Rebuild 346 XP Top End ???

Started by g_man, March 30, 2023, 06:01:06 PM

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g_man

I cooked my 346 XP yesterday. Cutting firewood. Stalled after a cut. Restarted for the next cut and seized half way through.



 


I've been expecting this for a while. It has given me long and reliable service - owes me nothing. The best 50 cc saw I have ever run. Anyway, in thinking about what to do, rebuild for a spare saw or trash, I see that Husqvarna top end parts are no longer available from reliable sources. But I find on Amazon and e-bay top end kits that claim to be Husqvarna OEM - seems a stretch ??

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Genuine-346XP-Cylinder-544142908/dp/B07L38LXQS

Anyone with experience or opinion on the quality of these kits ?  Or thoughts on whether it is even worth it to consider rebuilding.

gg

doc henderson

after i had my 046 a while, I joked with a stihl mechanic about getting it rebuilt if it ever went broke.  He said at the time, it would not be worth it.  I think I paid 300 bucks, and it was my only real saw for years.  Sylvan has passed but 4 years ago I asked him the same thing, and now over 1200 bucks, he said he absolutely would rebuild it.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

I'd rebuild it, even if it was aftermarket parts. Check to see if you have the updated metal clamp for the carb boot. Many of those 346 and related chassis saws died an early death due to an air leak there.
Too many irons in the fire

Old Greenhorn

I think that is pretty much the same as the 350 isn't it? I just rebuilt one and I got an aftermarket P&C but I had a problem getting the ring in and butchered the first one. Bob had an old one (OEM) and I put that on and it works great. I use it for a fill in around the yard and such. Still needs a little card tweak, but you can't beat those saws.
 So Yeah, I'd rebuild it.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

ehp

rebuild it and use OEM parts , make sure you check the crank bearing and seals or just put new ones in, those 346's are one of the best 50cc saws ever made 

NYH1

I have a NE 346XP (50cc).  If it blew up, I'd definitely rebuild it.  Great little saws for sure.

NYH1.
Husky NE346XP 16/18" b&c,  365XT 20/24" b&c, 435 16" b&c
Jonsered CS2258 18" b&c
Homelite Super XL Auto
]Stihl 021 14/16" b&c, 036 Pro project saw
Amsoil Saber Oil, 50:1, 90 oct. E-free Fuel.

newoodguy78

I've got one of those 346's if mine pops it'll get rebuilt. For what it is and what it's been used for it owes me nothing great little saw in my opinion. 

g_man

Thanks for all the comments ! I needed to check that my desire to rebuild it actually made sense and wasn't just because I liked the saw so much. Barbender, it's a 2010 saw near the end of the manufacture and has the metal strap clamp on the intake manifold. Thanks for pointing out that that was an early problem.

gg

Spike60

That top end looks legit, and that is about the right price as well. 346 top ends really aren't very expensive. 
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

LeeB

I did a P&C on mine 6 or 7 years ago. Wasn't hard to do and well worth the money. Now I need to figure out how to get a broke off exhaust screw out of it.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Tom King

Left hand Cobalt drill bit.  It will drill into the screw, and at the critical point the bit will grab (you don't have to do anything) and the screw will back right out.

LeeB

'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

barbender

Yes, the person that can get a hole centered and drilled in one of those exhaust bolts has my respect! 
Too many irons in the fire

LeeB

I'd hate to have to change out the jug just because of a broke off screw.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

weimedog

Fortunately 346 top ends are available. I have three OEM's. Seals as well. Easy saws to "make right". 
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

doc henderson

Lee can you take it to a machine shop guy?  or drill it out and re-tap and or go oversize.  do not go too deep!  I assume steel bolt in aluminum.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

sablatnic

Stainless steel bolt, don't let it get hot, it will harden. Cool with water.
I have done it, but I wouldn't like doing it again!