sprocket question, Jonsred CS2250S

[fluidpowerpro]

I need to replace the drive sprocket on my Jonsred CS2250S. The saw I have has a toothed sprocket and most replacements Im finding on line are what I think is called a rim sprocket. Can I use a rim sprocket or will I need to stay with a toothed?
Thanks,
Tom

[lurk]

You would need to change the clutch drum to a splined version to take the rim sprocket.

I think after a quick peruse of the web, the sprocket you have now is a 578097901 which also fits some Husky's and other brands.

[fluidpowerpro]

Thank you for your help. The kits I'm looking at include the clutch drum so if that is included will I be OK. Where is the spline? I just took mine off and the clutch has a smooth bore.

[fluidpowerpro]

I did some detective work myself and see that yes, that P/N is listed as the one for my saw. Just wondering, is one type better that the other, toothed vs rim? 
Thanks again.
Tom

[doc henderson]

I think the spline would be on the outer side (opposite the clutch) for the rim sprocket to slide on.

[lxskllr]

I like rims. Faster and easier to change. Less waste. A spare can be easily kept in your field bag. Rims also seem smoother when worn, though I haven't compared like saws to know for sure.

[DHansen]

I prefer rim over spur.  I have switched from spur to rim on some Husqvarna's.  Then you even have the option to change rims from 7 to 8 tooth of you want to play with chain speed.  All in all I would go to a rim design.

[DHansen]

I did one on a Husqvarna 61 removed a worn spur style and converter to rim.  I played with both 8 and 7 tooth drive sprocket.  More chain speed with the 8 and more torque with the 7.  Was a very easy job.

[DHansen]

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=119014.msg1967086#msg1967086

This link is from my switch from spur to rim on the 61.  I have done the same on a 49.  In soft wood like pine the 8 tooth is awesome on the 61 and an 18" bar.  Fast cutting and very noticeable improvement over the 7 tooth.    But in red oak the 7 tooth is my preference. 

[Spike60]

Everyone's advice is correct regarding the rim set up being a better way to go. And cheaper in the long run, as future replacements will only require a rim vs a new drum/sprocket.

But one thing to keep an eye on is that both the rim and spur style drums must match the oil gear. Comsumer saws like the 2250 came with spur set ups, while pro saws like the 2253 came with the rim style. Previous generation saws like the 2150/2153 matched up OK even if the oil gears had different part numbers. (depth I think, and perhaps some play where the drum meets the gear). Have to make sure this is the case with the 2250. I'll see what I can turn up. Quickest way might be to look through the tray of oil gears I have. 

As most know, the 2150/2153 shared a LOT of parts. Nearly the same saw with either a plastic or magnesium case. Not so with the 22xx saws. 

[Spike60]

Scrap the rim idea fellas. As suspected, there is a fit problem between the drum and oil gear. Best to stick with the factory set up for this saw.