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Author Topic: Microkerf Blade  (Read 4217 times)

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Offline Danny Dimm

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Microkerf Blade
« on: January 01, 2008, 11:07:01 PM »
Has any one tried the micro kerf blade? What is it's diameter? How does it handle softwoods with big knots?

Offline Part_Timer

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Re: Microkerf Blade
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2008, 06:11:44 PM »
Danny I have one in 8" that I run on the ATS.  I don't run much softwood unless you consider Sycamore,walnut or cherry  soft.  Just slow down for the hard knots  It runs in hardwoods great.  you will not find to may of them here in the states yet.  I had to do some measuring of my mill cut patern to get mine sent over.    Ask any questions you have I'd be happy to fill you in on my experiances.
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Offline Danny Dimm

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Re: Microkerf Blade
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2008, 11:59:37 PM »
I run a lucas and expect to be cutting quite a bit of 1 and 2 by six soon. I'm sure it would be easy enough to make a collar to adapt the peterson blade. I have a friend with a resaw but the green cants are to heavy. I cut mostly doug fir and ponderosa pine. Any info or tips on the microkerf blade would sure be appriciated. I've been around logging and mills for the last 30 years so know a fair bit but I also  know there's always more to learn. The peterson guys from
Canada don't seem to have a clue about the micro blade but it sure seems to be a good idea. I generally retip my own blades and take them to a doctor once a year or so for a good tune up. Is the micro blade as rugged?

Offline Part_Timer

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Re: Microkerf Blade
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2008, 05:59:09 PM »
I don't know a lot about blade work, mine go to a saw doc.  You might call Aaron at Petersons to see if they might send you a spec sheet. To be honest I think that there are only 2 or 3 of the micro kerfs here in the states that get run on a regular basis.  If you do a search on the sawmilling section there is a thread on "which blade" ??  somewhere in there they talk about the differance in blade speeds between the Lucas and Peterson.  That would be something to keep in mind.  Captain and Logdog seem to be 2 of the most knowledgable guys on here when it comes to blade specs.   You could PM them or post a link to this thread in the sawmilling section. 

As far a rugged you sure don't want to hit any metal with it.  I hit a piece of fence wire parallel with the blade and knocked all the corners off the tips.  A metal detector is a must.  It's had to be retensioned once but it was my fault, I ran out of water and didn't notice untill it was to late.   It does run well in oak,cherry, and osage.  The only thing I have noticed is that it will make wavey boards if you try to pull to fast and aren't using the pull handle like you should. 

Hope all this long windedness helps
Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Online Furby

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Re: Microkerf Blade
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2008, 06:07:33 PM »
I belive this is the thread Part_Timer is talking about, might be able to jump in there with your questions as well. :)
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=28431.0

Offline wtf

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Re: Microkerf Blade
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2008, 07:58:29 PM »
Danny,
Where are yu getting your tips?

Russ
Russ

Offline Danny Dimm

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Re: Microkerf Blade
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2008, 09:59:30 AM »
I've ordered them online, but I usually get them from Simonds in Langley. [City just out of Vancouver about 3 1/2 hrs from here.] I have my own grinder so I just get pre tinned blanks close to the kerf I want. I have got pre ground tips but I found it very difficult to put them on in exactly the right spot. The name brand for the tips I bought online is Camco. The price has always worked out to just over 50 cents apiece and they come in boxes of 250.


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