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My metal detector found some metal. Now what?

Started by timbercrack, January 06, 2019, 11:01:34 AM

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timbercrack

Good morning all. Been viewing as a guest for over a year now and finally signed up. First post!

Me and my buddy went in on a 2009 Timberking 1600 last summer. Previous owner handed us his metal detector too and we have just now found two places in an ash log that indicate metal. Whats the best approach to avoiding/removing said metal before we wreck a blade?

This forum has been a wealth of info and it is appreciated beyond words. Thanks you guys...
Timberking 1600 owner.

Jim_Rogers

When I find a spot where I hear that beep I sweep it left and right and try to figure where the best "line" is. And then I turn 90° and sweep left and right again and develop another line. Where the two lines cross is most likely the spot.
I then take and axe can chop either side of the line and look for the grain too swirl around the metal if it is in deep. And I look for the wood color to change, as well.
Once the metal is exposed by axe or chisel I pull it out with nail pulling tools.
If it is a bolt, I clip on a pair of vice grips and turn it out.
after it is removed, whatever it is, I re-scan the log to make sure that there isn't another piece in there.
Good luck,

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

John Bartley

Sorta the same here as Jim.  I locate with a "X", then drill a hole on two sides, then use a screwdriver to pop out the metal .... or ... start excavating if it's bigger than a nail or screw.   If I can just "see" it, I'll try pulling it with a drive-in style nail puller.
Kioti DK35HSE w/loader & forks
Champion 25hp band mill, 20' bed
Stihl MS361
Stihl 026

logman 219


bandmiller2

Old wood chisels you can hammer on are handy. I find them cheap at flea markets and yard sales. Sharpen them up and keep a couple handy. Sometimes if something is large or deep I just shorten the log, too many hits and the log is rolled off into the pucker brush. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

timbercrack

Jim and John, we nibbled the metal out best we could between a mix of your methods. We sawed on bravely. Saved the blade. A short nail dug out with the chisels and a bunch of nuthin at the other spot. The metal detector at least gives you a moment of pause before sinking the blade into a log. Thanks...
Timberking 1600 owner.

Brad_bb

Use a cordless drill with an 1/8" when needed to drill around a nail to loosen it up.  I use the black 1/8" Ace Hardware brand bits for this.  They've proven least likely to break off of the brands I've tried.  I keep at least half a dozen bits on my tool cart as doing this you will dull the bit over time doing this.  

I also sometimes  use a holesaw on the cordless drill with no pilot bit.  It takes some practice to learn how to start the hole without a pilot bit.  Usually start it on one side then slowly rotate it over.  Once you have a hole started around a nail, it's easy to keep hole sawing.  Once deep enough use a pry bar/nail puller to break the plug off and expose the nail.

You do need some old chisels (sharpened) to ramp either side of some nails to be able to get the old fashioned nail puller on it.  You also have to sharpen the old fashioned nail puller so it will grab the nail.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Chuck White

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

kelLOGg


If you can see the nail and don't want to gouge the wood then I did this:

Removing nails in Sawmills and Milling
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

slider

I use all of the above tools. What works best for me is chisel or drill first then vice grips with a crowbar .On the large nails it work best for me.
al glenn

Magicman

 


These are my "go to" extractors.  The red handled pliers with the built-in anvil is an awesome puller (from Home Depot). 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Sawmill Man

After a nail or screw, bolt or whatever is hit I will take a chainsaw and saw a tic tac toe pattern with the metal in the middle. Leave the middle of the pattern large enough for clawhammer claws , take the claws and pop out the center then you can get to the nail to pull it or clamp visegrips on and unscrew it. I have found this method faster and neater for me than other methods. 
"I could have sworn I went over that one with the metal detector".

CCCLLC

Same procedure here as well Sawmill Man. I then tell the customer that the next board coming off would be ideal for a wall outlet.

terrifictimbersllc

I work hourly so it usually works well to put the customer to extracting the metal while I change the blade. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Darrel

I had a customer tell me to saw it anyway he'd gladly pay the $25 charge for metal strikes. He wanted the nail and all the associated patina in his wall. 
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

terrifictimbersllc

Exactly right, sometimes the wood is worth more than the cost of blades.  And blade cost is minor when there are 2 or 3 customer employees plus the sawyer getting paid.  Just put on a new blade and keep sawing when this is the case and has been established with the customer. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Blaszer

I like to use an air chisel to dig into the log and pry it out

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

CCCLLC


Blaszer

nobody has a gas powered air compressor they can throw in the back of their truck? If I do travel, my truck toolbox is full, nurse tank on truck is full, also compressor and a saw or two

Magicman

I'll take an order of fries with mine and maybe even a side of Grits.  :D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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