Scribing and cutting the lateral groove

[woodbowl]

When I took the scribe fit course from Pat Wolfe 20 years ago, we used only a few basic tools to build the complete cabin, it was great. One of the things that was very time consuming was edging the lateral groove. Score the line with a razor knife, back off 1/8", use the chainsaw to edge as close to the score line as possible, then use a chisel to true up to the score line. I've often thought that a very small hand held rotary tool could make quick work of the process by scoring the line deep enough in one pass.

Also, hollowing out the lateral groove was quite a chore. Making a very shallow "V" groove with the chainsaw and finishing it with a curved adz made a very nice rounded trough. Someone in our class mentioned a tool that looked like a golf ball with rasp type teeth, on the end of a chainsaw bar or other extension.

What has changed over the years? Are there quicker ways to do things these days?   :P

[kboilers]

 36 grit sanding discs on an angle grinder make for quick sanding to the scribe line.  However it's also easy to go right by the line.  It was awkward to hold and see the line at the same time.  I ended up holding the grinder vertically and leaned over the grinder so I could see the line.
   If I build another one, I might try hand sanding to the scribe line.  It will take longer, but it will be easier on the body – hands, ears, and lower back. 

[RMS]

I agree with the angle grinder - very quick! I did it by holding the grinder with the handle up and in my right hand. Operated the trigger with my thumb. Sanding disc would be facing me and I would walk backwards along the log. This way I could always keep the scribe line in sight.

As for the lateral, I used a "six pass" method with the chainsaw (I think I've heard this called the "W cut" or something of that nature). Probably not the quickest way but it seemed to use the least effort:
Passes 1 and 2 were tracer cuts just inside the scribe line about 3/4" deep using the tip of the bar pointed almost directly to the center of the log.
Passes 3 and 4 would cut to the tracer cut on the opposite side while holding the bar as close to horizontal as possible. Take care not to cut the scribe line nearest to you.
Passes 5 and 6 would take care of the ridge in the center left by 3 & 4.

I would then check with a cookie about the same diameter as the log I was fitting to. Any remaining hangups would be brushed down with the chainsaw. This would leave me with a relatively shallow cove, typically no more than 1" space between the logs.

Hope that helps!

[Radar67]

Olen, you're the inventive type, so why not use a skilsaw on an angle? You would have to build a sled to ride the log. Just a hand held version of cutting cove molding with a table saw.

[woodbowl]

A tiny skill saw would be nice. I'm visualizing something a little smaller than a 90° die grinder that is used to cut muffler pipe. A  2" mini saw blade would follow a scibe line well with the exception of a few squirly spots. Something that fits in one hand would be highly maneuverable if it didn't have so much power and rpm to run away like air tools can do. I don't know of an electric grinder that small. With the scribe line true from the get-go, it doesn't seem that splinters would pull a chunk out across the scribe line.

[Don P]

I've wondered about a router upside down with a pin sticking out of it following the top of the log below and cutting the log above. The rest of the jig has me stumped  ???.

[ARKANSAWYER]

                                           ROTO CLIP is what I use.

                                             http://rotoclipinc.com/

[Max sawdust]

We use a chainsaw and make the "W" cut described by RMS.  No need to score the line  as you are ripping with the grain, the chainsaw cut is smooth.  Par to the line with a chisel.  If proficient with the chainsaw very little parring is needed.

Not all job sites have electricity  ya know  

A draw knife, scribe, Chainsaw, Mallet and Chisel are all that is needed.. Note.. only one of those tools make noise 8)
max

[Loghead]

When I took Mackies class we used a very very sharp hatchet easy to work with, and best of all no dust no  noise  8) 8)

[underdog]

If you got the big money  :-\
http://woodlandia.ca/machines/combined-log-lathe/log-lathe-usage
Claims to automate the whole process.

[TW]

I follow the scribe line as close as possible with the chainsaw. Then I finish with a sharp axe. Normally I have to use the axe only in a few spots.

Because of this my long grooves become shallowly V-shaped.

[woodbowl]

I follow the scribe line as close as possible with the chainsaw. Then I finish with a sharp axe. Normally I have to use the axe only in a few spots.

TW, when you follow the scribe line with the chainsaw, have you had problems with the line erasing from being too close? Is your line cut aimed at the heart, cut straight down or another angle?

[jander3]

I use a chainsaw to cut the groove (W cut or V cut depending on the size of the groove).  Next, I clean up the groove area with an axe, a curved adze, and a handle-bar gouge.  Finally, I use a disc sander so I can sand to the scribe line. 

For the log to fit correctly, leave the line.  Cut close with the saw, remove the wood, and clean up to the line.  However, when your log is complete, you should be able to see the scibe line along the entire length of the log (there should be no wood visible inside the line).  As you practice with a chainsaw, you will find that you can get very close to the scribe line and very little clean up is needed.

At one time I used an axe and handle-bar gouge to clean up to the line, then someone showed me the disc sander.  Big improvement.  You have to use very good eye protection (like goggles) to see the line while your sanding because this operation will throw sawdust near your face.

When I run into knots and tough spots, I clean these up with an axe.

If you plan to cut a lot of grooves a 65 cc saw works pretty good.  I have heard of guys that cut grooves with a 65 cc saw and 14" bar. I 've never tried the short bar, but I will one day.

I make two cuts just inside the scribe lines (about 3/4" deep) as close to the scribe line as possible. The saw is pretty much straight up and down (maybe pointed toward the center just a bit).  These cuts guide the saw for subsequent cuts.  Then I make two deeper cuts (using the 3/4" cuts as guides; stand on the side of the log that lets you cut with the gas cap pointing up) with saw angled in toward the center of scribed area.  When these cuts are completed, cut from the center with the saw angled towards the outer line.  Repeat from the other side.  You are trying to cut a long triangular shaped piece of wood out of the log.  When the two sections of wood are removed, you will be left with a raised section right down the center.  Two more cuts (V) will take this out.  Sometimes, a crowbar is handy for breaking out the wood after making the cuts.
   
Jon
www.peelinglogs.blogspot.com