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Advice on graduating to a faster chain

Started by Robert R, November 10, 2005, 06:34:39 PM

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Robert R

This season, I will probably need to replace most of my saw chains--there isn't much left to sharpen.  I have in the past always used the Stihl rollomatic anti-kickback chains right off the shelf from the dealer.  I think I'd like to try some more aggressive, faster chains now that I have a bit more comfort using the saws and felling trees but am really rather ignorant as to what I should try running.  I have 2 Stihl saws--an old 021 and a 390.  Any suggestions as to what would be useful.  95% of my cutting is walnut, oak.  I also cut a little honey locust and osage orange as well as dead fall for firewood.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Rocky_J

You can get the same chains you currently use, but without the additional anti-kickback wanks. Just ask your dealer for the same chain but in the yellow label box instead of the green label box. I'm guessing your chains are something like a 33RM2-72 (20", .325 pitch) and 63PM1-50 (14", 3/8"LP). Ask for the 33RM- and 63PM- versions instead.

Of the 7-8 Stihl dealers here in Orlando, over half of them don't carry the yellow label chains in the smaller sizes. Most of them cater exclusively to homeowners and lawn monkeys. I have to drive 15 miles across town to get the proper chain for my 200T climbing saw.  ::)

Here's Stihl's application guide. It's a PDF file (Acrobat reader). Unfortunately it only shows the safety chain and not the pro chain. Lawyers have seen to that.   :-\
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/catalog2005/SawChainSelectionID.pdf

floyd

ask for chisel bit chain.If you sharpen your own then you will need a flat file to use on this chain

Robert R

Thanks.  I know he only carries the anti-kickback stuff but he is willing to special order for me.  He didn't even carry a saw as big as the 390--had to order it as well.  In hindsight, I wish I had spent the extra on a pro saw but will graduate to that when I wear this one down.

I was in there the other day and his shelves were nearly bare.  Seems everyone and their brother has been buying saws to make their fortune in firewood this winter.  Told me several had already tried to bring them back because it was more effort than it was worth. 
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

rebocardo

On my 28 inch bars I have been buying 30 RCS (full skip) chain from Baileys. I have been pleased with it. I have been using the yellow Stihl chain on my Husky 365 and have been pleased with that too. It is very sharp out of the box and stays sharp for at least a day.

TRUSSMAN

Robert R,
  I run the RS chain made by stihl on my 026 and my 046.  They have a more agressive bite but do tend to dull a little quicker.
Jeff
Stihl
026
046 EHP

Robert R

Well, if Stihl yellow chain stays sharp for you for a day, it'll probably last me for several!!  I really enjoy the work but also realize I am fortunate not to have to pay my mortgage with logs.  Many days, I'd make more flippin burgers but I am sure most of the customers wouldn't care for Molly and Ginger dragging their food out from the back!   ;D

Wish I lived in moose country.  They could probably earn quite a bit dragging out moose or elk.  Most of the whitetail around me are hand draggable unless you have a steep hill.  Never done it with them before unless you count the steer I drug out to the driveway for the farm-kill butcher.  He didn't think they'd do it what with the blood smell.  Afterwards, thought he'd wound up in the 1800's.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Billy_Bob

I would advise you to learn as much as you can about kick-back situations, how to avoid them, chainsaw "reactive fources", and PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). Here are some good sources of information on this...

Common chainsaw injury locations on body - diagram.
(1/2 way down page)...
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/logger/personal_equip/personal_equip.html

Stihl DVD: "Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance"...
http://www.stihlusa.com/knowhow/knowhow_lit_video.html

"Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual" on-line book...
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

OSHA Logging eTool...
(Manual logging or mechanical logging)
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/mainpage.html

Book: "Professional Timber Falling" By Douglas Dent
http://onlinestore.forestindustry.com/cgi-bin/baileys/catch.html?product=92

National Timber Harvesting and Transportation Safety Foundation
Logging Safety Web Site...
http://www.loggingsafety.com

The Game of Logging...
http://www.gameoflogging.com

Stihl Instruction Manuals...
http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/ownersmanuals_listing.html

Stihl - Guide to Saw Chain Maintenance...
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf

Robert R

I was rummaging through my closet and found I already have a couple of yellow label chains for my 390 I haven't opened yet.  I'll try them over the weekend on an elm I am supposed to cut down.  Thanks for all of the help.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Max sawdust

The yellow box ones are the only way to go.  Stopped using "local hardware store" chains a while back.  Keep them sharp and I think you already know about kickback.  (Helmet and Chainsaw chaps are a must for me.) No interest in bleeding out in the woods :o
So do you do a lot of logging with them animals of yours ??? Talk about low impact 8)
max
True Timbers
Cedar Products-Log & Timber Frame Building-Milling-Positive Impact Forestscaping-Cut to Order Lumber

Robert R

A lot of logging--not nearly as much as I wish.  Last year was my first to sell any sawlogs or pallet stock.  I have used them for my own firewood collection for several years.  I am severely under equipped but am gaining ground slowly.  I bought the bigger saw last year and I plan to buy a trailer next week, pending Mrs. approval which I kind of have tentatively at the moment.  I plan to do a lot more this year than last and grow slow.  I have no intentions of making a living at it, I just really enjoy being out in the winter and working the horses.  They also mow and rake my hay and do occasional hayride duty.  With the high prices of gas this year, they also get taken into town regularly for picking up grain or groceries and the like--it is a 14 mile round trip.  We get some pretty funky looks at the local Sonic drive-in while they are resting for the return trip.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Tony_T

What you must realize about kickback is not to put any part of your body in the way in the event it happens.  Keep your left hand to the right of your body, if possible with your elbow locked and your right arm fully extended too.  If it does kick back it will miss you. 

Anti kick back chains are a great way to start out if you have little experience with chainsaws, but they leave much to be desired in cutting qualities.  After you gain experience you'll learn what to avoid and/or what gets you into trouble (e.g. watch out for the tip!).

Had an old friend who lost half his right ear due to a kickback, if his left arm was a little more to his left it might have split his nose and then .......

Max sawdust

Robert,
It sounds like you live a good Life.  BE CAREFULL we only get one :-[
If you ever feel like taking those horses on a little longer ride say Northern Wisconsin, we can pull some logs in some very fine countryside.  (And use Yellow box chains  :D)
PS I am confident that centered people that are not in such a darn rush with everyting (IE a guy who pulls logs with horses) can use proper techniques to avoid getting killed or injured with professional chains.)
The world rushes too much and it KILLS you >:(

I love it.  Horses at the fast food joint 8) Keep up the great way of life.
max
Sorry food always gets me diverted from the point of the thread ::)
True Timbers
Cedar Products-Log & Timber Frame Building-Milling-Positive Impact Forestscaping-Cut to Order Lumber

Billy_Bob

Quote from: Max sawdust on November 11, 2005, 10:55:08 PM
...The world rushes too much and it KILLS you >:(...

Very good point!

It takes me "extra" time to be safe... To tie a safety rope around myself or what I am cutting in a tree, to make several small cuts in a limb to relieve tension instead of one cut, to shut off my saw and move a log out into the open so I can buck it more safely, to remove limbs and debris where I am standing so I have better footing, to remove limbs and debris from behind what I am bucking so the tip of my chainsaw will not accidentially contact something and kickback, etc.

And it takes extra time to learn about all this stuff.

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