 :D :) ;D yes check your air/fuel filters I had mice plug the air filter housing over a weekend one time  >:( >:(

Gary_C

Bad idea. The injectors always look black. That's not a good indicator to change the timing. Before you mess with the timing, check the specs for your engine and pump and see where the timing is set now.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

tacks Y

Bad idea, you may be right. But the smoke was burning my eyes. Advanced it  2 1/2 degrees and fine now, cleaned up. Need to research how to set it right, but happy now and it sounds good. This machine was pretty rough when I got it and cobbled up.

mad murdock

That should be a Roosa Master injection pump made by Connecticut Screw (now Stanadyne).  There is movement allowed at the base of the pump to adjust to the engine(fine tune) as you have done.  A key to the health of the pump is how easy it starts, as long as your intake heater system or glow plugs are working properly, the engine should start easy with no ether. If you hasve to crank and crank, that is a good sign that the flex drive plate in the base of the pump is torn or broken.  I have the same pump on my Garrett.  Pretty good pump units, just don't try to get into the guts of it without the proper manual, you will not be successful in setting it back to spec properly without that information.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

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