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Ford truck - Engine light

Started by DonE911, September 12, 2005, 10:15:26 AM

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DonE911

 :D :D :D

Now everyone knows the dealers make all the money in the service department....

The code said FDET sensor or something along those lines...  can't see real good but the tubing connector looks like it turns down into the general area of the head.   The truck is one of the cruise control recall models....  I call the dealership and they check my vin agains the recall....  mine didn't have to go in, but it was optional if I wanted them to disconnect my cruise until the parts came in... now is that stupid or what....  I bet I've gotten 20 notices on the recall if I got one.

flip

Now wait just a minute >:(  I work at a FOrd dealer and not all dealers are crooks.  The problem you have is a DPFE problem.  This sensor tells the computer when the EGR valve is open so the computer can adjust fuel trims accordingly.  The light will probably come back on because the sensor is bad too and you might have an engine fire because the hose is connected to a tube comming off the exhaust manifold and it gets hot!!
As far as the cruise control...do what you want  we should have parts in a month or so but it is a good idea to look at the sensor and make sure it's not leaking fluid and if you don't use your cruise just unplug the connector on top of the master cylinder-cheap insurance.
ABS light.  Take it back to autozone and see if you get a P0500, if you do replace the speed sensor mounted in the top of the rear differential, it can cause shift and speedometer problems.

Just my .02 from a former technician turned service advissor ;D
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

DonE911

 :o :o :o

yes, DPFE thats it...  why would the sensor be bad and if it is will I notice a change in MPG?  The hole that rubbed thru was bigger than a pencil eraser...  off the top of your head if you can, what does the correct hose cost?  that hose runs into the exhaust and they use rubber??   

I didn't say anyone was a crook... don't get me wrong...  I'm just stating that it's tooooo costly to take the thing to te dealer after the warantee is up.  Dealer only parts are to much $$$ and its simply silly the aftermarket can not supply them.  If you can geta starter at NAPA ( or wherever) why can't you get a winshield whipper arm ( not the blade, the actual arm ) for that same vehicle at the parts store.

I am sorry if you took offense... that was not intended.  The mark up on new vehicles is not high enough to keep dealers in business... overhead is to high and there's always another dealer in the next county to play the price war with.

I had a mechanic ( did work at a dealership, but now with own shop ) pull the codes when the problem first came up(ABS).  He told me such and such sensors were bad, but the brakes will still work just not abs.  The sensors were on back order and not cheap so I just forgot about it.  The speedo is good and only off by a MPH and  half last time I checked (tire wear?)...  Because of my work we got calibrated whenever we wanted.   As for shifting... the trani went out in less than 12 months on this truck.... dealership had it repaired and back to me in one day... kudos for them... must have been a common problem to get it fixed so fast....  it was running 5k rpm to make 20mph... no problems since and that was in 2001.

You may know, will any of these electric issues kill the factory wired tow package?  I rewired the thing myself, but It was dead from the connector under the dash back.  That happened after the trani, but before the ABS thing.    Fuses are all okay. 

Finally did the guy I talked to have the right info?? Did the recall not apply to vehicle manufactured before a certain date even though the model year is the same?? This would be ref the cruise control

Hope I didn't wear you out with questions or make you danG mad.

ScottAR

Get your dealer parts at www.powerstrokeshop.com/   Their really cheap compared to my local dealer, even with shipping.  Just a happy customer...
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

flip

No I'm just playin' with ya ;D  I get this stuff all day. 

The hoses are actually about $6.00 each and made out of a high temp silicone.  The sensor WILL effect fuel mileage and will ususally give you a surge while driving at steady speeds.  The hoses actually have exhaust gasses pass through them that's why they melt down.

THe scope of the cruse recall 05S28 was expanded because the same switch was used on other trucks, acutally I've seen more older model trucks melt the switch down than the newer ones ::)  Idiot engineers, I cut a switch apart to see what the problem was-3 small thin plastic disks seperate brake fluid pressure (2500psi) from the electrical contacts can you say duh? ::)

You said you checked the fuses, but... did you check the ones under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side?  The trailer lights, turn, and braking fuses are all in there.  99% of the time one of those fuses is popped.

If anyone has any problems on a FORD I am happy to answer what I can.  I owe a lot to the Forum and the people on it for all the free info. I got here.

Flip
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

DonE911

Thanks Flip... and I'm glad you aren't upset. 

I guess I'm going to drive down to the Ford dealer ( actually not one in my county ) and get the right hose....  seeing its not a $30 part.  I hav to make a 12 hour round trip this weekend and a fire under the hood would not be a good thing.

I checked the under hood fuses and they were fine... I actually replaced some just in case, but that didn't help... no big deal now since its rewired and working fine.

Thanks again.

DonE911

Just for anyone with the same problem....

I called Ford for the parts....  the sensor is $70 and the hose is $5 a foot...  2 feet required.



Thanks to everyone for the help.

beenthere

flip
You may be hearing from Kirk. Sounds like he has one of the '58 vintage.  He's so young, he thinks it's old  ;D :D :D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Kirk_Allen

Hey now, I resemble that comment ;D


rebocardo

> DPFE thats it...  why would the sensor be bad

Gets loaded up with exhaust carbon and what have you. Usually located on top of or near the EGR valve. Anyone care to "guess" what the acronym really means? I think they have engineers employeed just to dream up these names for emission parts   :D


DonE911

Ok... the sensor is changed and the hoses too....  $94 after taxes. 

Took 10 minutes not including the 15 min break I took in the middle of the job do to rain.

for those that said the sensor was probably bad also..... well your at least half right.  The thing is made out of plastic and part of the hose connector had melted ( ??? ) and was blocking the flow by about half.

I dropped one of the 8MM nuts that holds it on and the engine compartment moster must have eaten it. Now its got a 3/8's nut on it ;)... now that makes  2 8MM nut, one 3/8's nut, 2 10MM nuts to change one frig'n little part..... 

DPFE     stands for      DanG Poor Frig'n Excuse :)

DouginUtah

Quote from: DonE911 on September 16, 2005, 02:00:20 PM
DPFE     stands for      DanG Poor Frig'n Excuse :)

Or possibly "Differential Pressure Feedback EGR"  ;D  :D  :D  :D

-Doug
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

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