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Author Topic: What am I doing wrong?  (Read 841 times)

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Offline DixieReb31

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #20 on: June 05, 2021, 06:55:46 AM »
Yellowhammer,
1)  is this description (picture) you gave back in 2016 only for hardwood?  Could you possibly make one for the way you cut SYP into construction lumber?  That would greatly increase my learning curve!
2) You said earlier that you ďlevel the bark on SYPĒ.  Iím new, so I still am learning Sawyer lingo, do you literally put a 4í level on the log or just eyeball level?






 
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Offline DixieReb31

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #21 on: June 05, 2021, 07:02:17 AM »
I apologize, I got confused on who said what.  It was actually Southside that said he makes the bark parallel to the mill.  My bad.
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Offline Southside

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #22 on: June 05, 2021, 07:28:01 AM »
Definitely no level to be found.  Eyeball them and if you are not sure you can use your band to check the height across the log by running the saw head down to the opposite end.  That's also a good way to see if a big log will fit between the guide rollers.  Often will prevent wedging, trying to back out of a cut, chain saw nipping, and saying bad words.  ::) 
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Offline WDH

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #23 on: June 05, 2021, 08:13:50 AM »
Always try to balance the rings in pine.  The rings on one side should be a mirror image of the rings on the opposite side.  Never split the pith.  Never leave juvenile wood on only one side of a board.  Always put the juvenile core of any log in the center of the boards. 
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Online YellowHammer

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #24 on: June 05, 2021, 08:27:21 AM »
I think we are all saying pretty much the same thing.

Every sawing pattern has trade offs, this pattern will produce very flat and straight (almost no cup, very little crook) boards.  However, itís crucial to watch for the stress in the cant when sawing and rotate out of it.  This pattern will produce lumber with some slight bow, but staying out of the stress will reduce that.

Also, especially with high sapwood hardwood, such as walnut and cherry, itís imperative to get out of the sapwood, which will really pull a board as it dries.  Learn how to identify all the different wood types and boundaries in a log, (itís in there and has a story to tell, you just have to find it) and try to totally contain them in one board, not have transitions in the board.  Those will be bad actors.  

Sawing straight wood means paying attention to every single board that comes off the mill, both as itís being sawn, as well as how it looks when it comes by in the dragback.  It can be done in a glance, but takes a little practice, but Iíve had people stand next to me when Iím sawing and not know how to slice up a piece of cheese, and by the end of a few hours, be able to ďcallĒ the rotations and flips real time.  

Also, there are no real hard and fast rules, if you follow a fixed pattern there will always be a few bad boards.  When Iím sawing a low dollar log, itís not as crucial, but if Iím sawing a $1,000 log, I pay a little more attention.

For example, Iíd recommend you go back through the stack you just got out and look at the grain and see which direction the boards bends.  I guarantee the vertical grains sawn ones will have mostly crook, the flatsawn ones will have mostly bow.  Some will have twist, and will have a spiral type cut pattern.  Some will just be what they are because they are ornery.

I have an advantage because we dry, sell and clean up every board I mill, so if I have flat boards when I stocking the shelves, thatís good.  If I have crooked or bowed boards and canít put them on the shelf, and have to spend time to fix them, then it means I can only blame myself.

Anyway, it come with experience and desire, and youíll have it down pat in no time.  Just learn from the ones youíve done to improve the ones you will do.  

Learn how to identify shake instantly, it is probably about the only defect that you canít correct, and it will ruin every board that it is in.  Totally unsellable.  


YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wonít roll, its not a log; itís still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyíre burned, and you canít fix them.  Donít burn the cookies.

Offline DixieReb31

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #25 on: June 05, 2021, 03:29:44 PM »
Much thanks to all who have given their knowledge freely.  Very much appreciated!
When I grow up I want to be as smart as you guys!
WM LT35HD, John Deere 2040, John Deere 4044 w/FEL, Grapple, forks.

Offline customsawyer

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #26 on: June 11, 2021, 06:55:08 AM »
In looking at the end grain of the lumber. It looks like you squared up to a about a 8" cant and then split it in half to get 2 boards at a time. As you have now learned that don't turn out the best lumber. We all had to learn the same lesson.
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Offline Magicman

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #27 on: June 12, 2021, 11:16:52 AM »
Refer back to Reply #19 that alan gage made.  Pay attention to the first link that he shared and the sawing procedure detailed there.  Also review WDH 's Reply #23 above.

No matter what you do you will occasionally have a log that had a bad history and it's lumber will give you problems.


 
This is over 4Mbf of 2X4's sawn from 17 logs, one of which exhibited stress and produced 4X4's with some crook.  Thankfully it was one of the smallest log so not much heartburn.  As you can see, they are laying dead straight.

When sawing framing lumber, saw down to your targeted cant from the sides and saw through from either the hump or horn faces.  You should not have to "look" for the sweep in a log because very few are completely straight with a centered pith.
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Online Don P

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Re: What am I doing wrong?
« Reply #28 on: June 12, 2021, 12:07:47 PM »
This is a good chapter from the Wood Handbook to become familiar with. There is a lot of technical jargon and tables which you should not use for designing a building... but, the general information in this chapter is gold.
Wood Handbook--Chapter 4--Mechanical Properties of Wood (fs.fed.us)

I'd start with the section on knots, pg 27. Notice in that section a knothole would actually be a stronger stick than a nice intergrown red knot, they explain why, its all about slope of grain. On pg 30 is a section on ring orientation, someone made a comment about strength in relation to orientation, there is the gospel, kind of depends on which strength property we are talking about. Anyway that is a very good chapter, one I have read and reread since I bought my first copy with lawn mowing money, and I understand something new just about every time. There is a lot there and in my fifth decade of reading that section I am apparently one of the slow children  :D
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