Beam Boring Machine Make/Model

[bhlaban]

Can anyone identify the brand/make of this boring machine?  It's currently disassembled and has a broken gear (shown in pictures).  I'd like to get it fixed up and was hoping to find a replacement for the broken gear, but I assume I'll have better luck searching if I know the brand/make.

 

 

 

[D L Bahler]

Looks like a Millers Falls

[bhlaban]

Thanks for the reply - Any suggestions on finding a replacement gear or repairing the broken gear?

[Ljohnsaw]

Good luck on finding just that gear!  Is the break clean and complete - that is, is it just the one piece?  There is not a huge amount of stress on those gears as it is human powered.  My first inclination would be to braze the piece back on and use it like that.  Even if there is a tooth you need to reconstruct, it should still work.

[D L Bahler]

I actually think I was mistaken. This might be a snell.
I looked at the pictures again and decided my first guess was wrong. We mostly just have the old Millers Falls machines around here. But you've got the wooden uprights, where a Millers Falls is all metal but the base. 

Probably be best to find a machinist to cut you a new gear. If you have any car factories in your area, there's probably someone who'd mill you a precise gear on the side. (that's what we do around here when we need precision parts made)

[bhlaban]

Good luck on finding just that gear!  Is the break clean and complete - that is, is it just the one piece?  There is not a huge amount of stress on those gears as it is human powered.  My first inclination would be to braze the piece back on and use it like that.  Even if there is a tooth you need to reconstruct, it should still work.

It is a pretty clean break.  I can fit the two pieces together nicely.  Someone suggested using JB Weld - Is that not recommended?

[Jim_Rogers]

It is a Snell machine.
I may have a gear here on hand from our parts bin. Measure the diameter of the hole and the diameter of the gear and let me know.
Jim Rogers

[bhlaban]

It is a Snell machine.
I may have a gear here on hand from our parts bin. Measure the diameter of the hole and the diameter of the gear and let me know.
Jim Rogers

How precise do the measurements have to be?  All I have on hand is a small SS ruler, which I understand isn't the most precise.  Using the ruler and naked eye, the measurements are as follows:
Hole diameter: 22/32 in.
Gear diameter: 3 18/32 in.
Note: Gear diameter was measured from tooth tip to tooth tip

[Jim_Rogers]

If you don't have a caliper rule to measure the diameter of the hole, measure the diameter of the shaft. Take an adjustable wrench and tighten it down on the shaft and measure from jaw to jaw. I've done that more than once.

Jim Rogers

[Ljohnsaw]

Good luck on finding just that gear!  Is the break clean and complete - that is, is it just the one piece?  There is not a huge amount of stress on those gears as it is human powered.  My first inclination would be to braze the piece back on and use it like that.  Even if there is a tooth you need to reconstruct, it should still work.

It is a pretty clean break.  I can fit the two pieces together nicely.  Someone suggested using JB Weld - Is that not recommended?

JB Weld would probably work.  Like I said, not a lot of stress on that gear.  Hopefully Jim can help you out.

[bhlaban]

If you don't have a caliper rule to measure the diameter of the hole, measure the diameter of the shaft. Take an adjustable wrench and tighten it down on the shaft and measure from jaw to jaw. I've done that more than once.

Jim Rogers

Thanks Jim, I've been meaning to pick up a caliper rule anyway, so I'll get you some more precise measurements tonight hopefully.

[bhlaban]

If Jim can't help me out, I'll likely try to find someone to braze it.  If that falls through, I guess I'll try using JB weld as a last resort.

And thanks to all who've replied - This is a cool forum!

[bhlaban]

Jim, I got a digital caliper - Below are the measurements:

Shaft Diameter: 0.685 in.
Gear Diameter: 3.575 in.

[bhlaban]

I have a couple more questions pertaining to the restoration (with intent to use):

1) An "acquaintance" who helped press out the pins (and broke the gear) threw away the pins - What are the best replacement pins for re-assembly?

2) He also sandblasted a few of the parts (not requested) and I soaked other parts in vinegar, so now I have a mix of really "clean" looking parts and others that still look "vintage."  Should I just have everything sandblasted?  Also, what type of finish should I put on the metal parts (powder coat, spray paint, etc.)?

NOTE: All wood parts were cleaned with Kramer's Best Antique Improver and they look beautiful.

[btulloh]

If you put the sandblasted parts in vinegar they should match up pretty well.  I use vinegar to antique new hardware.  Coat with something like Balistol immediately after the vinegar.  I wouldn't paint them, but that's just me.

[Brad_bb]

Check out this thread:  Boring machine cast welding repair

[bhlaban]

Check out this thread:  Boring machine cast welding repair

Brad, thanks for the link - I might just see what those guys in Hudson, WI can do for me.  Still haven't heard anything from Jim on whether or not he's got a spare gear laying around.

[Jim_Rogers]

Still haven't heard anything from Jim on whether or not he's got a spare gear laying around.

I don't normally do business in an open thread. You need to send me a request by regular email to jrsawmill (at) verizon (dot) net.
I believe I have one on hand. .685 converts to 11/16" I believe and 3.575 to 3 9/16". If that is true then I have one.
Jim Rogers

[Jim_Rogers]

Here is a picture of my caliper saying 22/32's or 11/16":



 

Jim Rogers