I need to build a building...........too.

[DR Buck]

Like Jeff,  i also need a building.  Sometime this year we hope to retire from our day jobs.  When we sell our farm in Northern Va we are moving to the 1875 farm house we bought last year 125 miles further south.  The house needs a complete remodel but location was the best we could find so we took it.  The more significant problem is the lack of any decent out buildings.    At our current place I have separate buildings for the garage, wood shop, and  sawmill shed.   This time they will all be under the ssme roof.

Today the crew started my new 60 x 52 x 12 structure.    40 x 60 will be enclosed and be divide into the garage and wood shop.  12 x 60 will be an overhang on the backside for the sawmill.

Here is the first load of framing material.

[WmFritz]

Looks a bit warmer then when Jeff's crew put his barn up.

[starmac]

Congrats on the new building.
I have a question about new buildings?
Is there all that much extra initial cost building a 14 foot building versus a 12 foot building? I am a trucker and am amazed at the amount of buildings that folks build that would almost, but not qute accomadate a truck. In this area, a 12 foot building that can not easily be raised is worth considerably less than a 14 foot one, when and if it is ever sold.

[DR Buck]

Day one of the work is complete.   I won't get back down to check on progress until this coming Saturday.   By then they should have the walls up and trusses set.   They estimate about two weeks to complete the work.   

The had to drill 37 16" diameter holes 4 feet deep.    They never hit a single rock.   Nothing but red dirt and clay.








They put 14" diameter 6" thick concrete disks in the bottom of each hole, then the 6 x 6 poles were dropped in on top of them.














It looks really big, but I already know it's not going to be big enough.   ;D

[DDW_OR]

starmac
http://www.nwcustomstructures.com/estimator.html
this is a metal building estimator, i used Oregon
50x60x12 all sides enclosed, one man door and one 12x12 door = $30,167
50x60x14 all sides enclosed, one man door and one 12x12 door = $33,505

[DDW_OR]

DR_Buck
you can always add a 16 foot lean-too to each of the sides
just remember the more square footage = more TAX

[DR Buck]

starmac
http://www.nwcustomstructures.com/estimator.html
this is a metal building estimator, i used Oregon
50x60x12 all sides enclosed, one man door and one 12x12 door = $30,167
50x60x14 all sides enclosed, one man door and one 12x12 door = $33,505

That's the building cost.    Add labor  and concrete for the real cost.

[Tom L]

that is a nice looking piece of property
good luck

[starmac]

starmac
http://www.nwcustomstructures.com/estimator.html
this is a metal building estimator, i used Oregon
50x60x12 all sides enclosed, one man door and one 12x12 door = $30,167
50x60x14 all sides enclosed, one man door and one 12x12 door = $33,505

That's the building cost.    Add labor  and concrete for the real cost.
[/quote

I would think concrete would be the same or very close to it, though you could get by with less if you never planned to have anything as heavy as a truck on it I suppose.
I can't imagine the labor cost to be that much higher just for the difference of 2 foot in height.
The building once finished is close to twice the value in these parts just due to the 2 foot difference though.
I took a friends belongings down to Oklahoma last week, where he had bought a place, including a nice shop, but the shop is basically useless to him until he raises it 2 feet. On the adjoining place his dad built a nice 60 x 100 shop a few years ago, again he built it 12 feet, and it needs to be raised too. A whole lot more expense than it would have been to have built it 14 foot to start with.

[Dave Shepard]

I prefer 16' ceilings:



 

[samandothers]

Looking good!  The house in the back ground is very nice looking!  You indicated you are going south, what area?

[DR Buck]

Looking good!  The house in the back ground is very nice looking!  You indicated you are going south, what area?

Farmville Va.   On the Cumberland County side of the Appomattox River.     The house was built in 1875.   It's been upgraded several times but some of the work is questionable.    My retirement projects include adding a new 1st floor addition and then gutting the old house and insulating and replacing all of the electric and plumbing.   

[DR Buck]

I made a trip to check progress today.    It's been 5 days since they started the job.   Pictures below are as of today.   

One of the things I realized today is how much slope is actually on the property.   Before the building framing started it looked pretty level with just a small amount of slope toward the back.   Well the small amount is about 20" on one corner and 15" on the other.       I called the concrete guy and talked to him about it and he thinks back filling with gravel will be OK  and this is something he normally sees and it's "no big deal".    The floor on the overhang on the back will be at a lower elevation and when I add the walk through door later on the back wall I'll have to have 2 steps down to the sawmill floor level. 


My woodworking shop will be ~28 on the right side looking at the front view.    The remaining 32 feet on the left will be the garage.  And, the sawmill will go under the back overhang.    That's why that concrete will be at ground level.



Front views -













Left & right sides   -   In these you can see the amount of ground slope. 











Back side where 12 x 60 overhang will be located







The wife standing inside of one of the 10' overhead door openings.

[DDW_OR]

here is my floor plan


  


 
will add two removable posts in the 24 foot section when i am not cutting.
most of what i cut is under 14 feet so i will remove one post  which will give me a 16 foot opening.
the bed of the TK-2000 can cut a max of 21 feet without moving the cant.
the roof over the TK will be metal.
The pole barn has a translucent center ridge light.

[DR Buck]

Going on 4 weeks now this is where the new building is.  17 straight days of rain has really delayed completion.   I'm guessing another 1.5 to 2 weeks before it's closed in and has the floor poured.   After that I take over for electric and interior wall dividing the shop from the garage.

[Magicman]

Thanks for the update Dave.  I know that you will be happy when this phase is completed and the ball is in your court. 

[Ljohnsaw]

Left & right sides   -   In these you can see the amount of ground slope. 

Looking good! 8)

Slope? Slope?  I don' see no slope.  You want to see some slope...

3'8" in a 40' run.

 

2' in a 25' run.

 

Makes the county inspector a little uncomfortable.

[gspren]

ljohnsaw, are those just dry stacked cement blocks or specialty retaining wall blocks or ?

[47sawdust]

Dr Buck,
Your builders are doing a great job.They have the frame well braced which makes for a finished product to be proud of.

[Ljohnsaw]

ljohnsaw, are those just dry stacked cement blocks or specialty retaining wall blocks or ?

They are Faswall blocks - aka ICFs.  85% recycled pallets, 15% Portland.  You set the first course in mortar, the rest dry stacked with rebar every other course horizontal (#4) and, in my case, every cell vertically (#5).  Then back fill with concrete.  My blocks are 12" x 24" x 8" and have rockwool insulation (3").

[Magicman]

Thanks for that description John.  I did some Googling and found it very interesting. 

[DR Buck]

The rain here is killing the schedule on getting the new building done.   Photos are as of this weekend.   Doors are supposed to be installed this week and the concrete guy is starting on Tuesday or Wednesday.     The bottom of the skirt will be covered with 2 x 12s screwed to the 6 x6s on the outside, then formed with plywood inside and a 6" boarder of concrete will be filled in up to the bottom of the steel walls.    This will help support the gravel so it is not pushing directly against the 2 x 12s.    The  plywood will be removed and the floor will be filled and raised with #57 stone.   Then the concrete floor gets poured.    I spent yesterday putting stub-out plumbing under the walls for a future bathroom.   I also installed stubs to get water and electric in without having to drill or break concrete later.


Front View -- Wood shop on the right, Garage on the left.








Sawmill goes under here.   I'll remove a couple 6 x 6s and install a header beam in their place. to get logs under.







2 x 12s to cover skirt.

[Czech_Made]

looking great, neighbor 

The rain here is killing the schedule on getting the new building done.   Photos are as of this weekend.   Doors are supposed to be installed this week and the concrete guy is starting on Tuesday or Wednesday.     The bottom of the skirt will be covered with 2 x 12s screwed to the 6 x6s on the outside, then formed with plywood inside and a 6" boarder of concrete will be filled in up to the bottom of the steel walls.    This will help support the gravel so it is not pushing directly against the 2 x 12s.    The  plywood will be removed and the floor will be filled and raised with #57 stone.   Then the concrete floor gets poured.    I spent yesterday putting stub-out plumbing under the walls for a future bathroom.   I also installed stubs to get water and electric in without having to drill or break concrete later.


Front View -- Wood shop on the right, Garage on the left.








Sawmill goes under here.   I'll remove a couple 6 x 6s and install a header beam in their place. to get logs under.







2 x 12s to cover skirt.

[DR Buck]

   This is killing me.  Almost $4000 in gravel alone just to backfill the floor before concrete.   

[Woodhauler]

  This is killing me.  Almost $4000 in gravel alone just to backfill the floor before concrete.   

Seems to me it would have been smarter to take the top soil off and level the building spot before you built it????

[DR Buck]

[/quote]Seems to me it would have been smarter to take the top soil off and level the building spot before you built it????
[/quote]


Couldn't do that or the building entrance would have been below grade.    Then I'd be dealing with water coming in every time it rains.   My only option was put the building in a different spot that was more level ground and that would have been a longer distance from the house, left me no room behind for a log yard and probably intruded on county setback distances.

[OneWithWood]

I had the same issues with grade when we built the first pole barn many moons ago.  I put a lot of stone in to level the spot up just like DR.  It has worked very well and stayed very dry.
When I built the barn for the sawmill I took the other approach and dug out a huge swale.  Enough for the building and a road all around it.  That too, worked well and has stayed very dry.
It all depends on terrain.

[Czech_Made]

There is not much terrain variation in Remington, just saying  ;D

[DR Buck]

There is not much terrain variation in Remington, just saying  ;D

The new building isn't in Remington.  It's in Farmville.   My Remington place is flat.... all 57 acres.    My new location is going to be Farmville as soon as the Remington place sells.  ;D

[Czech_Made]

I see, sorry, wrong assumption  ;D

Edit:

My apologies, I should have read the whole thread, seems like you have great and well defined plans, congrats on leaving Fauquier County, it is getting bit full and crazy lately.

Myself, I would go west, like Fort Valley or such, but I still have quite few years left before I can even think about it.

[snowstorm]

looks like they do things different where you are. here the sod would have been removed then gravel it level it then pour crete and build on that. to gravel and level inside a building takes longer and costs more.

[Straightgrain]

 I'm still collecting wood for my AG buildings... :



 

This my net haul from answering a "free" barn wood ad on C/L.

[DR Buck]

I have concrete !     8)        I'm also out of $$$.   ;)

~160 ton of #57 fill stone and 36 yards of concrete. 

[Magicman]

And it look good.   

[thechknhwk]

Congrats, looks nice. 8)

[Czech_Made]

Looking great!  I remembered you last Friday, because we drove through Farmville (my son played high school baseball semifinals in Lynchburg).  It sure is a nice area.

[DR Buck]

I have a building !    8) 8) 8)

Over 3 months past the scheduled date the contractor finally got my building finished and all the unacceptable flaws corrected.   Now it's my turn to start running some electric and thinking about the internal dividing wall for the woodshop area as well as insulation.    I milled 80 13 ft 2 x4's a couple weeks ago to use for the interior walls.    After we sell the farm and make the permanent move to the new place where this building is, I'll add a few windows and a door out the back to the sawmill overhang area.

As for insulation, I'm probably going to use blue foam board with the foil face on both sides.   I'm just not sure on the best way to insulate the overhead.   I want to put a ceiling at the 12' truss height over the woodshop.   I will then insulate over the shop ceiling with either fiberglass batts or loose blown in insulation.   But I'm not sure I'm going to close in the ceiling on the garage side.   If I don't, then I need to insulate up against the metal roof across the whole building and the gable ends.  Or, close off at the truss where the shop starts and insulate only the garage side.  I could also insulate the entire underside of the roof and nix the separate insulation over the shop ceiling.     Speaking of ceilings,  I'm looking for ideas on ceiling materials.   I considered drywall, but I'm not enjoying the thought of all the weight screwed to the bottoms of the 40 ft truss span.   Maybe something like 4 x 8 sheets of beadboard?    Any suggestions?

[Magicman]

29 gauge roofing is an idea.  Per sq ft, it is probably as light or lighter than any wood material, plus the corrugation adds much strength.

Your building looks very nice.   

[Tom the Sawyer]

Dr_Buck, I have a similar styled building with the overhang on the south side.  It was built before I bought my mill.  The overhang was a perfect place for the mill; out of the north wind and under cover but, I had to have some modifications done.  I had concrete in the barn but not under the overhang (originally intended for stalls) so I had to have the gable end metal removed and a concrete slab poured. 

The biggest issue was removing a post.  Mine were set on 12' centers and one had to go in order to load logs the length my mill could handle.  It also makes it easier to off-bear boards when sawing.  They had to install a triple header for the 24' span, and shorten and rehang the rafters, but it went well, and since the concrete was poured afterwards, it looked like it was designed that way.

[thecfarm]

That looks good!!!

[OneWithWood]

DR, I used the same metal used for the roof as a ceiling in my pole barn.  It has held up very well for many years and was not difficult to put up by myself using screws and a screw gun.

[rjwoelk]

Dr Buck.
How was the roof done, did they just strap and put steel on?
Now I live were it is a lot colder winters, we have problems with one of our machine sheds, we straped it put the steel on insulated with bats, vapour barier, osb on the inside, nice and warm in winter cool in summer. But we get condensation in the insulation to the point it runs down to the sill. I was told by a insulator to spray foam the ceiling if it is done that way to prevent the condensation, not a problem if you plywood the roof install a good moisture berier then strap and steel. Which is what I have done on the cabin.