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Best Way To Level Stationary Mill

Started by pezrock, September 12, 2021, 12:42:02 AM

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pezrock

I am having trouble getting every bunk side to side and end to end perfectly level. The bubble is between the lines but not dead center. I've spent hours with a 48" level stick. Can someone advise the best technique? I have treated 1x6 on top of pavers on top of packed gravel and know I will have to adjust every now and then. I have a WM HM 130Max with the feet. 

leeroyjd

Use  some string and a string level. Good string that you can pull very tight. Put a block of wood with identical dimensions on each end bunk with the string on top of it end to end lengthwise. Then measure from string to bunk. 

doc henderson

masons use little wooden blocks for string with grooves.  prob. 2 bucks at Lowes.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Quebecnewf

I use a water level . Clear tubes ( 2) that go onto the opposite ends of a garden hose . Dead accurate and very good over longer lengths . 

Quebecnewf 

JoshNZ

I had the same dilemma a while back when sinking in piles, then I remembered I own a laser level! Worthwhile bit of gear to have, I think.

But a clear hose with water in it will do the same thing yup

moodnacreek

The absolute best is an old fashioned transit.

Patrick NC

I'm portable and I use a 4' level and masons string when I set up. Being flat is more important than being perfectly level. I usually level the mill at the front and back with about a half inch lower at the log stop side so logs won't roll back off the loading side. Then I use a string line pulled tight across the bunks to fine tune. I've found that as long as its on a flat plane I can be off an inch or two from level down the length of the mill without affecting anything. As a matter of fact,  when I had a push feed mill I set it up with 2 inches of fall down the length to make it easier to push. 
Norwood HD36, Husky 372xp xtorq, 550xp mk2 , 460 rancher, Kubota l2501, Case 1845 skid steer,

Lostinmn

I've found a tight string with a handful of larger nuts (obviously of the same size  :D) works great for level plane long the mill.  Use a nut under the string on each end and then set a nut just to the side of the string on each bunk.  I like a string on both sides of the mill at the same time to see how each adjustment effects the rest of the mill bed.

Easy to see if each portion of the frame needs to to up or down to get a level plane by how the string sits next to the nut, but never worry about the string bottoming out in one area and effecting the others.

Best of luck!

firefighter ontheside

I set mine up with the front end about an inch higher than the far end so that gravity is helping propel the mill forward.  Use a string to make sure that one side or the other straight and set the feet on that side.  Then I level across at each end and set those feet.  Use the string on the other side and make sure the rail is straight.  In the end, remember you're not building a piano.  I have painted spots on the concrete so I can move the mill back to where it belongs occasionally.  The mill will always get knocked around when loading logs.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
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Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

scsmith42

I use a laser level. Fast and accurate and one person operation.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Joe Hillmann

I use a monofilament fishing line  stretched tight end to end and shims on each end to keep the line exactly 1 inch above the bunks.

I found fishing line allows me to be more accurate than masons line.  If I really wanted accuracy I would use dacron fishing line so I can strech it much tighter than regular monofilament.

pezrock

4 Hours to level and flatten 16' feet. I used 1 string on the East side and one on the West side end bunk to end bunk each with  string bubble levels. I set the string height at 90 mm using pieces of wood across the bunks. I planed an 86.5 mm (to account for stainless steel bunk overlays) wood stick. I adjusted until the wood stick slid under each bunk and just touched both east and west string. Perfect right? Nope!!! The mill rolled North to South like it was in a soap box derby. So I broke out 2 48"" stick levels and a 12" level. Started from scratch. I think I'm within about 1/16 or less blade to each bunk and no more runaway mill. I didn't have a clear tube for a water level and wasn't doing a 2 hour round trip for one but in the end maybe it would've been faster. I think 1 string bubble level was off. Not sure if that is even possible but it never matched the other one, even when I put them on the same string. *DanG this process was hell. Can't wait for spring to do it again. 

THANKS FOR THE TIPS

doc henderson

I have wood bunks on soil.  I start leveling side to side at the level (jack) locations.  then I check long ways between the jacks.  if the middle is sagging, I lift the two middle ones each a turn.  each adjustment may throw another off.  It can take several cycles.  my mill has a tongue jack and two wheels to start with.  I saw the flattest lumber of any sawmill (that I know of) in Hutchinson, Ks! :D :D :D.  I have never used a string.  my blade height off the bunks follows the frame as I have a 4 post head.  I have rarely spent more than 15 minutes, and I mostly use the Stanley max magnetic torpedo level.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

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it has a groove machined along the bottom and is magnetic so it fits on the round track that my gantry rides on.  I like the water level idea, go Romans!
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

YellowHammer

I've not used that mill but generally, having them not level has benefits, and doesn't affect accuracy.  For example, I have mine tilted slightly backward to have the log want to roll slightly against the backstops.  Also, when I had my old manual mill I had it where the head side was lower than the far side, so it made it easier to pull back after a cut.

Getting the bunks flat in the same plane is important, and that's where I simply use a very stiff piece of 12 foot long extruded aluminum.  I simply lay it on bunks, see which are high or low and make a quick adjustment with the leg jacks.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

maple flats

The problem with a water level is that the hose must either be out of the sun or in the sun 100% to be accurate, half in half out skews the accuracy.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Lynwoo

I'm an old carpenter so string line for me with four pieces planned pecan clamped to rails, then string, then torpedo level.  Level is good but the rails in the same plane as the head is a winner.  Setup stays in my mill toolbox 

maple flats

Since I have both an auto leveling laser and a manual leveling laser I'll use one of them, most likely the auto (self leveling) because it's quicker. It is accurate to within 1/16" in 150', should be close enough I'd say. With my mill being on the trailer, I just need to adjust the attached jacks after getting a solid footing under each jack.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Larry

I have water levels, sight level (transit), laser level, and good old masons string.  By far the most accurate way to level a mill is your eye.  Also the fastest.  Its a amazing instrument and can detect variations of a few thousandths.

Start by putting a level on one rail(on a four post mill).  If you want gravity to help run the carriage down hill adjust the rail now.  This is just a rough adjustment.  Next sight down this rail with your eye and adjust until it looks straight.  This is the important adjustment so take your time.  Nest step is to put your level across the bunks and make sure the bubble looks the same on all bunks.  Done.

If your anal you can get a Starrett machine level $$$$$'s which is accurate to a cat's half whisker.  You will find the mill in near perfect alignment.....I've done it. 

Usually takes me about 10 minutes to level my mill.  Usually takes a couple of big logs rolled on to knock it out of level.  They still make good lumber if close, so don't worry.



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