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Author Topic: Timberjack 209D Wont move.  (Read 3852 times)

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Offline TimberRocks!

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Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« on: January 15, 2011, 12:23:36 PM »
Hi. I Found this site while searching for info on my grandfathers old tj 209d skidder. I recently took an intrest in this old piece of iron :) so i decided to try and pull it to my garage to fix it up. But what i found is that my jd backhoe could not even move this machine an inch. My grandfather did have this machine running in recent years because i am only 19 and i can remeber him running it. The motor isnt running yet but i had it chuggin on starting fluid and it seems like it will run well once i clean the fuel system and get it to pick up fuel. I would do that and see if i could drive it to my garage but its january cold and id much rather work in my warm garage :D. Its seems to me that its in the brake drums because i could turn the input shaft and the pto shaft to the winch but not the driveshafts to the axels. Are these drums like some modern equip. that they need hyd. pressure to release the brakes? I also lifted the machine off the ground and could spin the wheels so its not the planatarys but i could only get one wheel to spin at a time..limited slip i think. Any info on these can help me. I found nothing for a 209d and not a picture of another one on the net.. rare machine?   

Offline H60 Hawk Pilot

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2011, 01:08:59 PM »
Can't help you on the move part, sounds like the drive shaft brake shoes are frozen to the drum from setting.

I have started a lot detroit's and other engines in cold weather. I have a small generator and two jet type kero. heaters. I put one one  each side of the engine a let them run for about 1 hour. I tarp the top of the engine to hold the heat in. You have side shields that need to be removed to gain access. How close you set the heaters is  dependant on how dirty and oily the motor is ?   Don't set the engine on fire, take one or two fire extinguisers along and keep a close eye on everything.

You have fuel sys. work to do and can be helped by having the heater running close by you to keep you warm and thaw fuel lines too. Take about five (5) 2 x 4's or small sections of plywood to stick across the top of the hood. Let some of the canvas drape down to the ground to keep the heat in. Most likely your taking battery's with you, have them charged up and keep warm until we're ready to crank.

Take along a pair of jumper's to run from your truck to the battery to help keep the battery's up if prolonged cranking is an issue. Don't crank the engine longer that 30 seconds at a time and 3 to 5 minute rest between cranks to save the starter. Don't over heat (cook) the starter, a rebuilt one is over $ 250.00 to buy today.

Again, the detroit will fire up in the coldest weather .. if the fuel system is 100% and eng. has compression and was running when parked. Don't get carried away with starting fluid. Just mist it in when the engine is turning over, never before it turns over. The 2 cycle eng. does not have heavy duty connecting rods and do not take kindly to using a lot of either in them (bent rods).    

If you have fuel going to the detroit injectors... it will fire in the coldest weather. Drain both filters and / or replace them and  add 5 gal. of fresh diesel and have fuel flow all the way to the fuel lines going to engine.

I have other ways of pushing fuel through the engine. If I hear back from you I will cover the bleeding and fuel system with you. I use air pressure in the fuel tank and/ or  12 volt electric fuel pump to push fuel trough the fuel system.

*** Very very important the tank has (condensation, water droplets inside) collected water in it from setting and all this water needs to be drain from the bottom of the fuel tank and lowest fuel lines in fuel system. Do not suck this water into the eng. injector's.

Avery    
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

Offline nhlogga

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2011, 03:36:06 PM »
Some of those skidders had a micro lock for a parking brake. It is a small round lever to the right of the seat. The brakes may be froze to the drum from sitting. The drum I believe is located on the the rear of the machine. Good luck.
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Offline lumberjack48

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2011, 04:55:31 PM »
Take the front and the back u joint off, 8 bolts or nuts, then pull or push in the garage, [ just a thought ] then find the trouble, most likely the brake band.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Offline TimberRocks!

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2011, 08:12:32 PM »
Thanks for all the info. As for the mechanical part i am no expert but i have a good knowledge of diesel engines and heavy equipment. I had worked in a limestone quarry for just 1 month shy of a year and did alot of work on real large quipment and my family has been in the lumber business since 1912 so equip is part of my life. I had considerd taking the drive shafts off but just wonderd if there was something simpler that i was overlooking or just did not know. That is most likley the route i will take. I believe this is not a detriot model. I havnt look close at it but i believe it is a perkins motor. I will try to get some pictures up asap if anyone might be intrested in seeing it. It apears to be a real strong and clean machine for its age. It has a hercules winch and from what i read on here most of you guys say they are the best. Im not exactly sure of the year and i dont know if i have a service manual for this machine that i can find. Is deere the only company that offers these manuals? If anyone has a better way of finding one maybe even emailing me a copy of thier manual if somone might have it on their computer. I am heading in the direction that the drum brakes are siezed tight. but wont know more till i get it inside. It does have a small leaver for a park brake but it seems to be hyd controled and does nothing to change anything. Still anymore info on this machine would be appreicated.

Offline H60 Hawk Pilot

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2011, 08:36:58 PM »
If it is a Perkin's Let me Know ?

The Perkins is fine engine and has a high pressure fuel pump. Make sure you get all the water out of the fuel system before you suck it into (cranking suck's H2O in fuel pump) in the engine fuel system. If you suck it into the fuel pump and it freeze's over night.. serious damage can result. Also, it may have already migrated (from fuel tank) down there because water is heavier than fuel and will go downward in any fuel system. It will not be sucked inside the high pressure pump unless you suck it inside by cranking the engine with water in fuel system. 

Let me know and if your Not familiar.. I'll walk you through the fuel system on any engine you have in the 209.

Avery
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

Offline lumberjack48

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2011, 08:53:51 PM »
If that's a Perkins there's a little lever on the fuel pump, crack a injector line and pump the lever, you will see right away if you have fuel, this is the way you bleed the air out of the system.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Offline bushmechanic

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2011, 08:18:12 AM »
I personally never heard tell of a 209D,but it might have been made,lots of things I have not seen yet.The only Timberjack that I know of having a Perkins engine was the 217D,google that and see if it looks like yours.I agree with lumberjack48 take the driveline apart and get it in the warm.There is no brake release on the rear ends and you can only spin one wheel because of the non-spin in the differential.Keep us updated on your progress.

Offline TimberRocks!

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2011, 11:50:29 AM »
I will have more on it tonite i plan on workin on it today and if i find time ill get some pics up. I didnt find any pics on a 217 but im positive its a 209d. It has the original serial # plate and says the model is a 209d. Must be a Rare machine that i can figure. I promise to get some pics up if anyone is intrested.

Offline Mark K

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Re: Timberjack 209D Wont move.
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2011, 12:28:15 PM »
According to the computer a 209d has a 4-236 perkins in it. Made from 68 on. Has a drum brake similar to my 225 under the winch. I highly doubt that the maxi-lock has kept brakes on all this time. If it's been outside and cold it could be water in the transfer case or axles frozen keeping things from turning. Good luck 
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